Casting temp. for Lee

[Slinger]

Hey Fellas- I know I read it, but can't remember how hot you run the metal for a Lee double cavity. Also, thinking that Lyman moulds like metal around 750? It's been alot of years since I've casted & can't remember particulars. I'm using #2 Alloy- Lino- 50/50- WW. Thanks!

[docone31]

I run my Lee Pot at full tilt, and my Lee molds so they freeze about six seconds after pouring. Seems to work real well for me.

[John Boy]

Slinger - determine the melt temperature so the sprue puddle frosts in 5 seconds. That's the temperature for that mold and a rule of thumb that can be used for any mold. There is no one specific temperature that fits all molds

And don't be surprised that with a double cavity or any multiple cavity mold that all the bullets will not drop at the same weight.

[Recluse]

With my Lee double-cavity moulds, I like to run the alloy just under 900F. I don't get new-nickel shiny like boolits, but I also don't get badly frosted boolits either. Basically, they come out just right for my tastes.

If I run the iron and steel moulds that hot, they frost for sure. Frosting doesn't bother me, but for me it needs to serve a purpose and often times it helps the lube stick better.

:coffee:

[454PB]

I've used Lee moulds for 35 years, and until about 2 years ago didn't know what temperature I used. I bought an RCBS thermometer and learned that I cast at between 720 to 750 degrees. The boolits come out lightly frosted, just the way I like them.

[marlinman2008]

:castmine: I only use lee moulds and wheel weights and found that the temperatures from one mould to the next may vary like a 440gr .501 requires less heat than a 200gr .429 and i think it has to do with the amount of lead thats going into them and being an alluminum mould they heat up quicker than steel thus you have more temperature swings so if your casts turn out wrinkly there are only a few problems it can be your moulds too cold or you need to smoke it with the wooden stick of the match or you have some type of residue on it or bad lead.if they turn out good then frosted have a dish with a wet cloth beside you ready and after you cut the sprue with the bullets still in the mould touch the mould to the wet cloth for about 3 seconds and drop bullets and resume casting you will find that this action will become a part of your routine about every 3 to 10 drops it takes away the heat not quickly but just enough and i use a lee pro 4-20 which i run at settings between 4 and 6 1/2 depending on the grain and type of bullet im casting but theres never an exact science it always varys. also if your casting from wheel weights you can turn that 10 bnh to a 19+ by droping the bullets from the mould directly into a bucket of water with cloth at the bottom you can check the bhn daily and watch as it rises it takes about 3 days for them to cure you can get about 15 by droping them on a damp cloth and let them damp cool its a good trick to know

[Tokarev]

As I am new to their rifle calibre moulds, what can you recommend for 2cav 200gr 308 mould? I found that my usual setting of 5 on the pot results in difficult extraction. I cast tons of round ball and revolver calibre bullets, which simply pop out of the cavities. The rifle mould caught me off guard.

[supv26]

I have an older Lee furnace and it does not have a switch. I just plug it in and wait for it to melt the lead. As for my Lee mold, I smoke it and then set it on the edge of the pot waiting for the melt to be ready. When the melt is ready I touch the mold to the melt. When the melt won't stick to the bottom of it I am ready to pour.

[Slinger]

Thanks for all the advice! I got way more than I thought I would. You guys'll save me alot of fiddin' around.