223 brass STUCK CASE - HELP!

[BNE]

So I did it again.... I didn't use enough case lube and now I have a PRIMED brass stuck in the resizing die.

I was making 223 / 556 blanks and after I start the crimp I run the cases back though the sizing die (Without the primer remover) to make sure I didn't bell the case. It stuck and the rim ripped off. I have it soaking in Bens Red, but no luck so far.

Any suggestions?

(I had this happen before, and even with the stuck case remover tool, I ended up buying a new die.)

[MarkP]

What brand of die to you have? On some you can loosen the decapping rod nut and tap the rod downward with a small hammer; the decapping rod will push the case out. This will work on Hornady new dimension and Lee dies. Do this with the die still in the press. Pacific and RCBS dies the decapping rod is pressed into a blind hole and will not work.


you can also drill and tap the head of the case; use a socket or a small tube that mates up with the end of the die but is the ID is larger than the head of the case, next place a washer on top of the socket and screw a bolt into the tapped case and tighten the bolt, when the bolt head contacts the washer it will pull the case out as you tighten the bolt. Like a pulley puller.

[BLAHUT]

Find a 3/8" tap ( if I remember size correctly ) and gently insert it into the case ( brass shell ) body, and slowly turn.
The tap will grab the brass shell and come out. Take care not to hit the die body with the tap.... No 3/8"is for 308, you will need to size the tap to the case ?

[garandsrus]

Can you put the decapping stem into the die from the top? If you can, just push the primer out and then remove as normal by drilling and tapping the case head. If you can’t get a decapping stem in, you probably need to set off the primer and then proceed as normal. The easiest way to set it off is with a torch. Heat it for a second or two and it will ignite. Make sure you have safety glasses and ear plugs in. It will be loud. Since the top of the die is open, no pressure will build up.

[Hannibal]

I'd toss the die, buy another and either switch case lubes or alter my case lubing practices.

Sometimes we don't learn the first time.

[Texas by God]

So- it’s a loaded blank in the die and the decapping stem isn’t in the die, correct?
If the neck isn’t crimped shut, perhaps dig the wadding/powder out with a dental pick then punch the case out with the die screwed into the press.
Perhaps?


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[deces]

If it's a Lee die, luckily you'll be able to beat it out with a punch from Harbor Freight.
315700

[TNsailorman]

With a loaded case you are not going to be able to drill and tap until you can get the case empty of bullet, powder, and primer. Screw the die into the die against the die ring good and tight. Take a pair of long needle nosed pliers and see if you can get a good grip on the bullet to pull it. They might or might not hold but give it a try. If you can remove the bullet, you can take the die out of the press and dump the powder. Now you are ready to remove the primer. either insert the depriming unit back into the die and use it or use a little Lee depriming punch (but use real light taps to remove the primer). NOW you are ready to remove the case by drilling and tapping. I would recommend buying an RCBS stuck case remover to keep on hand. After I stuck my first case many years ago(no primer or powder or bullet) a friend of mine had a stuck case remover and did the removal for me in about 10 minutes from start to finish. I went home and ordered one by mail and have never looked back. I have only used it about 2 times since I bought it but it is a die saver. my experience anyway, james

OK, I missed the blank part. So the reoval of the wadding and powder will come first and then the rest of the post will follow. james

[dverna]

If you try to tap the primer out use a face shield if you have one or safety glasses. If you cannot tap the primer out, find a way to set if off safely. There is no other way to deactivate a primer I am aware of.

Once the primer is out, it a stuck case remover has always worked for me.

[JoeJames]

I've been reloading around 40 years. Two years ago had my first stuck case - oddly enough it was also a 223/5.56 case. I tried everything to remove it, but it was like it was plumb welded into the die. Finally gave up and got a set of Lee 223 SB dies. Talked to a buddy about it, and he said: "really, first time to get a 223 case stuck? I've gone through two or three sets of 223 dies so far."

[jmorris]

I haven’t ever stuck a primed and charged case in a size die. If you ignite the charge trying to get it out, it will probably remove itself but your going to want a lot more than a face shield to keep from getting hurt.

I am old enough now I would toss it and start over but in the old days I would have wasted more time than it’s worth and accepted much more risk…

[BLAHUT]

If you try to tap the primer out use a face shield if you have one or safety glasses. If you cannot tap the primer out, find a way to set if off safely. There is no other way to deactivate a primer I am aware of.

Once the primer is out, it a stuck case remover has always worked for me.

[ There is no other way to deactivate a primer I am aware of. ] Some oil - pored, inside of the case will kill the primer .

[Dusty Bannister]

Maybe too late to try this but will make the suggestion anyway. Often times freezing will shrink the die and then warming will allow the die to expand just a little. Sounds like you have a bigger problem though. Blow out as much of the solvent as you can. Warm it gently to help the remaining solvent evaporate and then drop the whole thing into warm water. After it has had time to displace as much of the air between the die and the case, dump the water out and set it case mouth down in a freezer. Maybe, enough water will work into the space between the case and the die and freezing will cause the brass to be sized a little smaller. Probably will need to do this a few times but no heat, no flying primer cups, and it is only wasted time.

After a little more consideration, maybe just freeze then drop in hot water, then freeze again to see if that might help suck the water into any space between the die and brass. Cycle through a few times at least before trying to push the case out.

[cwlongshot]

Darned 223/556 and I feel its THE MOST STUCK caliber made!

I have stuck a couple. My buddy seems ta stick 5/6 a year! He always has me remove them for him. RCBS stuck Case tool has never failed. But its been close.

Many are lube problems but I have stuck one with Imperial and I KNOW it was lubed. So it was probably quite swelled. Or steel. Steel cases have been colored to mimic brass.

I have yet to have to toss a die but some are easier to fix then others.

CW

[WRideout]

If you can get the entire bottom off the case, it will eliminate the primer, and allow the powder charge to fall out. I once had a 30-06 case like that (no case head) so I filled it with molten lead, let it harden, and now I had a solid base to hammer the case out with a punch. Desperate times, desperate measures.

Wayne

[gumbo333]

As I understand the problem, there is no powder in the case??? If not simply put the die with stuck cartridge in a vise pointing away and set off the primer with a hammer and punch/ nail. It’s not a big bang. Then use your stuck case remover tool, or make as I did years and years ago, with your die in the vise. Should pop out. Use or get some Imperial sizing wax and use it. 223 does seem to be the worst. I’ve only stuck a couple but never needed to toss the dies. Clean them once in a while. Good luck.

[txbirdman]

However you set off that primer (I’d use a torch) don’t have anything you value behind the head of the case. That primer will come out with some substantial force. Years ago I imbedded one in my hand that way.

[dillonhelp]

Will the bullet seating stem from the seat die thread into the top of the size die? If the thread is the same, this might push the case out of the die.

[BNE]

Guys -Thank you for all the input.

To Clarify:

It's a Hornady Sizing die.

It is Primed, but I was able to remove the powder. (It was not fully crimped yet.)

I have access to a huge selection of gage pins at work. I was able to fit one about 0.18" into the die and into the brass. I turned the die upside down and screwed it into the press. I was then able to pull back on my press handle and put direct pressure onto the gage pin and it was pushing on the bottom of the brass. Still will not budge....While Jmorris is probably correct - I should toss it, but I consider this type of frustration part of the fun. (Maybe I'm sick that way, but all of you jumped in to help!!)

I think I will pop the primer (Properly safe guarded. I like my ears, eyes and fingers). Then I will take to work where we have a huge arbor press.

I like the freezing idea.

I have the RCBS stuck case tool removal kit, if the above does not work. I was not able to make that work last time. More to come.....

[Sam Sackett]

OK. Now you have the powder out. Can you install the die in a strong single stage press? If so, get a brass rod that will for down inside the die that will bottom out inside the bottom of the casing. Give it a couple of good whacks with a hammer. Should drive the case out if it will ever come out.

You might want to fill the casing/die with penetrating oil and leave it overnight to soak.

Worth a try….

Sam Sackett

[John Guedry]

I made my own stuck case tool. (I'm cheap) The only times I've had to use was for .223 brass. I use Imperial wax. Probably I did something stupid.

[popper]

Freezing probably won't work - didn't for me. I just got one stuck in Lee die -- remove the stem and add kroll, wait a day and punch it out. Yup, primed case. Nothing kills a primer!! You can carefully punch it out.

[WRideout]

However you set off that primer (I’d use a torch) don’t have anything you value behind the head of the case. That primer will come out with some substantial force. Years ago I imbedded one in my hand that way.

I broke a garage window doing that. A primer cup can become a projectile with some force.

Wayne

[BNE]

I got it out today. Work has a big arbor press. The ram on that thing is 3X3" square bar of steal that is 3 feet tall. A little push on the gage pin I had in the brass and out it popped. I tried that on my Rock Chucker and got no where.

Thanks for all the ideas. Nothing beats significant mechanical advantage.

BNE

[Three44s]

Thanks for putting closure on your dilemma. So many folks on forums get advice but do not finnish the story ..... no closure!

What might make sense is to inspect for additional stress (scoring) on the now unstuck casing. My guess would be down near the web.

As many have reported about a trend that 223 brass is one of the worst culprits for stuck cases. I use some pretty good lube and yet when I am going through FL sizing a bunch of used cases fired elsewhere, I experience some pretty hard sizing every now and then. My theory is that there is a pretty wide range of chamber tolerances and in the instance of brass that was fired in a full auto weapon we have our work cut out for us and those would be prime suspects for getting stuck.

My .02 worth

Three44s

[country gent]

freezing usually requires a few cycles freeze at night set in the sun during the day. After a few days try to remove when warm.

Sometimes soaking a few days in kroil shooters choice mixed 50/50 will loosen it. The kroil penetrates and lubes the shooters choice is a copper remover and will help break the bond

the bigger press works but use a dowel pin or other not a gauge pin.

There is always the puller. Drill the case head out tap to 1/4 28 insert set screw in and a short pipe or stack of washers a nut and start turning, on tight cases locktite the set screw into the case head the nut to screw all steel is strongest.

One of the reasons the 223 is prone to sticking is the straighter side walls once sized release isnt as quick as cases with more body taper

[uscra112]

@Three44s - something I discovered when swaging .223 brass down for making .25-20 and .22 Lovell was that different brands appeared to have the brass in the body at a different temper. And cases fired and FL sized more than once will be harder, regardless of headstamp. This may help explain your "hard sizing". Annealing the necks will have no effect on the body....or shouldn't.

[Three44s]

uscra112,

Good point. And since it is unwise to anneal low on the case, they are just going to continue to get harder with each firing/resizing.

Good thing I am a HOARDER! I have lots of 223

Best regards

Three44s

[uscra112]

So you can afford to simply pitch those that "size hard".

[gwpercle]

I've never stuck a case when using STP Oil Treatment as the case lube .
The stuff is thick and slick and slippery and messy as all get out .
You might get a dent ... but a thin film , applied with an ink pad saturated with STP will get the job done when all else fails .
Gary

[porthos]

probably should imperial sizing die wax next time

[Three44s]

So you can afford to simply pitch those that "size hard".

Theoretically, yes. In practice, not so much because once tou realize you have a hard to size case, you are sort of committed. I could save that brass and run them through my Small Base FL die, but is it with it?

Most of my loading for .223 is for bolt guns, some more for a couple of Contender barrels, but some is for the “evil rifles”.

So my protocol is to full length size all new to me .233 brass unless it is factory new. From then on the brass gets neck sized with a Lee Collet die. Interestingly my carbine barrel Contender accepts re-neck sized brass fired from either of my bolt guns and they seem to interchange between each other as well.

Three44s

[Hannibal]

Personally I use range brass for stuff where I think it's unlikely I'll be able to recover the brass. Hunting or shooting semi-autos in the field. For bench shooting with a bolt action or brass catcher then I use brass I've put more effort into and know at least bit about it's history.

I realize not everyone has the same budget to work with so this isn't meant to be critical.

[kerplode]

[ There is no other way to deactivate a primer I am aware of. ] Some oil - pored, inside of the case will kill the primer .

No, it most likely won't. Many years ago, as an experiment, I submerged a handful of 209 primers in WD40 for a week. 100% of them fired.

OP...Toss the die, buy a new one, and use more lube in the future. You're gonna hurt yourself screwing around with a stuck, charged, case. Trust me...Your eyes, fingers, etc are worth more than $50.

ETA: Just saw you got it out safely...Congrats! Use more lube.

[uscra112]

No, it most likely won't. Many years ago, as an experiment, I submerged a handful of 209 primers in WD40 for a week. 100% of them fired.
.

Water with some detergent should do it, until the priming compound dries out again. Possibly also rubbing alcohol. Would have to soak a long time since there is a protective disk of foil between compound and anvil.

[Jal5]

I’ve stuck 2 of 223 cases using a spray lanolin type lube. Once switching to imperial lube I never had one stick. I save that spray lube for other cases.


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[CaptREDD]

While at the LGS, sitting around talking, I wuz gifted a 223 sizing die with a stuck case...upon further looking I discovered
that the die wuz a Dillon carbide 223 rifle die...there were ViseGrip tracks all over the base end of the die...the stuck shell
wuz mangled baddly....I chucked up the die & faced the end of the case flat....drilled, the tapped 1/4-20....used a socket and washers and a 1/4-20 capscrew and withdrew the stuck case.....It took longer to write out this account than it did to xtract the stuck case and salvage a SPENDY die I got for free...and yes I have a metal lathe, taps and tap-drills.



REDD

[popper]

223 get stuck because it has a very thin rim.

[CaptREDD]

popper, 223 cases get stuck for a lack of case lube...



REDD

[David2011]

Don’t think I’ve ever stuck anything but .223. Don’t think it’s ever been with any lube other than the alcohol/lanolin types. In 100% of the instances it was unquestionably due to me not waiting long enough for the alcohol to evaporate. Imperial sizing lube prevents the problem but I was sizing a few thousand milsurp cases so lubing individually was out of the question. Even though I probably got 4 to 6 cases stuck I think the spray lube saved time overall. After once or twice using the case extractor is pretty fast.

For normal quantities of rifle cartridges I only use Imperial.

[uscra112]

Awfully difficult to get a complete uniform coating with spray lubes without wasting a lot of it to overspray. One small dry spot is all it takes. And as posted, if the carrier hasn't evaporated, it's not a lube yet.

I still proselytise the RCBS liquid. Drop a squirt into a large Ziploc baggie, add 100 or so cases, (more if 9mm, fewer if .30-06), close up and knead for a minute to distribute the lube. For less than a dozen cases, put a dab on your palm and roll the cases between your hands.

The RCBS lube is water-soluble, a rinse in hot water is all it takes to completely remove it.

Save the baggie. It'll lube another batch with just what's coated the inside. No waste.

Reloading since about 1996, I've never stuck a case using this method. Even used it for my brutal swaging of .223 brass to make .25-20 Stevens and .22 Lovell brass.

[jetinteriorguy]

I usually toss around 75 .223 cases at a time into a plastic container and give them 4 spritzes of the lanolin/alcohol lube, then wait until the alcohol evaporates off, then knead the cases with my hands to help distribute the lanolin around. I’d estimate I’ve used this method to resize at least 50,000 cases without getting a single one stuck. This is using a small base resizing die. This is a good way to keep your hands from getting dried out too, especially in the winter.