Finally got my casting pot cleaned.

[armyrat1970]

A tip I got from a member on Tuco's forum worked. It worked even better then I thought it would. He told me to get some hardwood charcoal and crush it down to bean sized and fill the pot. I went to WallyWorld this past Sunday and bought a bag of 100% wood charcoal. Crushed it up and filled the pot. I turned it up to max and let it burn. After I dumped the ash my pot was completly clean. I worked the spout with a dental pick after it got really hot and it cleaned out all of the zinc that was clogging the spout. Worked the valve rod in the cavity and cleaned it. Pot is completly clean and I am again able to cast. This took several hours but it saved my pot. Long story actually but it worked and I have a working pot again.

[Bret4207]

Makes sense. The charcoal would insulate the pot sides enough to let it get really hot and then would start to burn adding more heat. The carbon would act as a flux on the crap in the pot and carrying it off the walls. Good idea.

I use a 12 cup stainless steel measuring cup for a pot. Holds over 20lbs alloy. Since starting to use it my dross and fluxing have been cut by at least 50-60%. I think the steel and iron pots form their own oxides that contribute to the dross.

[motorcycle_dan]

I'm in the same boat with what I believe to be a zinc clogged Lee Pro 4 pot valve. My pot is about half full of lead since the last casting session. It is my intention to heat this above melting temp. Try to bottom pour it out. If that doesn't work, some heavy hot work gloves and dump it out the top. Would like to hear more of this charcoal cleaning method. I assume you got after the valve rod and nozzle after the pot had cooled? To be honest I've already bought a second pot and was just planning to toss the old one. If I can salvage it, Would like to do that.

[Bill*]

Might not get a reply, Original post is 4 years old and armyrat1970 hasn't posted here since July of 2010