Cleaning rod handle that rotates

[Chill Wills]

I am looking for plans or methods of attaching a cleaning rod handle that can rotate.
I have a length of SS and metal lathe. Looking to make a long, bomb proof, one piece rod and have the handle spin free to follow the rifling.
I am looking for ideas on the "insides" of the free rotating handle.

Thanks in advance, Chill

[Pipefitter]

A couple ball bearings with snap rings on the front and back should work. 608-2rs bearings, the shaft just a bit longer than the handle, drilled and tapped to fit the cleaning rod. I can draw it out on paper for you if you like.

[NSB]

Buy a Tipton, they’re made that way. Good product.

[MUSTANG]

Buy a military M-16, M-14, or 50 Caliber cleaning rod handle. Thread your rod to mate with the correct handle for your single-piece Steel Rod. All three of these military handles are designed to allow the rod to turn when pushing or pulling the Cleaning rod.

[country gent]

Dewey rods use a thrust bearing front and back and a nylon bushing in the middle.

I would use this set up and a self locking nut counter bored on the back side. Tighten to set end play

[hoodat]

I can give my Dewey handle a spin, and it spins for 15-20 seconds. It doesn't take much to keep me occupied, and sometimes I just sit and enjoy it for awhile. :razz: I would recommend whatever system they use. jd

[Chill Wills]

Dewey rods use a thrust bearing front and back and a nylon bushing in the middle.

I would use this set up and a self locking nut counter bored on the back side. Tighten to set end play

It all sounds good. I am needing a visual or drawing to understand. For this project, I guess I am a visual learner. I can hack out a few prototypes but I hope not to make this more than once.

Even the simple Hoppe's and other cheap little rods have swivel handles. I do not want to destroy one to see how they have done it.

Thanks all. Keep it coming!!!

[country gent]

Look to Mcmaster Carr for the thrust bearings and locking nut. Ill draw it up shortly. Its not a hard set up and no tricky machining.

[country gent]

317246

Here iss a crude assembly drawing no dimensions since I dont know what your working with material wise

[Chill Wills]

317246

Here iss a crude assembly drawing no dimensions since I dont know what your working with material wise

NICE!!!!

This is very helpful! Thanks for putting the time in to draw this up! I get it now.

One question, ...two really: What does it say lettered in the upper right, and I assume the shaft on the upper right with the half round drawn on it is one piece continuing with the cleaning rod shaft?

The pictured is turned a little and I am having trouble with the far side.

Thank you for the help! Chill

[Chill Wills]

By the way, I will be making two rods. One with 1/4" SS and the other using 5/16" SS

[country gent]

Its says this end is drilled to accept rod.Drilled to a close fit the rod is locktited into this part. It allows for the correct size nut to be used

[country gent]

Ive been using file handles for tools for years when I can. a little sanding and oil finish they are cheap and look very good. As above look to Mcmaster Carr for parts.

[Chill Wills]

The idea is to use the brass and walnut I have on hand for the handle. I intend to make all the parts, great and small. One rod will be a gift for a friend. In this case, making it all is kinda the point. I will however consider buying the bearings. I really appreciate your help. This basic design gives me a lot to go on.
Be safe, Michael Rix

[wilecoyote]

NICE!!!!
This is very helpful! Thanks for putting the time in to draw this up! I get it now.
One question, ...two really: What does it say lettered in the upper right, and I assume the shaft on the upper right with the half round drawn on it is one piece continuing with the cleaning rod shaft? The pictured is turned a little and I am having trouble with the far side. Chill
...straightened:arrow::razz:
317267

[country gent]

When Im having a hard time "seeing" project I set the parts out on the bench like an assembly drawing sometimes it helps.

[Chill Wills]

When Im having a hard time "seeing" project I set the parts out on the bench like an assembly drawing sometimes it helps.

Indeed!
I also start drawing fast on graph paper. Quick and dirty.

I don't have time to cut metal this month but I did take time to sketch out some rough measurements today. Thanks!

[Dutchman]

I can give my Dewey handle a spin, and it spins for 15-20 seconds. It doesn't take much to keep me occupied, and sometimes I just sit and enjoy it for awhile.

This sounds like a Youtube video in the making.

Dutch

[Chill Wills]

It turns out that thrust bearings are super expensive. I am going to do (try) a work around.

[country gent]

Chill Heres what I found in thrust bearings
Mc Master Carr

1/2" id 15/16 od .249 thk

Part number 6655K17 3.82 ea

For the 2 rods you will need 4

Again not knowing size I picked this size at random as a mid point to what you might need

[wilecoyote]

...bushings, teflon or brass,
or these cheap-china-wood cutters as donors...
317725

[Chill Wills]

Thanks for finding those. I did not see anything in that price range.
I am prototyping a handle in scrap that doesn't use bearings. We will see how that works out.
Waiting for a new, sharp 8-32 HSS tap to arrive to complete the prototype. I broke the less than sharp one off in the SS. That stainless is always a tough tap job any time I do it.
If this bearingless design does not work out, I will be getting those from M C.

[Chill Wills]

...bushings, teflon or brass,
or these cheap-china-wood cutters as donors...
317725

I think those are for side-loads.I need end-loads. Thrust bearings. But thanks!!! I might have a work around!

[country gent]

Do a search for Anchor Lube. Its a cutting tapping lube made for high pressure applications. Water clean up, dosnt stain, stays in place, And is one of the best to be found. Its a light green color and creamy in texture, a little bit goes a long ways. When you find their site you will find a offer for a free 2 ounce trial bottle. But once you try it youll never want to be without again.

Several things with tapping stainless, 1) break chips often 2) clear chips often if these build up they will gald and your done 3)drilling the tap hole a few thousandths bigger will help 4) a small chamfer cut with a sharp tool helps 5) heres a trick that is a big help if you have room for it, on one side of the hole drill a body size ( not clearance) 1/8" deep. This will aid starting the tap straight and protect the first thread 6) if possible start the tap in your drill presses chuck turning by hand this keeps it straight to you hole and from flexing or bending. A pin the size of the chuck key hole helps turn bigger taps

But seriously you wont believe the difference the Anchor lube will make

[Chill Wills]

But seriously you wont believe the difference the Anchor lube will make

I have new HSS taps coming tomorrow and took your advice on the Anchor Lube and ordered it from Amazon. I have been using Tap Magic and one other cutting oil.
Won't be doing anything with this project until next week.

[wilecoyote]

I think those are for side-loads.I need end-loads. Thrust bearings. But thanks!!! I might have a work around!

...I apologize, I was focused on bearings.
However, keep an eye on these small cheap cutters, because the steel balls contained inside can often be used to replace missing/lost ones in old high-end scope turrets (Zeiss/Hensoldt/Schmidt-Bender).
I discovered it on the recommendation of a hardware store clerk...
keep up your good work !

[M-Tecs]

Standard roller bearings are more than adequate for the for the end loading in a cleaning rod. I've only repaired on cleaning rod with bearings. They were standard roller bearings.

[Hdskip]

This is a very under engineered but effective rod that works very well.

319273319274

[William Yanda]

Thread the end of the shaft, istall an acorn nut, top with an appropriately sized washer and capture in the handle of your choice, perhaps two halves, split laterally, with a recess to house the washer and acorn nut.

[Chill Wills]

Here is the finished rod and handle.
Thanks to all who weighed in on my project. Especially Country Gent who turned me on to the Anchorlube which works like a charm on the stainless steel 304 springy tough to machine rod.

The handle spins like a top and is plenty strong enough to pound a TIGHT patch through a barrel to remove fouling and lead as needed. Field tested at the matches. Now I have made 8 cleaning rods and have people asking for them. They are Brass bodies and walnut grip in keeping with the BPCR nature of the era. 3/4" diameter by 3 inches long. Of course, stainless is not period correct. The rod diameter is 5/16th for 40 cal, 45 cal and up. I have made a few with 1/4" rod for the 38-50Rem-Hep and 35-40 Maynard shooters. I am looking for affordable 5mm SS rod to make the much smaller 22rf rods.

This design has no external fasteners and is a very sleek and clean rotating handle.