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metricmonkeywrench
04-10-2023, 10:16 AM
Through a totally self-induced occurrence I ended up with dirty lead in my 10lb Lee Production pot. This mostly stems from the use of range scrap on a single melt/flux. I really need to re-smelt it all and do a second clean/flux to get a more consistent and cleaner alloy. It of course manifested itself in the usual partial plugging of the spout and lead coming out of the spout at an angle or low flow rate. At the end of this session while the lead level was low I emptied out the pot to take the opportunity to do a bit of pot maintenance. All in all the pot wasn’t too bad a shape and the pot, spout and valve rod cleaned relatively easily with the small wire brush on a Dremel here and there.

Having a little time I pondered the valve issue that has befuddled me for the longest time. I have absolutely no issue with how the simple mechanism for the valve works. My issue was that there seemed to be too much “float” for the valve rod to slide from side to side and twist on the wire bale and allow the drips to start as the valve misaligned when reaching the ends of it free play. As such a screwdriver was always on hand to straighten out the valve and realign it to “center”. This just became part of the routine of using this pot. While it was apart I decided I would look for a way to take up this slack. I tried washers on each side, but any washer that was thin enough to sit beside the valve rod with a hole just big enough to pass over the wire bale would simply creep over the bend and migrate back up the bale leaving the rod free again. Some of the bigger ones tried even contacted the top of the pot which would slightly hold the valve open. Definitely a no go.

The last attempt shown which shows the most promise is a small spring from one of those assorted spring packs form my local big box hardware store. My first thought was to slide two springs over the bale on each side to take up the space and aid in centering the valve rod. Of course this idea failed as the springs of the required size were not happy making all the turns to be put in place and like the washers would just creep back up the bale. This last spring tried though seems to do the trick. As positioned the spring holds tight against the valve rod and keeps the rod more or less centered and pushes the valve slot into the flat area of the bale not allowing it to rotate as well. The shape of the bale more or less ensures the ends of the spring can’t creep up and holds the rod relatively centered so for now it looks like a small win. Time will tell if the heat from the pot will affect the spring and either heat set in place it which may not be so bad until I have to clean the pot again or removes the “elasticity” and the spring loosens up and loses effectiveness. Either way the assortment came with a bunch of these springs so even getting 4~5 sessions out of the pot before replacing them may be worthwhile. This may not be a new idea, but a search of the form didn't show anything like this.

May take quite a while as I rotate pots and cast occasionally but I will try to remember to come back with a long term report on how this turns out. For those wondering the lead shown on top was an ingot disk cast in one of the tiny cast iron Lodge frying pans I use as a drip catcher with the smaller pots. It’s a bit too wide to fit into the pot so some stress relieving “adjustments” were made with a vice and hammer to get the ingot to fit into the pot.

312838

MightyThor
04-10-2023, 05:39 PM
neat, I might try this too. I always just put a small ladle on the plate to catch the drips. Looks like a long term solution to me.

john.k
04-11-2023, 03:07 AM
I had lots of trouble with lead sheet from Xray shielding........the glue holding it together seems to burn down into a sand ,a grey sand that can stand red heat......anyhoo,apparently the sand doesnt float to the top as you might expect ,but is trapped by the high surface tension of the lead......you can stir the lead a dozen times ,and more sand will come to the top........Needless to say ,the Lee pot cant cope with this ,and I have to dipper cast ,and keep skimming off the sand .

ukrifleman
04-11-2023, 06:11 AM
Much better to melt range/scrap lead into ingots to clear crud before using in casting furnace.
ukrifleman

metricmonkeywrench
04-11-2023, 10:18 AM
I was asked privately about some more detail on the selected spring- I don't remember exactly where I got the assortment or who made it, the blister pack they came in is long gone. Though it may look like a ink pen spring it definitely is not. In the sizes that looked like they would work I opted for the smaller spring that fit the wire bale. If that one doesn't pan out as well I may go up to the next size bigger.

312855

joun/uk This post is not about lead cleanliness. As originally stated I was aware of my less than perfectly clean lead choice. It is my intent at some point to re-smelt and do a thorough clean/flux of what i have already processed. I still have about 50+lbs of unprocessed range scrap to work through first.

Mk42gunner
04-11-2023, 06:13 PM
I've always wondered just why Lee put a screwdriver slot on this particular valve. Way to easy to give it too much twist and spin the rod so the bail comes clear out of the slot (deluge city).

Robert

metricmonkeywrench
06-07-2023, 12:40 PM
Update- I'm on about my 5th full pot casting session with the spring installed and can positively state that it now makes this pot way more pleasurable to use. The spring is doing well and continues to hold the valve rod neatly in place. There is no more keeping a screwdriver nearby and constant fiddling and re-centering the valve in the bale. Any drips are my fault from less than clean lead which so far clears itself after a few casts or if I do an occasional purge (hold the valve fully open for a second or two) into my drip cup/sprue catcher.

I wonder if Lee gives out bonuses for submitted product improvements?

FISH4BUGS
06-07-2023, 04:18 PM
I used a 20 lb Lee Pot for 30 years. I just accepted the "drip-o-matic" and the screwdriver as part of the pot's personality.
Cleaning was done about every 5 years or so. Dollar for dollar they are unbeatable.
I still have the pot as a backup, but I bought an RCBS pro melt and use it a LOT.
Night and day.

BJung
06-08-2023, 12:24 AM
I own a 10lb Lee and used it for everything also. To cast ingots, I melted my range scrap and removed both the jackets and slag with my Lee Ladle. Any crude that stuck to the side, I scraped so it settled on the bottom. Then I turned my pot over and hit the ground with the top and all the crud fell out. At times I was in a rush and wanted to cool my pot down so I could load it into my car. Warm water removed the excess crud and left my pot clean. I've read of some casters use a vinegar and water mix but I haven't tried that. As for my valve, I used valve grinding compound to seat the stem and nozzle. There is drips at times but I ignore them. The pot is old and so am I so a little drip is expected.

Last, I purchased a Lyman Big Mouth recently. To cast you use a ladle. But for range scrap, it's much easier to melt it because: 1: the valve stem doesn't get in the way and 2: you can fit a $ store spoon with holes in it to remove the jackets and slag easier and quicker.

JoeJames
06-08-2023, 10:41 AM
I have a Lee Production Pot I bought used from one of the members on here. I have had trouble with its clogging up to a point that I found I was spending a whole lot more time cleaning it than casting. After it clogged to where there was no leakage at all; I just gave up and pulled the whole valve assembly. Just use it now with a small ladle. I don't recommend this approach as one never knows if it might decide to go ahead and unclog, but I keep an ingot tray under the spout just in case.