Lubesizer mounting

[cabezaverde]

Other than presses, I like to have my other tools such as RCBS case primer, Lube sizers, etc be move able so that I can switch them out by c-clamping them to my bench.

I am wondering if anyone has a clever solution for my Lyman 4500. Seems that the wood I have the luber mounted to is a little weak after being clamped to the bench.

Anyone have another solution. I know I could use a piece of plate, but the bolts sticking up from the bottom don't make for a great c clamping situation.

[Pepe Ray]

Forget the C clamp.
Using either plate of 3/4" plywood, develop a bolt hole pattern suitable for all your bench mounted stuff. Using the pattern for uniformity, drill thru the plates/plywood and the bench. Use "T" nuts in the bottom of the "properly countersunk" holes and securely attache anything mounted on the plate by machine screw (Hex head+speed wrench=fast+secure).
What I like about the plywood option is that it can be countersunk so no protrusions above the surface. Using a plate however, allows the easy addition of a heater.
Pepe Ray

[454PB]

I have a piece of 3/8" steel plate lag bolted to the bench top. It's 6" wide and 2' long, and drilled/tapped with the pattern of every reloading tool I own. The plate itself can be removed in about 30 seconds if desired.

[HeavyMetal]

I like to mount things the same way, with c clamps.

Bolts are a pain sticking through what ever you use as a mounting platform.

Then I started drilling and tapping Aluminum plate. Currently have my number two Star mounted on a one inch thick piece of Aluminum 4 inches wide and a foot or so long. with the bolts flush with the bottom I get plenty of hold and still get a flush mount when needed!

Go to your local scrap yard and root around in the "scrap" aluminum bin, flat stock not round stock, and you might be surprised at what you find!

[jcwit]

Countersink the bolt heads on the bottom, use carriage bolts. You will only need maybe an 1/8th to 3/16 countersink. Nuts and washers and lock washers go in top. Been doing it this way for 40 years.

One thing to remember never ever mount 1/4 inch bolts in a 1/4 inch hole, or 3/8 bolts in a 3/8 inch hole, always drill 1/32 oversize for clearance hole.

[cajun shooter]

I have my Star mounted to a !/2 inch aluminum plate(travel iron rest) then that mounted to 2 pieces of treated 2x6. This allows me to move and mount to different areas and provides all the strength I need. The treated material is stronger than regular wood and will not soak up any spills.

[NoDakJak]

I screw or bolt my various case trimmers, luber/sizers, etc to short lengths of 2" X 4" that I then clamp in a vise that is mounted on the very end of my bench. The blocks have eyebolts screwed into the end that allows me to hang the item from hooks screwed into the overhead floor joists along the wall to keep them neatly stowed. I have removed all but three presses from my benches. I have a Lee Turret on one bench that is set up to do pistol and small rifle cartridges. On the main bench there is my old RCBS A2 for larger rifle sizing and case forming. At the other end is a Texan Turret that is used for miscellaneous duties such as lube/sizing with Lee Dies. It is also permanently set up with steel rather than carbide full length sizer dies for nickel plated 38 Spcl and 45 acp cases. Neil

[AZ Pete]

I have a 2x4 maple block, about 10 inches long. A Lyman 450 bolted to one end and a Lyman 45 on the other. The block is clamped into my bench vice for lubing, and taken out when I need the vice for something else.

[Echo]

I have screwed my Star to a 1x4 about 12" long (w/big, short, lag screws), and c-clamp it to the bench. Have never had a problem.
I just use c-clamps for my RCBS/Lachmiller lube/sizers. One on each side of the body hold it firmly to the bench. Samo with my RCBS automatic primer putter.

[04heritage]

My buddy has a peice of 1/2" plate that he has recessed into his bench. Then he drilled all the hole arrangements for his equipment and just switches it out when he wants. Very sturdy bench.

[TAWILDCATT]

you need to use elevator bolts on sliding mount.the wood is plywood 3/4 in

[TAWILDCATT]

the rest

[imashooter2]

Not mine, but a sweet set up.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v405/Rembrandt51/Firearms/loadbench4.jpg


More pics and the original post:
http://forums.1911forum.com/showpost.php?p=1933996&postcount=13

[kevin45acp]

I have a 2x4 maple block, about 10 inches long. A Lyman 450 bolted to one end and a Lyman 45 on the other. The block is clamped into my bench vice for lubing, and taken out when I need the vice for something else.

I do the same thing, only my block is Red Oak:mrgreen:

[Hipshot]

I use a 1x4" piece of Rock Maple that I got from an old miterbox and it is just wood screwed to it and held in place with C clamps.

Hip

[Char-Gar]

I mount each of my three Lyman 450s to a piece of pine 2 X 6 about a foot long. I use bolts to attatch the machine and drill holes in the bottom of the board to hold a washer and bolt head. I put a lock washer and nut on top. These are clamped to the loading bench top with C clamps and nothing moves. Works for me!

[mooman76]

Just another angle to your idea. I took off an the portable bench idea that Fankfort Arsenal sells and made one. I get some heavy threaded pipe, about 2'x2" and a couple donut shaped rings that the pipe could screw into. I then took a 2 pieces of 3/4"x1'x1' partical board and bolted a piece to that for a top and a couple round pieces 18" radius for the bottom. Then bolted my luber to one side and press to the other and now have a portable bench I can bring in the house when it's too hot for the garage.

[WHITETAIL]

I found that my 450 luber/ sizer worked best
bolted to a piece of 3/4 alum. aprox 4x6.
I threded the holes and bolted it down.
The alum. plate is now permanent, and I
only use clams to hold it down.
So far it has lasted over 10 years.:brokenima

[CastorRiver]

I tried clams to hold my lube sizer but after a while the smell got to me and they would no longer hold the machine in plaice. Then, just for the halibut, I got my buddy Jack Salmon to install some jumbo shrimp. My cod, what a stench! The shrimp held for a while, and then the bass of the lubrisizer got loose and floundered around, mashing my fingerlings. As my friend Cisco used to say, "No es bonito!". By this time I was way behind on my plan to size some boolits for my Marlin.

I went out on the porch and Crawdaddy Lester was out there in his rocker, drooling and cackling. I told him my problem and he said "Somethin' is fishy, Swordfish (he calls me Swordfish 'cause he cain't remember my name). Crawdaddy told me to go to Harbor Freight and buy a cheap woodworker's vise, and mount it flush with top of my reloading bench. Then I made bases for my lube sizer, powder measure, case trimmer and other gear from scrap lumber and now I can just loosen the vise to change tools.

Just an idee in case you're still casting about trying to hook one.

(Many thanks to the poster. I was having a lousy morning and the clams just made my day). :mrgreen:

[rick/pa]

Sounds like a bunch of bullshark to me. :shock:

[Gee_Wizz01]

I use the same method with Tee-nuts as Pepe Ray described. I have my reloading presses mounted to 2X8's and then use 3/8" bolts to mount the mounting board to my bench. I have my sizer mounted to piece 3/4" counter top, the laminate on top makes it easy to clean up excess lube. I am looking for piece of aluminum plate to mount the sizer so I can attach my heater to it. This system works great, especially if you have limited work space.

G