336 ejector - NOT the WWG "Bear Proof," just original?

[huntinlever]

I know it's tough to find parts since Ruger will apparently no longer supply them, but I'm looking for a standard 336 ejector (and a spare, I guess) for my son's 336, as well as my guide gun. His is loose and mine isn't, but a spare isn't a bad idea. Astounded to see all I'm finding are the WWG versions, for $45 shipped. That seems insane to me. It's a small piece of metal.

Anyone know of anywhere these can be found?

[sigep1764]

Check gunpartscorp

[Bigslug]

Prices for used and therefore unknown quality originals seem to be between $20 and $50 on ebay and they are demonstrably less beefy than the Bear Proofs.

Consider that we are in a period of the original company being gone; Remington going bust after trying to make them while suffering from Rectal/Cranial Inversion; and Ruger still being in "new" mode and only generating parts for the production line.

My advice would be to suck it up and go for the good stuff. Not much of a price difference really for a buy-once-and-forget item.

[sigep1764]

https://www.gunpartscorp.com/products/43090B

[sigep1764]

Get it quick, a lot of them are sold out

[huntinlever]

Prices for used and therefore unknown quality originals seem to be between $20 and $50 on ebay and they are demonstrably less beefy than the Bear Proofs.

Consider that we are in a period of the original company being gone; Remington going bust after trying to make them while suffering from Rectal/Cranial Inversion; and Ruger still being in "new" mode and only generating parts for the production line.

My advice would be to suck it up and go for the good stuff. Not much of a price difference really for a buy-once-and-forget item.

You're right. Good advice and perspective. Thanks.

[huntinlever]

Get it quick, a lot of them are sold out

Thanks, I did see that, but it's about the same as the WWG one - in fact, I think it is, right? But I also think this is slightly different in that it is not round, but oval. Not sure what years that would mean or even if it's the Ruger's mod, but to fit I'd need to grind it to a round post. I did end up buying one directly from WWG and they do offer both pre- and post-Ruger acquisition ejectors. I should have just gotten two, as I think Bigslug is right. I'll end up getting a second one for mine, and it seems to be a better one, one piece and stronger - my existing would would become the spare.

[missionary5155]

Reads like a good plan to these 50 year Marlin 336 owner.

[Shawlerbrook]

Midwest Gun Parts might be another option.

[Bigslug]

Pretty much all my experience wrenching on leverguns has been helping my Dad service his, since they're his passion while I'm pretty much all bolt actions, all the time. But my sense of "fault" with the Marlin ejector is that your #1 concern is not going to be breaking it, but rather loosing it when you've got the bolt out.

Taking a tip from the M16, the way to play smart here is to NOT to strip the gun in the field to the point of giving small parts a chance to disappear unless you really, REALLY need to, and have spares of those things on hand at the times when going back to civilization for them would be hunt-ending. Really a spare RIFLE is better for a time like that.

Being clean and oiled at the start of the season, and detail cleaned at the end of the season should keep you functional through 99% of the grime of the world you're likely to encounter on a hunting trip. Bore-snaking and oil applied through the open action with patches and Q-tips would be all I'd be inclined to do on a Marlin in camp unless the gun gave me a very good reason. In that case, it becomes a matter of spread out the paper towels, weigh down the corners against "parts theft by wind", and slow waaaaaaay down.

[farmbif]

there is a man who makes parts in batches that has a great reputation. I cant think of his name but he has a web site and prices are very fair. I think I found him when searching for parts for a Stevens visible loader. I want to say his name ids bob something but I'm not sure just cant remember.
also have you tried popperts in Pennsylvania
I'll do some looking and see if ii cant come up with the mans name
found it. it wasn't bob it is jack first
is this the one you need

https://jackfirstinc.com/marlin-1893-1936-36-36a-early-336-extractor-w-spring-438-36-16a?search=marlin%20extractor

[TNsailorman]

jack first is also out of stock.

[farmbif]

here is another good source

http://www.wisnersinc.com/model/center-fire-lever-1881/

the 36-15 fits quite a few models

[FergusonTO35]

Does the ejector on either rifle malfunction? I've been shooting Marlin levers for decades and the only one that ever gave my trouble was my very high mileage 1894. Turned out the spring was a hair too long, I trimmed it and it has been fine ever since. A word of warning, the WWG ejectors don't work in all rifles. I tried it before I fixed the original in my 1894 and the rifle did not like it at all.

[huntinlever]

Pretty much all my experience wrenching on leverguns has been helping my Dad service his, since they're his passion while I'm pretty much all bolt actions, all the time. But my sense of "fault" with the Marlin ejector is that your #1 concern is not going to be breaking it, but rather loosing it when you've got the bolt out.

Taking a tip from the M16, the way to play smart here is to NOT to strip the gun in the field to the point of giving small parts a chance to disappear unless you really, REALLY need to, and have spares of those things on hand at the times when going back to civilization for them would be hunt-ending. Really a spare RIFLE is better for a time like that.

Being clean and oiled at the start of the season, and detail cleaned at the end of the season should keep you functional through 99% of the grime of the world you're likely to encounter on a hunting trip. Bore-snaking and oil applied through the open action with patches and Q-tips would be all I'd be inclined to do on a Marlin in camp unless the gun gave me a very good reason. In that case, it becomes a matter of spread out the paper towels, weigh down the corners against "parts theft by wind", and slow waaaaaaay down.

Agreed - I only break it down to clean once home, at my bench. The issue is that for his (and Ferguson, this answers your post as well - thanks), is that it is actually loose, meaning, the spring itself yaws from side to side and it's only a matter of time before it breaks. Ironically mine, seeing longstanding, hard-pounding 45-70 service, is perfectly fine. So I have to replace his but mine would only be a spare in the event it breaks.

[huntinlever]

Does the ejector on either rifle malfunction? I've been shooting Marlin levers for decades and the only one that ever gave my trouble was my very high mileage 1894. Turned out the spring was a hair too long, I trimmed it and it has been fine ever since. A word of warning, the WWG ejectors don't work in all rifles. I tried it before I fixed the original in my 1894 and the rifle did not like it at all.

See above post re: this one is close to breaking. Thanks on the other info - the WWG actually arrives today for his and I'll report back on how it fits and works.

[huntinlever]

there is a man who makes parts in batches that has a great reputation. I cant think of his name but he has a web site and prices are very fair. I think I found him when searching for parts for a Stevens visible loader. I want to say his name ids bob something but I'm not sure just cant remember.
also have you tried popperts in Pennsylvania
I'll do some looking and see if ii cant come up with the mans name
found it. it wasn't bob it is jack first
is this the one you need

https://jackfirstinc.com/marlin-1893-1936-36-36a-early-336-extractor-w-spring-438-36-16a?search=marlin%20extractor

Thanks, I'll keep it mind for future reference.

[huntinlever]

here is another good source

http://www.wisnersinc.com/model/center-fire-lever-1881/

the 36-15 fits quite a few models

Thanks. Looking at it, I think that one is for Marlin's much earlier than mine. Mine is a simple, small, round peg. I've seen the one you show and seem to recall it's for pretty early models.

[fordwannabe]

I have used the WWG bearproof on several rifles and have no complaints. I keep the original in my cheekpiece ammo pouch JUST IN CASE. I also keep small allen wrenches that fit hammer spur and scope rings in there.