Lee molds

[Slugster]

Having completely sworn off of buying Lee Moulds, I of course had to purchase the following: 6.5 140, 8mm maximum, and 459 405 HB. The molds all drop the bullets easily, or at most need a tap or two on the hinge pin. Washed the molds in hot water and dawn dish detergent three times each. Sprayed down with brake clean twice. Still throw wrinkled boolits as expected. I have been setting the mold blocks on the top of my lead pot to allow them to heat and cool in hopes of that would help to condition them. The jury is still out on whether this helps or not. It has been my observation that the molds have to be used (heat cycled) until they will cast good boolits. I dislike smoking a mold and will only do so in extreme cases. Wish me luck, please.

[Bazoo]

I hope you get good results! I've never have any issue with getting Lee moulds not to wrinkle, but I run them hot. I usually let the mould set with a corner in the alloy for 5 minutes, until it's so hot that it frosts and would smear badly if I cut the sprue. Then I let it cool and start casting.

Not withstanding some of Lee's mould's issues, I do like most of their bullet designs and use several regularly.

[quilbilly]

I have many Lee molds and some of them are the best I have in certain calibers. Having been casting fishing jigs commercially for over 40 years and boolits from aluminum, iron, and brass molds for over 30 years, I have always smoked (lightly) every mold occasionally and it helps. Most of the molds don't need smoking more than about once a year to ease fill out.

[mehavey]

'Never had that that (wrinkle kind of) issue w/ Lee molds (the few I use)
But I do pre-heat while the lead is melting.
See:
https://thefiringline.com/forums/showpost.php?p=6814751&postcount=16
https://i.postimg.cc/bw7J0YPq/350-Legend-SAECO-LEE-sm.jpg

[deces]

I would get them hotter before dropping and not let them cool as much in between drops. You might need more tin in your alloy too.

[PositiveCaster]

I’ve cast with Lee molds for about 50 years. IME a wrinkled bullet means either the mold is not hot enough, or the alloy is too cold…or both. I rest the mold on top of the melt until it is hot then try a cast. Wrinkled? I crank up the pot a bit and leave the mold on the pot. I smoke the molds out of habit, not need.


.

[Gtrubicon]

I much prefer my 6 cavity Lee molds more than my 2 cavity Lee molds. Mine like to be run hot. I use an electric hot plate to bring all my molds to temp prior to casting, aluminum, brass and steel. I cast with a fast cadence and don’t have wrinkles. Adding tin has helped when I do.

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

+1 on using a electric hotplate as a mold oven to preheat any brand of boolit mold.

[deces]

Lee's aluminum molds are for production, you can't be lazy. You gotta have a rhythm to keep up or they will cool on you.

[ACC]

Having completely sworn off of buying Lee Moulds, I of course had to purchase the following: 6.5 140, 8mm maximum, and 459 405 HB. The molds all drop the bullets easily, or at most need a tap or two on the hinge pin. Washed the molds in hot water and dawn dish detergent three times each. Sprayed down with brake clean twice. Still throw wrinkled boolits as expected. I have been setting the mold blocks on the top of my lead pot to allow them to heat and cool in hopes of that would help to condition them. The jury is still out on whether this helps or not. It has been my observation that the molds have to be used (heat cycled) until they will cast good boolits. I dislike smoking a mold and will only do so in extreme cases. Wish me luck, please.

I run mine hot and have done so since I bought my first Lee mold in 1974. Try dipping the corner of the mold into your alloy for 10 seconds. That's what I do and it ain't hurt a Lee mold yet.

ACC

[Frank V]

I use the lee molds hotter than steel, but I like Lee molds.

[Bloodman14]

Definitely get a hot plate! My setup is next to a repurposed electric stove; I use the small front burner to preheat my molds. Works perfectly!

[Mk42gunner]

I've never (yet) had a problem with wrinkled boolits from a Lee mold. I preheat the molds by dipping sitting them on the edge of my casting pot, then judicious dipping into the molten lead.

In my experience, Lee molds (any of them--single cavity to six, including the new style two cavity) like to be ran hot and fast. If you feel the need to examine your freshly cast boolits, you better be glancing while the sprue solidifies. In other words, don't let the hot mold sit empty, or even worse open.

I have had a few that took a couple of casting sessions to start working right.

Robert

[wmitty]

I have the old style mould in 8 mm Maximum design and it works well with wheel weight alloy; but as others have mentioned here, the casting rate must be rapid and the alloy hot in order to produce acceptable boolits.


If you continue casting at a rapid rate my experience has been the heat the mould absorbs continues to rise to where non- wrinkled boolits are being produced. You may have already tried this and not found this to occur, but it might be a step you could try.

[Larry Gibson]

Slugster

Try playing the flame from a propane torch over the surface of the mould, in the cavities too. You will see what appears to be "moisture" of some sort come to the surface and then evaporate. When it evaporates move the flame on until the entire mould is done including the top and bottom of the sprue plate. No the blocks will not get "too hot", they won't melt, nor will they warp. Let the blocks cool a bit and swab the cavities out with a clean Q-tip. Apply mould prep to the hinge pin, the alignment pins, top/bottom of sprue plate and the top of the mould blocks keeping the prep out of the cavities.

You will find doing the above the moulds will cast perfect bullets within in one or two castings.

[mehavey]

".... apply mould prep ...."

What is the difference between commercial (Rapine?) "Mould Prep" and old-fashioned Lock Ease?



* Classic Rapine product apparently no longer available
(also "?" :shock:)

[beemer]

When I get a new mold I stand it in a pot of water covering the blocks, add a few drops of dish washing liquid and boil it for a couple minutes. Any oil will be gone long gone.

[More_Slugs]

+1 on the hot plate hack
If I have to sit the mold down, it's on the hot plate so it's as if I never stopped casting.

[Four-Sixty]

Doesn't brake cleaner contain petroleum distillates? Using brake cleaner is like oiling your mold in my opinion. The brake cleaner could contribute to the wrinkling problem.

[mehavey]

Proper Brake Cleaner (https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/crc-brakleen-brake-parts-cleaner-chlorinated-degreases-instantly-19-oz.-05089/7060459-p?product_channel=local&store=8806&adtype=pla_with_promotion&product_channel=local&store_code=8806&&&&&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAiA-bmsBhAGEiwAoaQNmuA-uHQ5VprM7SuFY1d1IoF8-IziLi08_RXX5RBOR__Szx6gei8YjxoCekIQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds) leaves no residue whatsoever.
:drinks:

[Bazoo]

Slugster

Try playing the flame from a propane torch over the surface of the mould, in the cavities too. You will see what appears to be "moisture" of some sort come to the surface and then evaporate. When it evaporates move the flame on until the entire mould is done including the top and bottom of the sprue plate. No the blocks will not get "too hot", they won't melt, nor will they warp. Let the blocks cool a bit and swab the cavities out with a clean Q-tip. Apply mould prep to the hinge pin, the alignment pins, top/bottom of sprue plate and the top of the mould blocks keeping the prep out of the cavities.

You will find doing the above the moulds will cast perfect bullets within in one or two castings.

Thank you for sharing this tip. Did you figure this out yourself or is it an old time trick? Is this technique called something?

What do you reckon the liquid is? Oil?

[Seeker]

I have never had a problem wit Lee molds either. After reading through all these replies,....the verdict ...imho is.....user error. Just saying.

[Larry Gibson]

Thank you for sharing this tip. Did you figure this out yourself or is it an old time trick? Is this technique called something?

What do you reckon the liquid is? Oil?

It's an old time trick I learned many years ago. Works equally well on iron and brass moulds. I'd always assumed it was oil from the machining of the mould blocks or from oiling them after use. All I know for sure is the method works.

[mehavey]

If it's residual oil (as reasonably suspected), why doesn't the flame carburize it onto the mold surface ?

[BadDaditood]

Like a tall glass of sweet iced tea on a hot day it’s condescension :redneck:

[hawkeye1]

I have always used brake cleaner before I start casting. And the hot plate has been the best accessory I have. Keeps molds hot, ingots warm and dry, and wheel weights condensation free. Starting with everything hot, I get great bullets from the start, whether Lee, RCBS, Lyman or Saeco.

[BadDaditood]

Actually I learned from Mark Novak while prepping shotgun barrels for soldering that a propane torch on cool metal will condense water vapor until the metal is over 212 degrees or so… then you clean it again so the solder sticks.
As for molds, like many others I made a little oven out of a deep 4gang electrical box and put it on a hot plate. I cast between 700 and 800 depending if pure lead or alloy. No wrinkles but I work fast until they come out frosty, then it’s time for a mini break- I set the mold on top of the little oven that has 2 more molds heating up.

[Bazoo]

It's an old time trick I learned many years ago. Works equally well on iron and brass moulds. I'd always assumed it was oil from the machining of the mould blocks or from oiling them after use. All I know for sure is the method works.

Thanks.

[Texas by God]

I just used a brand new Lee mould yesterday.
I sprayed it with B12 carb cleaner, let it air dry then smoked the cavities with kitchen matches.
I run the pot hot and the bullets look fine.
I only have Lee moulds and I feel no shame.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[ukrifleman]

+1 on using a electric hotplate as a mold oven to preheat any brand of boolit mold.

Wrinkled bullets in aluminium moulds are nearly always due to the steel sprue plate being cooler than the mould itself, this cools the alloy as it is poured into the mould.
As John B states, the answer is to pre-heat the mould on a hot plate.

[Slugster]

I really appreciate all of the replies. Have a hot plate and will use it next time I cast. The problem with wrinkled bullets is that they resist all of the attempts to cast good bullets. Have dipped mold in lead pot, placed mold on edge of pot to help keep the temperature up, tried different temps from 680 to 800 degrees, used the correct brake cleaner (never use carb cleaner as it has a small amount of lubricant in it), cast as fast as possible = frosted wrinkles.

[Shiloh]

What size do the boolits drop at!!

Shiloh

[243winxb]

Alloy/pot at maxinum temperature to start. Frosted bullets drop the temperature, cool mold a little.
https://www.thehighroad.org/index.php?media/casting-with-lee-molds.4127/full

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

I really appreciate all of the replies. Have a hot plate and will use it next time I cast. The problem with wrinkled bullets is that they resist all of the attempts to cast good bullets. Have dipped mold in lead pot, placed mold on edge of pot to help keep the temperature up, tried different temps from 680 to 800 degrees, used the correct brake cleaner (never use carb cleaner as it has a small amount of lubricant in it), cast as fast as possible = frosted wrinkles.
If you are able to get frosted wrinkles, there is something in your procedure that is corrupting your mold cavity surfaces. First thing I'd do is quit using brake cleaner. I use Dawn dish soap, hot tap water, and a tooth brush. I store all my iron molds coated with kroil, so I clean them before every session with dish soap. Works every time...hundreds of times.
Are you using a sprue plate lube? If so, what is your procedure? maybe you are getting sprue plate lube in the cavities...God forbid if you are using Lee's recommended Beeswax for lubing sprue plate, that'll dirty/dingy up a mold in one session.

[Mk42gunner]

You might need to add a bit of tin to your alloy since it sounds like nothing else is working.

You will be surprised at how much difference a piece of 1/8" solder 18-24" long will make in castability of a pot of lead.

Robert

[deces]

What size do the boolits drop at!!

Shiloh

This is probably the best question to troubleshoot here now. OP should answer this one.

[jdgabbard]

If your molds are just not up to temp, and you don't want to bother with a hotplate, you can just rest your mold on top of the pot while it's heating up. Doing this most of my molds start throwing keepers after one or two pours.

If you're up to temp but you're getting wrinkles still, you've got an issue with lube or something in your mold. Cleaning with acetone may help. Generally when I get a new mold I'll clean it with dawn and a tooth brush under hot water. I'll then hose it down with contact cleaner, and scrub the bores really well. Then I'll hit it with an acetone cleaning. After this you can do whatever setup your mold requires - such as a patina for brass molds. You have to remember, metals are porous to a degree, and anywhere cutting fluid can hide it will hide.

[Slugster]

I really appreciate the replies folks!

I tried to cast boolits again this morning with the Lee 8mm maximum mold. Took suggestions from some that replied, boiled mold blocks in water and Palmolive Industrial dish soap, brushed with toothbrush and more soap, sprayed with electrical contact cleaner, set PID on lead pot to 800 degrees.
After about 10 casts the mold started throwing good boolits! Diameter is .329 and mold fillout is great. Variation in weight is less than 1.5 grains. Happy Happy.
Decided that things were going so well that I would empty the pot with this mold. Did so and made some really nice boolits.

I noticed that a few replies implied that I looked down on Lee moulds or considered them inferior. Nope. I started with a Lee .44 cal 215 SWC mold back in 80 or 81, still have it and it still casts good boolits after at least 10,000 cast. Have several other Lee molds and they are all good'ens and there are no complaints. The only Lee mold that I have had that was less than spectacular was IIRC a .30 cal. 170 gr. RN. that the boolits just would not fall from. I ended up having to cpmpletely disassemble the mold and carefully stoning the faces to remove burrs. After that the mold worked fine. Have also had to work on steel molds to get the to cast.

I bought three Lee molds around the same time and the problems that I had with them I had thought that maybe Lee had started using a different lubricant during their machine work on the mold blocks. Blinded me to the real problem.

As one person replied "user error", guilty as charged.

The tips that were provided were a great assist. Propane torch to the mold blocks and very high lead temp did the trick.

Thanks to everyone who helped me solve this dilemma.

Gonna work on the other molds tomorrow and see how they cast with the new approach. Confidence is high.

[WRideout]

If it's residual oil (as reasonably suspected), why doesn't the flame carburize it onto the mold surface ?

My cousin Herb spent his working career after the War at the Bethlehem Steel Plant in South San Francisco (long gone I suspect.) He once told me that every piece of metal has moisture absorbed into the pores, and he had to be extra careful about scrap that was dumped into the furnace because it could cause a steam explosion.

BTW: Brake cleaner that I have used is pure hexane a very light highly volatile short-chain hydrocarbon. I use it for starting fluid in my recalcitrant lawn mower.

Wayne

[John Guedry]

I got a hot plate from a friend, and since I started using it get started casting quicker and have fewer rejects.

[fredj338]

I have found most molds need a break in or seasoning period, regardless of manuf. I think the venting on the newerLee molds is better & i get them up & running quicker. Hot plate is where its at for mold warm up for fewest rejects.

[Bazoo]

I really appreciate the replies folks!

I tried to cast boolits again this morning with the Lee 8mm maximum mold. Took suggestions from some that replied, boiled mold blocks in water and Palmolive Industrial dish soap, brushed with toothbrush and more soap, sprayed with electrical contact cleaner, set PID on lead pot to 800 degrees.
After about 10 casts the mold started throwing good boolits! Diameter is .329 and mold fillout is great. Variation in weight is less than 1.5 grains. Happy Happy.
Decided that things were going so well that I would empty the pot with this mold. Did so and made some really nice boolits.

I noticed that a few replies implied that I looked down on Lee moulds or considered them inferior. Nope. I started with a Lee .44 cal 215 SWC mold back in 80 or 81, still have it and it still casts good boolits after at least 10,000 cast. Have several other Lee molds and they are all good'ens and there are no complaints. The only Lee mold that I have had that was less than spectacular was IIRC a .30 cal. 170 gr. RN. that the boolits just would not fall from. I ended up having to cpmpletely disassemble the mold and carefully stoning the faces to remove burrs. After that the mold worked fine. Have also had to work on steel molds to get the to cast.

I bought three Lee molds around the same time and the problems that I had with them I had thought that maybe Lee had started using a different lubricant during their machine work on the mold blocks. Blinded me to the real problem.

As one person replied "user error", guilty as charged.

The tips that were provided were a great assist. Propane torch to the mold blocks and very high lead temp did the trick.

Thanks to everyone who helped me solve this dilemma.

Gonna work on the other molds tomorrow and see how they cast with the new approach. Confidence is high.

Awesome, glad that you were able to get it sorted out.

I often find a new technique or tip to improve my casting. I'm always seeking to make the best bullets possible.

What's hard is sometimes you discover something better and then you have a whole coffee can full of the old stuff to either use or remelt.