Air Conditioner

[blackthorn]

The area where I live is classed as semi-desert. I have a small 12x16 fully insulated and wired shed that I use as a reloading room. Due to todays elevated temperatures I would like to get some kind of a small AC unit. I do not want to have to put any holes in the wall or have to change a window to vent one. My concern is that the ones I look at on line use water/evaporation to cool the room. I do not want to chance introducing moisture into my loading area and have to deal with rust issues in there. I also do not want to have to put out big bucks to get what I want. Any ideas???

[ohen cepel]

Hard to say without seeing your set up but I would think there is a window unit which would work for you. That is also the way I would go if possible as cheap to replace it as needed and remove it when not needed. May be smaller than the window, but you can fill that in. I have buddies who buy a few each year when Walmart closes their AC's out as they know they will want them for their sheds or cabins the next year.

The portable units which sit inside the space could also work and are more friendly to odd window sizes but take up room inside and I have been less than happy with in the long run.

[country gent]

I looked into several several different things when I did my shop. I finally settled on a mini split that provides both heat and air. There are 2 lines that go thru the wall to the unit from the cassette. The cassette mounts on a wall or ceiling. The actual condenser is mounted outside. One thing to keep in your thoughts is all inside the condensate water has to be dealt with.

My condenser is in the garage part of the building with a pan and drain line running out. In the winter the radiant heat from the sun on the metal building helps a lot with the heating, and in the summer it shades the unit for cooling. Another plus is the unit is inside out of the blowing sand and crud.

[imashooter2]

We put a ductless split into our living room when there weren’t any other attractive options. They are wonderful things, but not what I’d call low cost.

You only need 5,000 btu for that small room. It’s going to be hard to beat a window box for cost and ease of installation. Many options under $200.

[MarkP]

Walmart has portable AC units -- they use a flexible duct to exhaust the heat. The 6,000 BTU is listed at $209.

[35isit]

Walmart has portable AC units -- they use a flexible duct to exhaust the heat. The 6,000 BTU is listed at $209.
I use one of this type in my UNinsulated reloading shed. Because it uses a remote to operate, I installed mine under my bench. I run my condensate hose into a cup.

[45DUDE]

My reload room is 20x13. I use a 10000 110volt. It puts out about 3 1/2 gallons of condensation every 24 hours. One too small runs all the time. I leave mine on 75 degrees all Summer on energy saver.

[Tall]

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Toshiba-8-000-BTU-115-Volt-Smart-Wi-Fi-Touch-Control-Window-Air-Conditioner-with-Remote-and-ENERGY-STAR-in-White-RAC-WK0812ESCWR/311290366

[David2011]

Blachthorn, we have one of those portable air conditioners. They have to be vented to the outside or the heat they remove is just returned to the room in which they’re running. Ours was purchased to keep a bedroom cool during the power outage after a hurricane. It was inadequate. Since then I’ve also tried to cool a well insulated all seasons room. It has double pane windows, insulated doors and is very tight. It kept the room at 82-85 degrees F with proper venting. It was expensive and disappointing.

In the area where I live (Houston) there are ads in some of the social media markets for inexpensive mini-splits. I had a Mitsubishi installed in that all seasons room, my workshop and reloading room with 3 separate head units. Expensive but good. Reverse cycle heat pumps perform poorly below 40 degrees F. I have to use a space heater in the shop and all seasons room on the rare days that it’s cold here. I know that you don’t want to install a window unit in the wall but that plus one of the oil filled electric radiator heaters would serve you very well.

Next up in cost would be a mini-split that has electric heating strips. No idea how expensive or how available they might be. A space heater as mentioned above would be a good alternative to the mini-split with heating strips.

[Cast10]

I have a portable unit as described above. I bet you don’t have to drain it but every few weeks.

[MrWolf]

Mini splits are not hard to install yourself. I put two in NJ and two in Florida. They have gone up in price just like everything else.

[Bmi48219]

All A/C units produce condensation. I’d go with a window unit. Cheaper, easier to replace and the condensation drains outside.

[gwpercle]

I use one of this type in my UNinsulated reloading shed. Because it uses a remote to operate, I installed mine under my bench. I run my condensate hose into a cup.

Mine fills up a 5-Gallon bucket over night .
The portable units must have a flexible duct , vented to outside air and a drain ...
mine will fill a bucket (5-gallon) in 8 hours ...
My advice is a Window Unit ... a cooling only unit isn't very expensive and the back of the unit , poking outside , is the exhaust and the drain line is easy .
Installing one in a window is also easy .
Easy and cheap will be a window unit ... if you got a window in the right place !
A 5,000 or 6,000 btu unit will cool a 200 sq. ft. room with 8' ceiling ... if buying new, see what btu's the maker says to use ... and get the next larger size ... I would go with a 7,000 btu unit ... bigger is better in extreme heat .
Check your window opening size too .
Gary

[45_Colt]

One thing that can really help with a small A/C unit is a air duct. This is for the outside condenser portion. Notice how an A/C unit draws regular air into the back, and expels hot air from the sides.

What can happen is that a circular pattern can be set up. IOW, the A/C air intake is fed from the air outlet. So the condenser/compressor temperature increases and the efficiency drops. It just keeps cycling the same 'ole hot air.

A 3 - 4' duct on the back of the A/C unit, on the intake side, isolates the outgoing hot air from the intake.

I've used wood to build a square duct. And even two plastic buckets for the same. It can make a huge difference is how well and how inexpensively an A/C unit can operate.

The plastic bucket setup was easy to build. Cut the bottoms out with a utility knife. Drill some holes around the end edges, and tie-wrap them together. If the A/C unit is low enough can use bricks, stones or such to align the duct with the back of the A/C unit.

Otherwise some wire (copper or stainless works well), can be used to hang the unit on the back.

45_Colt

[M-Tecs]

The area where I live is classed as semi-desert. I have a small 12x16 fully insulated and wired shed that I use as a reloading room. Due to todays elevated temperatures I would like to get some kind of a small AC unit. I do not want to have to put any holes in the wall or have to change a window to vent one. My concern is that the ones I look at on line use water/evaporation to cool the room. I do not want to chance introducing moisture into my loading area and have to deal with rust issues in there. I also do not want to have to put out big bucks to get what I want. Any ideas???

If you are referring to swamp type coolers they are rust monsters. You would be better served by standard type AC units.

https://www.realtor.com/advice/home-improvement/what-is-a-swamp-cooler/

[Bmi48219]

OP is trying to cool 1,600 cu ft. of fully insulated space. No mention of heating, lives in BC so I’m guessing he has that covered. We’re it me I’d look at a window A/C unit, maybe even cut and frame a dedicated opening for it near the ceiling. A light luan cover box for the winter months would be good. Some stone or river rock underneath to catch and dissipate the condensate drainage. And most importantly, a way to direct the cool air so it doesn’t play heck with a powder scale.

[Tall]

A window unit is what you need. Have a hole cut in the wall and move on.

[Txcowboy52]

I would highly recommend a mini split unit. We installed one at our lake house and it’s not much bigger than what your building is . Best thing we ever did prior to installing it we had a window unit. It could barely keep up and was noisy.

[dverna]

A shed used for reloading

$150 for a 5-6000 BTU window unit that will do the job or $1500 for a mini-split?

Seems like a simple choice to me.

[45DUDE]

All A/C units produce condensation. I’d go with a window unit. Cheaper, easier to replace and the condensation drains outside.

I have had a lot of window units and still do and all drip a lot-- except the one on the north side of the house. I haven't seen it drip since new <7 years>It's a 12000 btu and works great. I don't understand the no drip but I like it. It gets cold quicker than the rest.

[Tall]

A shed used for reloading

$150 for a 5-6000 BTU window unit that will do the job or $1500 for a mini-split?

Seems like a simple choice to me.

I think to get a decent one you are looking at $300 and the hole for a window unit maybe $200 for labor and materials. A pittance compared to what a mini split would cost.

[Txcowboy52]

My mini split didn’t cost anywhere near $1500.00 and I haven’t seen any new window units for $150.00 in quite awhile.

[imashooter2]

$148 at Walmart for a 5,000 btu window box. Probably not top of the line, but it’s a shed not his dining room.

You can certainly get a ductless split for under $1,000 and if you are handy you can install it yourself, but it isn’t the same level of effort as putting a box in a window and running screws into the frame to hold the side slides. If you need to pay for installation… well that changes the equation dramatically.

[dverna]

$148 at Walmart for a 5,000 btu window box. Probably not top of the line, but it’s a shed not his dining room.

You can certainly get a ductless split for under $1,000 and if you are handy you can install it yourself, but it isn’t the same level of effort as putting a box in a window and running screws into the frame to hold the side slides. If you need to pay for installation… well that changes the equation dramatically.

Exactly. Plus try to find someone to do the mini-split install.

Three years ago, I added an LG 12,000 BTU window unit to our bedroom. Got it for $400 and had it installed in a couple of hours. I wanted a mini-split but IIRC, with the install, it was close to $2000.

My neighbor buys the cheapest ($140-160) window units for the one room 16x16 cabin he lives in year-round. They last 4-6 years.

[farmbif]

yup, its hot, got new super efficient 8000 btu at Best Buy for 300 at beginning of month. now I realize I need one twice as big. this thing has been running full time and it is still 87 inside. but all in all it sure is better than 110 or115. just a little reminded to be grateful for what I do have, I dont have to live in a cardboard box under the freeway or are they all now toll roads

[Idz]

Noise is the biggest reason to get a mini split. Good inside units are almost silent and the outside condenser is quiet too. Most of the newer window units recycle the condensate by splashing it onto the condenser so in dryer climates there is no water dripping out.

[jsizemore]

Noise is the biggest reason to get a mini split. Good inside units are almost silent and the outside condenser is quiet too. Most of the newer window units recycle the condensate by splashing it onto the condenser so in dryer climates there is no water dripping out.

And improves the condensing ability of the unit.

[45_Colt]

The noise factor is big. I use window A/C units but the noise can be bad. Even with the fan on low.

Don't forget that an air duct the for the condenser can/will make a big difference.

45_Colt

[blackthorn]

Thank you to all who replied. Even in the high temperature days my well insulated shed only gets to about 85F and that only happens a few times a year. At this point I think I am going to just put up with the few times it gets overly hot and limit my work in there to early mornings and evenings after the sun drops behind the mountain. In winter I use an oil filled radiant heater set on about the half way mark, so no worries there.

[jsizemore]

Your only concern would be possible high humidity in the space. A dehumidifier should take care of that.

[Tall]

I have a 1500 square foot shop and use two 25K window units. Typically, I only use one of them on 100 degree days. One has heat as well. They don't make any noticeable noise. Both are made by GE. They run on 250 VAC.

[MarkP]

Since you live in an area that is considered semi desert your cooling load will be much lower than some other members experience and a small unit should be fine.

Cooling load is comprised of two components sensible load and latent load. Latent load contains the moisture and is the energy required to change the phase. Sensible load is the energy to change the temperature.

[MaryB]

Since you live in an area that is considered semi desert your cooling load will be much lower than some other members experience and a small unit should be fine.

Cooling load is comprised of two components sensible load and latent load. Latent load contains the moisture and is the energy required to change the phase. Sensible load is the energy to change the temperature.

My window unit is battling 82% humidity today... working over time!

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

The area where I live is classed as semi-desert. I have a small 12x16 fully insulated and wired shed that I use as a reloading room. Due to todays elevated temperatures I would like to get some kind of a small AC unit. I do not want to have to put any holes in the wall or have to change a window to vent one. My concern is that the ones I look at on line use water/evaporation to cool the room. I do not want to chance introducing moisture into my loading area and have to deal with rust issues in there. I also do not want to have to put out big bucks to get what I want. Any ideas???

I don't know if it's been mentioned?
But for a "12x16 fully insulated and wired shed" I would use a Vented portable air conditioner. typically they use less power and are quieter, but probably doesn't throw as much COLD air as a same size window unit. And are about the same price a window unit. They usually have a reservoir [like a dehumidifier] that needs to be emptied regularly...or piped out. Just roll it in the corner when not used. Also, a ceiling fan helps alot.

[gwpercle]

Thank you to all who replied. Even in the high temperature days my well insulated shed only gets to about 85F and that only happens a few times a year. At this point I think I am going to just put up with the few times it gets overly hot and limit my work in there to early mornings and evenings after the sun drops behind the mountain. In winter I use an oil filled radiant heater set on about the half way mark, so no worries there.

I'm in similar situation in Louisiana ( the Land of Heat , Humidity and Mosquitoes ), outbuilding w/ reloading bench & mounted presses - no insulation - no a/c - few spare electrical receptacles .
This worked for me ... Lee Hand Press Kit ... I started doing all my handgun and 30-30 rifle reloading inside my house at the kitchen table or computer table ( I took it to work and reloaded at my desk) where ther is heat in winter and cool in summer .
Big rifle resizing requires a bench mounted press ...just so much easier ... but after resizing ... bullet seating and crimping can be done with the hand press inside the cool house .
Put a Ram-Prime priming unit in the Hand Press and you have the best hand primer made !
This worked so well I bought a second , kept it at work until I retired , now I just use #2 for odd jobs and seating primers .
Another way to skin a cat ... and it has been working great for me .
Gary

[Jim22]

Window units are loud. If that's OK you can do it for $150. If you cab't stand the noise it will cost more.

Mini splits are surprisingly quiet. And, if you want, a mini split can heat in winter as well as cool in summer.

Jim

[David2011]

I don't know if it's been mentioned?
But for a "12x16 fully insulated and wired shed" I would use a Vented portable air conditioner. typically they use less power and are quieter, but probably doesn't throw as much COLD air as a same size window unit. And are about the same price a window unit. They usually have a reservoir [like a dehumidifier] that needs to be emptied regularly...or piped out. Just roll it in the corner when not used. Also, a ceiling fan helps alot.

It’s been mentioned. My experience with a vented portable is underwhelming. Dropped the room temperature all the way to 82-85 degrees when it was 95-98 outside. It was not inexpensive, either.

The Farce book marketplace has mini splits in the $365-$400 range installed in my area.

[Tall]

Window units are loud. If that's OK you can do it for $150. If you cab't stand the noise it will cost more.

Mini splits are surprisingly quiet. And, if you want, a mini split can heat in winter as well as cool in summer.

Jim


Mine are under 44 DB.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/LG-23-500-BTU-Dual-Inverter-Smart-Window-Air-Conditioner-Cools-1-440-Sq-Ft-with-Remote-Wi-Fi-Enabled-LW2422IVSM/318461627