Clogging problem

[Echo]

And NOT Dancing! I bought a new RCBS furnace about a year ago. Used it some, but finally moved it indoors off the patio when winter hit. And the pour spout clogged up on me. I couldn't clear it, so I sent it back to RCBS for them to fix it - and they sent me a New One! Way to go, RCBS! But - now THAT one is clogged! I cranked it up full blast, 850 degrees, poked around from below with a safety pin, put a 1/16" drill in a small pin vice I have & drilled a hole (by hand!) all the way through the clog, torched with a butane torch, tried to completely clear, spun Phillips screwdrivers from above, I know the temp in the spout MUST have been over 1000 degrees, and No Joy. What am I recommended to do NOW??? I feel that most of the current problem is my fault - the ingots I loaded had been on the ground (dirt - my smelting table collapsed due to snow piling up, then melting and soaking the wood)) and may have carried some dirt into the mix. If so, I thought the dirt would have floated up to the top. And I really don't think dirt would fuse into the clog I am experiencing. What say, Guys?
(I never had a problem with my old SAECO furnaces, but they won't get up over 700 now, and a couple of my molds like it hot)

[Misery-Whip]

Ladle the lead out, and see if you can find the issue from on top. Clean ingots are your friend. I use a finnish nail locked in vicegrips for my plugs when i get them.

[Winger Ed.]

Empty the pot, let it cool down, and gently go from the bottom.

The clog came from the top, don't try to force it all the way down and out through the exit hole.

[Sasquatch-1]

Did you try a thermometer to make sure the bottom of the pot was getting hot? The PID could be bad.

[Winger Ed.]

Did you try a thermometer to make sure the bottom of the pot was getting hot? The PID could be bad.


Good thinking.

I don't use fancy PIDs or even a thermometer, However--
On my old pro-melt, sometimes when I first get going the bottom pour spout acts like its clogged.
But waving a propane torch on/under it a few seconds fixes it right up.

[Echo]

I poured the lead out, about a half load. Floor of furnace is totally visible.

[Echo]

I've torched it a couple of times, for a period of time, with no result. Well, the first time, I DID get a couple of drops of alloy, but that's all.

[Echo]

Can hardly go from the bottom. There isn't enough room to get serious - I HAVE used an opened-up safety pin, and another wire device, and the way is clear, if one allows 1/32" to be clear.

[georgerkahn]

I feel your 'pain' and frustration. My guess is you identified the cause, as you wrote, "the ingots I loaded had been on the ground (dirt - my smelting table collapsed due to snow piling up, then melting and soaking the wood)" and may have carried some dirt into the mix." Years back I bought a bunch of ingots from a local gas station which I was told were "pure wheel weights"... but apparently had everything from tobacco chaw to dirt in it. Enough to create similar challenges on a Lyman Mould Master. My solution? I dumped ALL out into a Freon jug I use for my initial lead melting (propane-fired) and followed saw-dust and candle fluxing with Brownell's Marv-e-Lux (sp?). It took, if I recall, three applications. Re the Mould-Master, bion (advice from a buddy) I used wood tooth-picks -- the round ones with a point on each end -- chucked in an egg-beater-style antique drill -- to clean the nozzle -- this while temp control was on max. (I needed the hand drill as electric drills are like a right-angle, and chucked tooth-pick was not long enough to reach pot orifice.) Of course I had to (simple) unscrew lift handle, but that was no challenge.
Process took a bit of time, but I wished to be most careful to not alter -- JUST CLEAN! -- orifice.
Good luck!
geo

[Land Owner]

I've experienced "Pro Melt" nozzle clogging too, as I formerly added cold ingots to the 20# pot, but always a clog that will flow after the application of external heat. Now, I use a 10# Lee pot to melt "standardized" 3# 49-49-2 percent Pb-WW-Sn ingots, which I bottom pour into a ladle and subsequently add to the Pro Melt near its depletion of melted alloy

Perhaps the adjustment is too close (see image) or the "nozzle shut off pin" is too long?

https://i.postimg.cc/HsMTS9sS/Pro-Melt-Adjustment.jpg

Or the hole through the nozzle is drilled too small? Using larger and larger (small diameter) drill bits, push them up through an unclogged hole to see at which diameter the nozzle was cut? Then call RCBS and ask what it should be.

If the hole you have and the hole they spec favorably compare, then heat is being kept from the nozzle. I do not know how a "heat sink" could occur from insulation or "heat isolation" as the liquid melt in the pot has to flow through the nozzle - a nozzle made from steel.

[Rich/WIS]

While dirt and crud in your alloy is a possibility wonder if there is some issue with your alloy. Pb/Sb/Sn alloys should flow easily at your high pot setting, could there be something else in the mix that is causing the problem. Some of the type casting alloys contain copper, which when diluted are not supposed to be a problem, but I'm not a metallurgist. Is it possible your alloy has something in it that is causing the problem?

[Duke3026]

Get yourself a welding tip file set. They cost very little, and prevent aggravation with clogs.

[gwpercle]

Check your alloy for Zinc contamination ... if zinc isn't causing the clog and a Lee pot will melt your alloy ... something's wonky with the RCBS design ... who wants a pot that freezes up at the nozzle ... that's not going to work very well .
Complain loud and long to RCBS ... the nozzle must get enough heat to flow or it's useless .

At least have them send you a " Free Dipper " ... Tell them you can then ladle cast boolits out the top and forget about the nozzle not flowing !
Gary

[Echo]

When I make my alloy, I try to emulate the standard WW+2#Sn, so most of my stuff in 2+%Sn, 4+% Sb, remainder Pb.

[Bmi48219]

….At least have them send you a " Free Dipper " ... Tell them you can then ladle cast boolits out the top and forget about the nozzle not flowing Gary

If you’re certain you’re not the cause of the problem I would be adamant they fix or replace your melter. A free dipper would be nice but after all, you bought a bottom pour machine.

[Sasquatch-1]

I have the new RCBS with the built in PID. I have not had a problem with mine. As stated earlier, get a thermometer to measure the temperature and make sure that it agrees with the PID. The biggest problem I have with mine is after you turn it off you are supposed to wait until it gets to 160* before unplugging.

[GregLaROCHE]

When you get it flowing, make sure to flux well and don’t drain the pot below one quater. I normally use a paper clip to clear the nozzle on my Lee pot. I think the flat end is better for pushing stuff up than a sharp point.

[Duckiller]

+1 what Greg said. Use a big paper clip. Hard to get once I retired but I recently found one in the street.

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

Do you have a analog thermometer, to confirm your alloy is getting hot enough?

The Promelt 2 has a poor design, where the PID's thermocouple mounts to the bottom of the heating element, instead of in contact with the molten alloy. It's highly likely that is your problem.

If you are handy with electrical stuff, here is a thread about modifying it
https://www.artfulbullet.com/index.php?threads/modifying-the-rcbs-pro-melt-2-pid-thermocouple.8909/

[HATCH]

I ran into this issue with a "commercial caster".
He purchased a automated master caster panel and automated his machine.
Second day after setting it up he called me and told me he had a continuous drip now.
He cast for 12 hours, thousands of boolits.
I asked what type of lead and he said anything he could get He was smelting in his casting pot.

Use only known quality lead and flux really good when casting in a bottom pour pot.
I would tape the pour handle wide open.
Using a pair of needle nose pliers put a paperclip up the pour spout.
The pour spot isn't freezing its being clogged with trash.

[35 Rem]

Large Paper Clip held in pliers has been my method for clearing clogs since the beginning. Some pots are more prone to clogging than others for sure. I've only owned Lee pots though so no experience with the RCBS.

[beagle]

Got a couple of Pro Melts I've used for years. Occassionally they get cranky so I drain the pot, let it cool and remove the valve rod or whatever it's called. Then, I take a long drill bit a little smaller than the hole in the spout and open the hole by holding the bit in a set of channel locks. The rod that seals the hole is chucked in a drill and all the crud is polished off with crocus cloth. A wooden dowel section is chucked in a drill and the seat for the rod is polished to remove any crud. Then it's assembled, lead is added and turned on. When it's hot enough, I touch bees wax or candle wax to the bottom of the spout and let it sit for about a minute. Then I open the valve and pour an ingot. Usually a bunch of crud is on top of the ingot. I smelt WWs, range lead and whatever in mine. This procedure keeps 'em running. Everytime you cast. touch the wax to the bottom of the spout before you make the first cast. Normally, this loosens any crud. One tap of the handle and it's cleaned out.
A good fluxing of the melt works wonders and keeping the spout crud free. If the pot starts to leak, repeat the wax on the bottom of the spout treatment and it ususally clears the seat for the rod and stops leaking. Never lost one to RCBS for a clog./beagle