bulge-buster > Lee factory crimp die

[hiram]

I purchased the bulge-buster and Lee factory crimp die for 380 acp.

What process would you do first? Bulge bust an empty case and then load and crimp OR load and crimp and then run through the bulge buster?

[stubshaft]

Bulge bust FIRST, I wouldn't run a loaded case through it.

[imashooter2]

Concur. Run it through the buster first.

[Leadmad]

I use the bulge buster for my 1911 in 45 acp, I size first them bulge bust them and pretty happy with it, I have on occasion run loaded ammo thru it but only the odd one that would pass the chamber checker not really a fan of doing that tho

Cheers

[GunsandCoffee]

I size first and then go through a Redding GRX die (I load .40).

[avogunner]

I have to use the bulge buster for loading .40S&W, as most of the range pickup brass I find have been shot from Glocks, or similar guns with unsupported chambers. I too resize first, then bulge bust, then load as normal. As Leadmad stated, I've also had the odd ones that still won't pass a chamber gauge. I find that those will pass the "plop test" though, and function fine in your pistol.
Semper Fi.

[JimB..]

Bulge bust the empty brass, put the FCD on the shelf to admire since you probably won’t need it.

[Der Gebirgsjager]

I have to use the bulge buster for loading .40S&W, as most of the range pickup brass I find have been shot from Glocks, or similar guns with unsupported chambers. I too resize first, then bulge bust, then load as normal. As Leadmad stated, I've also had the odd ones that still won't pass a chamber gauge. I find that those will pass the "plop test" though, and function fine in your pistol.
Semper Fi.

As stated above, same experience and method, Glocks and .40 S&W. No doubt same is correct for .380.

DG

[mdi]

I gotta drop my opinion here. No offence to the OP, but both of those dies have no place in my shop (not talking outta my hat, from experience). In reloading for a long time I have never needed to post crimp size any handload. If a round wouldn't chamber in any gun I own that is chambered for said round, I find out why and correct it. In my experience normal sizing/depriming dies have returned the case back to factory specs. (or close enough to get good neck tension and bulge free brass). I've only encountered a very few "Glock bulges" but once through my sizing die fixes them quite well, no need for an extra sizing. Same with an FCD. I have reloaded thousands of semi-auto rounds and maybe tens of thousands of revolver rounds and never needed to size a round after crimping.

I give my opinions on these "no need" tools not to diss or condemn any who use them, but new reloaders often hang out in reloading forums and can easily feel they should use all the methods posted (especially by high post count "experts"). If a knowledgeable reloader wants to uset any die, use any tool, any method, good! I just want to show newer reloaders both sides to reloading.

(One example; polishing brass to a high glossy shine is often purported to be absolutely necessary and leads a new reloader to purchase more equipment and use many unnecessary steps to get "acceptable" handloads. I remember when old timer reloaders shot brown brass proudly!)

No offence intended anyone, just giving another opinion...

[crandall crank]

I will be "politically" correct and agree with all of the above. I use the Redding bulge buster on .40 cal, then full length re-size. Like mdi, I have no use for any "post crimp die". If it doesn't chamber, I find out why and correct it.

[45_Colt]

There is nothing wrong with crimping, which is really flare removal, after the boolit has been seated.

If using a Lee carbide FCD, just knock the carbide ring out. Or use another run-of-the-mill seating die just as a de-flaring/crimping stage.

Of course, can also use a Lee collet FCD to de-flare the case mouth. Which can also set the case mouth into the boolit crimp groove. The collet FCDs don't have the sizing ring in them.

OTOH, if seating j-words, no need to crimp after seating. Just do both in the same stage.

The issue with seating and crimping (de-flaring) cartridges in the same step is that slivers of lead can be shaved off the boolit.

For the most part the above refers to pistol/revolver rounds. Rifle rounds are a whole 'nother story.

45_Colt

[mdi]

I have several "deflaring dies" I use regularly on my semi-auto handloads (aka taper crimp dies adjusted to just "kiss" the case mouth enough to remove any flare, not to reduce case diameter swaged into the bullet). I can't remember any deflaring need when reloading revolver ammo, but of course the roll, profile or collet crimp dies takes care of that.

[poppy42]

Some of you folks are misinterpreting the use of the Lee factory crimped die when bulge busting. In order to use the Lee bulge Buster Kit you must also have the factory crimp die for the caliber you are wanting to bulge bust! You remove the insert from the factory crimp die. You then use the factory crimp die with no insert as a pass through sizing die! The bulges they are referring to occurs in a spot on the case closer to the rim than most sizing dies will remove during the normal sizing process. The factory crimp die is not actually used as a crimp die in this process, merrily a pass-through sizing die!

[Shiloh]

You may have to size first, then use the bulge buster.

Shiloh

[JimB..]

Some of you folks are misinterpreting the use of the Lee factory crimped die when bulge busting. In order to use the Lee bulge Buster Kit you must also have the factory crimp die for the caliber you are wanting to bulge bust! You remove the insert from the factory crimp die. You then use the factory crimp die with no insert as a pass through sizing die! The bulges they are referring to occurs in a spot on the case closer to the rim than most sizing dies will remove during the normal sizing process. The factory crimp die is not actually used as a crimp die in this process, merrily a pass-through sizing die!

Guilty. But want to learn.

So there is a bulge busting die that you push the case through, then you need to also push the case through the FCD with the insert removed, and finally you full length size and proceed with loading. Is that correct?

[45_Colt]

The Lee carbide factory crimp die is the bulge buster push through die. The crimp assembly is removed from it so that a rim-less case can be pushed entirely through the die and out the top.

The buster kit has a ram that replaces the shell holder along with some guides and a catch can. Then it is a matter of just pushing the empty cases through the carbide factory crimp die.

Once this is done I would reload as normal using a resizing die with a decapper. Then on to priming, powder, and a boolit.

Poppy42, thanks for setting me straight.

45_Colt

[poppy42]

The Lee carbide factory crimp die is the bulge buster push through die. The crimp assembly is removed from it so that a rim-less case can be pushed entirely through the die and out the top.

The buster kit has a ram that replaces the shell holder along with some guides and a catch can. Then it is a matter of just pushing the empty cases through the carbide factory crimp die.

Once this is done I would reload as normal using a resizing die with a decapper. Then on to priming, powder, and a boolit.

Poppy42, thanks for setting me straight.

45_Colt
No problem. I know it was a little confusing to me at first. On a side note, if you want to bulge bust 9x19 (9 mm Luger) you have to use a 9x18 (9mm Makarov) factory crimp die! I know Lee doesn’t recommend bulge busting 9 mm Luger but it can be done. You just have to use the 9 mm Makarov factory Cromp die because 9 mm Luger is a tapered case while 9 mm Makarov is a straight walled case. I know this from personal experience!

[JimB..]

Thanks to you both, I get it now.

FWiW, I’m a roller not a buster.

[W.R.Buchanan]

The only cartridge you need to de-bulge is a .40 S&W. Never seen a bulged 9MM even from a Glock. Same with .380, the case is way stronger and doesn't bulge..

You de-bulge first ,,,Then you F/L Size, and then reload normally... Running thru a De-Bulging die doesn't size the case as much as a F/L die does and you won't have enough tension on the bullet. They are separate operations.

Randy

[BK7saum]

The only cartridge you need to de-bulge is a .40 S&W. Never seen a bulged 9MM even from a Glock. Same with .380, the case is way stronger and doesn't bulge..

You de-bulge first ,,,Then you F/L Size, and then reload normally... Running thru a De-Bulging die doesn't size the case as much as a F/L die does and you won't have enough tension on the bullet. They are separate operations.

Randy

I had a Springfield Ronin 9mm 1911 that required bulge busting for some loaded catridges to chamber. All questionable cartridges that would not chamber in the Ronin plunked in my Glocks and S&W semi-auto with no issues.

Obviously, the chamber on the Ronin was tighter. Options were bulge bust, ream chamber or sell/trade gun. I bulge busted for a little while, then traded the gun.

Problem solved.

[Baltimoreed]

I run my loaded 45acp rounds through my lee bulge buster. It’s the base and rim that get swaged down. Some pass through with minimal resistance while others are a struggle. PCCs and 1911s beat brass up a lot plus most of my brass is assorted stuff from friends and pick ups. I added a 2 ft piece of aluminum tubing to my handle just to make it easier.

[JimB..]

I run my loaded 45acp rounds through my lee bulge buster. It’s the base and rim that get swaged down. Some pass through with minimal resistance while others are a struggle. PCCs and 1911s beat brass up a lot plus most of my brass is assorted stuff from friends and pick ups. I added a 2 ft piece of aluminum tubing to my handle just to make it easier.

Why not do it as part of brass prep? Waiting to fix a loaded round that doesn’t chamber, I could maybe understand that, but doing it for all at the end, seems the hard way with no upside.