S&W 65 is getting tired, what should I do?

[jdgabbard]

I've got an old Police Trade-in S&W 65 I've had for 20 years or so (FWPD stamped). Got it from a buddy of mine on trade for a Gen-2 Glock 17 I had bought for $100 back in in 2002. There is no telling how many rounds have gone down range out of this thing. But I can guarantee I've put at least 15,000, probably more like 20,000, through it myself - low end estimate. Most of my loads have been 158gr SWCs and 148gr WCs at 38spl velocities. I've fired maybe 500-1000 magnum loads out of it in total.

The revolver has a decent bur on the cylinder stop slots, probably from one of the former owners spinning the cylinder while closing it up. It came that way, but has still been quite usable to this day. The revolver also came with a decently worn firing pin hole on the frame. Again, nothing making the gun unusable, but it is an eye sore. The revolver has also developed a bit of endshake over the decades of service. Measured this with a feeler guage the other night, I measure the cylinder gap at 0.010", leading me to believe that it has seem quite a few magnum loads while in service.

Now the pros... The gun is still very accurate, with a smooth as glass barrel. Despite having a minor imperfection in the crown that almost looks like someone removed the end of one of the lands. The gun locks up tight enough, and doesn't appear to have any significant timing issues. The old sights leave something to be desired by today's standards. But it's still a good shooter. Though, it's not quite as pretty today as it once was.

With that said, I'm trying to figure out what I do with it now. Obviously I could always retire this one to the safe and buy a new one. But I also feel like the gun still has some life left in it. And I'm always cautious about the quality of modern S&W firearms. It wouldn't take but just a little elbow grease to shim the cylinder to alleviate the endshake problem. But then when looking at the cylinder stop slots, the firing pin hole, and the potential for future cracking of the forcing cone on this K-Frame with Magnum loads I'm curious if having any real work done to it would make any sense, given it's probably 40+ years old now. Not to mention, I'd probably have an easier time finding beach front property than I would have in finding a decent pistol smith in Oklahoma.

If this were you, what would you do? Put the 'ole girl out to pasture? Give her a tune up? Looking for suggestions if you haven't guessed....

EDIT: Added photos… It's a little dirty from the range this weekend. But should be good enough to tell it's condition.


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[HWooldridge]

Send it to a good 'smith and have it tuned. Super Vel used to fire over 100K test rounds through 44 mag S&W revolvers, to the point where the rear of the forcing cone was heavily eroded. Your 65 might be "middle aged" but it has a lot of life left.

[ShooterAZ]

If it were mine and if it still shoots really well, I would work on getting it "tuned up".

[georgerkahn]

I really feel for you vis your "dilemma". My #1 "worry/concern" is none other than SAFETY! Hence, if the revolver is still a safe revolver to shoot, the immediate need to have it worked on would seem not the highest priority. I'd check about with persons who have had their revolvers worked on, and at least get a starting point. In several of his books, John Taffen -- the revolver guru of gurus, imho :) -- lists recommended pistol smiths -- so you may, too, reference them. Regardless, as an added note, I would ONLY have the revolver shipped from a FFL to whomever you elect. Those extra dollars you'll spend doing this, again my thoughts, are relatively cheap insurance the arm will get there. Last year I sent a Ruger revolver out for a mod, and FFL fellow exacted $25.00 USD plus the actual shipping charge. I have zero regrets... the arm was shipped back to HIM, and I but needed pick it up.
Good luck!
geo

[Der Gebirgsjager]

I'd contact Smith & Wesson and see what a rebuild would cost.

DG

[jdgabbard]

HWooldridge, ShooterAZ, Der Gebirgsjager,

Sounds like S&W Service Center may be a viable solution. No clue what they'd charge, but I did just read a relatively recent post on another forum (2021ish) where they tuned up a 1950s Model 27 under warrant for the original owner. Obviously I'd have to pay for mine being at least the third owner, but that may not be too bad, as I read another post (https://thefiringline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=501601) where a rebuild and new finish was quoted at $220 back in 2012. I'm sure it's more than that today. But if just a tune up is in the $200 range it might be worth it. More than that it might not be worth it, as most 65s are going for about $500 on GB from what I can tell.

georgerkahn,

If I were shipping to someone it would likely be to a well established shop that I was familiar with. But yes, going through an FFL is always a safe bet on return.

[Kestrel4k]

Not seeing any pics - just sayin' ;-)

[jdgabbard]

Not seeing any pics - just sayin' ;-)

I can upload some when I get back to the house this evening.

[txbirdman]

You might contact S&W and find out if there are any factory trained S&W gunsmiths in your area. I have an old 10-5 that belonged to my father was in need of a “tune up”. I found such a smith locally. From what he said, the training program was quite rigorous.

[TNsailorman]

I have a N fraME .45ACP mODEL 22-4 that S&W did a action job on and it is ded smooth and has a really great trigger both in double action and single action. Guy called Vito did the work. It is a keeper for sure. james

[jdgabbard]

Edited the original post to include pictures for reference. It's still a good gun. It just has some miles on it, and is starting to show it's age. Biggest issue is probably the endshake, which can be remedied easily. But it does have a few other issues, such as the firing pin bushing, cylinder stop slots, slight imperfection in the crown.

[metricmonkeywrench]

What dash number is it? Any competent S&W trained smith should be able to tune it up easily enough. As is it should be good for plenty more rounds down range.

Of the things you mentioned do you know how your hammer nose or firing pin protrusion looks. I have the spec around here somewhere.

[jdgabbard]

What dash number is it? Any competent S&W trained smith should be able to tune it up easily enough. As is it should be good for plenty more rounds down range.

Of the things you mentioned do you know how your hammer nose or firing pin protrusion looks. I have the spec around here somewhere.

It is a 65-3 with a 4” barrel.

Concerning the firing pin, what do you mean? It has slight wear to the top of the hole vertically speaking. Like the pin has worn a little off the top of the bushing.


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[nicholst55]

If nothing else, you could go over to the S&W Forum and ask for a recommendation of who to send it to for a tune-up. And since UPS and FEDEX ship to all 48/50 states, who cares if there's a local guy or not? You really limit your possibilities by insisting on staying within your state.

[slughammer]

If the end shake is cured by a shim or by stretching the yoke, what would the cylinder gap be? The barrel may need to be set back too.

Keep in mind that guns varied within the tolerances when brand new. A little wear or break in could send a high tolerance gun out of spec. (Saying that maybe yours was a high tolerance gun to start with and it doesn't have that many miles on it).

I've got a 686 and the cylinder notches are peened harder than yours. Going along with that, the slot in the frame for the cylinder stop is also wallowed out a bit. That said, if it's not skipping or missing cylinders during fast double action shooting, then it's not wore out yet.

If I couldn't do it myself, I'd sent it to Mark Hartshorne at Pinnacle High Performance here in PA. (He knows what it takes to wear one all the way out, and he can make yours better than new.

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[M-Tecs]

It won't be covered as a warranty issue. You will be full price to the custom shop. Some have a good luck with the custom shop some not so much. Prices will be the same or higher than a good revolver smith. Chance are the work will not be to the same level as good revolver smith. I do my own work so it's not an issue for me. I did work at a Gunshop that sent stuff to the custom shop occasionally for customers that didn't want to deal with S&W directly. Results were mixed.

https://www.smith-wesson.com/customer-service/warranty

Smith & Wesson’s Lifetime Service Policy begins after the warranty period has expired. Smith & Wesson will repair, without charge, for the lifetime of the original owner, any Smith & Wesson handgun purchased on or after February 1, 1989, and any M&P15 series rifle, that is found to have a defect in material or workmanship. Eligibility for this Lifetime Service Policy requires returning the Product Registration Card within 30 days of purchase.

[Kestrel4k]

Thx for the pics; here's a pic of my pair of police-trade-in Model 64-5's from 1996.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/veyhdm9tbe0hmsl/IMG_6203.JPG?dl=0

One needed a timing job and my local gunsmith was able to take care of it.

Even though these sorts of revolvers are not particularly valuable, if it was me I would pay what it takes to get them as mechanically sound as possible.
They do have history, and S&W won't be making any more of these. Much more preferable to me than a 'comparable' new S&W revolver; JMO.

[metricmonkeywrench]

It is a 65-3 with a 4” barrel.

Concerning the firing pin, what do you mean? It has slight wear to the top of the hole vertically speaking. Like the pin has worn a little off the top of the bushing.


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Took a little to dig up your -3 should have the hammer nose (FP mounted on the hammer), there is a gauge that is easily home made the protrusion should be between .040 and .050 Takes a bit of finagling but with the cylinder open and the bolt held back a bit cycle the hammer through its stroke like a single fire but ride the hammer home with your thumb until it touches the frame and hold it there. if you let it pop back the flag safety will reset and you will have to do it again. Harder to explain than to actually do it. see attached for the tool and measurements. Your top wear on the blast plate may be from a bent firing pin, are your strikes centered on the primers? You would be able to see this interfearance/contact with the hammer nose while its protruding thru the frame

the later models have an actual firing pin floating in the frame that can be replaced a bit more easily. the difference is easy to spot the firing pin type has nothing on the hammer

Hope this helps

315884

[VariableRecall]

I'd highly recommend taking it to a competent gunsmith to get a thorough inspection and a clean bill of health. At least they could ensure that there is nothing that could put you or other users of the revolver in danger.
From the looks of things, it's certainly well worn and definitely a bit abused, but it would be best to take the time to hunt down an expert and get their opinion on the matter, as well as the potential to have the issues fixed by the same expert as well.

[deltaenterprizes]

Contact the Cylinder and Slide Shop if they are still in business.

[badwolf]

I used shipmygun.com to send a handgun from pa to California for $35

[FergusonTO35]

I've had excellent luck with Williams Gunsight in Michigan, far as I know they work on all guns.

[Bigslug]

The gun is in time, accurate, and the only functional issue seems to be endshake, which can be cured with the purchase of a couple of Power Custom's shim packs.

And when done, it's a fixed sight 4" Smith & Wesson .357 made of impervious stainless steel that just happens to be slightly ugly. Seems like a perfect hard-use field gun to me.

[Texas by God]

Well, I have just the pasture that you can put it out to……Sounds broken in to me.[emoji3]


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[Kraschenbirn]

Cylinder and Slide was still in business around this time last year...they did a front sight replacement on my early (1971) Series 70 Gold Cup and work was as good as ever.

Also, you might try Tom Kilhofer at TK Custom in Thomasboro, IL. In the past, Tom's done 3 or 4 S&Ws for me but I don't know if he's still taking repair work in addition to custom jobs but it might be worth a phone call. (217) 643-2002

Bill

[rintinglen]

I strongly suspect that by the time your end shake problem is corrected you'll be looking at a barrel-cylinder gap of .012 or greater. You are already at the top end, IIRC .010 is the max allowable field gap. I would expect the barrel will have to be set back as well. Typically, the barrel is removed, the barrel seat is turned down about 20 thousands, the barrel is reinstalled and then the forcing cone is trimmed until you have .003-.005 clearance, the forcing cone is recut, and Bob's your uncle. You could do it yourself, but by the time you buy the tools to do it right, you'd have spent more than the cost of a good repair by gunsmith.

[HP9MM]

C&S still in business. Did a great job of replacing the cam bar in my Browning Hi-Power.

[Jtarm]

If it’s FWPD-marked it needs to come home to Cowtown, where I’ll take loving care of it:-)

If you decide to rejuvenate, I’d say it’s an excellent candidate for Fink’s Gunsmithing’s accuracy & durability package.

David Fink is (I think), the official armorer at Gunsite, or at least that’s where his shop is.

Per a recent invoice, the package includes fixing end-shake, setting the barrel back and resetting B/C gap, and recutting the forcing cone and crown.

He did the work on my 24-3 and it’s like a new gun. It’s had end-shake problems for years and the BC gap was up to .011 from all the shims (and it still had end-shake!)

Now the end-shake is gone and the BC gap is .006. I would have preferred a bit tighter, but he said .006 is spec.

Be forewarned: he is not cheap and like all good smiths,is backed up. It was months before I got my gun back, but I had some other custom work done too. Also it had been to local smiths twice for the end shake and it just kept coming back.

Buy once, cry once. It took a lot of years for that to sink in.

IMO, if you like your gun and it’s a proven performer, better to have it made (almost) new by a top gun smith than roll the dice on another used one.

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