Chrome and Nickle plating Removel ?

[hylander]

Sorry if I already asked this.
I have a 1911 that at some place in time someone plated it.
I want to remove it.
Is there a safe homemade way to do it.
If not is there a smith that can do it reasonably?

[Winger Ed.]

The plating process works going both ways.
The chemicals involved are probably kind of nasty, and not worth the time, expense, and trouble for a one off project.
You can probably consult Professor Youtube, or Doctor Google and see how it's done.

For myself, I check around and send it out to someone who is set up for it,
has done a few hundred more of them than I have, and just give them their money for what they do.

[ulav8r]

When a firearm is plated the plating adds thickness and the action will tend to bind. Therefore the plater will usually remove metal before plating. If the plating is removed the fit is then loose. There is a risk that the action can not be tightened up to restore accuracy and function.

[hylander]

When a firearm is plated the plating adds thickness and the action will tend to bind. Therefore the plater will usually remove metal before plating. If the plating is removed the fit is then loose. There is a risk that the action can not be tightened up to restore accuracy and function.

This looks very thin and pretty worn at contact areas.

[Winger Ed.]

I'd have some old gunsmith look at it and listen to their recommendation.

I wouldn't do it, but a slide can be squeezed a little and the rails peened to tighten it up,
but it's not really a kitchen table project.

[LAGS]

I wonder if the parts will fit great if you strip off the finish.
Then re finish the metal in Ceracoat or Duracoat.
Those finishes thicken up the surfaces a little bit.

[Bent Ramrod]

Thin (or the remains of) nickel plating can be removed by a solution of sodium persulfate and dilute sulfuric acid. Sulfuric acid in hydrogen peroxide solution might work also. You leave the parts to soak until no more green color shows in the solution. This might take a while, and some of the underlying metal might dissolve as well. Faster would be a reversal of the electroplating setup.

Chromium only comes off with the reverse electroplating setup. I’ve never heard of any solution that will dissolve it that won’t dissolve the underlying metal first.

As mentioned, parts are sometimes polished down before chrome plating, which is usually on there pretty thick. Nickel, IME, not so much; if it goes, the dimensions don’t change much. Some of the guns I’ve seen plated in bumper shops have the chrome coming off in heavy flakes; maybe 0.005” thick or more. You will then get 0.010” or more slop in the fit when the plating is stripped away.

[Rapier]

If nickel, especially the old plating method on guns, it is two coats, first is a copper plate and then a nickel plate. You must strip both coats off. Most of stripping jobs I have seen, revealed pitted steel under the copper, from old rust. So on an old 1911, count on a parkarizing job after a course granular sand blast.
Suggest if the surface is worn, you might have it re-plated with hard chrome done in a satin finish, so it looks more like stainless steel.
Illustration only, this is my old Rem 700 CM action done in satin hard chrome, by Accurate Plating from Alabama.

[W.R.Buchanan]

This is NOT a Do it yourself project. You need to take it to a plating shop and have them remove it.

Randy

[hylander]

This is NOT a Do it yourself project. You need to take it to a plating shop and have them remove it.
Randy

Trying to find a shop that can do it .
Called a couple and was told chrome not to bad, but if nickle it would etch the steel and may damage the serial numbers and writing.
A couple wanted to sand blast it.

[LAGS]

I do agree.
But Most Plating Shops will not do guns.

[super6]

This is NOT a Do it yourself project. You need to take it to a plating shop and have them remove it.

Randy

Buy the time you buy the anode and cathode and the chemicals and the vessel to do such a thing, Not withstanding the deadly fumes, It can be done! Now you need to black it, That will require a whole different set up and more chems... Never mind the DC power supply!

[hylander]

Thinking of using these guys.
Any input on this company?

https://apwcogan.com/refinishing/

[Joe K]

Looks like a reputable place. Also, Turnbull may be able to answer questions.

https://www.turnbullrestoration.com/

[hylander]

Looks like a reputable place. Also, Turnbull may be able to answer questions.

https://www.turnbullrestoration.com/

Talked to Turnbull yesterday.
He will only do complete restoration.
Would love to, but finances won't allow it.

[Rockindaddy]

Chrome plating removal must be reverse electrolysis. You will need a plastic or fiberglass tank, a car battery and charger. Add 5 oz of battery acid per gallon of distilled water. Suspend your chrome part in the solution. Connect the positive(anode) of the battery to the chrome part suspended in the solution. Connect the negative (cathode) to a piece of copper pipe suspended in the solution. The chrome will come off the part. Constantly pull the chrome part and inspect it. Do not leave it unattended. Rinse the part with fresh water. I have done several guns that were chrome plated. If the gun is nickel plated just purchase Nickel Strip from Brownells and suspend the parts in the solution. The nickel will dissolve into the solution. No battery needed. Sometime if the nickel was a Watts bath plating process the part will have copper under the nickel. Did an original WWII MP-38 that a GI had chromed. Had an NFA license then. The gun was beautiful but the chrome plating greatly reduced the value of the gun. Had to hand polish all the parts after all the chrome was removed and do an arsenal reblue. Gun came out looking the way it came out of the Waffen Werke.

[hylander]

Chrome plating removal must be reverse electrolysis. You will need a plastic or fiberglass tank, a car battery and charger. Add 5 oz of battery acid per gallon of distilled water. Suspend your chrome part in the solution. Connect the positive(anode) of the battery to the chrome part suspended in the solution. Connect the negative (cathode) to a piece of copper pipe suspended in the solution. The chrome will come off the part. Constantly pull the chrome part and inspect it. Do not leave it unattended. Rinse the part with fresh water. I have done several guns that were chrome plated. If the gun is nickel plated just purchase Nickel Strip from Brownells and suspend the parts in the solution. The nickel will dissolve into the solution. No battery needed. Sometime if the nickel was a Watts bath plating process the part will have copper under the nickel. Did an original WWII MP-38 that a GI had chromed. Had an NFA license then. The gun was beautiful but the chrome plating greatly reduced the value of the gun. Had to hand polish all the parts after all the chrome was removed and do an arsenal reblue. Gun came out looking the way it came out of the Waffen Werke.

Thank you,
Will muriatic acid work or just battery acid from the auto parts store?
Also, can I use just a small car charger, if so, what Amp setting?

[Rockindaddy]

Muriatic acid is HCL. Battery acid is H2SO4 solution. Never tried Muriatic but could possibly work. The chlorine gas that will be released from the solution is noxious.

[Rockindaddy]

Try an old car or motorcycle part to see if your set up works before you use it on a good 1911 slide. Saw a small chrome piece off a chrome bumper. Not much chrome on new cars these days.