electric safe lock

[hiram]

I had a problem with an electric safe lock.

I tried opening the safe by doing the usual, but I got 3 beeps at the end of the sequence instead of two. I tried this two more times-no luck. Then when I tried it again, no beeps.

I changed the battery, no good. I let it be half an hour, then it worked.

I happened to go to a gun show and I spoke to a safe vendor. She said it sounded like the lock is failing and she gave me prices for a new lock. She also said one day nothing will happen and then the job gets expensive to drill whatever has to be drilled to open the door.

Any help/comments? What she said may be true, but I am a little leary.

Thanks

[Sasquatch-1]

If it's a quality safe, I would check with the manufacturer first and see what they have to say.

[Land Owner]

This marks a reason I purchased and rely on old fashioned, manual, rotary dial safes. I hope to find my locks gives satisfaction every time. While there probably are American made products, of which I have not researched, I suspect that many of the electronic lock internals are Made in China.

Rotary dial safes seem to be inherently maintenance-free. I have not read about "required maintenance" or "lockout" on rotary dial safes, except forgetting the combination.

[Sig]

I had to change out one for a buddy. It was a fairly straight forward job. I personally prefer a dial, but they can fail too. I'd replace it if I were you with a S&G or similar.

[Thundarstick]

One of the gun shops here had to have a large Fort Knox safe drilled because of an electric lock failure. I remembered that episode when I bought a safe and made sure it had a high quality S&G rotary lock!

[winelover]

My 25+ year old Electronic S&G failed similar to open, recently. Changed the batteries, got the correct beep but didn't hear mechanism opening, until around the third try. Been behaving for about two months now.

This is not my only safe with an electronic lock. My Brown Safe, I ordered has a LeGuard electronic and a back up manual. Never used the manual except to confirm the combination, when purchased 12 years ago. Manual locks are a PITA to open when you age/require reading glasses. They are slower than molasses in January to open, even for young eyes. Both safes are opened weekly, if not daily, using the electronic locks.

Winelover

[Randy Bohannon]

I had the same experience with a Cannon safe ,spent some time on the phone with the Cannon C/S in India ! Needless to say it didn’t go well and didn’t resolve the issue. I mentioned this to my local gun store and they suggested replacing the S&G third world electronic lock with a American Security mechanical lock which was a item they carried as it was a common problem with S&G electronic locks. It solved my issue with aplomb,it took about 30 minutes to replace and is not difficult .

[pworley1]

I am too old fashion, I don't trust electronic locks.

[ioon44]

I would not trust an electronic lock either.

[deltaenterprizes]

I was told when I bought my first safe to take the inside panel off of the door and take measurements of where the deadbolt locks the mechanism so that if I had a problem I could drill it myself.
I had to punch 2 of my safes after Katrina because they would not open.

[psychodad]

I was told when I bought my first safe to take the inside panel off of the door and take measurements of where the deadbolt locks the mechanism so that if I had a problem I could drill it myself.
Sounds like a good idea. Guess I know what I'm doing this afternoon.

[rbuck351]

My electric safe came with a key that opens the safe with the key hole behind the battery.

[jimlj]

The mechanical locks require periodic cleaning and lubrication.
About 30 years ago my S&G lock started feeling stiff to turn and took many tries to get it open. After getting the door open I removed the inside cover and blew out all the dust bunnies and gave the lock a light spritz of WD-40. I worked the lock several times with the door open and it began to work flawless. I do the same clean and oil every few years as a preventative maintenance since then.

[pete501]

My S&G electric lock started acting up and after contacting the safe company, they offered me a replacement lock and instructions for installation. Pretty easy to replace with no special tools required. Not sure if the lock was under recall but there was no charge.

[deltaenterprizes]

The mechanical locks require periodic cleaning and lubrication.
About 30 years ago my S&G lock started feeling stiff to turn and took many tries to get it open. After getting the door open I removed the inside cover and blew out all the dust bunnies and gave the lock a light spritz of WD-40. I worked the lock several times with the door open and it began to work flawless. I do the same clean and oil every few years as a preventative maintenance since then.
When the WD-40 gums up you will have more problems!
WD-40 is not a good lubricant, it is a water displacer, hence W D, the 40th formula.
Use a light oil like Remoil or other spray oil.

[farmbif]

there is a reason thermal lances were invented. but who knows what condition the contents will be in if you have to resort to such extremes to get it open

[Winger Ed.]

I worked for a high security safe company for 11 years.
In the customer service desk area, there was usually 2 or 3 people in there. The phone never stopped ringing.
I asked one of them one time how many calls did they get for problems with the old school spin dial locks.
They said every few weeks they'd get a call where it had been in a fire, flood, or someone had lost the combination.

On the big monster TL rated high security safes- we wouldn't sell one with an electronic lock on it.
If you do go back with a electronic lock, AMSEC ESL-10 or 20 is the benchmark of the industry.

I also think your lock is failing.
If it's locked, and won't open, which is coming--- get out a fat checkbook to have a locksmith drill it.
All problems with a safe are MUCH easier to deal with if the door is open.

[popper]

Mine has keypad and 2 KEYS.

[Winger Ed.]

The mechanical locks require periodic cleaning and lubrication.

Cleaning--- yes. Lubrication--- that's a big no-no.

The class S&G gives recommends take it apart, clean the wheels & shaft with a strong solvent,
wipe/polish them with a dry lint free cloth, and put it back together.

Not all, but most S&Gs have a flat plate that looks like a gear at the bottom of the lock body.
It adjusts the tension you feel when turning the dial.

When any oil becomes gummy, the wheels won't coast freely and will drag with the one above or below it.
Then it gets real interesting.............

[Adam20]

Had a Eletronic one go bad after 10 years, had a s/g dial put on.

[fastdadio]

Had a Eletronic one go bad after 10 years, had a s/g dial put on.

Yup, me too. Only I installed the dial set myself. Easy peasy operation. Every circuit board controlled device I've ever owned has failed. The ones that haven't yet are going to. Don't get me going on digital scales.......

[Three44s]

No electronic safes for me!

Three44s

[gwpercle]

Yup, me too. Only I installed the dial set myself. Easy peasy operation. Every circuit board controlled device I've ever owned has failed. The ones that haven't yet are going to. Don't get me going on digital scales.......

:goodpost:
Like ! X 10
Gary

[gc45]

I had an issue with a mechanical lock. The Guy who came out fixed it pretty fast saying I was very lucky he got it open without drilling the door. He then explained the electric locks, all made in china, keep him in food, mechanical locks not so much. My issue was from not cleaning the lock internals which can throw off the tumblers easily as they work on gravity and have brass parts. Now my locks on both safes work as new and will be having him out in a couple years for service again. He also set the combos to the same numbers making it less foe me to remember. I could likely clean it but to much invested in safes and guns, just easier to have the expert do it. Something to remember; 99% of Locksmiths don't do gun safes so, suggest finding one who does before you need one.

[Land Owner]

Recup'ing from total right knee replacement surgery (Day 26) I have watched a few "Storage Wars" videos and seen too many top-brand safes opened by amateurs using prybars, cutting wheels, and torches while destroying a valuable safe. A locksmith recommended by an LGS, which sells safes or from whom a safe is purchased, would be a phone number worth keeping.

[M-Tecs]

Cleaning--- yes. Lubrication--- that's a big no-no.

The class S&G gives recommends take it apart, clean the wheels & shaft with a strong solvent,
wipe/polish them with a dry lint free cloth, and put it back together.

Not all, but most S&Gs have a flat plate that looks like a gear at the bottom of the lock body.
It adjusts the tension you feel when turning the dial.

When any oil becomes gummy, the wheels won't coast freely and will drag with the one above or below it.
Then it gets real interesting.............

Great info. Thanks for the post.

[pmer]

With most digital locks 2 beeps means a good code was entered. 3 beeps means a bad code entered and a quick series of beeps means low battery.

If the OP is certain he was entering the correct code and still getting 3 beeps the best thing to do is replace the lock.

Ignore mode happens when the wrong code is entered several times and the lock will act dead or might give a random beep or light flash for a short time.

If you clean a mechanical lock just use a dry paper towel and wipe the axel or boss that the wheels spin on and the inside of the wheels and the special bushings between the wheels. Lube is a bad idea in that area because it will tend to make the wheels stick together. It's like when you enter 20-30-40, the lock will be at 20-32-40 and it won't open. But don't fix it if it's not broke!

[georgerkahn]

I had a problem with an electric safe lock.

I tried opening the safe by doing the usual, but I got 3 beeps at the end of the sequence instead of two. I tried this two more times-no luck. Then when I tried it again, no beeps.

I changed the battery, no good. I let it be half an hour, then it worked.

I happened to go to a gun show and I spoke to a safe vendor. She said it sounded like the lock is failing and she gave me prices for a new lock. She also said one day nothing will happen and then the job gets expensive to drill whatever has to be drilled to open the door.

Any help/comments? What she said may be true, but I am a little leary.

Thanks

Interesting! One of my safes has telephone-style touch pad "electronic combination lock", BUT it also may be opened with a key! I reckon your post is a good reminder for me to change batteries, and I'm always apprehensive doing this is I fear my combination may be lost. Anyhoos, two suggestions: Change the batteries to Eveready brand (in my experience they leak the least! with Mallory being the worst!) Clean the battery terminals with fine Emory paper -- I use wet 'n dry 1,000 grit. And, put a teeny amount of Dielectric grease on each end of battery. Oh -- if you ARE using Everready -- my sincere recommendation is their Lithium ones. And, if you do not have dielectric grease, Vaseline is not a too-bad substitute.

BEST
geo

[pmer]

Interesting! One of my safes has telephone-style touch pad "electronic combination lock", BUT it also may be opened with a key! I reckon your post is a good reminder for me to change batteries, and I'm always apprehensive doing this is I fear my combination may be lost. Anyhoos, two suggestions: Change the batteries to Eveready brand (in my experience they leak the least! with Mallory being the worst!) Clean the battery terminals with fine Emory paper -- I use wet 'n dry 1,000 grit. And, put a teeny amount of Dielectric grease on each end of battery. Oh -- if you ARE using Everready -- my sincere recommendation is their Lithium ones. And, if you do not have dielectric grease, Vaseline is not a too-bad substitute.

BEST
geo
Any time you do anything to a safe like changing batteries or codes, pins and combos do it with the door locked open and test it a few times with the door open. Then and only then, LOL, shut the door. I can't count the times bank tellers change codes on their digital locks with the door shut and they don't know what they put in for a code.

[Winger Ed.]

It's like when you enter 20-30-40, the lock will be at 20-32-40 and it won't open.

Exactly.
I tell people all these locks are like dialing the telephone, not Burger King.---

One number off, and you missed. And you do it their way,,,,,,,, not yours.

[jimlj]

Cleaning--- yes. Lubrication--- that's a big no-no.

The class S&G gives recommends take it apart, clean the wheels & shaft with a strong solvent,
wipe/polish them with a dry lint free cloth, and put it back together.

Not all, but most S&Gs have a flat plate that looks like a gear at the bottom of the lock body.
It adjusts the tension you feel when turning the dial.

When any oil becomes gummy, the wheels won't coast freely and will drag with the one above or below it.
Then it gets real interesting.............

Thanks for the information. I'll look into the disassembly and cleaning. I don't think I want to pay a locksmith to drill this safe.

[jimlj]

When the WD-40 gums up you will have more problems!
WD-40 is not a good lubricant, it is a water displacer, hence W D, the 40th formula.
Use a light oil like Remoil or other spray oil.

When I was little bitty kid, a salesman gave my dad a small can of WD-40 to try. It got used in fishing reels, electric motors and (gasp) guns. It worked then and I've been using it for the past 65 years with no problems. Are there other lubricants that are better? Yes. Do I use WD-40 for everything that sticks? No. Do I use it on my guns? (gasp) Depends (gasp) I prefer other oils, but if WD-40 was all that was available when the need arises I will use it with no worries.
Disclaimer.... I have been known to use Fram oil filters and conventional Walmart oil in my vehicles, and I've been threatened with Texas fire ants for making chili wrong so take anything I say with a grain of salt.

[Winger Ed.]

Thanks for the information. I'll look into the disassembly and cleaning. I don't think I want to pay a locksmith to drill this safe.

Glad to help.

Taking one of those apart is easy. Getting it back together and working right---- ahhh,,,, not so much.

Anyway:
Take the back cover off the lock body, hose it out a bunch with spray can carberator/choke cleaner as you turn the dial
several times. Hold a towel under it to contain all the 'run off'.
Be bold----- it's already dead so you won't hurt it with a plastic tube on a spray can.
Blow it out with air (if you can), while turning the dial.

Let it dry and test the spin of the dial, and do the combination a few times-- you should be good with that.


//////
Oh,, there's more than one reason not to drill a safe.
One time there was one of our locksmiths drilling one.
He had to go from the side- aiming to drill/chew off the locking bolt of the (electronic) lock itself.
Going in, he hit something that wasn't supposed to be there.
The owner was impatient, and told him to not worry about it, and just go ahead.
So he did. Once the safe was open, it was discovered a shotgun had fallen to lean against the inside of the door frame.

The owner ended up with a 1/4" hole perfectly drilled through both the barrels of his O/U Browning.
It was his call to proceed,,,, so no, the company didn't buy the new set of barrels.

The guy ended up with a trashed shotgun, and a bill for about $400.

[pmer]

Glad to help.

Taking one of those apart is easy. Getting it back together and working right---- ahhh,,,, not so much.

Anyway:
Take the back cover off the lock body, hose it out a bunch with spray can carberator/choke cleaner as you turn the dial
several times. Hold a towel under it to contain all the 'run off'.
Be bold----- it's already dead so you won't hurt it with a plastic tube on a spray can.
Blow it out with air (if you can), while turning the dial.

Let it dry and test the spin of the dial, and do the combination a fewanical times-- you should be good with that.

None of our techs would clean a mechanical lock that way. (spin dial) With the time it would take making and cleaning up that mess the lock could be properly cleaned and tested. If one can take apart an AR lower and upper or a 1911 and put it back together and have it work, a lock is not that tuff. It's a matter of last piece out - first piece in.

Test your spin dial by entering your combo a tiny bit past each number then a tiny bit before each number (a half digit or less). If it opens both times you don't need to do anything to it. If it consistently opens a little bit one way or the other you still don't really need to worry, a lot of decades old locks with constant use are like that.

Digitals on the other hand - if they suddenly get quirky or weird. The first thing to do is slow down and make sure you are putting your code in correctly. Then replace the battery and or see if everything is plugged in tightly (fix a bad connection). If it's still isn't right you should be in a hurry to replace it or have it replaced.

[Winger Ed.]

you still don't really need to worry, a lot of decades old locks with constant use are like that.



Our guys never seemed to get very fast on taking one apart & putting it back together.
Working on customer stuff, on the spin dials we encountered- if it wasn't a expensive 4 wheel or MP- they'd just swap in a new one.
Back at the shop, company policy was to never sell a safe with a used lock.

We did a lot of commercial re-furbs. They were almost all to chain business/commercial customers.
All electronic locks got pulled off as soon as they came in the door.

I've got a S&G on my gun safe that hasn't been opened in 20-odd years and its fine.
The only ones I've seen really need cleaning were in a real high humidity & hot, dusty/dirty place, ,,, or someone had sprayed oil in it.

[HARLOWPARKENFARKER]

Sometimes the new battery holder or its connection is dirty or otherwise not making good contact. A good procedure is to wipe the battery and battery connections with a clean paper towel or tissue and don't touch them before you assemble the battery and battery holder. If you can get to the electrical connections inside the door, insure that they're sound. The,"Unlock," mechanism needs a minimum amount of amperage to operate

[Rapier]

Yep as a company bond underwriter required a class E safe be installed once, due to the cash on hand exposure on Friday nights, so after a few months, burglars dropped the roof, blew up the entire AAA-Wind Resistive 12,000 sq ft National Chain Super Market building, never got into that safe though, we had the insurance also, bought a new building, contents, and paid a handsome loss of income claim, the money was safe and sound. Everyone got the red adz at me, all the clowns had to do was use an armorer car service, easier to blane someone else. A life lesson. Rarely does anything, just happen, most times there are several warnings, in my case we had instances of French sepretests crossing the border from Canada with military hardware, including belt feds and grenades, first time they used satchel charges, 50 pound bags of sugar and flour. Forever after, I called it the Super Cake, just a toucch of humor....

[Winger Ed.]

never got into that safe though,

Some of them are tough,,

After Hurricane Katrina down in New Orleans, there was a lot of safe opening work to be done.
Our main gu-ru went down there with a few thousand dollars worth of those Strong Arm drill bits and his scope.
He was opening vaults in flooded grocery stores with rotten food swishing around, pawn shops and jewelry stores
that you pulled up to a burned off slab and worked on a big safe standing there all by itself.

Working way back inside the rotten smelling grocery stores were one thing,
but he wouldn't even get out of his truck on the ones out in the open without two licensed and bonded armed guards next to him.

[45_Colt]

Some of them are tough,,

After Hurricane Katrina down in New Orleans, there was a lot of safe opening work to be done.

Just wondering, electronic or mechanical locks? For some reason I'd bet it was a mix of both.

I'm not one for electronic locks on safes, just me.

45_Colt

[Winger Ed.]

Just wondering, electronic or mechanical locks? For some reason I'd bet it was a mix of both.
I'm not one for electronic locks on safes, just me.45_Colt

In this day & age, the industry is mostly electronic.
The big, heavy vaults places like jewelry stores have still mostly have high end spin dials. 4 wheel, manipulation proof, time locks, etc.

The advantages to electronic is the higher end ones have several features: they can hold multiple combinations, do time delays,
require 2 separate combinations, and the combinations can be added/changed without calling a locksmith.

There are ones available that leave a trail, and have their own IP address.
If someone has a combination set to work from 8 AM until 8PM for example-
it only opens the lock during that time. If they try outside those hours, it won't open, but will record they tried.
Some require a electronic key, with different ones allowing different functions, then ya put in the combination.
Some know the door is open,,,, after so long, it beeps to remind you the door is open,
if ya don't close it,,,, a little while after that-- the lock calls the Police.
Some are connected in with the security alarms, if ya beat on them or get 'em hot, it triggers the alarm.
Some even have to confirm a thumb print,,, then allow the combination to work.

There's a lot of cool stuff out there in that industry.

[pmer]

Well digital locks are faster to open and they can be used with little to no light in the room, compared reading the dial. But digital locks have a higher replacement rate compared to mechanical locks.

Some of the electronic locks have options that out pace spin dial locks. Things like delay timers, only opening at certain times and days, more than one person to open. Some have auditing and more.

So electronic locks are here to stay and the higher fail rate seems to be out weighed by lower operating costs because customers don't need locksmiths to change combos, most of them change their own pins.

Edit, looks like Winger Ed covered it already.

[Winger Ed.]

So electronic locks are here to stay

If you catch them when they give their warnings, changing them out is no big deal.

I retired a few years ago, and back then, I was waiting for voice recognition ones to hit the street.

[pmer]

Winger Ed, I don't see those paddle keys in use that much any more. Its the same style of lock but they get a different combo each time the lock is used. If you lock it the code you used a minute ago won't work.

[Winger Ed.]

Winger Ed, I don't see those paddle keys in use that much any more. Its the same style of lock but they get a different combo each time the lock is used. If you lock it the code you used a minute ago won't work.

A lot of hotels have those in the rooms with a small personal safe.
I never worked with them, but I figure management would need to have a gu-ru number to
open them when the customer forgot the number they keyed in.

For the big safes, I'd heard of them, but we never sold any.
Our suppliers had some that when you wanted to open the safe, you called their office
and they gave you a number--- but it only worked once.
Next time, you had to call them again and get a different one.
The lock probably held held a very large number of combinations, but they only worked in a sequence.

[Brokenbear]

Obviously there are folks on here that know far more than I but I feel compelled to share that my key pad battery died on one of my safes not long ago and I put in a new Energizer 9V button type and it still would not function so in desperation I called the safe company and got an old guy like me who had been with the safe company for a gagillion years ...He said they had learned that it took a really hot battery to get things back in order and that I was to go purchase a Copper Top Duracell 9V whose "good date" was 2025 or longer ..that their company experience has been the Copper Top install has solved 90% of the failures they encounter ..in the conversation he said they tested all the name brands I know of and some I never heard of and they failed (in reliability ) to have the required power to do the needed jolt for a proper reset ..except the Duracell Copper Top

His words not mine.. but I can tell you I was thankfully one of the 90 percenters his advise worked for ..great joy for sure !!!!

Bear

[Winger Ed.]

I put in a new Energizer 9V button type and it still would not function

Energizer bunnies used to be the benchmark of the industry and came in the new high end locks.
Years ago, we had a generation of Energizers that dropped below peak voltage way, way too soon and we switched to Duracells.
When a battery goes below a certain voltage, they just quit-- like a light bulb.
They don't usually slow down, drag, or make a 'chirp' like smoke alarms.

The other day, I was on Amazon looking to get a small package of AAs.
There was a bunch of complaints about the Energizers not being strong, even right out of the box.
I wonder if it isn't some sort of deal where the 'suspender boys' in the corporate office are trying to save money.

Our service desk would sometimes get calls where people had put a el-cheapo Radio Shack
battery in and the lock wouldn't fire.
We had one that insisted the cheap battery was fine, and called for a Service Tech.
The Customer Service guy told them if a Tech. came out and only put in a premium battery-- it will still cost $300.
They got a "Let me call you back"....... and the customer never did.

[Brokenbear]

Energizer bunnies used to be the benchmark of the industry and came in the new high end locks.
Years ago, we had a generation of Energizers that dropped below peak voltage way, way too soon and we switched to Duracells.
When a battery goes below a certain voltage, they just quit-- like a light bulb.
They don't usually slow down, drag, or make a 'chirp' like smoke alarms.

The other day, I was on Amazon looking to get a small package of AAs.
There was a bunch of complaints about the Energizers not being strong, even right out of the box.
I wonder if it isn't some sort of deal where the 'suspender boys' in the corporate office are trying to save money.

Our service desk would sometimes get calls where people had put a el-cheapo Radio Shack
battery in and the lock wouldn't fire.
We had one that insisted the cheap battery was fine, and called for a Service Tech.
The Customer Service guy told them if a Tech. came out and only put in a premium battery-- it will still cost $300.
They got a "Let me call you back"....... and the customer never did.

Ed I thought I read'em all but sure missed yours but isn't a shame the amount of $$ folks have wasted by simply not using the correct battery ..and shame on the safe industry for not better getting this message out in better fashion to the users of their products

Bear

[Winger Ed.]

isn't a shame the amount of $$ folks have wasted by simply not using the correct battery ..and shame on the safe industry for not better getting this message out in better fashion to the users of their products

Well,,,, Like so many other things that come with a manual or instructions, the information isn't really a guarded secret.
All the new locks I've seen & installed come with a booklet telling ya how to take care of them,,,,
and to change the battery every year or at the first sign the lock is acting goofy.

The high end AMSEC ESL 10 or 20 takes two premium brand 9V.
It will work with one good hot one,
but with two, they normally last at least a year with people going in and out/opening it once a day or more.

People have asked if they'll last longer. Sure it will. But if you have any doubts, change it anyway
and save the old one for a smoke detector. It will chirp and tell you when the battery really does get low.

When buying electronic tools or stuff, I looked for ones that took a 9V.
On the job, I had a endless supply of 'gently used' ones that were still good.
All I had to do was rescue them from the trash can.


One thing that doesn't get mentioned or talked about much is that when an electronic lock
hits about 10 years old, it's a real good idea to replace it no matter how well it works right now.

[Kestrel4k]

[...] The other day, I was on Amazon looking to get a small package of AAs.
There was a bunch of complaints about the Energizers not being strong, even right out of the box.
I wonder if it isn't some sort of deal where the 'suspender boys' in the corporate office are trying to save money. [...]
Woudn't surprise me if the change was the offshoring of the manufacturing facility; a brief Google search indicated that Energizers were US-mfg but who really knows on the details; what about their specific 9V line, or 'Made in the USA with imported materials', or whatever.

When I was buying my Zanotti, I enjoyed a few phone calls with the company owner.
He said (this was a while ago), that electronic locks were 10% of their installs, but 90% of their problems.

[MaryB]

At the casino we didn't use combo locks. Everything used a high security magnetic key and locks were randomly changed on the main vault so stealing a key for later use wouldn't work... if you managed to get it out of the building, "losing" it was a firing offense... had to check out your key set start of shift and check it back in end of shift in the security office.

[ulav8r]

Bought some Rayovac batteries at Menards about a year ago. Was several months before I opened them, had gotten a Battery Buddy to store batteries in. As I started putting them in I found a few that were leaking. Checking the packaging found a date of 2021, the batteries were dated 2007. Had 2 leaking batteries out of a package of 48, should have accepted Menards offer of a replacement but the gas to take them back for an exchange is about $36. Did tell Menards that they need to have their buyers check the merchandise they are buying.

Sent Rayovac an email saying I considered that false advertisement as the packaging touts their long life and premium quality. Got no response from them.

[hiram]

I got in touch with the business where I purchased the safe. I have it ten years, He said he recommends changing the electric lock every 7-8 years. He never told me that. Someone who does safe work will call and I'll make an appointment for a S&G dial lock to be installed.

My dad had an American Securities safe (I think that was the name) and the S&G lock worked at least 30 yrs. without a hiccup.

Thank you all for your input.

[Winger Ed.]

and the S&G lock worked at least 30 yrs. without a hiccup.

Keep it out of fires, floods, and resist the urge to spray oil in it-- they just last & last.
I've never seen anyone have 'buyer's remorse' when the got a S&G spin dial.

The S&G on my gunsafe came off a (retired) bank vault that was about 20 years old- maybe more.
It was doing fine, but I took it apart and cleaned it out of guilt & boredom as much as anything.
That was about 20 years ago, I don't open and go in & out a few times a day like the bank did,
but it's still on the job working as well as it did when it was new.

[WILCO]

My electric safe came with a key that opens the safe with the key hole behind the battery.

That's been my experience.

[abunaitoo]

There is a guy on utube that shows how to get into safes.
He did one on a digital safe.
After seeing it, I will never buy a digital safe.
I'll try and find it, and post it.

[Winger Ed.]

There is a guy on utube that shows how to get into safes.
He did one on a digital safe.
After seeing it, I will never buy a digital safe.
I'll try and find it, and post it.

There's several videos on opening those el cheapo safes.
Do a search of 'opening a digital safe lock'.
They are not high security by any means, but are really just fire resistant boxes to keep papers in.
Or, if all you need to keep out of it is little kids.
Even then, they should be bolted to the floor and/or in a corner where it's hard to get tools on it.

However;
If you only have $50. worth of stuff, it's OK to put it in a $50 safe.
Actually, one of those is the only kind of safe I'd want to put a digital lock on.

To see openings on higher security stuff, there's a bunch of youtube videos under 'opening high security safes'.

For regular gun safes with 1/8th inch thick walls, they'll keep most of the high school kids out.
Cutting a hole in the side with a angle grinder & sawz-all is the method of choice.

Nothing is 100%. Not even a posted armed guard.
Safe security is all about time. Making a target hard to attack and breach for longer and longer periods of time,
and needing more and bigger power tools.

Something that has been proven true many times is that the fastest way to open any safe is yelling at the owner with a crazy expression,
and hitting them a few times behind their ear with a .22 pistol.

[MaryB]

There's several videos on opening those el cheapo safes.
Do a search of 'opening a digital safe lock'.
They are not high security by any means, but are really just fire resistant boxes to keep papers in.
Or, if all you need to keep out of it is little kids.
Even then, they should be bolted to the floor and/or in a corner where it's hard to get tools on it.

However;
If you only have $50. worth of stuff, it's OK to put it in a $50 safe.
Actually, one of those is the only kind of safe I'd want to put a digital lock on.

To see openings on higher security stuff, there's a bunch of youtube videos under 'opening high security safes'.

For regular gun safes with 1/8th inch thick walls, they'll keep most of the high school kids out.
Cutting a hole in the side with a angle grinder & sawz-all is the method of choice.

Nothing is 100%. Not even a posted armed guard.
Safe security is all about time. Making a target hard to attack and breach for longer and longer periods of time,
and needing more and bigger power tools.

Something that has been proven true many times is that the fastest way to open any safe is yelling at the owner with a crazy expression,
and hitting them a few times behind their ear with a .22 pistol.

Friend had his safe in his basement with poured concrete walls on 3 sides and top/bottom. High end safe, he had some very expensive full auto stuff...

He was gone for a weekend and a guy he knew broke in, welded large loops to the safe in 8 spots, attached cables and tore it out with a wrecker. He did not know he was on camera the entire time... cost him his tow truck and business, and 10 years in prison! Safe was recovered unopened, guy was cutting on it with a grinder trying to get at the door lock bars and wasn't getting very far. Friends insurance company paid for the house damage and a new safe(was way less than the cost of the guns kept in it!) and went after they thief to recoup the losses. How he lost everything he owned.

If someone wants it bad they will get it out!

[Winger Ed.]

attached cables and tore it out with a wrecker.

We got a call late one night. One of our customers that had one of those 'check-o-cash-o' places had been hit.
The bad guys backed a wrecker in through the store front, got a cable around & under a safe that weighed a little
less than a ton, and was about a 3x3x3 foot cube.

The alarms had time to work, and as they were pulling out- the Police were pulling in.
During the chase, the safe fell off the truck and landed out in the middle of a rather busy street.

The wrecker had crashed, and the Police had managed to push it off to the side of the road with a squad car.

Our mover guy got it loaded, and asked if they wanted him to drop it off at the station for evidence.
"Oh no,,,, we'll just take a couple of pictures and get a statement."

Except for a little road rash and chipped paint, the safe was OK.
The next day the owner came in and got his money out of it. We repainted it, gave it a quick tune up,
and delivered it back to him at his new location.

[45_Colt]

We got a call late one night. One of our customers that had one of those 'check-o-cash-o' places had been hit...

We repainted it, gave it a quick tune up, and delivered it back to him at his new location.

Good story, good ending, that in blue sums this up. Seems a lot of folks are moving away from those areas.

45_Colt