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Indiana shooter
12-06-2023, 09:25 PM
From what I've seen on this particular sub forum this is geared more towards the traditional muzzleloader. However, I'm sure many use modern muzzleloader technology and may be equipped to answer my questions.

I have been using a RD 265gr boolit cast from 20 to 1 plus 1.5% antimony sized .430 seated in a Harvester. 44/50 sabot in a ThompsonCenter Omega with 80gr weighed charge of Blackhorn 209. I heat treat the boolit, then anneal the nose of the boolits I plan to use on game. I had major accuracy issues with softer boolits out of my sabots.

Thus far, my accuracy has been acceptable for my purposes, 2.5-3" at 100, yards but I will have several group tight together in a 1-1.5" group. My terminal performance is spotty, sometimes outstanding, while other times I get zero expansion with long blood trails. Mainly based on velocity of impact.

The other day I noticed, after years of using this combination, that the boolits with sharp, well filled out edges on the base wasn't seating all the way down to the base of the sabot. I went through my supply to find 5 boolits with a not so filled base, they fit perfectly down in the sabot.

I went to the range and shot these 5 boolits and got a nice 5 shot group measuring about 1.25". When I shot some of the well filled boolits my group opend up to the usual 3" group. So, I'm guessing my accuracy issue may not be the boolit being too soft, but not seating correctly in the sabot and being damaged during the shot sequence.

I would like to soften my alloy up a bit so I can get better expansion on the longer shots, but so far haven't been able to keep acceptable accuracy when doing so.

My questions are: would you think my theory about damaging the bullet due to being improperly seated in the sabot could be correct? Is there a tool that I could use to accurately creat a slight bevel on the base of the boolit to obtain a proper fit in the sabot? And, have y'all found a sabot that better fits a true flat based boolit.

charlie b
12-06-2023, 10:40 PM
Yes. The bullet not seating correctly is an issue.

Why not just get a bullet mold with a beveled base? Or buy one of these
https://noebulletmolds.com/site/shop/gun-parts/tools/bullet-base-chamfer-tool-manual/

Indiana shooter
12-07-2023, 12:12 AM
Yes. The bullet not seating correctly is an issue.

Why not just get a bullet mold with a beveled base? Or buy one of these
https://noebulletmolds.com/site/shop/gun-parts/tools/bullet-base-chamfer-tool-manual/

I use my Muzzleloader strictly as a hunting tool. I'll confirm zero with maybe 5 rounds before season, then only shoot it once or twice more at deer. Clean it and put her up for the season. It's hard to justify buying a new mold to use for less than 10 boolits a year. I absolutely love the mold I have for my .44 mag. It's a NOE RG mold, so I can produce boolit weights from 245gr HP to 265gr RNFP. I even had my son machine make a HP pin that is only 1/8 round to slow the expansion of some of my heavier loads for the handgun and rifle velocity. I haven't tried them yet out of the muzzleloader, hope to soon.

That tool looks like the solution to my problem. I was looking for something designed like that but all I kept coming up with were different case deburing tools with the pin in the middle. I tried my old Lee case chamfer/deburing tool, but it was too deep. I couldn't get enough grip on the boolit.

Thanks for the link, I'll order one tomorrow!!

charlie b
12-07-2023, 07:20 PM
Understand. That's basically the reason why I buy most of my ML bullets. I don't shoot it enough to justify setting up a separate pot to cast for it.

BK7saum
12-07-2023, 07:23 PM
I have a 44 mag mold with gas check shank. Accuracy is acceptable/very good. I don't use checks on the boolits. You can tell that the base seats firmly at the bottom of the sabot.