Lettering machine

[country gent]

319071319072

This is a lettering machine for stamping parts I made up. Table is 4" wide and 12" long. 1/4 20 holes in it. Thread is 3/8 16. Ram is 1 1/4" rack and pinion drive with an automatic punch built into it. Nose is removable for different sizes stamps. Right now I can use 1/16" and 1/8" stamps. Rail is bolted down and has a vee on top for round parts. I can use small strap clamps or double faced tape to hold parts.

Its easy to use and is consistent
Locate part on table.
Set height of ram.
Insert punch
Lower ram down loading the auto punch when it get to depth it trips and thunk you have a letter.
Index table over with 16 tpi its 1/16" per revolution of the hand wheel.

[elmacgyver0]

319071319072

This is a lettering machine for stamping parts I made up. Table is 4" wide and 12" long. 1/4 20 holes in it. Thread is 3/8 16. Ram is 1 1/4" rack and pinion drive with an automatic punch built into it. Nose is removable for different sizes stamps. Right now I can use 1/16" and 1/8" stamps. Rail is bolted down and has a vee on top for round parts. I can use small strap clamps or double faced tape to hold parts.

Its easy to use and is consistent
Locate part on table.
Set height of ram.
Insert punch
Lower ram down loading the auto punch when it get to depth it trips and thunk you have a letter.
Index table over with 16 tpi its 1/16" per revolution of the hand wheel.

Gun builder? by any chance?
By the way, that is awesome!

[gmsharps]

Great work. wish I could do that.

gmsharps

[jmorris]

I had one old set of stamps that had all of the letters at the same height from the edges of the tools, of course someone decided they needed them more than I did.

Still have my fixture though but my stamps now create letters that are at all different heights, like yours do.

One would think that would be an issue with more people but I guess it isn’t.

[M-Tecs]

I had one old set of stamps that had all of the letters at the same height from the edges of the tools, of course someone decided they needed them more than I did.

Still have my fixture though but my stamps now create letters that are at all different heights, like yours do.

One would think that would be an issue with more people but I guess it isn’t.

Very few people use a guide or fixture that locates off the side of the stamp. They just want the cheapest stamps for hand use.

For the ones that have that need they do sell stamp sets designed for holders or stamping machines. The issue is cost. I've built a couple of stamping machines for industrial use based on Hitt Marking Devices stamps https://www.hittmarking.com/category/steel-type-sets-with-holders/

You can get them short with a holder or full type hand stamps to be used with a hammer and guide fixture but they start at about 10 times normal cost and go up from there.

I have seen other brands but the was in the 90's and I don't remember the brands.

[country gent]

I have a set of the stamps that go in one holder and are driven at one time. better but not all that good and are very expensive as the set is actually 4 alphabets/numbers sets.

The issue I see in the letters difference is the "area of each letter", with my machine the stamp is the driver that cocks the automatic hammer and trips the trigger so length isnt an issue. the controlled blow and the difference in the area of each letter is. An A or 8 as much more surface area than a 1 or I.

[elmacgyver0]

I had one old set of stamps that had all of the letters at the same height from the edges of the tools, of course someone decided they needed them more than I did.

Still have my fixture though but my stamps now create letters that are at all different heights, like yours do.

One would think that would be an issue with more people but I guess it isn’t.

So, what are you trying to tell us.
Not everyone is up to your ability.

[John Taylor]

a few week ago I found a pantograph at a yard sale for $75. It came with all the letters and numbers. My wife grumbled a bit till I showed here what they were going for. I played with it a bit and then put the caliber marking on a barrel today.
319124

[country gent]

A pantograph with the forms would be a great addition to my shop.Has one at the one shop small light duty for doing electrical box and panels labels but if you were careful and easy it wold do nice on brass plates.

I got spoiled at the last shop as the fadals and proto tracs all had engraving programs on them, With several fonts available. The Fadals also could do serial numbers increasing with each part.

[Hannibal]

So, what are you trying to tell us.
Not everyone is up to your ability.

I think not. What I believe he is trying to say is it's extremely difficult to find a set of stamps that align correctly with a straight, fixed edge. No matter the cost. I've experienced the same issue myself and I presume that's why you see etching as much as you do these days.

I don't think it's a comment on the user. It's a comment on the manufacturers that routinely screw the pooch yet it appears to be acceptable now.

Once mediocrity is accepted then soon the level of mediocrity will be redefined. And not in a positive way.

[M-Tecs]

I think not. What I believe he is trying to say is it's extremely difficult to find a set of stamps that align correctly with a straight, fixed edge. No matter the cost. I've experienced the same issue myself and I presume that's why you see etching as much as you do these days.

I don't think it's a comment on the user. It's a comment on the manufacturers that routinely screw the pooch yet it appears to be acceptable now.

Once mediocrity is accepted then soon the level of mediocrity will be redefined. And not in a positive way.

It's all about cost. If you are willing to pay, they are readily available. https://www.hittmarking.com/products/51069-3-16-inch-sharp-face-steel-type-marking-kit

Cheap laser marking machines have replaced most of the need for stamps.

[Hannibal]

It's all about cost. If you are willing to pay, they are readily available. https://www.hittmarking.com/products/51069-3-16-inch-sharp-face-steel-type-marking-kit

Cheap laser marking machines have replaced most of the need for stamps.

I've bought a couple of sets of those stamps. Have you?

They aren't true to an edge, either. Got returned.

Just because it cost a lot doesn't automatically mean it's better.

[M-Tecs]

I've bought a couple of sets of those stamps. Have you?

They aren't true to an edge, either. Got returned.

Just because it cost a lot doesn't automatically mean it's better.

I haven't purchased any of them since the mid to late 90's. At that time, they were very good. I have a couple of the sets that got scraped due to wear in an industrial setting. For my use they are fine. Alignment is excellent but some of the high use letters don't stamp crystal clearly like new ones. Sad to hear QC has gone down.

[uscra112]

This is a subject that has rankled me for years, but which I do so little that I never do anything about it. Consequently there are a few barrel jobs in my collection that ought to be marked but aren't. Anything I do free-hand looks like it, so I let it slide. Nothing dangerous, mind you, just a couple of .22s, .25 rimfires, the odd .32 Long Colt, and a K-Hornet that I made up 10-12 years ago.

[Gewehr-Guy]

I have a set similar to the Hitt Marking set, called Pryor Interchangeable Steel Type, made by Minneapolis Molds & Engraving Co. It works, but kind of hard to get a consistent square hit on the type holder.

[Reg]

This is a subject that has rankled me for years, but which I do so little that I never do anything about it. Consequently there are a few barrel jobs in my collection that ought to be marked but aren't. Anything I do free-hand looks like it, so I let it slide. Nothing dangerous, mind you, just a couple of .22s, .25 rimfires, the odd .32 Long Colt, and a K-Hornet that I made up 10-12 years ago.

I feel your pain , been there and done that but really as we are just temporary custodians we owe it to any future custodian to properly caliber mark our work. My best attempts at hand stamping still leave a lot to be desired so what I have taken to is properly stamp any and all information on the barrel but under the forearm where it will not show.

[jmorris]

So, what are you trying to tell us.
Not everyone is up to your ability.

Not sure what gave you that impression. I am in the same boat as you now, that someone got my “good” stamps. Just pointing out that there are places that make them right but they are much more expensive as the link in M-Tec’s post shows.

[jmorris]

I think not. What I believe he is trying to say is it's extremely difficult to find a set of stamps that align correctly with a straight, fixed edge. No matter the cost. I've experienced the same issue myself and I presume that's why you see etching as much as you do these days.

I don't think it's a comment on the user. It's a comment on the manufacturers that routinely screw the pooch yet it appears to be acceptable now.

Once mediocrity is accepted then soon the level of mediocrity will be redefined. And not in a positive way.

Yep, that’s where I was coming from. The fixtures we use to line them up, take us humans out of the equation. It’s all the tooling (stamps) fault, not ours, if they are not properly aligned.

[uscra112]

I suppose that one could adjust the alignment of cheaper stamps by trimming the relevant side(s) on a surface grinder, but that would be a godawful lot of work!

[country gent]

My set of 1/8" only have a very few high Im thinking of gluing a small shim on them to move them down. Easier than cutting the rest all down to match them

[Rapier]

My holder is only four #s or letters wide, so anything over four in combination is a mess or not done. I like the idea of the tool/fixture being adjustable and a single punch at a time, with an attached hammer.

Country Gent, Do you have drawings or plans for the lettering machine you designed and built?

[country gent]

No drawings or blueprints it was a bench up build as I went.

The base / bed is 1" X 6" X 8" aluminum, this has the ways for the table and threads in it.
The column in the back is 1/2 x 1 3/4" x 12" aluminum with spacers top and bottom. bolted together with 1/4 20 flat heads 4 top and bottom
Arm is 1 3/4 X 1 3/4 length depends on your build. there is a tenon on the back .750 x 1.750 x 1 .730 long this fits in the slot in the column
Table is 3/8 x 4 x 12 cold rolled steel If I did it again this would be 1/2" thick. Hole pattern is 1/4 20 3/4" centers staggered on each row. This allows a vise or hold downs to be used
drive threads are 3/8 16 threaded rod this gives 1/16" per turn. there is one for the table and one in the arm / column giving X and Z adjustment. A p;ate with 2 1/3 20 bolts locjs the arm in place this is 1/2" x 1 3/4 x 1 3/4 aluminum
4 feet under bed afain to what you want.

Bill of materials
1 ea 1 x 6 x 8 aluminum
2 ea 3/4' x 1 3/4" x 12" aluminum
2 ea 1 1/4" x 3 x 4" x 1 3/4" aluminum
1 ea 3/8' X 4" X 12" this works but 1/2" would give more treads to work with
1 ea 1 3/4" x 1 3/4" x ? aluminum
1 ea 1 1/4" x 6" round cold rolled steel (ram)
2 ea 3/8" 16 X 14" threaded rod
4 ea 1 1/4 x 2" aluminum round or hex stock for the feet