Lee Auto Disk

[snaggdit]

Does Accurate #5 just meter poorly, or do the auto measure disks just not quite work well? I have tried tapping the hopper on the down and upstroke and it gets a hair more consistant, but still not where the load info says it should be. Now I have got to the point that when I want a 7gr load, for example, I will look for the disk that drops 7.4. Annoying to have to weigh every load when using a progressive press. Do the Green/Red Dot or Unique pistol powders meter better? I have similar issues using it with the double disk and H4895 for .223, so I am assuming it is the auto disk. Once I get into the rhythm, it drops consistantly (+- .1 gr), just below what it is supposed to. Then I only check with the scale every 5 or 10 rounds. If I am loading for accuracy, I still check every one, but I guess it is OK for target loads. The Pro 1000 it came with does kick out several hundred rounds pretty fast once you get it set.

[looseprojectile]

I had a pro 1000 and could not get it to work with 4895 with stacked discs loading .223.
I just ordered the Lee classic turret press, 4 holer. I am just going to load .45 auto on it using red dot. The 1000 would have been adequate for that.
I gave the 1000 away and hope it has not discouraged the new owner.
The pro 1000 should be good for light charges of powder in pistol calibers.
Many have said fine ball or spherical powder does not work well in the Lee plastic sliders.
Good luck.
life is good

[Tom Myers]

I have 7 of the Lee Auto Disk Pro measures and have found that for the best repeatability I need to dip the measure and all the disks in warm water with a little dish soap added and then let dry.

I believe that ,with use, the measure builds up a charge of static electricity which hampers the flow and settling of the powder. It appears that the soap film left on the plastic parts prevents the static charge from forming. The effect seems to wear off with use and or time and when the charges become erratic, I re-dip in the dishwater.

Tom Myers
Precision Ballistics and Records (http://www.tmtpages.com)

[snaggdit]

Hey, I'll try that. I have seen something to that effect somewhere in some instructions. Maybe the Lee dippers...

[sniper7369]

I also wipe the hopper on my auto disks with a dryer sheet at every powder change and drop some graphite on the charge bar.

[RustyFN]

It's also good to run a hopper full through if it's new to break it in. I don't use Accurate powders in mine. I have used Titegroup, Bullseye, HS-6, W748 and H335 and all of those meter very well. I can load TG all day with no variation.
Rusty

[Crowkiller]

I have no problem using Bullseye or Power Pistol through my Auto disc Pro. It is a little more fussy with Blue Dot and Red Dot, but still works as well as anything else I have tried.
I use it on my Dillon for pistol loading because it a good deal easier to set than the Dillon measure, and for pistol powders in low volume it does just fine.

[snaggdit]

I have my parts drying, so I am going to make use of a 32 degree evening (unlike the 0 degree nights lately...) to do some WW smelting outside. Will post results later tonight after I get back in from smelting and do some more loading.

[jdgabbard]

I have had several issues with the lead measures, I own two. One thing that you might also try, that seemed to work for me, is use a baffle. RCBS makes one, though I am not sure if it will fit in the LEE. I simply made mine from a small piece of sheet metal. After using that all issues ceased. Good luck with it...

[StanDahl]

I've got a big jug of Bartlett's #105, which is supposed to be AA#5? (Or is it just that it's supposed to be used like AA#5?) Anyway, it is a very flaky powder that meters poorly, and it doesn't help that many of the flakes are stuck together. I'll try sifting it if I can find the right screens.

It sucks trying to weigh powder from a progressive. I have figured out a way (or probably got the idea from someone - I can't remember) to use the Auto Disk with flake powders like Unique. On the lid of the powder hopper I set up a little 3v motor with an out-of-balance weight on the shaft. I'm sure there's a name for it, but I don't know what it is - I found it at an electronics supply store. After it runs for a while and the powder settles, the Auto Disk puts out a very consistent shot of powder, never more than 0.1gr difference between each load.

As for the AA#5, faced with the prospect of dipping and weighing each charge, I haven't even tried the stuff yet.

[snaggdit]

Thanks StanDahl! You just gave me a lightbulb! My son is a Xbox 360 junkie, when he isn't using up my reloads. Just the other day, he was taking apart a broken controller, and since I fool around with electronics a lot I paused to see what made these things tick. Most of the guts were micro circuit boards and micro switches soldered to the boards. Not worth the effort to unsolder, even with copper wicks. What they DO have, is 2 little motors with off balance weights on them to cause the controller to shake for user feedback. He asked if I wanted them and being a junk collector, I of course said yes. I will hook one up to a small wall transformer (got dozens in various voltages) and mount it to the hopper. The controller uses 2 AA batteries, so I would think 3 volts will work. No more remembering to tap the hopper twice on the up and down stroke. When I took the motors I wracked my brain trying to think of a use for them. Now I have one! :-)

[StanDahl]

That's it! I bet every cell phone has something like that in it too. I rigged my motor up with a leftover 3v DC converter from some gizmo. For some reason it ran real slow - maybe 60 rpm's - the first couple of times I used it and I liked that. Later, it started to take off and spin fast enough - 300 rpm's? - that it wouldn't stay on the hopper without tape. I think just one AA battery might be about right, but I haven't tried it yet. Stan

[snaggdit]

Just wired it up. I had a single C cell battery holder but no C cells. Stuck in a AA and it vibrates just right. masking taped it to the hopper, but need to swap out the 45 shell hoder to do some 40, so I will do that first, then attach the autodisk and see!

[S.R.Custom]

Once I get into the rhythm, it drops consistantly (+- .1 gr), just below what it is supposed to.

Yep, keep your motions the same, and it'll throw the same... Also, make sure your chain and die are adjusted for full range of motion. If They're not not, the disc hole doesn't slide all the way under the hopper bushing (or all the way over the dump hole), and you get inconsistent charges. And I make an effort to keep the hopper filled at least 3/4 full all the time, so that 'head pressure' stays more or less the same.

But like you mentioned, the bugger does throw light, as compared to what the chart says it should. Like the label for all the holes is one off or something. But I've gotten used to it. When consulting the chart, I automatically go to the next larger hole, and that seems to throw the desired charge. I've found this to be true of all powders I've used in it, leading me to believe that it's an intentional 'safety' margin for those guys without scales.

[jonk]

I have had Red Dot bridge and not fill a case. Too clumpy, large flakes, too small a hole in the .5cc disc.

For larger loads, no issue with any powder. Also no issues with small discs if you are using a finer granulated powder.

It's also the most accurate measure I've tried. Even with stick powder, every throw is within .1 grains! Too bad the double disc kit comes with such crummy screws and even on the largest 2 discs isn't big enough for a lot of applications.

[yodar]

It's also good to run a hopper full through if it's new to break it in. I don't use Accurate powders in mine. I have used Titegroup, Bullseye, HS-6, W748 and H335 and all of those meter very well. I can load TG all day with no variation.
Rusty

The dryer sheet trick works, and I used all the ACCURATE Brand powders because the density of the powder was on the label and it helps calculate the VMD very accurately for each cavity.

I had a nice table printed up for all the powders so the grain yield of each cavity was defined for each brand of powder

EXCEPT for AA #9

That stuff was dust fine and both of my autodisks leaked it all over da place

Then I got my Dillon and all problems disappeared ;>)

yodar

[Black Jaque Janaviac]

I don't think the Lee volume tables are that precise. They're intended to get you into the ballpark. But there will always be some lot-to-lot variances in a powder. So everytime I buy a new powder can I have to readjust my volumes to attain the powder charges I'm after.

If you're not dealing with volumes exceeding 1.4 cc you may want to consider the adjustable charge bar. Instead of switching out disks you simply turn a knurled knob to increase and decrease the charges. This allows you to dial in the exact powder charge you want. It costs $10. I do wish they constructed it better. I'm on my second one in 6 years. As they age powder can work its way into the seams and bind the whole works up.

[snaggdit]

OK, got the motor attached and loaded some 40 S&W cast boolits just now using the .40 Lee disk. The chart says it should be 6.4 gr of Accur #5. The first one was just under 6.3. The next 6.2 but after that ~100 rounds all fell at 6.1. The variance was so slight that by my RCBS beam scale I could barely detect a difference! Now I guess I just need the charge bar and I will be all set for infinitely adjustable (and repeatable) loads for my pistols! I have a feeling that when I set up for .223 with H4895 it will drop consistantly, too. Thanks for all the input, it solved my issues!