food grade grease

[lead chucker]

I wonder how food grade grease would work for patch lube? I work at a place that sells food grade pump grease to the local canneries during commercial fishing season. I believe it a mineral base oil. Some times it goes out date and we write it off and throw it away. I know you want to stay away from petroleum base stuff, not sure what mineral oil is.

[wch]

Mineral oil is a petroleum distillate.

[LAGS]

When I first started shooting M L 's back in the ' 70's
I used Crisco for my ball lube.
I have a chewing tobacco can full of it in my box that I take to the range as a back up.

[stubshaft]

+1 on Crisco or plain old lard.

[Outpost75]

USDA H1 food grade grease is a Mineral Oil USP base with calcium hydroxystearate thickener.

[BLAHUT]

I wonder how food grade grease would work for patch lube? I work at a place that sells food grade pump grease to the local canneries during commercial fishing season. I believe it a mineral base oil. Some times it goes out date and we write it off and throw it away. I know you want to stay away from petroleum base stuff, not sure what mineral oil is.

I am new to true black, why no petroleum based lube ???? I use it with my black substitutes.

[Rockingkj]

Found this reference on the muzzleloader forum.

“Necchi
Cannon MLF Supporter
May 13, 2012
#2
I use petroleum oils (gun oil) to lube the locks and triggers all the time.

The problem is with alot of oil left on the bore,
Now I still do use gun oil and other oils to protect the bore after cleaning, I'm just carefull to clean it out before shooting.
Simply put;
By-products of the powder burning and petroleum oils mixed with the heat of ignition combine to become a hard tar like substance that can plug rifling and be really hard to clean out.
It can become a particular problem in the breech/fire channel area, if that hard stuff get's in there it can plug or restrict the fire channel and cause poor, even failed ignition”


Necchi knows his stuff

[challenger_i]

The old Lyman manuals, in the black powder section, mention the aftereffects of using petroleum lubricants and over-ball sealant (revolvers).
They specifically point out the issues with the formation of tar products and the difficulties of removing said tars.

I only shoot BP revolvers. My favorite lube/ball seal is anhydrous lanolin, or lard. Have had extremely good luck with those items.

[gunther]

Been shooting the same ROA stainless for nearly 40 years. Used Ford moly ep for lube since day one. If it causes a buildup of tar like substances, they are not enough to slow you down. Cleanup is with warm water, and CLP after it's dry. This is in eastern Ky high humidity.
A rifle may be a different set of problems, but I've pulled 50 cal maxiballs lubed with TC lube twice in a 24 hour period. A slide hammer is great if they are stuck close to the muzzle. Somebody else's gun.

[Battis]

I spray the patches and bore with the vegetable spray PAM. Each shot smells like popcorn.

[GregLaROCHE]

You can use plain spit too.

[LAGS]

Plain spit works great on patches if you do it while you are shooting.
But you can't pre lube patches and have them ready to load an hour later.
But Do Not put the lead ball in your mouth to lube it up too.
After time , you will get sick.
I have seen Air Rifle shooters doing that with lead pellets.
Lead poisoning isn't too good for the body