Ed’s Red Recipe Mod

[HWooldridge]

I’ve made a few small batches of basic “Ed’s Red” over the years, using only ATF and acetone, and that was primarily for ‘liquid wrench’ applications. I may have used it on firearms once or twice.

At any rate, it’s time to make up another bottle, and I was refreshing myself on an H&G link, which has other ingredients listed. I’m going to include mineral spirits this time, but see no need to also add kerosene - seems a bit redundant. I have some lanolin but was going to try some Ballistol, only because I have a mostly full can and it seems logical.

Has anyone played with the basic ingredients and can report better or worse results? Based on my personal experience, I believe the ATF and the acetone are the most important components for cleaning but we use mineral spirits at work and it does a great job, so maybe someone has some other observations to share.

TIA.

[Ford SD]

I do not add the Acetone, believe the Acetone is there for a plastic remover ( think shot gun )

also the Acetone is a paint remover so watch out when using it near (Plastic and Stock finishes)

So My mix is Varsol and Kerosene & Atf it does a good job for me :)

You could make up a big batch and put it in 2 bottles (Big and small) and add the Acetone to the small bottle

[uscra112]

Ed himself would probably not recommend omitting the kerosene. Has to do with polar vs. non-polar solvents, if I remember right.

[crandall crank]

I mix mine using equal part of ATF, mineral spirits and kerosene.

[15meter]

I've done quart of Kroil, quart of ATF and a quart of mineral spirits, no acetone because of the concern for stock finish. It's worked well for me. Need to mix up a fresh batch. Only wish I'd bought another gallon or two of Kroil when I could buy it for less than $20/gallon. It would have beaten inflation.

A little really does go a long way.

[HWooldridge]

I decided to do the following:

All measurements were 2 oz in a graduated cylinder.

Walmart generic automatic transmission fluid
Acetone
Ballistol
Turpentine
Mineral Spirits

I already had all of this stuff in my shop. I can add the kerosene later - I didn’t have any and wasn’t interested in going to Lowe’s. I know some folks don’t like turpentine but I always keep some around to thin linseed oil.

The Ballistol made it oilier than previous batches but the solution still cleans like crazy. I wiped down my 12 ga double and the bores shone like mirrors, after showing some gunk from previous sessions. My rifles must have already been pretty clean because those swabs came out with no stains.

PS: I store mine in an old, properly marked, glass whiskey bottle. I figure anything that keeps good scotch from evaporating too quickly will work for this stuff. I also mark the bottle on a new fill so I can watch for acetone loss.

[Shiloh]

Feel free to skip acetone. Kerosene is a major component. Don't skip it.
Shiloh

[schutzen-jager]

Feel free to skip acetone. Kerosene is a major component. Don't skip it.
Shiloh

totally agree - the acetone will destry most wood finishes + plastics - it's inclusion in the formula was to remove plastic wad residue from shotgun bores -

[WinchesterM1]

Wouldn’t the acetone also be good for removing any PC build up from powder coated bullets? I keep the acetone in mind but also add a couple of tablespoons of undiluted ballistol per quart of Ed’s red I make

[schutzen-jager]

depends on composition of the pc coating - acetone is fast evaporating solvent for many compounds - PC build up is just another disadvantage related to if's use - never any build up using tumble lubed LA - only fowling in every differentt rifle or pistol i use it in is powder residue from firing -

[Nueces]

Because of acetone's volatility, I don't include it in my Ed's Red, but dokeep a small bottle of it to add in case of need.

[alamogunr]

Look for "Steve's Squeeze". At least that's what I remember. It is a slightly different formulation of homemade bore cleaner. Ingredients are easier to find for me.

I would post the recipe except in the past, I had a habit of saving every thing that caught my eye. Now my very large hard drive is filled with stuff that I can't find easily.

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

I mix my Ed's Red per the original instructions...I do sub Turpentine for MS (an option in original instructions and I prefer the smell). I do use Acetone and Lanolin. Ed does explain the purpose of each ingredient in the original instructions.

I imagine substituting other ingredients might work as well...But the original Ed's Red sure does work great.

[alamogunr]

Hey! It wasn't as hard to find as I thought:

Steve's Squeeze
1 quart deodorized mineral spirits or Exxon ClearLite fuel.

1 quart xylene
1 quart MEK
1 quart ATF or Marvel Mystery Oil

For rust protection in storage, add 4 ounces of Lee Liquid Alox per gallon.
There will be a precipitate in the bottom of the storage container. Do not
shake the storage container, pour the cleaner off the precipitate for use.

Because of the increased solvent power of Steve's Squeeze, store it in glass
or metal containers. Do not store this mixture in plastic bottles. It can
destroy plastic, and it will evaporate through the plastic. You can use
polyethylene squeeze bottles for application, but not for storage. Steve's
Squeeze is harmless to bluing and nickel plating, however it will damage
many stock finishes.

Print this label and place on the container:

RIFLE BORE CLEANER

CAUTION: HARMFUL IF SWALLOWED.
KEEP OUT OF REACH OF CHILDREN

Flammable mixture, Keep away from heat, sparks or flame.

Use with adequate ventilation. Avoid breathing vapors or
spray mist. Avoid contact with skin.
Keep container tightly closed when not in use.

FIRST AID, If swallowed DO NOT induce vomiting, call a
physician immediately. In case of eye contact, immediately
flush thoroughly with water and call a physician.
In case of skin contact, wash thoroughly.

Safe compounding and use are your responsibility.

Storage

After cleaning with Steve's Squeeze and rinsing with mineral spirits, I
apply Steve's Squeeze with Liquid Alox for storage. I wear gloves to avoid
fingerprints, and wrap the gun in a polyethylene plastic wrap, one-gallon
plastic bags work well for pistols and revolvers, kitchen garbage bags for
rifles. This prevents removing the coating if you place the gun in a gun
case and prevents accidental fingerprints when you handle the gun. I put the
gun in the plastic bag while still wet, the solvents evaporate through the
plastic and the gun is dry the next time it is used.

For long term (decades) storage of firearms and ferrous metals, Cosmoline
has long been the gold standard. For an easy to use replacement for
Cosmoline, I mix Lee Liquid Alox with an equal amount of deodorized mineral
spirits and brush it onto the gun. Submerged complex parts like trigger
assemblies and drip-dry. The same plastic bag system works for long-term
storage. Heavy plastic bags specifically made for firearms storage are
available, and may be better in extreme conditions.

It is easy to remove dried Lee Liquid Alox with mineral spirits or any of
the spray solvents like carburetor or brake cleaner. Immediately coat the
gun with Steve's Squeeze, to prevent rust.

You are free to copy this article provided you send it in its entirety.

Note:Exxon ClearLite fuel(Optional first ingredient) has not been available for years. I left it in due to the due to the previous statement.

[elmacgyver0]

Steve's Squeeze should remove fingerprints, off your fingers I mean.

[schutzen-jager]

I mix my Ed's Red per the original instructions...I do sub Turpentine for MS (an option in original instructions and I prefer the smell). I do use Acetone and Lanolin. Ed does explain the purpose of each ingredient in the original instructions.

I imagine substituting other ingredients might work as well...But the original Ed's Red sure does work great.

totally agree bout original formula mixed as to original with reference to the acetone + lanolin for different purposes - Steves Squeeze mixture seems dangerous + toxic to me -

[popper]

Just ATF and kerosine for me.

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

Steves Squeeze mixture seems dangerous + toxic to me -
Xylene and MEK...it's not just for Breakfast anymore ;)

[cuzinbruce]

I have used Ed's Red for years. Results are fine. Acetone, Kerosene, Min Spirits and ATF. Never noticed any problem with stock finishes but I do wipe it off, if I get it on them. Current batch, I did put in lanolin. which I think improves it. No need for heat to dissolve the lanolin, just let it sit for a day or so, stir once in a while. I keep the supply in a metal thinner can, no plastic. On the bench, I keep it in a small, metal lighter fluid can with the flip top. Perfect for squirting on patches.

[725]

Ed's red ~ great stuff. I use it as designed and it works for me. I do make the acetone & ATF as a rust buster. Nothing penetrates like that stuff. The acetone is the vehicle that carries the ATF deep into tiny spaces and it's good for removing plastic in shotgun barrels.

[Shawlerbrook]

Don’t think I want to mess with xylene and MEK. ATF ,mineral spirit and kerosene.

[charlie b]

Been using Red for years now. ATF(Dexron synthetic), Mineral Spirits (low odor), Kerosene and acetone.

I do have a question about the mix. Some bits from Ed's article (at least one that I have).
------------------------------
The original intent was to mimic the arsenal's bore cleaner which was acetone, turpentine, Pratts Astral Oil and sperm oil. [Sperm oil was used for Dexron until they came up with a synthetic blend (IIIG was the first IIRC) so that part is 'easy' to understand].

Pratts Astral oil was nothing more than acid free, deodorized kerosene. I recommend "K1" kerosene of the type normally sold for use in indoor space heaters.

gum spirits of turpentine. Because turpentine is expensive today, and is also an "aromatic" solvent, which is highly flammable, I chose not to use it. Safer and cheaper is "aliphatic mineral spirits," a petroleum based "safety solvent" used for thinning oil based paints and also widely used as an automotive parts cleaner. It is commonly sold under the names "odorless mineral spirits," "Stoddard Solvent" or "Varsol".
--------------------------------------------

So, my problem. I got some K-1 Kerosene to use in the mix. I looked at the SDS and it says it is Stoddard Solvent. So I looked up what was in Kerosene and Stoddard solvent and it seems they are both hydrocarbon chains with just a minor difference. This same thing is common across many of the different 'mineral spirits' and low odor paint thinners out there these days. Then 'discovered' that it was just a trade name for a 'new' dry cleaning fluid that was based on mineral spirits. Mineral spirits are 'graded' and K-1 is one of those grades. So, the 'Kerosene K-1' I bought at the store is actually grade K-1 Mineral Spirits.

I guess I'd like to know why a Stoddard Solvent and Kerosene (lamp/heating oil) are needed in the mix. Chemically they are closely related and their uses seem to overlap in industry.

Short answer for now is I will just use the 'kerosene' or 'low odor mineral spirits' depending on what I have a surplus of.

But, I do wonder if the turpentine would help. It is a different compound but still a HC chain (terpenes vs alkanes). Just to be complete, acetone is also a hydrocarbon of the ketone family. So, the original arsenal mix was a terpene, alkane and ketone (probably why some can substitute MEK for the acetone).

Yes, this is nit-picking. But, I am still curious about the mix and reasoning.

FWIW, I have gone through a similar analysis looking for the 'proper' lamp oil to use in my antique lamps. That gets complicated by the flash points of the various grades of fuel. I don't call it kerosene anymore since that term seems to not mean the same thing in different brands/products.

[HWooldridge]

Charlie B,

Your reasoning and questions are why I asked the question in the first place. Stoddard solvent, naphtha, kerosene and diesel are all about the same from a degreaser perspective. The acetone is a great solvent - so is xylene, toluene, etc. One might conclude lacquer thinner would also work well.

I used turpentine because I already had some in the shop (and I like the smell). Just for fun, I also thought about adding a couple ounces of Hoppes #9.

I don’t think anyone can go wrong with the original recipe but tweaks are the spice of life…

[greenjoytj]

Anyone know what the original 9 ingredients that were in Hoppe’s #9?
I know one ingredient was the banana oil scent, which put me and 50% of firearm enthusiast off using Hoppe’s 9.
I know benzene was eliminated decades ago due to it being a know carcinogen.

I have a small bottle of Hoppe’s that came in a cardboard box with a glass bottle inside, the bottle has a metal top.

Acetone is just too damaging to so many substances like plastics and paint I would not have it near any of my firearms.


Pet peeve, to see firearm cleaning solvents touted as a plastic remover, yet the product(s) are sold in plastic bottles.

[steveu]

I thought that the reason Turpentine was included in the mix is due to its ability to migrate under any lead in the barrel and free it so it can be wiped out easier.

[TD1886]

Xylene and MEK...it's not just for Breakfast anymore ;)

You got that right, I worked with both of those, bad doo doo. Another one kind of in that family is toluene. I believe that is one of the things they removed from plastic model glue because kids were squeezing the glue inside a paper bad and getting high. NOT ME!!

[TD1886]

Anyone know what the original 9 ingredients that were in Hoppe’s #9?
I know one ingredient was the banana oil scent, which put me and 50% of firearm enthusiast off using Hoppe’s 9.
I know benzene was eliminated decades ago due to it being a know carcinogen.

I have a small bottle of Hoppe’s that came in a cardboard box with a glass bottle inside, the bottle has a metal top.

Acetone is just too damaging to so many substances like plastics and paint I would not have it near any of my firearms.


Pet peeve, to see firearm cleaning solvents touted as a plastic remover, yet the product(s) are sold in plastic bottles.

I believe that was hydro bensene that was removed.

[TD1886]

Anyone know what the original 9 ingredients that were in Hoppe’s #9?
I know one ingredient was the banana oil scent, which put me and 50% of firearm enthusiast off using Hoppe’s 9.
I know benzene was eliminated decades ago due to it being a know carcinogen.

I have a small bottle of Hoppe’s that came in a cardboard box with a glass bottle inside, the bottle has a metal top.

Acetone is just too damaging to so many substances like plastics and paint I would not have it near any of my firearms.


Pet peeve, to see firearm cleaning solvents touted as a plastic remover, yet the product(s) are sold in plastic bottles.

There are literally hundreds of different plastic families.

[deces]

https://youtu.be/ovHFjtxo-D4

[TD1886]

Been using Red for years now. ATF(Dexron synthetic), Mineral Spirits (low odor), Kerosene and acetone.

I do have a question about the mix. Some bits from Ed's article (at least one that I have).
------------------------------
The original intent was to mimic the arsenal's bore cleaner which was acetone, turpentine, Pratts Astral Oil and sperm oil. [Sperm oil was used for Dexron until they came up with a synthetic blend (IIIG was the first IIRC) so that part is 'easy' to understand].

Pratts Astral oil was nothing more than acid free, deodorized kerosene. I recommend "K1" kerosene of the type normally sold for use in indoor space heaters.

gum spirits of turpentine. Because turpentine is expensive today, and is also an "aromatic" solvent, which is highly flammable, I chose not to use it. Safer and cheaper is "aliphatic mineral spirits," a petroleum based "safety solvent" used for thinning oil based paints and also widely used as an automotive parts cleaner. It is commonly sold under the names "odorless mineral spirits," "Stoddard Solvent" or "Varsol".
--------------------------------------------

So, my problem. I got some K-1 Kerosene to use in the mix. I looked at the SDS and it says it is Stoddard Solvent. So I looked up what was in Kerosene and Stoddard solvent and it seems they are both hydrocarbon chains with just a minor difference. This same thing is common across many of the different 'mineral spirits' and low odor paint thinners out there these days. Then 'discovered' that it was just a trade name for a 'new' dry cleaning fluid that was based on mineral spirits. Mineral spirits are 'graded' and K-1 is one of those grades. So, the 'Kerosene K-1' I bought at the store is actually grade K-1 Mineral Spirits.

I guess I'd like to know why a Stoddard Solvent and Kerosene (lamp/heating oil) are needed in the mix. Chemically they are closely related and their uses seem to overlap in industry.

Short answer for now is I will just use the 'kerosene' or 'low odor mineral spirits' depending on what I have a surplus of.

But, I do wonder if the turpentine would help. It is a different compound but still a HC chain (terpenes vs alkanes). Just to be complete, acetone is also a hydrocarbon of the ketone family. So, the original arsenal mix was a terpene, alkane and ketone (probably why some can substitute MEK for the acetone).

Yes, this is nit-picking. But, I am still curious about the mix and reasoning.

FWIW, I have gone through a similar analysis looking for the 'proper' lamp oil to use in my antique lamps. That gets complicated by the flash points of the various grades of fuel. I don't call it kerosene anymore since that term seems to not mean the same thing in different brands/products.

Stoddard Solvent and Kerosene are entirelly different. MEK is methyl ethel ketone. It's a bad doo doo too. One shouldn't be buning Stoddard Solvent in devices made to burn keronsene especially indoors.

One of the first things they do to crude oil when it comes into the refinery is run it through a distillation tower. The first things that vaporize off are called the light ends. Think solvents. As you go up the tower the distilled liquids get heavier. Like kerosene and diesel oil. Continues on to every heavier liquids like light oils, etc. until it gets the heavy ends. Then what is left can not be distilled in the standard distillation tower and that then goes to a vacuum distillation tower. That is a dangerous piece of equiptment because refiniers use steam to heat thing and if one drop of water condensation gets inside a vacuum distillation tower BOOM in a big way. Vacuum distillation towers are in two halves lenght wise that can be openned and closed. I say this because when you distill everything out of the crude oil what you have left is coke and dirt. Yes coke, and refineries make 80% of the coke used in the U.S. not coal!!

[jonp]

Just ATF and kerosine for me.

What I use.
ATF/Acetone for penetrating oil works better than store bought

[gwpercle]

I haven't seen any proclamations from Ed about changing the original 4 part fomula ,
Acetone , ATF , K-1 Kerosene and Mineral Spirits , of his Ed's Red Gun Solvent ...
and I've been keeping an eye out for any changes he wants to suggest ...

I'm just going to Keep On Keeping On with the formula (01 / 10 / 98) Ed's Red Revisited that I've been going by ... I ain't changing a thing unless Ed says to do it .
Gary

[super6]

You might want to look into ATF fluid as some are loaded with detergents I soaked a set off starret mics In that stuff and they rusted so bad I had to through them out.

[farmbif]

with kroil at over $100 gallon these days ive been thinking about mixing up a good size batch and thought I'd want to get it right and came across this.

http://www.lasc.us/EdsRedBoreCleaner.htm

this article by ed Harris could probably be useful as a sticky

[fastdadio]

with kroil at over $100 gallon these days ive been thinking about mixing up a good size batch and thought I'd want to get it right and came across this.

http://www.lasc.us/EdsRedBoreCleaner.htm

this article by ed Harris could probably be useful as a sticky

Kroil is good stuff, but very expensive. I use it in the garage for what it's made for. I modified the Ed's red formula by substituting the atf with two stroke engine oil with TC-W3. It does everything the atf does in the mix and more. It's the tc-w3 additive I'm after.
In short, the TC-w3 additive is a concentrated additive package that contains an aggressive detergent, dissolves carbon, and adds lubricity to the oil. It's also a fuel stabilizer. It's designed to clean and lube the combustion chamber, power valve, piston head and rings and exhaust systems in two stroke engines. What's not to like about that? Anyone who has torn into a two stroke engine knows about burnt carbon build up. There is a lot written about the benefits of TC-w3 additive. So here ya go, start reading;
https://forums.iboats.com/threads/exactly-what-does-tc-w3-mean.6830/

https://www.ls1.com/forums/showthread.php?t=91206

https://www.saltwatersportsman.com/two-stroke-engine-oil-for-fishing-boat/

[farmbif]

ive still got a few gallons of yamalube 2 stroke around might just try some of that

[fastdadio]

ive still got a few gallons of yamalube around might just try some of that

I'm pretty sure Yamalube has TC-w3 in it. Generally any oil that has it will list it on the label.
Here's a link;
https://www.nmma.org/assets/cabinets/Cabinet456/2020%20TC-W3%20Registered%20Two-Stroke-Cycle%20Marine%20Oils.pdf
Listed as Yamalube 2M