TIG WELDING...can the old'Dog learn a new trick?

[OS OK]

For several years now I have had the urge to learn TIG welding.
I have no special projects ahead that require TIG & any welding I need done I can do with my Miller MIG or Oxy/Acetylene.
This is about me just wanting to try this out and learn a new skill set.

First move I made many months back was to start watching Y-Tube videos about every aspect...knowledgeable people comparing various 'CHEAP' - TIG welders using this new technology of inverter type machines, their shortcomings & pluses, how to's, tips & tricks etc.
I learn fastest by watching another and observing all his preparations and how he goes about his tasks. I found lots of video showing the actual welding pool with a proper camera filter, that was really helpful to see as the instructor described whatever he was illustrating.

After several months of '101' Y-Tube University, I started looking into a CHEAP machine that'd suffice for my needs in learning.
This brand I selected had set-up selectable capabilities I thought would be handy, AS IN 'post flow gas & post flow decreasing amperage'. Cheap machines are just that...CHEAP...and I can't expect too very much.

https://i.imgur.com/GxaAmEul.jpg

There were other components for the TIG system I had to order separately like regulator/flow meter & Argon bottle, tungsten's, filler rod, foot pedal etc. You have to pay attention learning something new like this or you'll spend a lot longer time acquiring all the necessities before you can get started.

First thing I did was to set up a new cart for this little 'lunchbox sized welder'...I decided to place my Plasma cutter and this TIG on the same cart.
Getting started, I cut a slot to slip an 80 cubit foot Argon bottle inside the cart instead of hanging it off the back end. I mounted my air dryer/regulator assembly for the plasma cutter in the rear also.

https://i.imgur.com/RlR4LCOl.jpg

See what I mean about 'lunch box' size?

https://i.imgur.com/LsHNmmrl.jpg

This allows the ground clamp cable and torch rig to wind up on the back post of the cart for storage on each side of the cart for both machines. The old plasma cutter cart to the right was too light duty to hold all this new gear I have here...

https://i.imgur.com/E4qiaX1l.jpg

The two shelves below should be enough space for all the various tools I keep with these machines...squares, clamps of various sizes & types and the consumables for the torch tip maintenance.

https://i.imgur.com/g84tXZYl.jpg

I think this will work out and be handy for adjusting the machines...

https://i.imgur.com/JbRsJCsl.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/YO9pbD7l.jpg

Now after a couple hours in setup...it's time to get familiar with the TIG welder and make some 'worms'...keep in mind, I've never even held a MIG torch or watched a friend TIG in person...this is all new ground for this old'Dog!
I started out learning how to do everything, like how to carefully 'dip that tungsten' in the weld pool or how to 'carefully coat that tungsten with the filler rod materal'...this takes a special inborn talent I've had for the last 73 years!

https://i.imgur.com/aGRh8Bo.jpg

Being OPTIMISTIC...and trying to keep a good attitude, I can say this about today's activities..."I can grind a tungsten!" I had 7 opportunities to learn that much!
Well...I have all summer for this and my Bench Rest shooting. I can do one when I can't do the other.

Last year I built some new benches that ought to come in handy...

https://i.imgur.com/W6bAKki.jpg

This is my portable welding & plasma cutting bench...it has to be portable as I dare not make sparks in a shop where I handload and work with wood.

https://i.imgur.com/TNuwTbwh.jpg

[pworley1]

Nice work on the carts and bench.

[Nobade]

It has a for sure learning curve! Congratulations for jumping in. Once you get it you'll end up finding all sorts of uses for it. You will want to get a curtain or something to stop air currents while you work if you're going to do it outside though. Enjoy!

[CastingFool]

Nice job on the carts!

[DougGuy]

80 or more amps on 10ga metal? There's where your ugly jumped into the picture. Use a thicker material to weld on while you get some technique, the thinner you go with the metal you want to weld on, the more skill and dexterity it takes. AND the less heat!

Your porosity came from pulling away from the molten metal puddle too soon, and oxygen got to it while it was still liquid. When you break the arc just hold the cup close and flow the shielding gas on the puddle for a couple of seconds until it turns solid.

You want to practice "walking the cup" you can do this without adding filler metal, and you can cut the amps down so you can walk the cup on the back side of your 10ga metal.

Walking the cup is done in 2 ways, one is an arc back and forth, left to right, right to left, at the end of your arc, angle the torch and roll it back the other way, the puddle will advance and you get this pretty "bootlace" or "snake belly" pattern to the bead. The other way is making a horizontal figure 8 as you weld, this way the torch advances a pretty good bit each time you get to the edge. Harder to do but makes the cap stand out, especially on stainless.

Think of it like walking an empty 55gal drum. Tilt the drum back toward you, and roll it to and fro. The drum will not advance, you step to one side and advance the foot on that side, now tilt the drum toward that food and roll it. At the end of the arc, stop and set up to go back the other way. The drum will advance, and you keep repeating this and going forward. You can walk the drum across a parking lot if you want, leaving only a zig zag pattern behind you where you rolled it.

Now, think of the drum as the ceramic cup and do the same basic procedure with the tig torch, you will quickly get the hang of walking the cup. Use an 8 or bigger cup for this.

When you can make pretty beads walking the cup, then try adding filler metal, you can hold a wire steady and walk the cup on it, or you can dab and pull back a tiny bit and dab again.

When I was tigging pipe, I would take two rods and tack the end together, lay both on the weld and walk the cup on them, this was my cap pass, fat and pretty..

[OS OK]

Thanks for the tips DougGuy...I've watched a multitude of walking the cup stuff, figured that advanced skill would come after I learned to keep the tungsten clean by staying out of the puddles and away from the filler rod! :bigsmyl2:

It is a beautiful bead though!

https://i.imgur.com/2ZINeYwl.jpg

[elmacgyver0]

Your tungsten stinger should never come in contact with the metal unless it is a scratch start machine.
The high frequency is what starts the arc without actually contacting the metal.
You must also keep a sharp point on your tungsten stinger.
If your machine is capable of AC, you will be able to easily weld aluminum with it.
Note, AC is not the same as high frequency.
The high frequency is just to start the arc by making a spark jump between the metal and the stinger, like a sparkplug.
You are going to love your new welder.

[KenH]

"Walking the cup" - back in the days when I was stick welding that was called a "stack of nickels" for vertical bead.

OS OK: I admire your "toys" - they talk about us "old folks" need to do things like crossword and other puzzles to keep our minds active, but I'd MUCH rather play with my "toys" as you are. I'm having too much fun and don't have time for crossword puzzles.

That cart you've got is a really nice cart. I've got 3 of them, one used as an electronic test cart with test equip, another holds a Heat Treating oven, and the other is larger and holds a 16 ton hydraulic press for forging.

[sparky45]

OP's post might just be the impetus I need to get a similar rig, thanks for posting. One thing I noticed in your pictures is the "old school" pencil sharpener on the leg of the wooden bench, it's exactly like the one I have mounted next to my Powermatic wood lathe.

[elmacgyver0]

I have a lot of toys, but I still do the puzzles.
It takes a lot to keep my mind active.

[OS OK]

"Walking the cup" - back in the days when I was stick welding that was called a "stack of nickels" for vertical bead.

OS OK: I admire your "toys" - they talk about us "old folks" need to do things like crossword and other puzzles to keep our minds active, but I'd MUCH rather play with my "toys" as you are. I'm having too much fun and don't have time for crossword puzzles.

That cart you've got is a really nice cart. I've got 3 of them, one used as an electronic test cart with test equip, another holds a Heat Treating oven, and the other is larger and holds a 16 ton hydraulic press for forging.

I think that keeping the brain engaged & exercised well daily, us old'Farts should not end up as drooling wheel chair inhabitants...that to me is not quality in life and for me...life should end right there before I need diapers. Outside tools & toys should be the cure so I can go out with my boots on.
I told my wife..."if you ever see the zero turn mower going in circles with me slumped over the levers, just wait till it runs out of gas and then call the coroner!" :bigsmyl2:


Your tungsten stinger should never come in contact with the metal unless it is a scratch start machine.
The high frequency is what starts the arc without actually contacting the metal.
You must also keep a sharp point on your tungsten stinger.
If your machine is capable of AC, you will be able to easily weld aluminum with it.
Note, AC is not the same as high frequency.
The high frequency is just to start the arc by making a spark jump between the metal and the stinger, like a sparkplug.
You are going to love your new welder.

That HF was one of the deal breakers on buying my first TIG machine, didn't want to scratch or lift start. I had trouble keeping the minimum distance between the tungsten and the work piece and I'd dunk it or wet it with the filler (got me plenty of practice sharpening tungstens though) One problem is handling the torch like a MIG torch/stinger...that ain't working....eventually I'll get it.
One problem is getting used to the start switch on the torch itself, I need to discover a more comfy way to hold that thing and have a steady & straight weld. Eventually I'll find a foot pedal for this machine, that was a downside but not a deal breaker, it didn't come with one and locating a non-standard pedal rheostat of 10K-ohm is not easy. I think the foot switch is just that, an 'on-off' switch not amperage control?

The directions written in ChineeeEnglish are difficult at best, especially so about this 2T & 4T business I have circled with the question mark. It looks to be a reduced amperage but I'm in the dark about that...these instructions are online here > https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0613/8458/9369/files/TIG200_manual.pdf?v=1669877767&ref=mechmaster

https://i.imgur.com/96KhD4Vh.jpg

[elk hunter]

OS OK;

I tell people, "if you can O-A weld you can TIG". It does require a a different touch and practice. I did OK at it for quite a while until I developed "Tremors". At that point fine motor skills all but vanished and I became the world champion at dipping the tungsten in the puddle. Enjoy your new machine and skills.

[GregLaROCHE]

I’ve been wondering about trying out TIG. Many years ago, I was given the chance to try on some thin stainless I had taken to be welded. I pretty good welding with stick, but there was no way I could do TIG starting on vertical thin stainless. The welder agreed that I should start art on something thicker. I’ve been planning to do that, but now almost forty years have gone by. I still hope to get chance one day.

[OS OK]

I got out this afternoon and tried more practice as DougGuy suggested without any filler rod...

https://i.imgur.com/xevxyZFh.jpg

I must have been shuffling my feet with that walking the cup business...going way to slow rocking the cup forward. That big glob just dropped out and rolled across the table and into my lap...boy I was moving pretty fast getting out of it's way! :bigsmyl2:

I just can't seem to work out a position to sit and weld and handle this torch...it just has too open of an angle pointing away from me...you can see I just dipped the tungsten again for about the 9'th time today!

https://i.imgur.com/gDsUTrRl.jpg

So, just now I ordered a flex-head replacement, I can bend the head down to a 90º angle and this might help to get comfortable?

https://i.imgur.com/XqJkiA7h.jpg

I have some stubby consumables for this torch, I might set the new flex head up with those? I'll have to go on what you welders recommend here?

https://i.imgur.com/nfQwmZ0h.jpg

[Winger Ed.]

You're on the right path and will be fine.
It's like flying a airplane or driving a motorcycle--- the more you do it, the better you get.

[Ford SD]

Practice Practice Practice

A rule of thumb with tig is 1A of power for every .001 thickness of steel 1/8" = 125A ( Fixed as I can not chew gum and type at the same time .... :( :)

the 2 and 4 setting is
2 = on when you press the button and off when you release
4 = on when you press the first time ?????? - ???? 4 time you press the button is off

if Buying a new tig machine look at one with a inverter power supply ... more $$ but better functions

I have a inverter tig and I can set it up so with one push of the button it will do a spot weld exactly the same every time (same amps/ same length of time)

if you have a foot peddle machine you can hold the tig torch between your first 2 fingers with other fingers/ thumb as support

or the other way is between thumb and 1st finger with other fingers as support

a good pair of tig gloves helps as well
as well as a auto darkening helmet

[ulav8r]

Practice Practice Practice

A rule of thumb with tig is 1A of power for every .001 thickness of steel 1/8" = 180A

That rule of thumb would put the amperage at 125A for 1/8 inch steel. That is based on your rule of thumb, not my experience, as I have done no tig welding.

[Jimmynostars]

Clean no scale 1/8 steel 110 to 100 amps is where I would start. 2x pieces of flat to join with a fillet.

Rest your wrist on some 2x4, move the torch in a smooth arc start to stop for a 1 to 2" weld. If not correct reposition.

Tack both ends then torch to start the weld pool. Rest the filler wire into the groove between the 2 flat plates, poke and retrieve into the weld pool think like a wood pecker but not that fast.

Each poke is a "Nickel" same as the "blap blap blap" of a mig. Between each is a wave or push with the Tig torch.

You can fudge a bit with speed of torch, wire feed and torch distance from weld

Kind of a wax on wax off karate kid thing. Practise is king and it's the quickest way to make scrap steel

[john.k]

I been tig welding for 40 years with an old Lincoln 250amp DC bullet.....I hear all the stuff about square waves and pulses and such,but the Lincoln just does what I want .....wont do ally,and Ive never tried to do ally...........you need big power to do anymore than drink cans,and everyone wants you to weld motor bike crankcases and such which are 1" thick at times...Maybe someday Ill get a modern machine.

[OS OK]

I appreciate all the tricks & tips here in the comments but...at the moment, I am a complete NEOPHYTE. I am having to work up from the most basic of instruction and form good habits & techniques.
One of the worst of my problems is 'dipping the tungsten'. "Why the heck am I doing that? So...
I searched around on the Y-Tube to find some free instructional video to correct this problem.

I found this guy in Canada who is a 'TIG ARTIST' (never heard of such a thing!) I thought anyone who can turn out this type of work must have some good basic instruction so I can get past the dipping and into the next stage of learning TIG....

https://i.imgur.com/9tpvNesh.jpg

It turns out that he has a couple of videos about just what my problem is & what to do about it...


https://youtu.be/dIEyA9skV5k


https://youtu.be/4ZsgervpN2E

So...that is what is on the menu for today's practice & I can repeat the exercise of just running the puddle straight and even and hopefully I can improve on this disaster...

https://i.imgur.com/pXel1lbh.jpg

[country gent]

O recently put a 2x magnifying lens in my helmet. It helped me a lot. Allows me to see what is happening

[OS OK]

O recently put a 2x magnifying lens in my helmet. It helped me a lot. Allows me to see what is happening

Good tip, I'll check into that. Can't cost that much to give it a try...right?
I have had cataract surgery in both eyes and can see really good now, thank God for that! But I'll check into a magnifier lens for my auto darkening helmet.

[elmacgyver0]

I have used strong readers inside my helmet, but recently installed the magnifying lenses.
For me it makes a world of difference.
One other tip.
Do not try to pick up your welder soon after you have had prostate surgery.

[country gent]

I think the last 2 x lens I bought was around 10.00. In my auto helmet they are held in with the rubber gasket.

[owejia]

Used pigskin gloves back in my tig welding days, the heat didn't make the leather as hard as regular leather gloves, and they were very soft and could get better feel for the control of the stinger and rod. My hands and arms get tired to quick now to do good welding beads even with mig welding. Need to be in a comfortable position when doing welding. Like most have already told you practice improves your welding skills

[OS OK]

Used pigskin gloves back in my tig welding days, the heat didn't make the leather as hard as regular leather gloves, and they were very soft and could get better feel for the control of the stinger and rod. My hands and arms get tired to quick now to do good welding beads even with mig welding. Need to be in a comfortable position when doing welding. Like most have already told you practice improves your welding skills

That was part of the practice lesson yesterday...'getting comfy' like I do with the MIG. It is a little strange just yet, the position I have to get into to use the TIG Torch. It's a different animal.
Starting out, I had a wood block/riser under my wrist and that'd give me about a 2 or 3" bead before I needed to slide the block or try to overreach a comfy position.
I researched the Y-Tube again and found a video specific about getting the torch hand/arm comfy...the resolve was to anchor the arm just in front of the elbow as I sit at the table. That was much better and it extended my comfy reach to about 6" of straight bead or a little better.

Yesterdays practice was about being comfy & running straight weld pools without any filler rod.

Well...I went in with that conquering attitude..."I got this" type approach, started practicing and everything headed for the toilet pretty fast, see for yourself...

https://i.imgur.com/1ROLXVdl.jpg

*I'm a lefty, I worked the coupon top left to right & top to bottom.

https://i.imgur.com/2nJuIKcl.jpg

QUESTION are those little 'nipples' sticking up 'gas contamination' that hasn't popped just yet and left the crater look?

What a surprise. I thought after a successful practice yesterday, that I'd move on to practice with adding filler rod in the next session...work that angle until I have some decent skills.
Then...suddenly...POROSITY HAPPENED! ... You know, like...SPIT HAPPENS!
While sitting there watching all this explode in my face, I couldn't imagine why? I haven't changed any machine settings from the day before.
I was determined to keep the tungsten out of the weld pool and I am sure I didn't dunk once but looking at the tungsten, I see a black tungsten instead of it being it's normal grey color.
So...even though I didn't dunk that sucker...I find myself back at the grinder several times. I'm feeling pretty stupid, I'm wondering that maybe it's this little grinding belt that's introducing some other metals into the weld. I went over to the aluminum oxide '8 inch stone' on the grinder...no improvement...I'm thinking, I have another evening in front of the computer trying to research what the heck happened today!

TWO THINGS...
I think my gas flow is not adequate, either the torch is not passing the gas because of a damaged collet(?) or the regulator got accidentally bumped or twisted and I am not sending enough Argon to the torch? < most likely this! I have the 'post flow gas' set at 5 seconds...I'll see about this today.
UPS came in late in the evening and delivered a set of 2.3" diamond grinding wheels and that's what I needed to built that dedicated grinder for the tungsten.

https://i.imgur.com/b4pBT66l.jpg

Here's hoping today's practice goes smooth! I don't like problems but without having to deal with all this now, I doubt I'd learn very much and then...right in the middle of my first TIG project I'd see something like this and have to stop work and go back to old'skool!

[country gent]

As has been stated get in a comfortable position. if you want strait welds you cant pivot your hand / wrist on the rest. I use a short length of 2" pvc pipe for a rest it allows the glove to slide easier and smoother. I keep mine right with the welder.

A good secure ground is essential to good welds. The clamps are okay but one the size for the part and with the proper contact makes a big difference.

CLEAN EVERYTHING GOOD THEN CLEAN IT AGAIN. Dont forget the filler rod.
When adding filler to the weld add it to the front of the puddle not into the arc.
Sharpen the electrode so the grind lines run parallel to the electrode.

A lot of tig welding is muscle memory it takes practice. When practicing tape a piece of filler rod to the cup to help maintain the right spacing.

[OS OK]

https://youtu.be/rvz-of5Hd6M

[elmacgyver0]

I had a little HF red scratch start TIG welder and probably would still be using it, but lightning storm claimed it along with most all the electronics in my home.
I replaced it with an Eastwood AC/DC 200 TIG, Christmas present from my wife.
Absolutely love it, can't beat the high frequency start.

[Plate plinker]

I recently started tig welding too. A sobering experience to say the least.

Two issues I experienced were getting a good setup and setting the heat (amps) properly.

[OS OK]

I had a little HF red scratch start TIG welder and probably would still be using it, but lightning storm claimed it along with most all the electronics in my home.
I replaced it with an Eastwood AC/DC 200 TIG, Christmas present from my wife.
Absolutely love it, can't beat the high frequency start.

That's a big plus having the AC for aluminum! HF start is the only way to go...it's hard enough to keep that tungsten clean as it is.


I recently started tig welding too. A sobering experience to say the least.

Two issues I experienced were getting a good setup and setting the heat (amps) properly.

I like having a new skill to hone. So far...I'm pretty dang good at sharpening them tungstens. Think I'll change my name to Charlie-Dipper.
I got that diamond grinding wheel installed in my dremel and chucked in the vice and it sharpens the tungstens lickedy'split now.

https://i.imgur.com/59fmFTYl.jpg

I hold the drill motor in one hand and the collet in the other and I have control over the angle of the grind...dang quick these diamond wheels.

https://i.imgur.com/Js2mDjIl.jpg

[W.R.Buchanan]

OK a couple of things,,, First; your tungsten is not sharp enough. Put it in your drill motor and grind it to a dead sharp point where the length of the cone is 3-4 times the diameter of the tungsten. I have a "Green Wheel" mounted to a small bench grinder I use to do this. Since I am grinding on the outside of the wheel the cone comes out slightly concave. This forms a more precise arc that produces a better puddle.

Second, you have it sticking out too far from the cup. Thus it is easier to stick in the puddle when it sticks out too far. I do it all the time, and I have been TIG welding for 50 years.

Next: Get a Magnifying Lens for your helmet. I also wear my normal glasses when welding or I can't see anything. If you can't see, you can't weld. It is not done by feel!

The process of TIG welding goes like this. Establish a Puddle, then move the Puddle Ahead, then add Rod, puddle ahead, rod, puddle ahead, rod, puddle ahead, and so on.

Last: Don't be afraid to cheat. When doing Fillet welds, I use a cup with a large hole in it so that I can rest it on both sides of the fillet. My fillet welds come out perfectly strait. if you are welding a strait line don't be afraid to put a strait edge down so you can have something to guide the Torch.

Unfortunately you will have to practice to get good and with us older guys nobody is going to pay us to practice. For you this is a Hobby. I got paid to weld, and after a month or so doing it 8 hours a day I got pretty good.

Since I do it infrequently now, it takes me a hour or so to get back on top of my game. If I am going to weld something that matters, I always practice the weld on scrap rather than mess up my nice project.

My last big project was Repairing the Traction Bar on my Jeep. It had broken right outside of the previous welds, so I beefed it up using "fish plates." The welds on that were pretty much all done out of position as opposed to being done on the bench where you can position the work for optimal torch position, so they don't look perfect but they also don't look that bad and I know they are strong.

I tried to load a pic of the best weld on the Jeep but it will not load onto the site, so you'll just take it from me,,, it is perfect!.

I case you haven't figured it out I built this entire Jeep from scratch, and there was a ton of welding on the frame. It was a combination of MIG and TIG welding and I did most of it, although my Friend John Cimbura helped with the frame which was built on 2 Saw Horses and came out with in .015 of being perfectly Square. John taught me a lot about not just welding but "fitting" which is the hard part.

Lots more to Welding than sticking things together. That is the easy part.

Randy

[OS OK]

Thanks for all the tips W.R.Buchanan, I appreciate advice from an old'Salt.

[Cap'n Morgan]

It's been years since I last TIG welded anything. I'll gladly admit my hands are far too shaky to run the torch and rod at the same time and get anything not resembling a WWI battlefield.
The solution was to run over the welding one more time, this time using both hands and if possible resting my wrists on the vice. :wink:

[jmorris]

You can learn more in 2hr with someone who knows what they are doing and can see what you are doing, than spending 2 years reading words they wrote.

With oxy/act welding under your belt, you are ahead of the game. That said, if you don’t have control of the power (foot or hand) you are handicapped. I have “set and go” machines but they are a compromise and not as easy to use. I would suggest that right from the start, to make things as easy as possible.

For me it’s not a “thickness = amps” calculation. The speed you travel has a huge impact on this as does what material you might be welding.

The cheap high frequency machines are generally just start and can’t weld things like aluminum but it’s a good example of a material that might require a lot of current initially and then taper back as you go or you might just hold in place until your puddle forms, keep it floored and weld at a higher inches per minute, rather than back off and slow down.

Tungsten needs to stay sharp on steel and can help on precision aluminum welding of thin materials too. If you are having trouble touching the tungsten to the work, put on a larger cup, if you have the same angle and protrusion of tungsten, you will be further from the work.

I’d also suggest getting some silicon bronze filler to practice with. Beginners seem to have better luck with it as brazing “flow” is easier to see before you are too hot on the parent material. It’s also reasonably strong too, lots of chromemoly chassis of open wheel racecars are assembled using CuSi and it makes for an easy repair. Your Oxy/Act and compressed air can disassemble without cutting.

Flex head torches can help a lot finding angle that work for you and are pretty inexpensive these days with China imports.

[OS OK]

You can learn more in 2hr with someone who knows what they are doing and can see what you are doing, than spending 2 years reading words they wrote.

With oxy/act welding under your belt, you are ahead of the game. That said, if you don’t have control of the power (foot or hand) you are handicapped. I have “set and go” machines but they are a compromise and not as easy to use. I would suggest that right from the start, to make things as easy as possible.

For me it’s not a “thickness = amps” calculation. The speed you travel has a huge impact on this as does what material you might be welding.

The cheap high frequency machines are generally just start and can’t weld things like aluminum but it’s a good example of a material that might require a lot of current initially and then taper back as you go or you might just hold in place until your puddle forms, keep it floored and weld at a higher inches per minute, rather than back off and slow down.

Tungsten needs to stay sharp on steel and can help on precision aluminum welding of thin materials too. If you are having trouble touching the tungsten to the work, put on a larger cup, if you have the same angle and protrusion of tungsten, you will be further from the work.

I’d also suggest getting some silicon bronze filler to practice with. Beginners seem to have better luck with it as brazing “flow” is easier to see before you are too hot on the parent material. It’s also reasonably strong too, lots of chromemoly chassis of open wheel racecars are assembled using CuSi and it makes for an easy repair. Your Oxy/Act and compressed air can disassemble without cutting.

Flex head torches can help a lot finding angle that work for you and are pretty inexpensive these days with China imports.

Thank you jmorris...these are exactly the tips I need.
I have the HV start but they didn't supply a foot pedal with the purchase. I raised a stink over that and it looks like they will send me a pedal now.
I bought a flex torch and that is a big help.
One of the things I have to be much more concerned over is the shielding gas & wind. I am going to build a wind-shield for the bench, that should help a great deal & I am on my largest standard cup, 8 I think?
I have some of the other really wide and clear type cups but haven't tried them yet.

https://i.imgur.com/nfQwmZ0l.jpg

[Liberty1776]

Just put an order in for a PrimeWeld TIG225X tig/stick unit. Still need the cart and bottle of argon.

313583

Comes with a good, US-made CK Worldwide #17 flexible head torch.

https://youtu.be/ddIveqH1uQM

[OS OK]

Just put an order in for a PrimeWeld TIG225X tig/stick unit. Still need the cart and bottle of argon.

313583

Comes with a good, US-made CK Worldwide #17 flexible head torch.

https://youtu.be/ddIveqH1uQM

I hope you like it...looks to be heads & shoulders above my little unit. There's some really good videos out there for advanced units like that one.

[Liberty1776]

I hope you like it...looks to be heads & shoulders above my little unit. There's some really good videos out there for advanced units like that one.

Like shooting, welding can be an expensive hobby. I've been looking into TIG for many years, but every machine was like $3000.

An "M" tank of mixed Argon and CO2 to purchase is like $400. (Cheaper to refill, but still.) Then you need a cart to hold the welder, the tank and all the accessories. My little MIG cart is totally holding too much junk.

I'm going with the Harbor Freight welding cart with drawers with nice slides and a door over the "garage" lower section. $200 but it would take hours and hours, plus materials and wheels, for me to fab. And it will fit my new little welder. And if I shop the coupons it might be less.

313624

One of the most important questions is: What model of welding helmet is best? They have wide-field lenses now with 13 sq inches of view, very clear imaging, with less green cast. Problem: name brand models cost half what the welder machine costs!

Like I said, expensive hobby.

But welding is a satisfying experience for me -- connecting two pieces of metal together like they were machined from a solid block. Amazing when you think of it.

[country gent]

You dont have to actually buy the bottles a lot of welding shops sell a life lease on them. Around here its the better option your own tank you pay for any maintenance and wait to have it filled, a leased tank is exchanged in a few mins.

I have 2 tanks on my miller multi process 220. Ive used the stick/arc welding twice. The mig mostly and and have yet to switch it over to tig. I would like to add a second flow meter to the tig so purge welding could be done on tubing.

[OS OK]

Like shooting, welding can be an expensive hobby. I've been looking into TIG for many years, but every machine was like $3000.

An "M" tank of mixed Argon and CO2 to purchase is like $400. (Cheaper to refill, but still.) Then you need a cart to hold the welder, the tank and all the accessories. My little MIG cart is totally holding too much junk.

I'm going with the Harbor Freight welding cart with drawers with nice slides and a door over the "garage" lower section. $200 but it would take hours and hours, plus materials and wheels, for me to fab. And it will fit my new little welder. And if I shop the coupons it might be less.

313624

One of the most important questions is: What model of welding helmet is best? They have wide-field lenses now with 13 sq inches of view, very clear imaging, with less green cast. Problem: name brand models cost half what the welder machine costs!

Like I said, expensive hobby.

But welding is a satisfying experience for me -- connecting two pieces of metal together like they were machined from a solid block. Amazing when you think of it.

Now that's a nice little cart...like the door & drawers, here they'd keep the sawdust off everything in there.
I used to rent bottles in SoCal where I contracted, just tell them what size and what I wanted for gas and pay & go around the outside dock and pick them up. They always wanted an exchange bottle of the same size.
I had forgotten that and ended up spending what I spent on the TIG to get the gas set up.

I've heard this more than once about the hoods. "DON'T SKIMP ... YOU HAVE TO SEE CLEARLY WHAT YOUR DOING! GET READERS OR A MAGNIFIER LENS FOR THE HOOD!"
It's been said with just about the same emphasis as those all caps in the quote.

I've had one of Harbor Freights better helmets for prolly 6 years and it's been good for the MIG & STICK but it ain't actually adequate for the TIG. My brother Manny gave it to me for a B-Day present. I suspect it is not the pick of the litter for a professional welder! But...I've had the cataract lens installed and I can see like an old Eagle now but I did still round up a pair of magnifiers/readers to wear under the hood. GADGETS! Can't stand all the crap a man needs to do something simple. But...seeing that liquid pool of metal is awesome & helps a great deal.

I'd say..."Get ready, your going to spend some more precious deflated $'s to get a nice inflated hood!" :bigsmyl2:

[Phat Man Mike]

I'd watch that guy on YouTube. Welding tips and tricks. He's a good instructor and has welded in the Aerospace industry.