Release agent for bedding epoxy

[bosterr]

I want to bed the recoil lug area of two rifles with Accraglas Gel and don't have any of their release agent but I've read on here there's other things that works just as good. I'd rather not hear what people have heard that works but from someone who's used an alternative more than just a couple of times with 100% success.

[deltaenterprizes]

Johnson’s Paste wax, Pledge spray wax.
If you get the action stuck put an iron on it and wait about an hour and the heat will soften the epoxy and you can remove the action from the stock!
First hand experience!
I use Marine Tex for bedding actions!

[Der Gebirgsjager]

I've almost always used Tre-Wax, a paste wax that comes in a can. I've seldom used the AccraGlas release agent, but have a couple of times with success, observing the advice to give it two coats. Using the wax was what was taught when I attended
gunsmithing school in the early '80s, and it's never failed to release. I'm sure that there are other options, but am only recommending what will work from personal experience.

DG

[rintinglen]

I used Johnson's paste wax and it worked just fine. Der Gebirgsjager hits it on the head to advise two coats. Be sure and fill any gaps or depressions that the Accraglas might enter to avoid having to use your sailor vocabulary while trying to remove the action.

[stubshaft]

Johnson paste wax, Kiwi Shoe Polish, most quality carnauba based waxes will work.

[MostlyLeverGuns]

I usually use Johnson's Paste Wax. I coat every thing that I do not want stuck to bedding. I usually go over twice letting wax dry/harden between coats, filling in any cavities. Coat any screws, fasteners, threads with the paste wax, stuff into threaded holes. Let dry/harden, I run the screws into the holes, clean up any loose wax,wipe excess clear with dry paper towel. I probably bed something, stocks, fore ends, scope bases a couple times a month, always use the Johnson's Paste Wax(JPW). I have Minwax Paste Wax to use when my JPW runs out. JPW was discontinued, Miniwax Paste Wax is about the same thing. I have used the Brownell's Acraglas Release Agent, works OK, MidwayUSA has a Spray Release, have not tried that.

[LAGS]

I am on the list for people using the Johnson's Paste Wax.
I never have had anything stick when using it.

[Rapier]

JPW, keep it on the bench, only thig I have been using for several decades. Modeling clay is handy for filling voids or holes.

[BLAHUT]

I want to bed the recoil lug area of two rifles with Accraglas Gel and don't have any of their release agent but I've read on here there's other things that works just as good. I'd rather not hear what people have heard that works but from someone who's used an alternative more than just a couple of times with 100% success.

Johnson Past Wax with at least two coats.

[Reg]

JPW, keep it on the bench, only thig I have been using for several decades. Modeling clay is handy for filling voids or holes.

Yup

[Larry Gibson]

I've been using Lee Liquid Alox (LLA) for years with Micro-Bed, Brownell's AccraGlass and Steel Bed and just this morning bedded a M1909 Argentine into a stock with Devcon Steel. Never had a problem with the LLA but I let it dry thoroughly before bedding. I also use the modeling clay to fill in areas where i don't want the bedding to go. I also put two layers of masking tape on the front, sides and bottom of the recoil lug before the application of LLA to give clarence for removal and reinsertion back into the stock.

[porthos]

i have bedded over 100 rifles. some were very scary to remove from the wood . have always used brownells liquid, long discontuined. but found a new pint can at a gunshow years ago.. i'll try the johnsons paste wax next time. funny story: was hanging out at lucas gun shop years ago when a guy came in and said that he forgot to put release agent on his rifle before bedding. asked walt(lucas) what he could do. walt said 1 word ; "hatchet"

[brnomauser]

I like kiwi shoe polish - purely because I have it. Used clear it worked well, then next time I didn’t have any so used black - worked just as well. This is with Devcon 10110

[THBailey]

All of the above is good advice. I usually use the KIWI shoe wax just because I have a bunch of it left over from when I used to polish my shoes. The only thing I would add is after an hour or two I turn the action screws out, one at a time, just a quarter turn or so, and re-tighten to break any bonding the bedding compound might be trying to form with the screws.

[405grain]

Once upon a time I used SLIDE brand epoxease mold release agent, (designed specifically for epoxy molding). The epoxy bonded to the action so firmly that I actually tore the stock in half getting it off the action. Because of the difficulty I experienced, I've done over a dozen glass bedding's, and I never use anything that was actually designed as a release agent. Johnson's paste wax, clear shoe polish, carnuba wax, heck - even lipstick would probably work better than some industrial product that was designed specifically to be a release agent. Don't trust some chemical company to tell you what works best, instead ask your gunsmithing buddies what they use. Also, remember to make clay "dams" to keep the epoxy in the areas where you need it, and out of the places where you don't. I've found that electrical tape works better than masking tape for areas where you want to create clearances.

[LAGS]

I had one rifle that I used a spray fiberglass release agent on the action.
The bedding stuck to the action.
When I realized that the release agent wasn't working, I heated the metal parts up with a heat gun set on low.
The bedding finally came loose.
There were a couple of spots that wood in the barrel channel did stay stuck to the barrel.
That was the only and last time I used that spray for a release agent.
But that is the only rifle that I have ever done that got stuck.
A friend bedded a stock and forgot to put release agent on the metal since the barrel was wrapped in electrical tape to gain him clearance.
I had him take the rifle to where he worked and put it in the freezer overnight.
That did get the action and barrel out of the stock with out much damage.
One word of advise.
Test your release agent on some scrap metals and with the bedding or epoxy you intend to use.
I have found that Some Epoxies do not work with Some release agents.
It is better to test it ahead of time so you don't wreck your stock or metal parts.

[Gtek]

I learned the hard way to "release agent" way past where you think you are going to be. I do several inches down barrel 360 degrees and all over action including sides and top. First placing modeling clay in all corners and crevasses on wood and metal and foil tape down sides of stock. I also place about 0.015"-0.020" of tape on front face of lug to be removed after pulling and I go about an inch and a half forward down channel. A good bed job you may get a little push up on sides, depending on material used a wiping of excess will save a bunch of time down the road. PREP AND A PLAN ARE JOB ONE! dry run a couple times before stir up. And Johnson can wax works just fine as stated above.

[uscra112]

When I was doing extensive fibreglass reproduction work for vintage race bikes, I was shown by a pro how to use polyvinyl alcohol.

https://www.amazon.com/Partall-Film-10-Polyvinyl-Alcohol/dp/B078XH3NYR/ref=sr_1_5?crid=3QJ6U8IDFKOEL&keywords=polyvinyl+alcohol&qid=1682829677&sprefix=polyvinyl+%2Caps%2C1267&sr=8-5

But do wax the parts first. And don't let ANY moisture near the work. PVA dissolves in a flash with water.

Prior to that I had used vaseline with success.

[racepres]

Yes to JPW... Recently tho
Saran Wrap
certainly for Large Fiberglass jobs!!

[pietro]

.

I've been using Johnson's paste wax on dozens of storks over the years.... but: CAUTION :

Don't wax just the metal !

Bedding compound has a tendency to migrate during the bedding process, so be sure to place an un-buffed heavy coat of wax on all the stock's exterior before even touching the bedding compound - unless you want to refinish the stock after cleaning up the cured overflow, i.e.


.

[copperlake]

PVA is what most pro's use in a production situation. In a spray, it gets into places your fingers, rag etc. can't.