5.7x28 for jackets

[Ajax111]

Has anyone had good luck with removing the coating on the 5.7x28 brass?
I'm going to use them for 30 cal jackets.

Thank you.

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

I used a wood stove and annealed them at the same time.
See post #2
sorry the photos are lost.
https://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?103824-Annealing-Jackets

[Dusty Bannister]

A few methods of removal here. Easy archive search.

https://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?419516-5-7x28-plastic-coating&highlight=remove+coating+5.7x28+cases

[Pee Wee]

Has anyone had good luck with removing the coating on the 5.7x28 brass?
I'm going to use them for 30 cal jackets.

Thank you.

Ajax111

I have swaged 1000s of 30 cal. Out of 5.7s. With my buddy Duke in Florida. Once we annealed the brass ( we started out annealing in a 20 pound lee dipper pot with a 1/4 inch steel plate cover and upgraded to a time and temperature controlled craft annealer) we after many trials used ceramic pins washed in just enough water to get them wet, tumbled for 3 hours and that took off the ash and any coating left on them. Good luck in you swaging indevers.

[Sasquatch-1]

I would think annealing will remove any lacquer from the case. Trim before annealing if they need it.

[Pee Wee]

I would think annealing will remove any lacquer from the case. Trim before annealing if they need it.


It removed most but there were still splotches left on some plus the ceramic pin polished them and cleaned off the burnt lacquer.

[Ajax111]

Thank everyone for all the ideas.

I have found myself in a similar spot as Pee Wee. I have annealed the cases in a small Kiln but the annealing process has left spots of burnt lacquer on the brass. I tried to do a few cases, it did not go well.

Pee Wee, was there a special brand or shape of ceramic pins you use?

[Pee Wee]

Ajax,
They are the length of ss pins but fatter. They are for rock tumbleing I believe I got them on Amazon, I use 5 lbs. very little water just enough to make them slushy. To much water does not work. No soap just water for 3 hrs. Hope that helps.

[Ajax111]

Thank you.

[dimaprok]

Interesting, I thought it was a typo when you said ceramic pins. I've seen these triangle ceramic media in Harbor Freight and I was wondering how they would work. I am in the same boat, I've been saving 5.7 cases because I had 30 cal dies I bought from a member here. At the time I didn't know how to make them work but as I picked up another set of 22 dies that uses similar punches it all became clear.

Now I just need to figure out how to convert 5.7x28 in to a usable jacket. Do you guys expand the the neck or trim it off? What kind of weight can you make with a fine open tip? Also for those who anneal with kiln, what temperature should I use? I picked up a small kiln and added PID to it.

https://www.harborfreight.com/air-tools-compressors/air-tools/blasting-cleaning/tumblers/5-lb-rust-cutting-resin-abrasive-tumbler-media-63672.html

[Pee Wee]

Interesting, I thought it was a typo when you said ceramic pins. I've seen these triangle ceramic media in Harbor Freight and I was wondering how they would work. I am in the same boat, I've been saving 5.7 cases because I had 30 cal dies I bought from a member here. At the time I didn't know how to make them work but as I picked up another set of 22 dies that uses similar punches it all became clear.

Now I just need to figure out how to convert 5.7x28 in to a usable jacket. Do you guys expand the the neck or trim it off? What kind of weight can you make with a fine open tip? Also for those who anneal with kiln, what temperature should I use? I picked up a small kiln and added PID to it.

https://www.harborfreight.com/air-tools-compressors/air-tools/blasting-cleaning/tumblers/5-lb-rust-cutting-resin-abrasive-tumbler-media-63672.html

Dimaprok,
I use BTs dies, I do not cut them off. I derim them first, then anneal, ceramic pin wash,expand mouth, stuff, point form slight hollow point. The largest weight I have made is 168 Gr.


The temperature that I annealed is around 1000 degees but may depend on differing kiln.

[dimaprok]

Dimaprok,
I use BTs dies, I do not cut them off. I derim them first, then anneal, ceramic pin wash,expand mouth, stuff, point form slight hollow point. The largest weight I have made is 168 Gr.


The temperature that I annealed is around 1000 degees but may depend on differing kiln.

Thanks for the response, I actually want to make short 120-130gr bullets for my 300 HAM'R similar to Speer 125gr TNT, so I'll probably need to trim them. If you have any information on what length to trim for that weight I would appreciate it.

So when you say you "derim" them I assume you pass them through a sizing die correct to make them around .307?

[TD1886]

Thank everyone for all the ideas.

I have found myself in a similar spot as Pee Wee. I have annealed the cases in a small Kiln but the annealing process has left spots of burnt lacquer on the brass. I tried to do a few cases, it did not go well.

Pee Wee, was there a special brand or shape of ceramic pins you use?

Who determined the coating was lacquer? I heard from those reloading it or wanting to reload that case say that you can't duplicate the coating.

[Pee Wee]

Thanks for the response, I actually want to make short 120-130gr bullets for my 300 HAM'R similar to Speer 125gr TNT, so I'll probably need to trim them. If you have any information on what length to trim for that weight I would appreciate it.

So when you say you "derim" them I assume you pass them through a sizing die correct to make them around .307?
I only swaged for 150gr and 168 gr. So I never cut them down. I use BT Sniper dies, yes you pass them Thur a die to size down .307 and then after the anneling and ceramic wash, expand the mouth to stuff with lead core and then nose form.

[Pee Wee]

[QUOTE=TD1886;5595476]Who determined the coating was lacquer? I heard from those reloading it or wanting to reload that case say that you can't duplicate the coating.[/QUOTE
I’m not sure what the coating is, we just called it lacquer.

[TD1886]

[QUOTE=TD1886;5595476]Who determined the coating was lacquer? I heard from those reloading it or wanting to reload that case say that you can't duplicate the coating.[/QUOTE
I’m not sure what the coating is, we just called it lacquer.

That's what I thought. Thanks

[ARKANSAS PACKRAT]

I read that the coating is a polymer "of some kind" it's for sure some tough stuff!
I have removed it with paint remover followed by wet pin tumbling.
Soaking them in the paint remover for a week or so and then tumbling for an hour takes about half of the coating off, repeat and almost all will be clean.
I did this to have clean reloading brass for rifle use, two hundred took on "a project" statis.
For swaging I burned it off in the annealing process followed by tumbling.

[MUSTANG]

When I make .308 jackets from 5.7 brass; I heat them with a propane torch first to soften them for forming. This generally gets rid of most of the coating; then I clean in a sonic cleaner with Dawn/Lemishine, then Swage the Jackets and cores into Bullets - finally clean with corn cob media to polish after swaging bullets.

[Pee Wee]

When I make .308 jackets from 5.7 brass; I heat them with a propane torch first to soften them for forming. This generally gets rid of most of the coating; then I clean in a sonic cleaner with Dawn/Lemishine, then Swage the Jackets and cores into Bullets - finally clean with corn cob media to polish after swaging bullets.

Yes, I tried the torch first then went to lee 20 pound dipping pot and finally a craft pottery oven. When Duke, Eddie and I got together to swage we would do 2 to 3 thousand at a time. We would have a swaging party on Friday once a month.

[bigjake]

Yes, I tried the torch first then went to lee 20 pound dipping pot and finally a craft pottery oven. When Duke, Eddie and I got together to swage we would do 2 to 3 thousand at a time. We would have a swaging party on Friday once a month.

sounds like you guys had fun!

[jaguarxk120]

The write up I seen stated the case was coated with a polymer coating.
There are many different coatings/paints out there. But one that come to mind is acrylic
floor finish, very durable, water based, ease of application, and the tip of the bullet can be coated.
Just run the loaded rounds through a wash then let dry. Case is coated for extraction and the bullet tip
has a coating the will help it slide between the fibers of a vest.

The guy's want that coating removed might want to try a floor finish remover located in the household products section.

[Ajax111]

I finally did another batch of 5.7 brass. This batch was a little different from the first.

This came out of the kiln with the coating (whatever it is) turned Black. Since I just got a lite tumbler, I want to try, I put them with ss pins and Dawn. Left it on for a hour and 1/2. It took the covering off, which was a surprise.
It left little chunks of (looks like plastic) black particles.

The chunks plugged up the screen I use for draining, but the cases are clean and bright.

[Soundguy]

wow.. as hard as it is to find and load 5.7 brings tears to my eyes seeing it used as jackets...

Seems something like 17hmr or 22wmr would be better.. the brass is scrap or useless except the few that reload rimfire.

[MUSTANG]

wow.. as hard as it is to find and load 5.7 brings tears to my eyes seeing it used as jackets...

Seems something like 17hmr or 22wmr would be better.. the brass is scrap or useless except the few that reload rimfire.

Sound Guy:

(1) Not many people reload the 5.7 as it has some peculiarities and foibles as I understand it.

(2) The 5.7 case is one of those that when annealed is fairly easily sized down to .307/.308 diameter; and then the swaging is fairly easy for a "Semi-Flat Based" swaged bullet.

(3) I seem to be one of the few who have had success in swaging 22WMR to .308 (150 Grain bullets; 85% + success rate per 22WMR case). https://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?426927-Swage-308-Jackets-from-22-WMR-%96-Finally-Success-in-Tilting-at-That-Windmill&highlight=

(4) I have converted many 17 HMR cases to heavy .224 bullet jackets; but no success in trying to do so for a .308 bullet.


PS. if you or others want to trade 5/16 copper tubing for 5.7 cases - drop me a PM.

[Ajax111]

The 5.7 I have is scrap at our gun club. No body reloads it here.
I use the 22rf for 224. bullets and 22mag for heavy 22 caliber bullets. A few of us try and use any scrap from the club.

I have not tried, but Mustang is the only one I have heard of, being successful at making a 30 caliber out of 22mag cases.

My next project is 9mm cases for 30 cal.

[Soundguy]

I reload 5.7x28 since I've been reloading it for a couple years I had exactly two cases damaged I find it no harder to reload than other cases that you have to take some care like 218 b e e or 4440 that have very thin mouths and a very slight neck. Looking at 22 magnum I'm surprised that fewer people have had success at turning them into 308.
Back when 8mm namby cases didn't exist I got a kit to make them out of 30 rem. 30 rem is even more rare imho.. luckily 6.8 SPC cases are based on 30 REM so I was able to take 6.8 SPC cut them down and then turn them into 8 mm nambu