Repair for loose action on Remington #4 rolling block

[dtknowles]

I know I saw it here somewhere but I can't find it now. Where to get oversize action bolts/pins for a Remington #4 rolling block.
Tim

[marlinman93]

Not sure, but if Ken Wommack doesn't have them, I bet he knows who does. Wommack's Rolling Block Parts.

[dtknowles]

Not sure, but if Ken Wommack doesn't have them, I bet he knows who does. Wommack's Rolling Block Parts.

Thanks, I shot him a message.

Tim

[hiram]

http://www.rollingblockparts.com/

[uscra112]

If all else fails, buy a couple of Class Z gage pins in the desired size. Good steel, through-hardened. Shorten with a cutoff wheel.

[marlinman93]

If all else fails, buy a couple of Class Z gage pins in the desired size. Good steel, through-hardened. Shorten with a cutoff wheel.

Wouldn't he need to turn them down to create the small head that keeps the pins from falling out the off side?

[uscra112]

Now you know how little I know about rolling blocks. Have never taken one apart. Yes, they would be too hard to turn with a lathe tool.

[marlinman93]

Now you know how little I know about rolling blocks. Have never taken one apart. Yes, they would be too hard to turn with a lathe tool.

https://www.ssfirearms.com/prodimages/giant/rb235.jpg

[uscra112]

Thanks

[dtknowles]

Actually on the #4 the pins are bolts with a long shank with only a few threads and a normal slotted head. I might post some pictures of this project. I just need some with an oversized shank as they are sloppy in the holes in the breach and hammer. I thought about bushing the holes but that would just make the breach and hammer weaker and they are already the weak link causing the problem.
Tim

[uscra112]

I've got a #4, but I can't find it at the moment. Agree that bushing the holes isn't the right approach.

I want to assume that the thread is the full diameter of the shank, like a Stevens. If so it's an easy lathe part. Maybe you don't have one?

Is the thread a standard size & pitch?

[marlinman93]

Guess I need to look at mine again and see. I don't recall a screw slot in the pins?
Dang. I found a picture on my imgur account of my #4, and sure enough they are a screw!

https://i.imgur.com/Rhz9d0ll.jpg

[dtknowles]

I've got a #4, but I can't find it at the moment. Agree that bushing the holes isn't the right approach.

I want to assume that the thread is the full diameter of the shank, like a Stevens. If so it's an easy lathe part. Maybe you don't have one?

Is the thread a standard size & pitch?

I will check the threads, if standard, then I can make them but was thinking that they might best be hard steel and I thought they were available but maybe not.

Tim

[dtknowles]

Guess I need to look at mine again and see. I don't recall a screw slot in the pins?
Dang. I found a picture on my imgur account of my #4, and sure enough they are a screw!

https://i.imgur.com/Rhz9d0ll.jpg

Mine is not pretty like that and not takedown either.

Tim

[uscra112]

I will check the threads, if standard, then I can make them but was thinking that they might best be hard steel and I thought they were available but maybe not.

Tim

I can speak for the Stevens 44 and Favorites, all of which had screws/bolts of mild steel. Not even case hardened. The breechblock pivot in the Favorite design takes about the same loads as the hammer pivot in the #4 rolling block. (Very few if any were made so the breech thrust was taken on the shoulders in the frame, as it ought to be.)

If you can make them, use O2 tool steel, which is easily hardened, although I wouldn't bother. Or maybe use 12L14 and case harden, if you happen to have any Kasenite around. Or its' replacement, called Cherry Red. Or Brownell's "Surface Hardening Compound". For that matter, you could whittle them out of a Grade 8 bolt and be better than the originals.