Range report on 2 40/65's.

[koger]

I had posted on here and had pics posted of a Ruger No 1 with a custom barrel and a Pedersoli Sharps in 40/65. I had hit and miss results with the Ruger, and had mounted a slick Weaver steel tube 10x on it. I remember talking to someone, I want to think it was Val Miller on here, about 40/65's some time back, and I remember them telling me, most of them would shoot light bullets good, regardless of the twist. The No 1 has a 1-14 twist and the Sharps has 1-18 twist. I went thru my molds and bullets, the lightest I had was some 325gr, that I had shot in my 40/82. I decided to PC them, and load them unsized, with 13 gr of Unique. I loaded up 50 and started shooting at 25 yds. The sharps hit to point of aim, then I went to 100 yds on a 3x3' target with 2 black dot targets in the middle of it. First shot at 100 was low, left. So I cranked up the sights and some windage, high right, then with 3 more sighters, i got it dialed in. I was putting the tiny bead I had on the front, on the bottom of the dot, makeing a figure 8. First 2 shots cut each other, in the edge of the dot, the third one was 1/2" right, for just under 1" group, I was a happy camper, because the sight covered up more than the group. Then I turned to the no 1, at 25 yds it hit the bullet hole I shot at, in the top half of the hole. Turning the 10x Weaver on a bullet hole at 100, it was about 2" high and left about 1", took 2 more shots then the third one hit under the crosshair. Holding on the hole, I shot 2 more into a cloverleaf, agains my better judgement I shot a 4th shot, and it punched the center out of the cloverleaf, group was about 3/4". To say I am happy is an understatmen I shot 10 more rounds thru each one out to 150 yds, on a steep bank in my pasture, picking out small rocks, tufts of grass, a stick and so forth, and missed very few, had to hold over just a tad at 150. I swabbed both barrels out with 2 patches wet with clenzoil, and they were good to go. The no 1 had hardly any recoil, and the Sharps didnt move, about like shooting a .22. These are two of my most accurate single shots, with bigger bores. Just thought I would share.

[gnoahhh]

Bravo! I have a recently acquired Ballard Pacific action with a pristine .40-65 Douglas bull barrel that will soon start to bark (as soon as CPA sends the wood they're carving for it). It also came with a fitted .32-40 barrel and a partially fitted .40-70 barrel. Debating whether to leave it as a two barrel set or finish fitting the .40-70 barrel too and make it a three barrel Ballard set. The first "fun dilemma" I've had in a while!

Being a novice with BPCR's, I have a dumb question: is it a matter of simply running .45-70 brass into a .40-65 die to create proper brass?

[pworley1]

Congratulations!

[koger]

Bravo! I have a recently acquired Ballard Pacific action with a pristine .40-65 Douglas bull barrel that will soon start to bark (as soon as CPA sends the wood they're carving for it). It also came with a fitted .32-40 barrel and a partially fitted .40-70 barrel. Debating whether to leave it as a two barrel set or finish fitting the .40-70 barrel too and make it a three barrel Ballard set. The first "fun dilemma" I've had in a while!

Being a novice with BPCR's, I have a dumb question: is it a matter of simply running .45-70 brass into a .40-65 die to create proper brass?

Pretty much is all there is too it, but I would measure the brass afterwards to make sure it is not too long. I have about 300 rounds of factory brass and have not tried to make it. That is basically what I did with my 40/82, just ran 45/90 brass into the fl die and that was it.

[marlinman93]

When I had plenty of excess .45-70 brass I made lots of .40-65, .38-56, and .33 WCF brass from .45-70 and of course the .40-65 was the easiest. Just some Hornady spray lube on the brass, and one shoot through my .40-65 die, and it was ready to go. As mentioned you will need to check length, but mine were fine as is.

[Mr.doug]

Don’t forget to anneal the brass first

[marlinman93]

Don’t forget to anneal the brass first

I haven't ever had to anneal first going to .40-65, but I do lightly anneal when working them down to smaller sizes.
Sometimes annealing first can result in losing cases also, so I normally anneal after forming when going to .40-65, but prior to when going even smaller to avoid wrinkles.