New to the Dillon XL750...help

[dearslayer]

Hey folks. I made the leap and pulled the trigger on the XL750. I'm still in the process of mounting it to the bench and setting it up and making adjustments. It appears that I'm getting some rubbing/contact of the two parts in the attached photo. I'm not sure if there is an adjustment that can prevent contact. I have painters tape on the one part for now because it was starting to leave a mark in the metal. Might seem a bit minor but for a brand new machine I want it running without contact on these to parts. When I lift the ram it clears but it touches when lowering the ram. Is there an adjustment I'm missing?314714314715314716314717

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[Txcowboy52]

I’m not familiar with the 750, I have the 650 and mine doesn’t have that design. I would contact Dilion. My experience has been very positive with their customer service.

[jmorris]

Take a look at page 43-44 of the manual, if you move the platform, you effect the priming system, doing so.

[dillonhelp]

there is a bit of play where the two primer housing mounting studs come through the frame. Loosen the two thumbscrews, push the housing to the left, and hold it there while you retighten the thumbscrews.

[jmorris]

I’m not familiar with the 750, I have the 650 and mine doesn’t have that design. I would contact Dilion. My experience has been very positive with their customer service.

Positive enough they go looking for customers who have questions but won’t call them. ;)

[dearslayer]

there is a bit of play where the two primer housing mounting studs come through the frame. Loosen the two thumbscrews, push the housing to the left, and hold it there while you retighten the thumbscrews.

I did do this the other day and I gained just enough space that it doesn't touch now. It's very close but at least not touching for now but I have yet to run it. Haven't had a lot of time.

[dearslayer]

So as unbelievable as this sounds I am yet still in the process of setting up this press! Had some issues trying to set the proper case expansion. Seems that I would get the expansion set where it need to be for my cast boolits but when I tightened things down the expansion would be too much! Anyway I think I have it dialed in to be acceptable for now but now the problem is the powder drop. Couldn't figure out why I couldn't get any powder to drop! The bracket was hanging up on the body of the measure preventing it from sliding all the way forward. I had to bend it a little to get it to clear but now with the handle all the way forward the charge bar won't return all the way home without me actually pulling on it by hand. Not sure what the issue is now.

[dearslayer]

This is where it was hanging up. The wide part of the bracket was catching where I have the it indicated with a small circle. The second photo was taken from the net as a reference to what it should look like. 314948314949

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[JimB..]

Not sure if it's related to your problem, are the bolts that clamp the powder measure to the powder die loose? Not finger tight, not snug, but loose?

If the powder funnel is not moving consistently you can’t get a consistent expansion of the case.

You bent what exactly?

Charge bar not returning can be the wingnut on the safety bar not being tightened enough.

Running for a flight so can’t go look at a press right now, but hope that gets you started.

[oldsman]

the fail safe rod with the wing nut , hold the handle in the primer seat position and adjust the wing nut so the spring is compressed to half to 3/4 . this should give you full pull back on the powder measure . the rod should go through the bracket first then the plastic spring retainer than spring then the wingnut . look at the photo in the manual to make sure everything is in the right place

[dearslayer]

Not sure if it's related to your problem, are the bolts that clamp the powder measure to the powder die loose? Not finger tight, not snug, but loose?

If the powder funnel is not moving consistently you can’t get a consistent expansion of the case.

You bent what exactly?

Charge bar not returning can be the wingnut on the safety bar not being tightened enough.

Running for a flight so can’t go look at a press right now, but hope that gets you started.
I would have the die adjusted where I would have say 0.014 of flare and the hold everything in place to tighten the die nut and everything else and run a case through and the flare would be 0.024, and I would have moved nothing! I followed the Dillon and ,76highboy's videos on set up to the letter and still it would be the same result.
The bolts on the powder measure clamp are tight. The plastic wing nut is adjusted as per instructions ( business card etc ).
I get a powder drop but for some reason the bar does not advance all the way forward. The handle is all the way but I can actually pull the bar forward all the way by hand after the handle is all the way forward as if seating a primer. Isn't the bar suppose to travel the full length of travel with the handle being pushed all the way forward?

I had to walk away from it last night because it was becoming very frustrating.

[dearslayer]

Ok I think it's working now. I was adjusting the wing nut before when the bracket was stuck on the powder drop body. Once I bent the bracket a little bit so that it was no longer sticking on the body it meant the charge bar was moving forward further but it also meant that I had to readjust the wing nut which I never did. I was just about to go out for breakfast when I thought I'd go take another quick look. It seems when you have a clear head with less frustration things seem to be a little more obvious. Thanks for the suggestion guys. I'm sure I'll have more questions as I'm not fully set up yet.

[dearslayer]

I'm sure this also affected the reason why I couldn't get the proper case expansion. Now that the bracket is no longer stuck on the body I think I'll go back and readjust everything.

[Finster101]

Dillon's website has some very good videos on setting up and adjusting the press.

[JimB..]

The cap screws on the powder measure clamp should NOT be tight.

Also, tighten the wing nut on the failsafe rod until you get full movement of the powder charging bar. You must put a case in the station to test this.

Again, sorry that I don’t have it in front of me to provide better direction.

[dearslayer]

The cap screws on the powder measure clamp should NOT be tight.

Also, tighten the wing nut on the failsafe rod until you get full movement of the powder charging bar. You must put a case in the station to test this.

Again, sorry that I don’t have it in front of me to provide better direction.See my earlier post. I got it working finally. The problem was that I didn't adjust the wingnut AFTER I got the bracket away from the powder body. Once I got it away from hanging up on the body then the wingnut was loose and needed to be adjusted AGAIN, but I had forgot to do that last night. My thinking at the time was that ok I already adjusted the wingnut! Away it's working ok now. I did about 60 rounds ( very slow) to see how it went. I did have about 6 rounds whereby the primers were not seated far enough and 2 rounds that the primer went sideways. It's picking the primers up ok now ( it wasn't originally and I had to adjust it ) but they are tight going into the cases and I can feel them not going in easily but they are those Ginsex primers. They are a little larger than CCI. Plus I think the shell plate is indexing the case off by just a hair so that it's not quite center over the priming cup.
Hope what I'm saying is making some sense and I'm not mudding the water.


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[dearslayer]

So an update to my frustrations. I've been extremely busy dealing with life matters and I haven't had much time to play with my new toy the 750. It seems like I'm dealing with the same issue of either having too much flare on my case or not enough. If it's too much my cast boolits won't stand up straight and they just want to fall over resulting in me having to hold each and every boolit while it goes up into the seating die. If I have too little flare it ends up shaving my powder coated boolits. What are my options? I'm at the point where I'm not really enjoying this new press. I'm sure once I get the bugs worked out it will be an awesome machine but right now I'm just really frustrated.

[garandsrus]

You really need someone with experience to help you set up the press. You have had way too many problems, most of which are related to the powder drop station. The problems are due to lack of experience with the press. The powder drop station is really pretty simple, the powder bar slides forward and backward, that’s it! You adjust it at the top via the powder die and the bottom via the spring nut.

You didn’t say if you are loading pistol or rifle, and the setup is different for each. I assume you are loading pistol since the Dillon powder dies don’t flair the case mouth for rifle calibers, unless you have a custom powder die. I think the problem you are having is that the powder bar is not going far enough forward, resulting in inconsistencies. For powder dies that flair the case, the charge bar should hit the end of the slide or channel before the handle is all the way down. As you continue to lower the handle, the shell plate will keep rising and the powder die is forced into the case and does the expansion/flairing. The flair will be very consistent. To increase the flair, lower the powder die, to decrease the flair, raise the powder die.

For powder funnels that done enter the case mouth (rifle), the powder bar should stop just before the end of the channel at the top of the stroke. If you have it set up like expanding funnels, it will crush the cases.

The piece on the powder die that was preventing the powder die from coming back is intentional! It is part of the design that prevents a double charge unless the handle is completely lowered. Pulling on the rod will pull that piece out of the way and the powder measure will complete its trip back to the starting point. The wing nut at the bottom is adjusted so the powder bar returns to its starting point. If it’s not all the way back, shorten the length of the rod by turning the nut in. If you can’t push the handle forward enough to seat primers, the rod is too short and you should turn the nut out. I set the rod so that when seating the primers, the spring is mostly compressed, but not all the way.

Good luck…. Once you understand how the press is supposed to work, you will love it! There is a learning curve though and you are still towards the beginning of it.

If you have FaceTime, you are welcome to call me and we can setup your press while we are on a video call. It could save a lot of frustration…. Send a PM with your info.

[dearslayer]

You really need someone with experience to help you set up the press. You have had way too many problems, most of which are related to the powder drop station. The problems are due to lack of experience with the press. The powder drop station is really pretty simple, the powder bar slides forward and backward, that’s it! You adjust it at the top via the powder die and the bottom via the spring nut.

You didn’t say if you are loading pistol or rifle, and the setup is different for each. I assume you are loading pistol since the Dillon powder dies don’t flair the case mouth for rifle calibers, unless you have a custom powder die. I think the problem you are having is that the powder bar is not going far enough forward, resulting in inconsistencies. For powder dies that flair the case, the charge bar should hit the end of the slide or channel before the handle is all the way down. As you continue to lower the handle, the shell plate will keep rising and the powder die is forced into the case and does the expansion/flairing. The flair will be very consistent. To increase the flair, lower the powder die, to decrease the flair, raise the powder die.

For powder funnels that done enter the case mouth (rifle), the powder bar should stop just before the end of the channel at the top of the stroke. If you have it set up like expanding funnels, it will crush the cases.

The piece on the powder die that was preventing the powder die from coming back is intentional! It is part of the design that prevents a double charge unless the handle is completely lowered. Pulling on the rod will pull that piece out of the way and the powder measure will complete its trip back to the starting point. The wing nut at the bottom is adjusted so the powder bar returns to its starting point. If it’s not all the way back, shorten the length of the rod by turning the nut in. If you can’t push the handle forward enough to seat primers, the rod is too short and you should turn the nut out. I set the rod so that when seating the primers, the spring is mostly compressed, but not all the way.

Good luck…. Once you understand how the press is supposed to work, you will love it! There is a learning curve though and you are still towards the beginning of it.

If you have FaceTime, you are welcome to call me and we can setup your press while we are on a video call. It could save a lot of frustration…. Send a PM with your info.

Sorry for the late reply. Thanks for the offer. Yes I'm trying to load 9mm. I tried to reload a few rounds again last night and again it ended in frustration.. now with another issue. Hahahaha. Can't seem to win. It seems as though the boolit is being pulled back out of the case at the crimping station. I'm using Lee dies with a FCD. I'm gonna take the dies back out and clean them and start over. I'll see what happens and if it goes south again I'll PM you.

[garandsrus]

If the bullet is being pulled out at the crimp, which doesn’t make sense, your sizing die is not sizing the cases enough. The crimp die is also not set correctly! There should be enough neck tension that the bullet is hard to pull out and certainly can’t be done by hand.

[dearslayer]

I noticed that after loading about 20-30 rounds the handle was getting harder to pull back like something was sticking. I just removed the crimp die and there was quite a bit of brass shavings. I haven't cleaned in it some time. I had all the dies out to reinstall and haven't put them all back yet. Will do it in just a bit. Will report back soon. Also I had a Dillon dealer tell me today that I should be using case lube on the cases and that things will be that much easier. What are your thoughts?

[Dave W.]

Spraying Horniday One Shot on the cases will make things easier. I generally run pistol cases dry, but to each their own. I prefer Dillon dies, have had less problems with them than any others. Generally when the handle is hard to pull back, the ram needs lubed. There is a learning curve, but when it is set up, they are nice to run.

[dearslayer]

I happened to have a new bottle of Frankfort Arsenal Case Lube from a couple years ago that I never did use so I'm gonna spray a bunch of cases to see if it makes a difference.Would the ram need lubing on a brand new press?? I thought that would have been done at the factory no?? Unfortunately Dillon dies are out of the question as they can't be had anywhere. The dillon dealer I was at today said it would likely be 2 years before we saw Dillon dies here in Canada.I"m considering a set of Lyman dies though.

https://www.lymanproducts.com/brands/lyman/dies-die-sets/pistol-die-sets/lyman-premium-carbide-4-die-sets

[oldsman]

first in case I missed it , what are you loading ?
how do you clean your brass wet or dry . if it is wet it causes more friction on the size die
too lube brass , poor a layer in a cardboard box and give it a couple of spirts and shake box than let dry for a few minutes you dont need much
lubing the ram , use motor oil or you can use gun oil just apply a thin coat , in your dillon manual will have all the recomending lube points and wich lube to use
on your dies , if you cant get dillon try Redding , but if the only problem is the crimp you can buy just a standard crimp die
if can you mail order like from Graf an Sons they are a dillon dealer .I dont know the deal with shipping to Canada , you have read their shipping details
also are you checking your size case with a case gage and than your finished round

[oldsman]

forget shipping from Graf but Dillon will ship , you would have to call for details and priceing

[dillonhelp]

All Dillon loaders are lubricated fully during the assembly process, motor oil on the shaft, grease everywhere else. If the loader has sat on a delaer's shelf for a few months before purchase, a bit of motor oil on the shaft might be needed. But otherwise no lubrication would be necessary.

[JimB..]

I noticed that after loading about 20-30 rounds the handle was getting harder to pull back like something was sticking. I just removed the crimp die and there was quite a bit of brass shavings. I haven't cleaned in it some time. I had all the dies out to reinstall and haven't put them all back yet. Will do it in just a bit. Will report back soon. Also I had a Dillon dealer tell me today that I should be using case lube on the cases and that things will be that much easier. What are your thoughts?

Look at your sized brass, do you see scratches or gouges running the length of the case? I had this happen with a new die, apparently some of the diamond paste hadn’t gotten washed out from when the carbide was polished and those bits started grabbing the brass. As the brass built up in the die the press got a little harder to operate. Wasn’t hard to fix, and brass wasn’t ruined, just something to look for.

[David2011]

I happened to have a new bottle of Frankfort Arsenal Case Lube from a couple years ago that I never did use so I'm gonna spray a bunch of cases to see if it makes a difference.Would the ram need lubing on a brand new press?? I thought that would have been done at the factory no?? Unfortunately Dillon dies are out of the question as they can't be had anywhere. The dillon dealer I was at today said it would likely be 2 years before we saw Dillon dies here in Canada.I"m considering a set of Lyman dies though.

https://www.lymanproducts.com/brands/lyman/dies-die-sets/pistol-die-sets/lyman-premium-carbide-4-die-sets

You will probably be able to notice a big difference with even the smallest amount of case lube. I’ve spray lubed a handful and tossed them into the case feeder that was already mostly full of unlubed cases. Just one every now and then keeps the dies lubed nicely.

[dearslayer]

Look at your sized brass, do you see scratches or gouges running the length of the case? I had this happen with a new die, apparently some of the diamond paste hadn’t gotten washed out from when the carbide was polished and those bits started grabbing the brass. As the brass built up in the die the press got a little harder to operate. Wasn’t hard to fix, and brass wasn’t ruined, just something to look for.
Thanks. These dies are more than a few years old now.

[dearslayer]

You will probably be able to notice a big difference with even the smallest amount of case lube. I’ve spray lubed a handful and tossed them into the case feeder that was already mostly full of unlubed cases. Just one every now and then keeps the dies lubed nicely.
I tried the lube with the result being not much different. Sticking a little less but still does the "clunk" when it pulls away from the plug.

[dearslayer]

All Dillon loaders are lubricated fully during the assembly process, motor oil on the shaft, grease everywhere else. If the loader has sat on a delaer's shelf for a few months before purchase, a bit of motor oil on the shaft might be needed. But otherwise no lubrication would be necessary.

Thanks. I'll apply a few drops on the shaft .

[Dave W.]

I tried the lube with the result being not much different. Sticking a little less but still does the "clunk" when it pulls away from the plug.

By plug, do you mean the expander die? If so, try putting just a little bit of bullet lube on the expander portion, or some kind of wax. It will need reapplied frequently. I have also wiped the sides of my nose and put the skin oil on the expander.

Tried an experiment today when loading on a 650, by spraying Horniday One Shot case lube on the cases in the case feeder. It made a noticeable difference when pulling the handle down. I may just make using it a normal thing.

[dearslayer]

By plug, do you mean the expander die? If so, try putting just a little bit of bullet lube on the expander portion, or some kind of wax. It will need reapplied frequently. I have also wiped the sides of my nose and put the skin oil on the expander.

Tried an experiment today when loading on a 650, by spraying Horniday One Shot case lube on the cases in the case feeder. It made a noticeable difference when pulling the handle down. I may just make using it a normal thing.

Yes I do mean the expander die. I'm using the DDA boolit feeder powder funnel.

[oldsman]

that is a common issue with the DDA powder funnel , best you can do is polish it but it will still stick but not as bad

[oldsman]

there is another company making these at http://photoescapeinc.com
never tried one so dont know how they are , they look like a better finish product
if the link dont work just search photoescape inc . they have a note that they are away for july and ship when they get back

the problem with the DDA is tooling marks on the surface , if you run your fingernail across the surface you should feel the ridges

[David2011]

By plug, do you mean the expander die? If so, try putting just a little bit of bullet lube on the expander portion, or some kind of wax. It will need reapplied frequently. I have also wiped the sides of my nose and put the skin oil on the expander.

Tried an experiment today when loading on a 650, by spraying Horniday One Shot case lube on the cases in the case feeder. It made a noticeable difference when pulling the handle down. I may just make using it a normal thing.

Another option to spraying lube into the case feeder is to spray a portion of the brass and letting it dry before adding it to the feeder. It doesn’t eliminate collecting lube in the feeder but it sure slows it down. I’ve been doing it that way for several years.

[JimB..]

there is another company making these at http://photoescapeinc.com
never tried one so dont know how they are , they look like a better finish product
if the link dont work just search photoescape inc . they have a note that they are away for july and ship when they get back

the problem with the DDA is tooling marks on the surface , if you run your fingernail across the surface you should feel the ridges

There is no difference between these and DAA, this is where DAA gets theirs. I know only because I asked DAA for one in 41 mag and they said that they don’t sell enough to stock but that their supplier has them and pointed me to them.

[garandsrus]

That site had several interesting products. Some of them looked like solutions for problems that don’t exist, but I only have a 550 and 650, not a 750.