Which diesel additive

[Thumbcocker]

We have 2 small diesel tractors, 35 and 45 hp, the 35hp (Oliver Super 55) was inherented from my father. It had the dreaded black goo in the fuel system. It is almost back together after a full engine rebuild. What diesel additive should I use to avoid a return of the black goo?

Thanks

[shdwlkr]

For decades i have used power service with good results in my diesel engines, but really anyone would be better than nothing

[Txcowboy52]

+1 for Power Services, have also used for several years and it works!

[pete501]

Years ago we had the dreaded diesel Oldsmobile. We used to buy cheap fuel in Mexico and would store it in 55 gal drums. The black goo might be algae growth. Biobor was what we used for this plus an added Racor water separator/filter.

[FISH4BUGS]

I drove Mercedes diesels for 35 years. I used nothing but Howe's and even put 425,000 miles on one.

[Screwbolts]

the Black goo in diesel fuel is most defiantly Black algae! and Power server or Howe"s will do nothing to prohibit its growth. it is very common issue in seasonal use equipment. and a real pain.

Regardless of how many miles one has on there vehicle or how many years one has used P S or Howes, Black algae is a problem if you get some contaminated fuel.

Most auto part stores sell an algicide product specifically for diesel fuel and it matters not what color your diesel fuel is. Once you tank has been introduced to a batch of fuel with algae growth in it, only an algicide will kill the algae but you still have to filter the dead algae out, eliminate the black goo.

If your local auto parts store doesnt have the algicide for diesel then go to a fuel oil supplier and get it there.

Your old Oliver was designed for fuel with sulfur in it to lubricate the injection pump and injectors. you tractor most likely has a Wakashaw engine with a Rossamaster injection pump. You can use anything from clean used engine oil to the already suggested additive for lubrication in the crappy LS fuel.

[Hannibal]

As others mentioned earlier, all I ever used was PowerService. I bought my fuel from reputable stations and added it year 'round as my diesel was a '92 7.3 and it was suggested after the switch to low sulphur diesel.

Sold it at 420K miles after the body rotted off so I guess I did something right. Never did a thing to it besides change oil and filters and replace the fuel return lines twice.

[dverna]

You need a biocide. I order mine online. It is not cheap but a little goes a long way.

Screwbolts gave you good advice.

[M-Tecs]

Lots of options

https://powerservice.com/psp_product/bio-kleen-diesel-fuel-biocide/?utm_source=reachlocal&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=sempowerserviceproductsfueltankhygien e&scid=4029419&kw=24162967:0&pub_cr_id=80676786250342&network=o&device=c&targetid=kwd-80676908700640:aud-811591043:loc-190&loc_interest_ms=&loc_physical_ms=109337&tc=9e6874bdf9de19f90a9e10df8d992790&rl_key=9490c4fa5faf0c84142818d2303fc2f1

https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c/killem/chemicals---fluids/maintenance-chemicals/fuel-system/diesel-additive/ea91b09b61ab/fppf-killem-biocide-additive/fpp4/00119

https://www.amazon.com/BIOBOR-Diesel-Fuel-Additive-Supplement/dp/B0014434DG

https://www.amazon.com/s?k=biocide+for+diesel+fuel&adgrpid=1335907194878421&hvadid=83494448346985&hvbmt=be&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=109337&hvnetw=o&hvqmt=e&hvtargid=kwd-83494552525945%3Aloc-190&hydadcr=6397_13218896&tag=mh0b-20&ref=pd_sl_5eu0efu7u0_e

https://swift.archoil.com/?utm_source=facebook&utm_medium=cpm&utm_campaign=swift_archoil_FB&fbclid=IwAR0e-CXbqHWrKDeEwx0Zw00o0g49r1-sHzGPLRM75D9uwRqRnuWlmfi3soo

This is the one I use. https://www.amazon.com/BIOBOR-Diesel-Fuel-Additive-Supplement/dp/B0014434DG/ref=sr_1_4?crid=3I2AD4WVSHCHD&keywords=Fuel+Biocide+Supplement&qid=1684174651&sprefix=fuel+biocide+supplement%2Caps%2C131&sr=8-4

The only issue that I have is one oz does 80 gallons and my tank is 24 gallons.

[tommag]

I'm sure many algaecides will work, but I've had good results with fppf killem. When you use any algaecide, keep a few spare filters on hand. The dead algea will look like coffee grounds and plug the filter quickly. In older diesel engines, some type of lubricity additive is a good idea to keep the fuel pump from wearing out as well.

[Brokenbear]

Definitely steam clean your tanks and lines if you know it is full of junk... ANY kind then use these two items .. owned a fleet of diesels before I retired and I can tell you I let the drivers pick their diesel treatment and after two hard winters in a row the only rigs that could run in the below zero cold were the ones running Howes diesel Treat and never injector problems ..the fleet went 100% Howes after that
I used a fleet contract fuel service but they guaranteed no algae which they did directly in their huge tanks with 55 gallon drums of Howes Algaecide that they once had in consumer size bottles but no longer ..
I would bet the "Farm Meaner Cleaner" has the algae treatment in.

https://www.howesproducts.com/products/meaner-power-kleaner

https://www.howesproducts.com/products/diesel-treat

On my farm tractors I run the Mean clean year round and the Diesel Treat September thu March

Happy farming
Bear

[rancher1913]

just buy real diesel, absolutely no bio-diesel and you wont have the problem. you will need to ask for it at a fuel supplier, the stuff from gas station pumps all have the bio-diesel, no farmer in his right mind will buy the bio stuff due to them needing to store it for extended periods of time, i have 5 year old real diesel thats still good.

[Cast10]

Our Ultra Low Sulphur Diesel is DRY. Our diesel standards are much lower in the US than in EU, and lots of systems are made in EU! Lubricity is what you need. Stanadyne Lubricity Formula at Tractor Supply.

[M-Tecs]

Our Ultra Low Sulphur Diesel is DRY. Our diesel standards are much lower in the US than in EU, and lots of systems are made in EU! Lubricity is what you need. Stanadyne Lubricity Formula at Tractor Supply.

A friend purchased a diesel Mercedes-Benz van for him and his wife to tour the US. It's one of the really tall ones that they can stand up in. I believe it is a 2019. It is not biodiesel compatible. They can't take it to some of the mid-western states since the only fuel available at the pump is biodiesel. They also have to plot their course to ensure they can fill will regular diesel.

Additives may or may not work to run biodiesel in it but Mercedes-Benz's states no to any biodiesel period.

[john.k]

I once was able to get free stale aviation kerosine .....this was the very worst Ive ever had for fuel fungus ......and is the reason, I gather, that planes must be drained and refilled with fresh fuel every 30 days.....Anyhoo,a lot of people around the airport ran cars and trucks (like 8 ton trucks) on free aviation kero.......Potentially a massive penalty ,but as far as I know only bulk users have ever been caught by the Excise .

[alfadan]

I've heard some guys add a tiny bit of gasoline to keep the algae from growing.

[john.k]

When I quit the refinery ,I took precautions while I still had my pump key ,and managed to get enough diesel to last 5 years .......knowing it would be stored for years ,I put a bottle of boat service biocide in every drum.........the last drop was as good as the first ,and I sure missed free fuel........everyone in the oil co used to get free fuel ,and just after I left the Feds cracked down on it,and the free fuel was cut off ......no excise paid,only to be used inside the refinery site by contractors.

[Thumbcocker]

just buy real diesel, absolutely no bio-diesel and you wont have the problem. you will need to ask for it at a fuel supplier, the stuff from gas station pumps all have the bio-diesel, no farmer in his right mind will buy the bio stuff due to them needing to store it for extended periods of time, i have 5 year old real diesel thats still good.

I have tried but all diesel around here has some bio in it. The local bulk distributor carries it but won't sell in small quantities. I usually only keep 10-15 gallons on hand. That will do a lot of the work we do around our place. I just can't justify a bulk tank for 2 small tractors.

[GregLaROCHE]

Years ago we had the dreaded diesel Oldsmobile. We used to buy cheap fuel in Mexico and would store it in 55 gal drums. The black goo might be algae growth. Biobor was what we used for this plus an added Racor water separator/filter.

I’ve used additives in the Arctic to keep diesel from gelling and others in the tropics to keep down algae growth, but one of the best things you can do is add a Raycor type drainable filter.

[.429&H110]

People hook up oil tanks to oil burners with 3/8 copper.
The black goo will stopper it solid.
I used "DieselPep" and a handpump to push the crud back.
Then added a spin-on filter after the old "filter".
The cellulose filter is the water trap, and the spin-on catches fines.
Trouble with spinons, is a little water will plug them up,
but a cellulose filter will pass nice clean water.

Beware cleaning an old oil tank!
The black goo is plugging up the pin holes!

[samari46]

Power Service does make a fuel system cleaner and also an algicide for diesels. Use both in my diesel fuel for my Kubota. Frank

[rancher1913]

how sad is it that the consumer has to add stuff to a product to keep it from ruining their equipment

[Soundguy]

We have 2 small diesel tractors, 35 and 45 hp, the 35hp (Oliver Super 55) was inherented from my father. It had the dreaded black goo in the fuel system. It is almost back together after a full engine rebuild. What diesel additive should I use to avoid a return of the black goo?

Thanks

if the black goo is biologicals.. then the real deal is to get rid of water.. that means using something with a dispersant.. and ov course.. not letting water get in your fuel tank in the first place , at least as much as possible anyway. There are biocides by power service, and dispersants.. but the plain white bottle ain't it. Likely need the white n green bottle and the silver.

[MaryB]

Local co-op cardtrol(no station attendant, all automated with a fuel card) pumps have real diesel for off road use only... I see people with older diesel trucks using it tho! They also have non-ethanol gas at the pumps for lawnmowers etc. The guys with classic cars all fill up with it.

[jonp]

Years ago we had the dreaded diesel Oldsmobile. We used to buy cheap fuel in Mexico and would store it in 55 gal drums. The black goo might be algae growth. Biobor was what we used for this plus an added Racor water separator/filter.

That's what I was thinking. Only remedy is to completely clean the fuel system and that includes removing the tank, getting all the fuel out and thoroughly cleaning it before reinstallation.

Power Service Bio Kleen is what a couple of companies I've worked for used on their trucks.

[jonp]

Local co-op cardtrol(no station attendant, all automated with a fuel card) pumps have real diesel for off road use only... I see people with older diesel trucks using it tho! They also have non-ethanol gas at the pumps for lawnmowers etc. The guys with classic cars all fill up with it.

It's cheaper but don't get caught on by any DOT using it for on-highway use. A number of states randomly pull people in and dip the tanks to look for color. Fine is pretty hefty.

[jonp]

A friend purchased a diesel Mercedes-Benz van for him and his wife to tour the US. It's one of the really tall ones that they can stand up in. I believe it is a 2019. It is not biodiesel compatible. They can't take it to some of the mid-western states since the only fuel available at the pump is biodiesel. They also have to plot their course to ensure they can fill will regular diesel.

Additives may or may not work to run biodiesel in it but Mercedes-Benz's no to any biodiesel period.

I'd never heard that, interesting. You can buy additives to add back in the lubricity to the fuel, I wonder if that would take care of the problem

[M-Tecs]

I'd never heard that, interesting. You can buy additives to add back in the lubricity to the fuel, I wonder if that would take care of the problem


Per Mercedes-Benz USA 2023 guidance they are now allowing 5% Bio. I've never seen 5% Bio at the pump unless it is an off road use pump. Different areas are different but in corn country 15% is normally the minimum (MN is 20% in the summer). On a side note, my baby Duramax allows 20% Bio. I try to find non-Bio but at times 20% is the only option.

Mercedes-Benz USA approves the use of B5 according to ASTM specification D975 [Ultra-Low Sulphur Diesel (ULSD) with
a maximum of up to 5% biodiesel] in all Common Rail Injection (CDI) and BlueTEC® diesel engines.
The only approved processed biodiesel for B5 blending is one that meets the ASTM D6751 specification, to prevent
damage to the engine and fuel system from deposits and/or corrosion.
The use of diesel fuels containing a higher percentage of biodiesel, (B6 to B20) according to ASTM D7467 as well as
straight biodiesel (B100) according to ASTM D6751 may cause severe damage to your engine and fuel system, and are not
approved by Mercedes-Benz.
The Mercedes-Benz New Vehicle Limited Warranty generally does not cover damage caused by the use of fuels that do not
meet Mercedes-Benz approved fuel standards.
If customers cannot avoid the use of biodiesel fuel between B6 and B20, it’s critical for them to monitor their engine oil
level and engine running performance.
Customers of Mercedes-Benz vehicles must use only qualified commercial brand fuels that meet Mercedes-Benz approved
fuel standards. Biodiesel fuel from non-name brand stations must not be used.

[MaryB]

It's cheaper but don't get caught on by any DOT using it for on-highway use. A number of states randomly pull people in and dip the tanks to look for color. Fine is pretty hefty.

50 cents a gallon higher in price so running it on road doesn't make sense unless you have an older vehicle. Running non ethanol gas in a modern engine will destroy the cat converter... it has additives that do major damage. Local co-op accidentally got it in the wrong tank up at their shop and killed 4 cat converters on shop trucks. New guy doing bulk delivery screwed up.

[Soundguy]

Hmm.. Non-E gas damaging cat's? Google doesn't seem to back up that statement..in fact it disagrees with it outright...

[M-Tecs]

Hmm.. Non-E gas damaging cat's? Google doesn't seem to back up that statement..in fact it disagrees with it outright...

I think there's some confusion between leaded gas and ethanol free gas. Leaded gas and cat's don't mix but today about the only source to leaded gas is aviation fuel, racing fuel or off-road use.

[Shawlerbrook]

+ all the above for Power Service. Works great in my NH tractor.

[TurnipEaterDown]

Running non ethanol gas in a modern engine will destroy the cat converter... it has additives that do major damage.

Something else happened in your related experience.

Gasoline with Ethanol (10 -15%), or "straight" gasoline w/o oxygenated additives, is available in various markets for use in on road automotive application. ALL "modern" US Market automobiles w/ gasoline engines can use either the EPA approved oxygenated blends or "straight" gasoline.
The blend of oxygenates depends on Market and Season, and is mandated in some specific aspects by the US EPA.

Leaded fuel (gasoline containing tetraethyllead) will "poison" a catalytic converter. "Recreational fuel" can, and in some instances does, contain TEL to this day.
There are also other additives that can "poison" a modern automotive gasoline IC engine catalyst, but "pure" gasoline can not.

I have relevant professional experience to make this statement.

[firefly1957]

Thank you for the timely post last June I bought my first diesel engine in a 2001 New Holland LS 180 skid steer and am having some issues with fuel just starting.
I hade bought road fuel as the engine does say low sulfur fuel and at the time it was cheaper then off road fuel. I just added some fuel conditioner* and it is starting much better I will look for algicide next .

* I forget the name of the conditioner it is from Walmart and in a semi clear bottle for gas and diesel it really helps in my gas lawn tractor with easier starts .

[dverna]

Thank you for the timely post last June I bought my first diesel engine in a 2001 New Holland LS 180 skid steer and am having some issues with fuel just starting.
I hade bought road fuel as the engine does say low sulfur fuel and at the time it was cheaper then off road fuel. I just added some fuel conditioner* and it is starting much better I will look for algicide next .

* I forget the name of the conditioner it is from Walmart and in a semi clear bottle for gas and diesel it really helps in my gas lawn tractor with easier starts .

I use three additives. A biocide, a product to remove water from the fuel, and an anti-gel. The anti-gel is not needed in the summer, but I buy 50 gallons at a time and add it case I still have fuel in the storage tank when winter hits.

I am anal about it. But my tractor fuel can sit for months. I go through 100 gallons a year, so the added cost is minor to the cost of a problem. When I had a diesel pickup (2010 Ford), I never added anything but anti-gel in the winter and it was fine. No "gunk" issues in six years but it ran fresh fuel regularly. IMO having fuel sit for long periods might have a bearing on it.

OTOH, my neighbor uses less fuel than I do, and does not use additives. He has not had a problem...yet. He laughs at me for wasting money.

Anyway, my cost for 100 gallons works out to.
Biocide $12
Water disperser $8
Anti-gel $12

$32 ($.32/gal) for peace of mind and to protect a $30,000 tractor. And with my luck, I would have the problem happen when I had 12" of snow to clear. BTW, like you, I purchase off road as it is $.50 cheaper.

[rancher1913]

i dont understand the posts about dyed fuel being more expensive than regular diesel, the whole idea is that the taxes are removed so it should always be cheaper. around here its about 75 cent cheaper, are you guys sure its not kerosene, that gets dyed also and is significantly more than diesel.

[MaryB]

I think there's some confusion between leaded gas and ethanol free gas. Leaded gas and cat's don't mix but today about the only source to leaded gas is aviation fuel, racing fuel or off-road use.

This is leaded, only one they carry for off road use(or use in classic cars with a collector plate).

[MaryB]

Something else happened in your related experience.

Gasoline with Ethanol (10 -15%), or "straight" gasoline w/o oxygenated additives, is available in various markets for use in on road automotive application. ALL "modern" US Market automobiles w/ gasoline engines can use either the EPA approved oxygenated blends or "straight" gasoline.
The blend of oxygenates depends on Market and Season, and is mandated in some specific aspects by the US EPA.

Leaded fuel (gasoline containing tetraethyllead) will "poison" a catalytic converter. "Recreational fuel" can, and in some instances does, contain TEL to this day.
There are also other additives that can "poison" a modern automotive gasoline IC engine catalyst, but "pure" gasoline can not.

I have relevant professional experience to make this statement.

MN road gas MUST contain a minimum of 10% ethanol. We have no non ethanol options.

[MaryB]

i dont understand the posts about dyed fuel being more expensive than regular diesel, the whole idea is that the taxes are removed so it should always be cheaper. around here its about 75 cent cheaper, are you guys sure its not kerosene, that gets dyed also and is significantly more than diesel.

here off road fuel at the pump is higher priced than road fuel... thank stupid MN taxes! Off road bulk is cheaper... but I do not need 600 gallons of gas for the lawn mower, snow blower, and tiller... I might go thru 30-35 gallons a year...

[Omega]

here off road fuel at the pump is higher priced than road fuel... thank stupid MN taxes! Off road bulk is cheaper... but I do not need 600 gallons of gas for the lawn mower, snow blower, and tiller... I might go thru 30-35 gallons a year...

That does not make sense to me, off road fuel, the dyed stuff right?, is tax free, and only people with tax exempt status can get it so it should always be cheaper than regular diesel.

[jonp]

50 cents a gallon higher in price so running it on road doesn't make sense unless you have an older vehicle. Running non ethanol gas in a modern engine will destroy the cat converter... it has additives that do major damage. Local co-op accidentally got it in the wrong tank up at their shop and killed 4 cat converters on shop trucks. New guy doing bulk delivery screwed up.
I was talking about diesel. Here the prices are about equal, other states off road is lower.
I'm not sure about that non ethanol killing cats. Here they sell it at a few pumps and everything seems to run fine.
MaryB, where did you get that info?

[TXTad]

+1 for Power Services, have also used for several years and it works!

I used this for years when I had diesel trucks and I still put it in my Kubota.

[TurnipEaterDown]

MN road gas MUST contain a minimum of 10% ethanol. We have no non ethanol options.

US EPA regulations have the force of law, and when in conflict w/ state & local law will prevail IF more stringent, but clauses are written into Much law of this type that state and local Can override federal IF the state & local are more stringent -- this is how we got into the mess we have with CARB & the US Clean Air Act.

In Michigan, depending on where you are in the state, and in which season, you may get gasoline w/o ethanol, or with ethanol.

BTW: an ICE engine consumes roughly 2x the amount of ethanol as gasoline to make the same power -- So, using 10% ethanol gas gets you ~5% less fuel economy than "straight" gas.

[MaryB]

I was talking about diesel. Here the prices are about equal, other states off road is lower.
I'm not sure about that non ethanol killing cats. Here they sell it at a few pumps and everything seems to run fine.
MaryB, where did you get that info?

My owners manual flat out says to NOT run it. Now my engine is direct injection turbo so it is a bit different than most...

[firefly1957]

I use three additives. A biocide, a product to remove water from the fuel, and an anti-gel. The anti-gel is not needed in the summer, but I buy 50 gallons at a time and add it case I still have fuel in the storage tank when winter hits.

I am anal about it. But my tractor fuel can sit for months. I go through 100 gallons a year, so the added cost is minor to the cost of a problem. When I had a diesel pickup (2010 Ford), I never added anything but anti-gel in the winter and it was fine. No "gunk" issues in six years but it ran fresh fuel regularly. IMO having fuel sit for long periods might have a bearing on it.

OTOH, my neighbor uses less fuel than I do, and does not use additives. He has not had a problem...yet. He laughs at me for wasting money.

Anyway, my cost for 100 gallons works out to.
Biocide $12
Water disperser $8
Anti-gel $12

$32 ($.32/gal) for peace of mind and to protect a $30,000 tractor. And with my luck, I would have the problem happen when I had 12" of snow to clear. BTW, like you, I purchase off road as it is $.50 cheaper.

Thank you for the information we are in same area so it should work well for me last year I used 20 gallons all year last week I did some dirt moving at second property and went though over 5 gallons in two days . Most of the fuel I have on hand right now is "green" winter formula I am not sure how that effects things or if it does in the summer . I know it tends to foam when pouring which surprised me when I filled the cans fresh .

[Soundguy]

I think there's some confusion between leaded gas and ethanol free gas. Leaded gas and cat's don't mix but today about the only source to leaded gas is aviation fuel, racing fuel or off-road use.

Agreed..

[jonp]

I've learned several things from this thread.

For water in diesel I just dump a 16oz bottle of 90% alcohol in each tank once a week (200 gal total) and am religious in the winter about draining the fuel filter when I fuel.