Beater 20 gauge slug project

[Abert Rim]

Found an old (1964, hey wait a minute!) Model 58 Stevens bolt-action shotgun fairy cheap, and ordered primed Fiocchi hulls, DGS and Thug slugs and the loading manual from Ballistic Products -- and the "four-bump" roll crimper from Precision. Made up five loads of the DGS slug over 25 grains Longshot and five of the Thug over 20 grains of Unique, finger seated and roll crimped and took them to the range yesterday. I have some work to do on the gun, including improved sights and trigger and opening the nearly full choke, but the loads sure did go bang.

https://i.postimg.cc/bSdg9zf8/image-67185153.jpg (https://postimg.cc/bSdg9zf8)

https://i.postimg.cc/Btvm0CLy/image-67200001-1.jpg (https://postimg.cc/Btvm0CLy)

[pietro]

.

FWIW

Back, before the introduction of specialty "slug guns", when I was converting shotguns for our state's shotgun-only deer seasons, I used to shorten the barrel enough to remove the choke ( finishing the muzzle afterwards) - then epoxied a rifle front sight and a receiver peepsight to the guns (none of my epoxy-applied sights ever came loose).

[TurnipEaterDown]

Looks like the red tailed slugs are hitting tipped/sideways.

[pietro]

.

In smoothbores, I've found that a Foster-type slug shoots better than a saboted or cushioned slug.

[Abert Rim]

The DGS slugs showed some yaw and grouped in 4 inches; the Thugs were much worse and grouped in 7.
I may just cut the choke off the barrel. Pietro, epoxy you say, eh, bro?

[Mk42gunner]

You could go whole hog and fit it for screw in chokes, then find a rifled tube for it. I'm not that wild about screw in chokes, but for this situation it does make sense.

Probably only cost three or four times what the gun is worth.

Had to chime in I'm a 64 vintage myself.

Robert

[pietro]

.

Yep, epoxy.........

I did them over 40 years ago, and my friends that haven't gone to rifled-barrelled slug guns are still using the guns I converted, with the sights in the same condition as when I installed them.

(I did remove the finish from the bottom of the sight bases, and the area where they sit on the gun's metal - also giving those surfaces a tad of rough filing and an acetone rub to ensure the epoxy had a firm grip on both parts)

.

[longbow]

I suggest trying round ball loads... eithe rball in shotcup or full bore ball if there is no choke.

I have not shot 20 ga. but for 12 ga. good round ball loads from smoothbore should group 4" or less to 50 yards or more. I have had good success with both ball in shotcups and with full bore round balls.

For ball in shotcup use a nitro card wad that will sit in the bottom of the shotcup. I use 16 or 20 ga. nitro card wads for 12 ga. shotcups. I'd guess 24 or 28 ga. would work for 20 ga. shotcups but I am sure someone will chime in with that. For full bore round ball I found best accuracy using a plastic gas seal then hard card wad column under a bore diameter+ ball.

For me, some Foster style slugs have worked fairly well but out to 50 yards it is hard to beat a round ball.

Something to think about anyway.

Longbow

[725]

I'm with longbow, here. Round ball loads are the way to go for me. I suggest a tight fit within the barrel for the ball / shot cup unit. Tight - but safe. Keeps the ball centered and after leaving the barrel, the ball flies rather well. Generally need a clean separation of ball & shot cup so the shot cup doesn't affect the ball in flight. I've found folded crimps to be best. Not to say a roll crimp won't work, I have just always been concerned the over card may not leave the barrel straight and if it gets caught between the barrel and the ball, may cause some issues. Best of luck.

[rickt300]

How often are you cleaning? Are those slugs doing a lot of lead smearing in your barrel? I have a couple of barrels that need the steel wool treatment after 5 or so shots to maintain accuracy.

[Abert Rim]

Rick I had been warned to expect heavy fouling but the bore is still pretty clean after 10 shots.

[rickt300]

10 shots is good enough for me. I just priced a crimp base jaws and roll crimper. bit more than 80$ shipped. If you do get any serious leading shooting a few shot loads will remove a lot of it.

[Abert Rim]

I have to admit I am thinking harder about having the choke cut off and the muzzle threaded for a choke tube, especially after watching this guy's video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PzWKjhWyxpw

I made my "hull vise" with a piece of 2X4 and a small strap hinge. Works fine.
https://i.postimg.cc/4m4S6F3d/image-16895489.jpg (https://postimg.cc/4m4S6F3d)

[W.R.Buchanan]

I would agree with the "cut the barrel off and thread for Rem Chokes" Idea as you could run a Rifled Choke Tube. You also need some proper sights on the gun. Like Longbow said round balls in a wad would probably work well out to 50 yards. I would also try Lee Slugs in wads with a Nitro Card under the slug. I have had excellent results with Lee Slugs and a Carlson's Rifled Choke Tube in my Monkeyberg.

One thing I would recommend is using some Ballistic Products Powdered Mica on the wads before you load them . This would cut down on plastic fouling in the barrel.

Good Luck on your project!

Randy