660 Remington torque?

[Big Dipper]

I am looking for the action screw sequence and torque for my remington 660. It has been my go to hunting rifle for forty years. I had to take the action out of the stock and I can not hit the broad side of a barn with it now. Thanks

[Texas by God]

I never torqued mine but I tightened the front guard screw till snug, then the rear one snug, then firmly tightened both.
The small center trigger guard screw just tighten to snug.
Make sure the barreled action and magazine box are in correct position.
Those are very accurate rifles, as I’m sure that you know already.
We’ve had a 600 in .222 and a 600 Mohawk in 6mm back in the day.
I hope you get it straightened out.


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[Big Dipper]

Thank you, Texas by God. I have had complete faith in this rifle. Now it feels like an unfaithful wife. I hope I can correct the issue.

[TD1886]

I torque all my action screw on all my rifle for the simple fact that if I remove the action from the stock for what ever reason I want it back the way it was especially if it was shooting really good and not walking shots.

[Uncle Grinch]

I always tap my action on the front receiver ring with a rubber mallet as I tighten the action screws.

[porthos]

kinda hard to understand the big difference in accuarcy. just regular tightening the stock screws normally should not cause such a big difference in accuracy. could it be something else. keep us informed.

[TD1886]

kinda hard to understand the big difference in accuarcy. just regular tightening the stock screws normally should not cause such a big difference in accuracy. could it be something else. keep us informed.

An action "settles" into the stock after so many rounds put through it. I like to set a torque value to keep as many things the same when taking it apart and putting it back together. Unless your action is glass bedded or if you have one of the aluminum chassis frame bedding actions do move around in wood stocks.

[Big Dipper]

All my fault. In the early eighties I set this rifle up with free floating the barrel a Leupold 3x9 and worked up a load with 150 grain Nosler Partitions and 43 grains of imr 3031. Handy rifle and always good accuracy 1" at a hundred yards for 35+ years. Shot lots of deer antelope and bear. I had to switch ammunition cause (California). I put a new leupold 2x7 compact scope took off the plastic bottom metal and replace with aftermarket alluminumand put a new crown on the muzzle. I started working with Nosler etips and Hornady GMX 150 grain bullets and several powders. Terrible accuracy and drove myself crazy. Tried my old reliable ammunition terrible accuracy. I now have the action out of the stock and I am going to bed the recoil lug and put the plastic bottom metal back on. The front action screw is sizable however the rear screw is kind of small so it seems to me that getting the sequence right and the tourque right is important.

[Kestrel4k]

Good luck and plz keep us posted. I have a 660 (with aluminum bottom metal / trigger guard) that is very accurate.
It being a .350 Rem Mag, I'm not sure as to groups to the last tenth of an inch, but it's certainly as good as I can shoot.

Even though I'm a Leupold fan, am not as confident with the newer scopes - I'm wondering if Leupold is having the end user do more of the QC these days. :-/
Maybe put the original scope back on & send the newer one back to Leupold for a checkup - I have run many of my scopes back through Leupold and they do rectify the occasional issue.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/sybd5gz6knb6w48/20150911_185932_001.jpg?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/5blac1uz179gkzl/20160115_143850.jpg?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/ve8fnq38ydwqafj/20171204_074637.jpg?dl=0

[TD1886]

Good luck and plz keep us posted. I have a 660 (with aluminum bottom metal / trigger guard) that is very accurate.
It being a .350 Rem Mag, I'm not sure as to groups to the last tenth of an inch, but it's certainly as good as I can shoot.

Even though I'm a Leupold fan, am not as confident with the newer scopes - I'm wondering if Leupold is having the end user do more of the QC these days. :-/
Maybe put the original scope back on & send the newer one back to Leupold for a checkup - I have run many of my scopes back through Leupold and they do rectify the occasional issue.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/sybd5gz6knb6w48/20150911_185932_001.jpg?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/5blac1uz179gkzl/20160115_143850.jpg?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/ve8fnq38ydwqafj/20171204_074637.jpg?dl=0

I just recently watched video on the Leupold factory and it was a current one. I can assure you that nothing changed bad at Leupold.

[Bigslug]

I'd be checking the mag components to make sure nothing is interfering with any of the clamping surfaces - top or bottom.

Make sure the action is all the way to the rear in the stock cavity before adding torque.

Run both screws finger snug before cranking on them, then run the front one to full value first. Finish with the second.

Factory torque for a 700 is 35 inch pounds for a wood stock and 45 for synthetic. I can't imagine the 600 series needing to be different, though I can't recall if the rear screw is a different diameter.

[Big Dipper]

I beleive that the alluminum bottom metal is interfering with the clamping surfaces. The rear action screw is smaller than the front screw, this is why I asked the question on torque. I would feel comfotable with 35 inch pounds. Front screw first is what I usually do.

[30calflash]

With the changes made make sure one or more aren't the problem.

Make sure your action screws aren't bottoming out. If so shorten the screw(s) a bit. Or try your original mag box assy.