New BP shooter?

[fido]

What RCBS dies would be the best pick for a Uberti LR,I have one on the way.
What is the difference with the cowboy compared to the c die set? Is one better than the other for my application?

Thanks in advance for any help.

Stephen

I better add I will be shooting black for the first time. Hopefully will find a mold so I can cast my own.
Will be using water soluble cutting oil I think its called moose milk.

Is there any special break in procedures?

[e15cap]

The cowboy set includes a die for flaring the case mouth so you dont damage your soft lead bullets during seating. Paul Jones and Steve Brooks make the best custom molds and some of the lymans can be very good. Best, Roger

[August]

The advertised virtue of the Cowboy dies is that they have an expander plug that is suited for preparing brass to accept lead bullets. My experience suggests that they are also dimensionally spec'ed for old time cartridges. They seem to be the most trouble free dies for making obsolete cartridges work in period gunz. I like 'em (though I am not completely happy with some of the other RCBS dies). I also like Hornady dies, but I don't know what caliber you're going to be working with, so I can't directly recommend them over the Cowboy dies from RCBS.

For loading black, you will also require a compression die. These are available from Buffalo Arms and will make your loading much more successful more quickly. While you're putting your order in, also get some fiber wad material for using over powder. Buffalo Arms and Sagebrush Supply both have excellent cast bullets available for early experiments. This will allow you to find a good bullet without the expense of purchasing molds.

What exactly are you using the mineral oil for?

Barrels are best broken in with jacketed bullets, so you may want to run a couple of dozen rounds of that through the gun first (one at a time, keeping barrel cool and clean as you go). Your first few sessions with black powder will result in difficulty cleaning the gun. After a few dozen rounds and two or three cleaning sessions, the barrel will develop a "seasoning" and will be easy to clean and maintain after that. You can make this go smoother by firing a round at a time and cleaning the barrel after each round. Do this for a dozen or so rounds with black powder. Of course, DO NOT LET THE BARREL GET HOT during the break in process. Then go to two rounds and clean. Then five.

If you are patient, you will soon have a rifle, and loads, that can hold 1 MOA as far as you can see.

[fido]

Thanks for all the info. guys.

I thought I read on the forum that people are using water and cutting oil to clean with.
Stephen

[August]

True. Most use Ballistol (water soluble mineral oil) and water to clean black powder gunz. That's what I use and it works great! I mix 50/50, but most people mix 1/10 ballistol to water.

[missionary5155]

Good morning
You can also smooth out a new barrrel with cast boolit and lapping compound.
Companies sell kits or you can make your own. All sorts of places sell lapping compound. Comes in What you can call ROUGH to Superfine grit.
Roll your boolits in the grit instead of lube and shoot-em. I generally shoot 5 (Rough grit)then clean and look/feel the results. If it looks/feeels rough (tight patch) shoot 5 more until it looks/feels smooth. Then % rounds of the next smoother grit.. clean. Until I have shot all my grits. I end up with a smooth /slick /even barrel.
Mike God Bless you.

[fido]

Thanks again guys. I haven't got the gun yet I am hoping the barrel on the Uberti will be smooth and not need any lapping.
Anyone else have the same gun?
Stephen

[BPCR Bill]

What RCBS dies would be the best pick for a Uberti LR,I have one on the way.
What is the difference with the cowboy compared to the c die set? Is one better than the other for my application?

Thanks in advance for any help.

Stephen

I better add I will be shooting black for the first time. Hopefully will find a mold so I can cast my own.
Will be using water soluble cutting oil I think its called moose milk.

Is there any special break in procedures?

Stephen, by "LR" I assume you are getting a Lever Rifle? Long Range? What caliber? Straight case? Bottleneck?

Regards,
Bill

[fido]

Oops sorry guys 45-70 long range.

[Don McDowell]

I like the Lyman die sets with the M die. One of the great benefits of the M die is with a bit of careful adjusting it works just fine as a powder compression die, should you decide compression to be an absolute necessity.

[montana_charlie]

Oops sorry guys 45-70 long range.
You still haven't said what kind of rifle you have coming.

It has 'Uberti' stamped on it, and it's a 45/70 intended for 'long range'.

Is it a lever action, a Hiwall, or a Sharps?

If it's a Sharps-pattern replica, the rifle is made by Pedersoli.
Their barrels are match-grade tubes that don't require 'break-in'.

The 'moose milk' mixture is for wiping out the barrel between shots...to manage the black powder fouling. Not everyone uses that method.
You can make it up using Ballistol, or soluable cutting oil.

For 'cleaning' the barrel, water is a better choice than moose milk...and you don't want to leave anything containing water in the bore (like moose milk) when you are finished.

CM

[fido]

Uberti 1874 sharps long range, should be hear sometime in March.
I have a WTB post up for brass dies and molds, no reply yet.
Thanks for all the help guys I really appreciate it.
Stephen

[SharpsShooter]

If you will be shooting black for the first time. Read everything you can find and then read it again. It is not like loading for smokeless in many respects. I have a Introduction to Black Powder Cartridge Reloading written by Chuck Raithel that is in PDF format that I'd be glad to email you. It is a good primer of sorts. Shoot me a PM with your email addy and I'll send it to ya.

SS

[Boz330]

+1 on the Chuck Raithel primer for a beginner. It doesn't give all the secrets but really helps getting you headed in the right direction.

Bob

[fido]

Thanks sharpsshooter PM comming your way.
Stephen

[SharpsShooter]

You've got Mail!

SS

[montana_charlie]

That Chuck Raithel primer is available online, here...
http://www.ssbpcrc.co.uk/Resources/Introduction%20to%20BPCR%20Loading.pdf

CM

[RMulhern]

Here's a surefire time proven method to break in a BPCR barrel:

SHOOT THE LIVIN SNOT OUT OF IT!!:redneck:

[R. Dupraz]

fido:

I have been shooting these BPCR's for quite a few years now and the best advice I can give is.......

1. Get a BPCR loading manual--- There is another by Steve Garvey & Mike Venturino-- Loading the BPCR.

2. Don't go shooting any copper jacketed bullets through it if you intend to shoot cast lead and Black. You will have to clean every bit of copper wash out of the bore if you don't want leading from the cast.

3. Go the the Shiloh Sharps forum. Every conceivable question that you might have has been fully covered more than once over there. Just do a search for your topic.

Regards
RD

[fido]

Thanks Guys. Yes I am planning cast only. I would like to have things ready for when it gets hear but will have to slug the barrel to find out what I need for a sizing die.
Stephen

[boommer]

.459 soft cast 1/30 mix you cant go wrong for a start. Swiss 1.5 for powder, 215 Fed MAG primer. Bullet mold any .459 500+gr SPG or none petro lube use a 0.30 or 0.60 veg card.
Buy a taper crimp die. next for cleaning soap and hot water and dry your barrel then kroil the barrel let it sit a day then tight patch it then kroil to next shoot tight patch it and the remaining flecks of lead will come out if there is any.I don't size cases ,have dedicated cases, just de-cap so if your chamber is large enough you can slip fit and taper crimp. New cases will be sized for
.457 bullets with neck tenision so you will need a .459+at least expander plug.RCBS has a first and second stage plug.Aneal your cases or you will have blow-by.
The thing you need is the basics you don't need is moose milk or any other Voo- Doo crap

[fido]

Thanks for the quick how to boommer.

Only reason I mentioned moose is I have soluble cutting oil on hand.
Stephen