How to: Model 94 chamber casting?

[Jtarm]

Anyone ever take a chamber casting on a Model 94 or similar lever action? Did you completely strip the receiver?

I ordered the Roto Metals chamber casting allow and am trying to figure out how to pour it into the chamber. I’m guessing I’ll need a narrow metal funnel.

The slugging method with a lead-filled case makes me tense, what with the steel rod up the bore and banging. Plus I can’t find the right sized rod for a 30-cal. 5/16 is too big and 1/4 is so narrow in cuts into the slug (and usually sticks to the rod) instead of driving into the throat.

[RickinTN]

Avoid all that and load and shoot the largest size bullet (Diameter) that will chamber in your rifle. Maybe the best default size would be .310".
Good Luck to you!
Rick

[Mk42gunner]

I use a bent tuna can for the melting pot/ funnel. Hold it with vise grips and heat gently with a propane torch (it doesn't take much heat).

With a 94, you should be able to do the chamber cast without stripping the action, if you are careful and don't pour to fast. I'd try it anyway.

The safest way is to completely strip the action and block off anything except the chamber. If you do overfill and get a mechanical lock, boiling water should be hot enough to soften the Cerrosafe by another name to remove it.

Robert

[TD1886]

I'm not going to try talk you into a pound cast as you have your mind set on the Cerrosafe. The proper metal rod isn't going to hurt your rifle one iota. It's not like you're pounding on it with a sledge hammer. You know you have a time period to measure the Cerrosafe after you cast it, that is if you're after measurements.

[Moleman-]

Your funnel doesn't have to be metal. The temp is more like boiling water and carboard from a tasty beverage box will work as a trough to guide the alloy into the chamber. I generally use an old one piece cleaning rod with a jag that has a short barb or even better the barb broken off and a tight fitting patch to block the bore deep enough I get a cood casting of the leade. I'd strip the action if there's a chance of a spill as it's much easier than trying to remove the cerrosafe when it gets everywhere. Modeling clay or plumbers putty can be used to block off any areas you don't want the cerrosafe getting into suck as the lug areas on ar15/10 rifles.

[JFE]

30/30’s generally have little to no throat. As mentioned try a few different size pills and see what chambers. In mine the max size was 0.310” and I couldn’t chamber a 0.311” diameter pill.

[Jtarm]

I'm not going to try talk you into a pound cast as you have your mind set on the Cerrosafe. The proper metal rod isn't going to hurt your rifle one iota. It's not like you're pounding on it with a sledge hammer. You know you have a time period to measure the Cerrosafe after you cast it, that is if you're after measurements.

I’m not averse to trying it, but what diameter rod do you use that doesn’t dig into the lead?

[Cast10]

I did on my new model 1894 Sporter in 38-55. What a mess! Used rotometals chamber casting alloy. What I learned, as soon as it ‘turns’, knock it out. That’s only a few minutes AT MOST. I will never do this again.

I left the rifle whole, as all you’re concerned in is the chamber. If it worked right, then it would have been an easy task; in and out.

I was able to soften it and remove it with lots of effort, and was able to gleam the rifling, which is what I really wanted.

My suggestion, SLUG THE BARREL if possible.

[TD1886]

I’m not averse to trying it, but what diameter rod do you use that doesn’t dig into the lead?

You use the largest diameter rod that will fit the bore. If you had a lathe you could make a short pin little under bore diameter if the rod is too small of a diameter. Some guys use a gas check on the end of the rod and that fits the bore and groove both. Clean your bore, groove, and chamber before doing all this. Another thing on the rod you round the corners of the driving end. This ensure that edge won't harm the barrel. Again some guys wrap electrician tape on the end of the rod. It all sounds complicated and is far from it.

[littlejack]

I slugged the bore on my Krag a couple weeks ago. I used a piece of 1018 .250 cr. I did wrap with electricians tape every 4". No problems. I did a pound cast years ago on a M/N I had. Same technique. Worked great. Doesn't hurt the bore at all.

[farmbif]

I agree with rick. as long a ive been casting 44 cal I lube size all of them at .311 and that works in all the 44 mags ive ever owned. there is one that I had problems with, a pretty rare marlin 94 sporter,
that had a jamming problem but it turned out to be a loose screw on the magazine tube. the loads chamber for me using starline brass.

[ascast]

Cerrosafe can be poured in with a funnel/dipper made of aluminum foil. Don't over fill. Most of that stuff melts at about 150 F give or take. You can probably use boiling water to melt out over flow. Remove all wood first. Remove cast promptly or it will get tight. Take all dimensions then. Basically follow the instructions. Be sure to get your plug deep enough to get all the info you want.

[Tom Myers]

The help file that comes with the Precision Cast Bullet Design ~ Ultimate (https://www.tmtpages.com/#ultimate) Software outlines the steps to obtain an impact impression of your chamber, throat and rifeling.

Chamber Impact Impression (https://www.tmtpages.com/draw/HelpfilesUlt-5/hs40.htm)

Hope this helps.