Damaged die

[Rich/WIS]

Was neck sizing some 30/40 yesterday and had done 50 when I noticed one that looked a bit iffy. Grabbed another from my box of spares and when I sized it there was scoring on the neck. Not a scratch, scoring was over an 1/8 inch wide. The spare case was clean so I don't know what would cause this. Tried scrubbing it out with brake kleen and a 30 caliber brush and that helped but still leave a slight mark and a very faint scratch on the case neck. Wondering if 0000 steel wool and oil on a brush and spinning it with a drill would clean it up without damage to the die? All else fails will bite the bullet and replace it.

[Land Owner]

Try polishing Rouge, on cloth, spun by dowel, in hand drill instead of steel wool...

[Green Frog]

After the polishing method of your choice, you might take one of the damaged cases, and after turning it 180 degrees from the bad spot in the die, try sizing it again, with plenty of lube. Make sure there isn’t a burr turned up on the case though. This way you don’t risk another case and you should be able to determine whether you have really removed any metal from your die (probably won’t be a measurable amount. Fortunately Lyman tended to make those sizers very tight in many cases, so opening it up a bit probably won’t hurt anything. Good luck.
Froggie

[mdi]

"Iffy"? Scratches from both dies? I have polished dies and used very fine crocus cloth and oil. I'm not sure how 000 steel wool would work on hardened steel, Maybe an abrasive compound, paste would work better...

https://www.mcmaster.com/countersinks/lapping-paste-7/

[Winger Ed.]

I'm not sure how 000 steel wool would work on hardened steel,

It does OK to scrub off the 'flower' that grows from rust, but that's about it.

[Rich/WIS]

Success!! Looked at the die again under good light and magnification and could see a build up of something right where the neck portion started. Wrapped some 0000 steel wool on an old 30 cal brush and oiled it up. Holding the cleaning rod and brush upright set the die on top and spun the die by hand using the weight of the die to hold it in contact with the steel wool. Did this for 10-15 seconds and inspected it, still had a bit of crud so spun it for another 10-15 seconds. Looked clean so tested and was almost good, still left a very fine scratch when inspected under magnification. Took a large Q-tip and dipped it in JB bore paste and spun it with my battery drill for 30-35 seconds. Tested again and no scratches. Was impressed and decided to try this with a Eagle brand 30/06 neck sized I had gotten years ago that left a lot of fine scratches on case necks. Same procedure and when done now leaves no scratches. In both cases the problem seemed to be a build up of crud at the point where the neck enters the sizer. Had cleaned both may time by spraying with solvent and wiping out but apparently the buildup was tough enough that it did not come out and needed a somewhat more aggressive approach.

[Rapier]

Usually better to dress a die or chamber with an oil based polishing compound on a cartridge case that has beed drilled and tapped, turn the case at slow speed with a drill. It is slower, but less abrasive on the surface.

[Green Frog]

:Bright idea:Good idea Rapier! I’ll put that idea in my Bag-o-Tricks! Thanks. :drinks:
Froggie

[gwpercle]

Sizing dies are hard steel . When I had a 38/357 sizer that picked up and embedded some grit in the walls ... the #0000 steel wool and oil was what it took to polish it out .
I wrapped the steel wool around a brass brush ... got a tight fit and polished , turning by hand ... I didn't have a variable speed drill at the moment so went with "Elbow Grease " .
A couple -three scrubbings with plenty oil got the embedded grit out and back to smooth sizing . I have no idea how the grit got in there ... one day it started scratching brass !
Gary

[Half Dog]

I’m glad you have the problem resolved.

I had a RCBS die that I buggered up. I told RCBS what I did and they sent me a new die after they received my old die.

[1hole]

Sizing dies are hard steel . When I had a 38/357 sizer that picked up and embedded some grit in the walls ... the #0000 steel wool and oil was what it took to polish it out ..... I have no idea how the grit got in there ... one day it started scratching brass !
Gary

Steel sizing dies are case hardened. Like common files, they are harder than a woodpecker's lips. It's virtually impossible to mark or cut a sizer with a hack saw; it's very hard to embed anything into a file OR size die. Ditto anything else.

What's happening inside your sizer dies is the result of galled tiny bits of soft brass from the cases onto the super hard, dry surface of the die wall. The galling starts slowly but quickly builds with each repeated use. Thus, it's galling, not trash, that scratches cases. Galling builds up with every use unless we clean the die out from time to time and/or use a bit more sizing lube on the necks.

Bottom line, galling occurs because we're not applying sufficient case lube on the neck walls.

[Teddy (punchie)]

Using a piece of wood (pencil or dowel) shaped to the curve of the die; where ever I see this and some 400 or finer paper/cloth and oil and hand rub it off. Hardest thing for me is eyes are getting old LOL happens to us all. I have never had this happen to me but I check and clean all my dies. Funny how dirty some people let there tools for reloading get. Dust is one thing but a build up of heaven knows what something some are just loaded with ??. They are harden steel and just about never ware out. I started using oil lighter the better for most reloading needs.

[beagle]

A split dowel and crocus cloth usually works on steel dies and cleans them. Occasionally my carbide dies start that mess. I know it's time to break ot the dowel and clean them. Over time, even carbide will pick up grit and score cases unless cleaned from time to time. Only talking about a 3/16" carbide insert here. Don't know is the scratching occurs on the bottom or top of the die but it works doe me./beagle