Hammer "bob"

[Battis]

I just watched a Larry Potterfield (Midway) video on how to "bob" a hammer. Looks easy enough. But, someone posted this in the comment section under the video:
"Larry, you forgot to stone the single action notch on the hammer. Once you bob a hammer you lose the ability to lower the hammer safely back. That's why if you bob the hammer you should render it DAO."

Makes sense...right?

[LAGS]

Removing the single action ability is a very good idea if you Bob the hammer.
I have done pistols both ways.
On pistols that still have a single action notch are harder to cock.
But if you can cock the hammer.
You should be able to lower it also.
Yes.
It is not going to be "As Safe " as it was originally.
But a lot of pistols can still work well in single action.
I do have a friend that is considering having his hammer Bobbed on a .38.
He hasn't decided yet.
But the hammer does hang up on his shirt when he has to carry it concealed , which he does almost constantly because of where he works.

[BK7saum]

The single action notch is engaged when the hammer travels further rearward than the release point in double action. There really should not be an instance where you are engaging the single action notch when the revolver is used in a traditional double action mode, therefore you shojld not need to "let the hammer down"

[Battis]

I have a S&W Airweight .38 that I have considered bobbing the hammer (snag issue. Rare, but it does happen). The gun isn't worth much in a trade or sale but it is a good carry gun. I'm at the pondering point.
What about light hammer strikes?
Then, is there a legality aspect?

[HWooldridge]

Depending on the model, I've seen the hammer spur bent downward (heat with an OA torch), so it doesn't hook in clothing. Just needs enough clearance to not make contact with the grip frame.

[LAGS]

On a couple of pistols that I "Bobbed" the hammer.
I had to install a heavier hammer mainspring.
Lightening up the hammer did reduce the dents in the primers.
The heavier mainspring increases the trigger pull on the DAO models.
But that was safer and didn't effect accuracy on a self defense pistol.
Also.
Check your firing pin protrusion.
Firing pins with minimum protrusion can cause misfires when you Bob the hammer.

[Battis]

It was an idea that seemed good at first but the more it percolates in my head, not so much. I have a Sneaky Pete holster that I should use more - it'll solve the snagging problem. My daughter has a Ruger with a shrouded hammer which makes sense.

[LAGS]

@Battis.
Bobbing the hammer is a great idea if needed.
But like you said.
It is more than just cutting off the hammer spur.
But the other things that I mentioned are things that you need to check anyway if you carry a pistol for self defense.
You want to have a Very Reliable pistol for your self defense.
I recently had to replace a hammer nose / firing pin on a Rossi 885 that was at minimum protrusion.
The gun every so once in a while misfired doing double action shooting.
That is caused because a hammer does not draw back as far on double action over single action.
That can cause lighter strikes on the primer sometimes.
Now that pistol fires more reliable.
I also installed a little heavier mainspring and it didn't make the trigger pull that much heavier.

[Froogal]

I have a S&W Airweight .38 that I have considered bobbing the hammer (snag issue. Rare, but it does happen). The gun isn't worth much in a trade or sale but it is a good carry gun. I'm at the pondering point.
What about light hammer strikes?
Then, is there a legality aspect?

I have that same Airweight .38 special. Came from the factory with a bobbed hammer. In fact, no part of the hammer is even visible. It is ALL inside. Also have a Ruger snubby in .357, with the bobbed hammer, except what remains of the hammer IS visible. Just can't get a hold on any of it. I'm not really sure that I like either one because of the bobbed hammers, but for occasional use I can live with them.

[stubshaft]

I've bobbed the hammer on a couple of my snubbies. I usually install a stronger mainspring and file grooves on the top of the hammer so that I can lower the hammer safely.

[pietro]

.

FWIW:

I've often found that stoning/smoothing the issue hammer top edges (both sides) and all around the top/sides/back of the spur can avoid snagging clothing during a draw.

For those who want to shoot a bobber SA, as noted above, I would definitely recommend filing a few cross grooves across the top of the bobbed hammer to give thumb purchase when manually cocking to SA mode, or when lowering the hammer.


I've bobbed several different DA revolvers over the past 55-odd years, and there was no effect on hammer strike/ignition.

.

[rkrcpa]

I have a couple of revolvers with bobbed hammers. Both of them I had converted to DAO. In each case it was done partially because I don't intend to fire either one single action, but also to eliminate the risk that someone would cock the hammer and then have an accident when lowering it.

https://i.imgur.com/3o29pmT.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/idXStnw.jpg (https://imgur.com/idXStnw)

[armoredman]

Only hammer bobbed revolver I have owned yet was a Taurus 85CH. It worked quite well, but it went to a young lady and her husband who lost everything in a fire years ago.

[centershot]

I ground the hammer spur off my old S&W M36 years ago, never had a problem with misfires, even with CCI primers. It wasn't difficult to use it single-action either, but you wanted to be sure to point it in a safe direction when you lowered the hammer manually. For the most part I treated it as a DAO and in very short time the action smoothed up nicely!

[hoodat]

Everyone with a SA/DA revolver should realize that if you want to dramatically improve your handgun accuracy, STOP SHOOTING SINGLE ACTION MODE!

When you discipline yourself to become proficient with your double action trigger, you learn total handgun control - grip, trigger, sight, -- it's a sure way to overcome trigger flinch. And you will be amazed to find that your DA shooting will soon be as accurate as you SA shooting. jd

[LAGS]

This week I plan on "Bobbing " the hammer on a Rossi 885 .38 5 shot.
I will retain the single and double action modes for right now.
I can always delete the single action mode later if I want.
I also have a S&W Victory 38/200 that has a .38 SPL cylinder also.
I have a spare hammer that I am thinking about Bobbing and deleting the single action mode.
I had a Enfield Mk2 that was issued with a Bobbed hammer and only DAO mode.
It was fun to shoot with the 38/200 rounds.

[Battis]

I have an Enfield MK2 that I completely forgot about until I read your post. It has a bobbed hammer, and, from what I understand, they were called the "Tanker" model. Apparently, tank crews liked bobbed hammers due to the cramped space inside. I shot the 200 gr bullets, and some lighter 158 gr bullets. Gotta pull that gun out of the safe.

[LAGS]

I like the 38/200 round.
I also shoot the 38 S&W out of the Victory model like I did with the Enfield Mk 2.
I picked up a .38 SPL cylinder from a US model.
I shoot .38 SPL rounds out of the pistol and didn't modify the original 38/200 cylinder.
The bore is a little larger on the 38/200 model.
But it shoots .38 SPL ammo pretty good , especially if I shoot Powder Coated lead Boolits that are sized a little larger.
Bobbing the extra hammer that I have for that model will put it into that "Tanker " version of British pistols.
But I also have another Victory model that is in great shape and in Original condition.

[Baltimoreed]

Bobbed a few and didn’t do anything else to them.317410

[Daekar]

There is no scenario where I can imagine shooting my Model 60 in single-action, it's just there to get in the way. The double-action pull is so good anyway, I don't know why I would bother. I might do this at some point, or buy a properly-weighted aftermarket hammer that's not going to require a spring change. Best to stay as close to stock as possible.

[StrawHat]

Since I use double action revolvers for everything, I have no real need for a hammer spur and on some of my revolvers, I have removed them. I had a Model 36 that I removed the spur. I did not alter it to DAO but there was not need. I did not remove the spur from my Model 36-1, not sure why as that was the revolver I carried the most during that decade. Now, I prefer the 45 ACP cartridge and revolver. I cobbled this from a basket case Model 25-2.

317415

It is a fantastic carry option and accurate enough for PPC competition. I no longer compete but I still shoot. I should have built this back when I competed!

The hammer spur is removed and the resulting scar polished. The trigger has been smoothed and polished. The action has been gone over and it is DAO. The trigger pull is one of the best, and it still has factory springs. I do not like light pulls. I like smooth, consistent trigger pulls. This one has that, in spades!

Kevin

[Texas by God]

I’m the oddball I guess.
I’ve never bobbed a hammer, I like to have the single action option in case I have to hit something small( like a squirrel).
As a matter of fact, my brother and I cut a SA notch on his Enfield .38/200 revolver.
Start the hammer back with the DA pull, then catch the top of the hammer to finish cocking it.
It sure made it easier to hit small game with!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Rapier]

Then there is Jerry Miculek, that carries a full stock M-27 N frame Smith with a 4" bbl. His opinion, is that you should shoot the gun as made and not modify it, beyond smoothing the action, allowing your practice to replace any problems, not do mods to try and replace your practice. I think this was already mentioned.

Shot in several matches with Jerry over the years and heard him address revolver mods on several occasions, he always allowed as to how smoothing an action is as far as he goes, he uses a stock trigger, stock hammer and stock springs.

Changed my ideas on revolver mods considerably. Nothing quite like going to a local monthly IPSC match outside of Mobile, AL and running into this new guy, a skinny bolt of lightning, called Jerry and being "on deck" just off his right shoulder behind him and not knowing him from Adams house cat. Did not take very long to figure out if you want to shoot with this Jerry, you best bring your A, B and C game, cause he brings his.

[LAGS]

I never looked at or considered trying to install or make the Enfield Mk2 to a single action ability.
That pistol was in great condition , so I left it in original condition.
But the one Victory model that I have was kinda rough on the outside.
So since the originality was gone.
Why not play with it and make something better.
Since I have a spare hammer , Bobbing it will be good since I mostly shoot it double action anyway.
But the pistol with a 5" barrel really isn't very concealable.
But the spur in the hammer is up in the line of the sights.
So Bobbing the hammer may improve double action sighting since the rear sight will be visible before you start pulling the trigger.

[elmacgyver0]

I know you ain't gonna like it, but in my opinion, if you need to bob the hammer, you bought he wrong gun in the first place.

[LAGS]

You are correct.
They make lots of pistols that are designed for the Bobbed Hammers.
But customizing a SoSo pistol to get a different kind of use out of it is a good option.
If you have a Cheap Gun.
You can always improve it to your needs.

[Battis]

As I said earlier, it was a thought I had (bobbing the hammer) but that thought passed. The hammer snagged for an instant and I said, "Son of a bob, I'll chop that right off." But, I like having the hammer, even on a semi-auto.

[wilecoyote]

bobbing the hammer of a combat19 reduces the weight of the hammer,.
the results on the percussion are nefarious_
the only thing worse is lightening the springs in conjunction with that as well_

I thank (and agree with) those who indicated the opportunity to use heavier springs, if one is willing to this bobbing modification.

[Cap'n Morgan]

Lightening the hammer (like when bobbing it) doesn't necessarily result in a weaker primer strike. If the weight reduction makes the hammer drop faster, it may actually strike harder.

I once 'semi-bobbed' the hammer on a CZ 75 because it would 'bite' me from time to time. I was wondering if the lighter hammer would cause problems (the gun has a floating firing pin), and before cutting I did a quick test by crimping a hollow base .38 wad cutter boolit on the hammer spur. This made the hammer so heavy that the gun would fail to fire.
I then deducted (Elementary, my dear Watson) that I could safely remove half the spur without problems.

[JoeJames]

I’m the oddball I guess.
I’ve never bobbed a hammer, I like to have the single action option in case I have to hit something small( like a squirrel).
As a matter of fact, my brother and I cut a SA notch on his Enfield .38/200 revolver.
Start the hammer back with the DA pull, then catch the top of the hammer to finish cocking it.
It sure made it easier to hit small game with!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

You ain't the only oddball. I have several Smiths that I am sure I have never shot double action - 15, 67, 66, 63. But I am a nut for accuracy. Always have been. My absolute favorite though is my Lipsey Ruger BH 41/2" in pure dee single action.

[rintinglen]

Bill Davis, PPC gun guru extraordinaire, once opined that it was easier to get a reliable, light trigger with a bobbed hammer than with the heavier, untouched hammer. Consequently, I would not worry about the reduced weight of the hammer affecting reliability. I have bobbed a hammer or two, but I no longer do so. I have a 640 and a 342 that have concealed hammers and for bigger revolvers, I want the hammer spur for a thumbreak holster.

[wilecoyote]

someone could say more about heavier spring(s) in a S&W m19, intended about use with a bobbed hammer ?
thank you

[LAGS]

Does the M 19 use a Flat Main Spring ?
I have never changed the flat springs.
But the screw in the frame can be tightened or loosened to change the pressure.
The Rossi I installed the heavier Main Spring is a coiled spring.
I have lots of springs that I bought from Wolfe years ago.
For heavier coil springs.
I use one that is a little larger wire diameter or cut it a little longer than the factory spring.
As long as the compressed length is not too long that will keep the hammer from rotating all the way back.
On the Victory model S&W that I am going to Bob the hammer.
To increase the spring pressure if needed.
I will try to install a longer spring retaining screw to increase the bow in the flat mainspring just a little.

[wilecoyote]

Does the M 19 use a Flat Main Spring ?.
Yes
I will try to install a longer spring retaining screw to increase the bow in the flat mainspring just a little.[/QUOTE]
OK_thank you very much!_

[StrawHat]

Does the M 19 use a Flat Main Spring ?
I have never changed the flat springs.
But the screw in the frame can be tightened or loosened to change the pressure.
The Rossi I installed the heavier Main Spring is a coiled spring.
I have lots of springs that I bought from Wolfe years ago.
For heavier coil springs.
I use one that is a little larger wire diameter or cut it a little longer than the factory spring.
As long as the compressed length is not too long that will keep the hammer from rotating all the way back.
On the Victory model S&W that I am going to Bob the hammer.
To increase the spring pressure if needed.
I will try to install a longer spring retaining screw to increase the bow in the flat mainspring just a little.

I am guessing the M19 mentioned is a Smith & Wesson Model 19?

If yes, the screw you mention is not designed to adjust tension. It is designed to hold the mainspring in place and should be snugged tight. At least that is what they taught in the Armorer’s school back in revolver days. More problems occur when you shorten or loosen that screw than they resolve.

I have competition revolvers and they all have factory springs and the strain screws are all screwed in tight.

If you need a longer strain screw, Allen screws are good substitutes.

Kevin

[wilecoyote]

I am guessing the M19 mentioned is a Smith & Wesson Model 19?

If yes, the screw you mention is not designed to adjust tension. It is designed to hold the mainspring in place and should be snugged tight. At least that is what they taught in the Armorer’s school back in revolver days. More problems occur when you shorten or loosen that screw than they resolve.

I have competition revolvers and they all have factory springs and the strain screws are all screwed in tight.

If you need a longer strain screw, Allen screws are good substitutes.

Kevin

...me too, and I fully agree with what you said_ in my mind, I was oriented to put a purpose built spacer between the tight snugged screw and the main spring, replicating the concept of a longer strain screw, and see if it works...

[rintinglen]

@ Wiley
Back in the day, we used to pull the anvil out of a spent primer and then use the cup, placed over the tip of the strain screw as a spacer. Usually, that would be just enough to return a malfunctioning PPC gun to proper operation.

[wilecoyote]

@ Wiley
Back in the day, we used to pull the anvil out of a spent primer and then use the cup, placed over the tip of the strain screw as a spacer. Usually, that would be just enough to return a malfunctioning PPC gun to proper operation.

You said it ! :D

[LAGS]

I have used the primer cup on the mainspring screw to increase the tightness of the screw in revolvers that the screw was a little short.
It is a simple fix , and like mentioned.
It can increase the spring tension a bit.
Using the primer cup was way quicker than trying to find a longer screw when I was rebuilding revolvers.
I think on some revolvers,
People would file the screw shorter to try and lighten the spring pressure to lighten the Double Action trigger pull.

[wilecoyote]

I think on some revolvers, People would file the screw shorter to try and lighten the spring pressure to lighten the Double Action trigger pull.

...filing the screw shorter or putting a shim under the head of the same screw...tried a zillion years ago on my first S&W (Victory .38) but, even as rookie, it was unsatisfactory at best, in my memories _