1911 problem

[nueces5]

Good day. I have a problem that I can't find a solution to. The gun is a FM sistema colt 45 acp.
One day, I fired my gun without ammo in chamber and the firing pin got stuck half a centimeter outside, the firing pin stop fell to the ground since nothing was holding it.
A gunsmith told me it was due to the use of hot loads. Now load with 5 grains of 231 my hg 68 of 200 grains, which doesn't feel like a hot load to me.
I'm tempted to delicately run a round file into the exit hole of the firing pin, but I want to ask first.
Change spring and firing pin, without success.
Any ideas?

[metricmonkeywrench]

After changing out the firing pin/spring i would look to a dirty/out of tolerance firing pin bore. A dry fire should not cause this issue. Before going after the face of the slide with a file I would have all the measurements checked. Some of the components may not be within MilSpec tolerances or unique to the gun.

I would also look for another gunsmith... by my books a Lyman 452460 200g SWC has a range of 4 to 6 grains of 231, so no your not "hot"

[JimB..]

I’m with @metricmonkeywrench, but will add, cleannout the firing pin channel really well and use an extra power firing pin spring. I’d clean the actual firing pin hole with a pointed q-tip…no filing.

[contender1]

Take that gun apart, clean the firing pin channel thoroughly!!!!!!!
Clean the spring & pin as well.

THEN check to see if you still have the same problem.

[243winxb]

An inertia firing pin goes forward till it contacts something. The firing pin is just larger in diameter then the hole. Dont dry fire it, problem solved.

https://www.thehighroad.org/index.php?media/inertia-firing-pin.530/full

[Char-Gar]

Like other, I would suggest you start with a good cleaning of the firing pin, the firing pin channel and put in a fresh firing pin spring.

[243winxb]

OP said "Change spring and firing pin, without success." If both are new, the diameter of the hole may be undersize, to small. Or loaded with carbon?

Measure hole size with pin gauge or drill bit. Compare to firing pin diameter.

[Der Gebirgsjager]

Let me offer the following:

I own two Systima Colts. When I bought them I completely went through them and refinished them. I've never had any trouble with either. Very high quality pistols.

316088

As a young law enforcement officer, back at the end of the 1960s, I worked for an agency that allowed us to carry anything we desired off duty. I had other pistols, but fell in love with this Llama IX-A:

316089

I practiced with it as often as possible, but ammo was expensive and I bought what I could afford. At the time there was a lot of French surplus ammo on the market that came in boxes of 20 with a green label, loaded in the early '50s. It was accurate, and I shot several boxes without incident, but it seemed "hot". On one occasion, when picking up the brass, I noticed that almost all of the empties had pierced primers. You could see a hole from the firing pin that went all the way through the primer. I made the assumption that this box had been extra hot, and didn't think too much more about it. Cleaned the Llama, reloaded it, and put it in my shoulder holster.

I had a good friend who was an investigator in the District Attorney's Office with whom I visit whenever I had to go to court. I'd take two cups of coffee to his office and we'd kick back and talk about guns. He was the only guy whom I've ever actually known who was a bigger "gun nut" than I. Of course, he'd always ask, "What are you packing today?" So on this occasion I unloaded and handed him the Llama. He said, "Oh, I don't like that," and handed it back. I asked what he didn't like, and he locked back the slide and showed me the firing pin stuck out the face of the slide about 1/4th inch.

Suddenly I understood why the brass I had picked up had pierced primers. The thing about it was that the Llama had fed and fired flawlessly, and I theorized that the firing pin had protruded far enough to pierce the primer, but the recoil had pushed it back into it's channel again, allowing it to feed the next round. However, in displaying the pistol to my friend, I had removed the magazine, racked the slide, and dry fired the pistol at the ceiling before handing it to him. So the hammer had forced the firing pin out of the face of the slide where it had stuck. Racking the slide back and forth failed to retract the pin, so there it was with the top round in the magazine unable to feed-- certainly a potentially fatal situation. I immediately retired the pistol to my storage cabinet where it remained for about 10 years.

Then, in 1981 I had to opportunity to attend the Colorado School of Trades Gunsmithing School, where I met an instructor named Bob Penny, also a retired law enforcement officer. I had take a car load of guns with me to work on as projects at the school, and the Llama was among them. I showed it to Bob who examined it and advised much of what has been offered by other members, above. First was to thoroughly clean the firing pin channel (it was), to obtain a new firing pin spring (I did), and to take the firing pin to the buffing room and give it a mirror polish. Last was to insert a round needle file into the firing pin hole from the face. Just drop it in there, don't push it in. Slowly rotate it a very few turns clockwise, just 3 or 4 complete turns. Do not push on it other than to just hold it in place, do not scrub it back and forth, just gently rotate it. Why? Because, if you think about it, these types of slide are bored out from the rear and burrs can remain on the inside of the hole where the firing pin extrudes when fired. The manufacturers may not bother to go back into the firing pin bore and remove the burrs, or perhaps do an inadequate job. The burr or burrs can capture the pin when it tries to return to the rear. The pistol may have functioned flawlessly for many rounds, but eventually as things wear a little (the hole, the pin, the spring) the burr can bend inward toward the hole as the relationships change a bit.

I followed his advice, and the pistol has worked perfectly ever since. I have successfully used this system twice more on other pistols with success, and recommended it to others for whom it has worked.

DG

[Castaway]

If you measured 0.5 cm, the equivalent of 0.197”, your firing pin is protruding too far. Brownells gives guidance for handguns and rifles to be somewhere between 0.05” to 0.06”. With that in mind, your firing pin may be the right length but either the breech face channel too large or firing pin too narrow. That combined with a weak firing pin spring is allowing the pin to go forward to the point it jams itself in the channel. The length of the protrusion is such that a pierced primer is a distinct possibility.

[Gtek]

As far as fit is concerned in my 1911's in the ID/OD department a pin gauge set and a micrometer is best. Usually want to see somewhere between .001" to .003" in clearance and tight side better if nice clean hole. If that is in the ballpark then it is on to the protrusion check (chamfering pin hole on slide face is a no-no). There was a major manufacturer who seemed to love shipping out new units with sloppy pins. We made brass pilots to hold bits to next size over pin bore for correct fit of the larger pin. I would bet it is pretty close or good but a dry fire and a little sticky in there may have created your scenario. Clean, mic, pin gauge and probably move on with confidence. If the pin stop fell out check and see if any rotation can be found when assembled of extractor. An aftermarket oversized pin stop is not much money and a lot of work but well worth it if this piece is more than a sometimes plinker.

[nicholst55]

Good advice so far. Don't assume that your firing pin is not bent; check it, and replace it if it is. Some people think that the firing pin on a 1911 is a disassembly punch; they're not.

[nueces5]

well, i have taken your advice, cleaned and checked all of the above
I didn't find too much dirt, but now the firing pin is no longer outside when I fire empty.
I put a new primer on a brass and it fired up normally
but the mark on the primer is very light, I don't know if it's because it hits without force (very hard spring?) or because I used a brass without gunpowder and boolit316133

[TD1886]

well, i have taken your advice, cleaned and checked all of the above
I didn't find too much dirt, but now the firing pin is no longer outside when I fire empty.
I put a new primer on a brass and it fired up normally
but the mark on the primer is very light, I don't know if it's because it hits without force (very hard spring?) or because I used a brass without gunpowder and boolit316133

You added the new stronger firing pin????? That's a awful light hit.

[nueces5]

You added the new stronger firing pin????? That's a awful light hit.

yes!

[TD1886]

yes!

Did you put a new standard one or harder one?

[nueces5]

Did you put a new standard one or harder one?

one that they gave me, which is harder than the one I had
So I don't know what specs it has

[TD1886]

one that they gave me, which is harder than the one I had
So I don't know what specs it has

That's what I figured, I think you should have gotten a standard new one. Have you tried the old spring to see if it still does stick out again?

If, if I were using a 1911 for personal protection I wouldn't want that light as hit that yours has now. Have you tried the old spring and see what it does since you cleaned it?

[Gtek]

I think we are talking about the FP return spring. How old is that piece? What if for about sixteen bucks you picked up a new complete spring kit and get another main spring so you have a 16 and 18 pounder in hand. The FP is designed to be an inertia contact on primer, the hammer strut spring is involved with the force applied to pin, weak hammer strut with a strong FP spring makes for a possible weak hitter. New spring it up and start with the 18 pounder out front if 230 hardballing, if she does not eject clean put the 16 in.

[nueces5]

That's what I figured, I think you should have gotten a standard new one. Have you tried the old spring to see if it still does stick out again?

If, if I were using a 1911 for personal protection I wouldn't want that light as hit that yours has now. Have you tried the old spring and see what it does since you cleaned it?
The old spring doesn't work well, so I'm taking it out of play
For defense I have a glock on hand, which also needs a change of springs
I'm going to keep trying

[nueces5]

I think we are talking about the FP return spring. How old is that piece? What if for about sixteen bucks you picked up a new complete spring kit and get another main spring so you have a 16 and 18 pounder in hand. The FP is designed to be an inertia contact on primer, the hammer strut spring is involved with the force applied to pin, weak hammer strut with a strong FP spring makes for a possible weak hitter. New spring it up and start with the 18 pounder out front if 230 hardballing, if she does not eject clean put the 16 in.

my old gun deserves that purchase
What happens in Argentina is that it is difficult to get those things
we will have to delve into several LGS

[Gtek]

Did not know how far south that was and the possible difficulty in importing if there. I think those are the same springs that are used in some pressure washers, uuhhhmmm.

[TD1886]

The old spring doesn't work well, so I'm taking it out of play
For defense I have a glock on hand, which also needs a change of springs
I'm going to keep trying

For defense I don't want a striker fired gun!

[TD1886]

What I would do for a test is take that old spring and stretch it a wee bit and try a primer in an empty case like you have done and see if the dimple is deeper. If it is that'll tell you your new harder spring is too hard.

[nueces5]

316218

Well, apparently fixed.
new spring and cleaning
today I fired 9 remington RN and they all came out, perfectly marked with the firing pin

[243winxb]

316218

Well, apparently fixed.
new spring and cleaning
today I fired 9 remington RN and they all came out, perfectly marked with the firing pin

What "New Spring? Mainpring or Firing Pin Spring? Thank you.

https://www.gunpartscorp.com/gun-manufacturer/1911/us-1911/parts-list-1911-2

[DougGuy]

In a pre-series 80 1911 style pistol, there really isn't a stop per se to keep the firing pin from forward travel. The primer stops it in live fire, the firing pin spring coil binds and serves as a stop in dry fire.

Your old spring must have been short enough and weak enough that the firing pin protruded far enough that the tapered part of it got hung in the firing pin bore in the breech face.