Does anyone know of a Cannelure tool that will work on a bottleneck pistol case?

[AbitNutz]

I decided to play around with making a goofy little cartridge called the 32NAA. All it is, is a 380 acp necked down to .312. I used my Beretta Model 84BB because all I needed to do was get a barrel and magazine from a Beretta Model 81 in 32 acp and have it rechambered to 32NAA and it was good to go. The barrel dropped right in. No extractor problems, nothing. It just worked. Except for one problem.

The problem is with jacketed bullets. The case neck is so short and has so little grip that on a blowback gun like my Beretta model 84. The recoil spring power is strong/quick enough to whack the bullet back into the case. It doesn't happen on my my cast and bullets. I have a couple of NOE molds that I coat using Hi-Tek that everything seems to work fine with but it is a concern.

I've experimented with trying to adjust the neck tension and using a taper crimp but that is a no go on jacketed bullets.

I was thinking about running a cannelure around the neck of the case to prevent the bullet from backing into the case. However, I'm not sure that any of the cannelure tools from CH or Corbin will run on a bottleneck case. I'm not aware of anyone else who makes a cannelure tool.

If anyone out there has one of these tools can confirm my suspicions I'd appreciate it.

[Mk42gunner]

I don't know.

You may have to come up with some type of collet crimper resembling Lee's rifle type FCD to apply a crimp behind the jacketed bullet, kind of like the ones used for heeled bullet cartridges.

Robert

[Milky Duck]

Ive heard of folks using a pipe cutter to do the crimp thing on straight wall cases.....

[Sasquatch-1]

I had a C&H cannular tool that worked fairly well. It was fairly adjustable for the depth of the cannular. If you plan on using it on the case itself, you may have to anneal the brass a bit.

[HWooldridge]

+1 for the pipe cutter idea. I've seen them used on straight wall cases - I bet you could create something off that design that would work for you. Wouldn't need much, just a light roll below the bullet base.

[AbitNutz]

Yes, but do you think your CH tool would have worked on a bottleneck pistol case?

[Sasquatch-1]

I have since gotten rid of it. There are several here who have them and I am sure they would be willing to test it for you. If you look at the tool it is very similar to a tubing cutter with the single blade and two rollers. If you use the tubing cutter you may want to blunt the cutter first. The handle with the knob swings around to press the object against the rollers.

314991

[Harter66]

I think the older CH I have would work . It would have to be used the first time after seating or with a mandrill I would think.

[45_Colt]

Just played with the CH tool and a .380 case. I was able to put a cannelure in the case with ease. If I were to do a lot of them, I might modify the tool somewhat. IOW, make a/some special piece(s) to make it easier.

As for doing a .380 necked down to .32, not so sure. The height of the rollers may be an issue as there wouldn't be anything to back up the neck.

Could make up a set of rollers for the .32 NAA case. And just swap them out when needed. But if you can do that, the lathe could be used to put a cannelure into a case.

Can you put the cannelure into the case prior to necking it down? That would work.

I do the opposite, put the cannelure in the bullet and crimp the mouth into it. This is for .357 SIG (also a BN), and use a Lee collet crimp die.

45_Colt

[AbitNutz]

You Sir are a Wizzard I can absolutely put the cannelure on the case before I neck it down. I may also play with putting it on the bullet. I hadn't thought of outting it on the case before I necked it down...thank you!

[Larry Gibson]

I would grind the thin hardened layer off the bottom of a 32 S&WL seating die and then shorten the die so when in the shell holder the case mouth will be roll crimped. Then use a drill just .001over the diameter [or as close as possible] to the diameter of the sized, formed cases just far enough the case will just fully enter the die with the case still in the shell holder and the roll crimp can be applied. Should be enough of the original 32 S&WL chamber in the seat die to hold the short neck of the formed 32NAA case. In essence you are making a custom seat die that will roll crimp the case mouth. The case mouth can then be crimped into the cannelure on a jacketed bullet as is normally done.

[AbitNutz]

There's another great idea...

[gwpercle]

If this "new" round headspaces on the case shoulder , and not on the case mouth , then apply a cannelure to J-word bullet and roll crimp into cannelure ...
Wait ... where you going to get a roll crimp die for the 32NAA ??? ...
That isn't going to work ...never mind .... :holysheep
Gary

[405grain]

These are some good ideas, but before I'd try them I'd use a smaller case neck expander first. If your reloading dies are working fine with cast loads I'd leave them as is. To get better neck tension with jacketed bullets I'd get a second neck expanding plug, then reduce it's diameter. An easy way to do this is to chuck the expander plug in a drill and use sandpaper on it as it spins. Try reducing the plugs diameter by around .001" or so and see if it causes more neck tension. Repeat the sanding until the jacketed bullets are nice and tight in the case. I'm pretty sure that creating a cannelure right at the neck/shoulder of a bottleneck case would significantly shorten the case life, and might even lead to the neck eventually separating and getting stuck in the chamber. It would be easier to just increase the neck tension by using a smaller expander.

[firefly1957]

I have the same issue with 357-44 B&D but my guns are single shot so it really does not matter a lot.
I did look at Lee's webpage and you can for a price get custom factory crimp dies made your case may be a bit short check Lee's webpage or give them a call . I think the die was under $100 when I looked a few years ago to have custom made .