"Woodworking" with Bois D'arc/Osage Orange

[Kosh75287]

If there is a forum section in which this thread would be better placed, MODS should feel free to move it there. On inspection, I could not find one that seemed more appropriate.

Not long ago, a very kind gentleman, a STERLING individual was kind enough to send me some chunks of Bois D'arc wood, which are of suitable shape/size for fashioning into pistol stocks. I am in his debt.

I've known, for a long time, that this species of wood is harder than hammered cat-STUFF, very dense, and can be difficult to work with. My progress is slow, due to the wood, and my marginal wood working skills.
I am seeking advice from more experienced wood workers (whether in general or with this species of wood, in particular), on best techniques and tools for such a project. Please DO NOT assume that any advice you might give is so obvious that I might already know it (if I DO already know it, it won't hurt me to hear it again).
I DO understand about going slowly, not just due to the nature of the wood itself, but also in the interest of "making mistakes slowly", so as to correct them. The nice thing about Bois D'arc is, even if one does NOT wish to go slowly, THEY WILL. I don't mind this, but I am not young. If there are techniques that save time/labor, I welcome hearing of them.
My tools are minimal. I have a portable hand saw, which I would not hesitate to use for large, gross cuts, but will likely stick to a fairly aggressive hand saw and a hack saw for any cuts requiring any level of precision. I have a serious-duty Dremel tool, with which I am semi-acquainted, which I would also not hesitate to put to use. I have an inexpensive, though very effective reverse-cut(?) "Japanese style" saw, also.
All/any constructive input is appreciated.

[MUSTANG]

Never did any wood work with the Bois Dark tree; but in the 1960's we spent a year living in a part of Texas where these grew. I remember it as being exceptionally hard as you mention. Also remember what we as Kid's called the Bo-Dark-Apples; those green fruits were in size between a Peach and a Grape Fruit if my memory serves me. Boys of the time and area were notorious for throwing them at each other in simulated and real "Battles". (See bottom right of attached picture below).

Thanks for posting, best wishes with your wood working effort. Sometimes it takes something like this thread to bring back pleasant memories of our youth - long forgotten.

http://texastreeid.tamu.edu/images/TreeImages/osage_orange150.jpg

[HWooldridge]

I use bois d'arc for hammer and ax handles, it's great stuff for that. I'm fortunate to have some growing on my place.

Helps to follow the grain, if possible. It's real bad about splintering if you cut the wrong direction, and it cracks badly if cut green and allowed to dry too quickly. If your chunks are cured, I'd probably saw to rough shape and sand to size (but I have a bandsaw and 2x60 knifemakers grinder, so it's easier for me).

Considering your tools, I'd probably follow the basic plan you have already laid out and see how hard it is to get the desired results.

[farmerjim]

I have one back by my pond. In 30 years of living in West Feliciana Parish, I have never seen another one.

[Mk42gunner]

I've made a few knife handles from it, one of these years I'll get around to making handgun grips. One of my grandpa's had a feed scoop with a hedge handle that lived in the feed crib, it was nicely polished after about fifty years of use.

Scary sharp tools help immensely.

If your piece of wood wants to crack after working on it, a coat of boiled linseed oil seems to stop it.

Robert

[Froogal]

Many, many fence posts have been cut from the Osage Orange tree. We called it HEDGE. Those fence posts last forever. I've also cut quite a bit of it for firewood. Makes a very HOT fire. I always thought the wood had a pretty color, but I'm not creative enough to ever actually carve anything out of it. I would like to see some pistol grips made from it. Only suggestion I can make would be to maybe use a dremel tool?

[beezapilot]

Go to the top of the page, click "outdoorsman" there is a section for knife making and what not. The same people will probably see your post here, but you may find some information that you are looking for in that section.

[sparky45]

Osage Orange, as it's called here is a beautiful wood to work with on a Lathe. Cuts like butter and almost needs no sanding. Once finished it will cure from a Yellow color to a warm Cocoa color, same as Mulberry. For shaping with hand tools, I'd use rasps and files.

[Hannibal]

I recently completed a single shot rifle and used Osage Orange for the butt stock and fore end. Mine had been air drying for about 10 years. I used a chain saw to cut the log into planks about 3" thick and traced the outline of the stock onto a plank. I don't have a bandsaw so I used a coping saw to cut it down to rough size. After that, I used a draw knife to thin it out. As others have said, you have to be careful doing that because if you go against the grain you'll wind up ripping out a large chunk. Very easy to do that and no fixing it after it starts. Anyway, I then used a wood rasp to do the majority of the shaping. Just one of the old school ones that are flat on one side and rounded on the other. The wood actually works pretty well with one of those. The new style rasp with the thin, replaceable rasp dig in too much and I broke one almost immediately when I tried to use it.
The rest of it was done with sandpaper. I actually started with 90 grit and even that left a smoother finish than I expected. Anything finer than that was just too slow cutting for shaping. Eventually I worked down to 220 grit and it feels like glass.
I'd post photos but apparently hosting software is required and I'm just not interested in doing that.

As you said, the wood will force you to go slow which is a good thing. Just stop often, take a little break and check your progress before you take off more than you want too.

I think you'll really like the results. I really like mine and it definitely has a unique appearance.

Good luck!

Edit to add - if you or someone else reading this would like a photo, PM me your email address and I'll send you one.

[stubshaft]

I have made a couple of self-bows out of Osage Orange. It is a very unique wood to work with and one thing that you have to keep in mind id that it WILL darken in color as it ages. One of the bows I made over 30 years ago started out as a beautiful golden yellow and is now the color of dark walnut!

[Handloader109]

Yep, a couple of good rasps and files, coping saw is inexpensive and would be good for rough cutting to shape. I've made some turned pens from one we cut down a couple of decades ago. I've got a bunch of fairly small pieces that are large enough for pens and knife scales.

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[BLAHUT]

Sharp, files, rasps, rotary cutters, coping saws, time, lots of time...... And when you get a chance, get to the Pashance store and buy a bucket full...

[Bruntson]

As mentioned before, a good rasp is mandatory for your grip project. Rough cut the wood to approximate size and start rasping away. I find a cardboard cutout of the size I want to grips to be very helpful. You will need a way to hold onto the wood blank as you rasp it. I would not use a Dremel tool, It is a fast way to make a big mistake.

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

I'd post this in Special Projects

[MarkP]

I made a mantle out of Osage Orange and in the process of making thick slab steps.
Sharp rasps to work. Ultra violet light darkens the wood from yellow to brown. Also the saw dust and chips will stain things yellow.

[Brokenbear]

First and foremost ..all your work will be for nought if you do not determine the wood's current moisture content which must be at no more than 8% ..It does not matter how old the wood is ..it is all about how the wood was processed to get it down to a moisture content that can be stabilized which is 8% or less ..so find a wood shop and ask then to stick it with a moisture meter ..won't take 2 seconds

If the wood is higher than 8% find someone with a band saw and slice it like a loaf of bread in 1/2" thick "slabs" 5" long ..paint the ends with ANY latex paint (the ends are how the moisture escapes and the paint reduces the speed of the water departure thereby reducing the chance of the wood cracking as it dries)

Then in an environmentally controlled room (AC & Heat) cribbage/stack up the slices of wood so air can flow thru it and put an electric fan on it for 48 hours or so

Then find some one with a belt sander and smooth the side of the slab that you intend to place against the gripframe

Next lay a piece of the grey paperboard like the backing cardboard of a paper tablet and lay the corner of the cardboard in the right angle up at the top of the gripframe then move it past the area of the right angle along the front and top of the angle by 1/4"

Then draw a cardboard pattern of your gripframe keeping that 1/4' spacing of outside the gripframe all the way around the gripframe

You now have your wood pattern ..draw the outline on your wood panel and saw it out ..begin the general contour at this point getting rid of overburden wood both outside the line as well as the contoured flow of the grip thickness n shape from top to bottom ..be sure to get rid of 99% of the excess wood from outside the wood as your first step

From here the road forks with the fact that which course you take to final fit depends on whether the butt of the grip panels are anchored by pins or by internal block like an 1873 Colt Single action

I'll just briefly say if pins are the butt anchors then drill your pin holes in your grip panels and then S-L-O-W-L-Y sand the right angle until fitment

If the Colt one piece system build your perfect fit in the right angles first leaving wood stick out all around the gripframe except the right angle ..once both panels are fitted build your anchor block insuring it is the exact thickness of the gripframe and that the block is well mated to the bottom as well as the front and back strap ..if the block can move downward or forwards or backwards then you grips can to ..last make sure before gluing and with the block in it expected anchorage point ..insure that it does not interfere with the hammer spring when cocking the pistol

Then sand the edges and contour to suit you and slather on 5 coats of TruOil 2days between coats using a 3M red scuffing pad to de-shine the prior coat ..and wallah grips !! simple really

Good Luck

Bear

[Bad Ass Wallace]

This year I'm having a block of Camphor Laurel milled ready for several gunstocks. It has been drying for 5 years and still has 12% moisture.

https://i.imgur.com/djtYRbFl.jpg

It makes into exceptional jewel and ammo boxes. I rate it on a par with walnut for hardness and workability.

https://i.imgur.com/JQBzDAal.jpg https://i.imgur.com/zhPy4fGl.jpg

Being located in Australia, I would like to see a picture or two of the woods that you describe.

[owejia]

Have made a couple of candy bowls out of it on my small metal working lathe and a walking stick cane,[river boat gamblers used these, loaded and set the fuse on fire with their cigar]. Made small shaped cannons for the grip of the cane. Also made small ram rods for the small cannons I used to make. Most of my cutting [turning] I used carbide tools. Rented a cattle farm for about 15 years that had some really big Osage orange trees. Hard on the chainsaw chains. Burns hot leaves few ashes. Pulled fence posts that had been in the ground for over 50 years and the heart wood was still good. Also used a small air powered hand sander to do most of the finish work. Have a pair of grips that was started about 10 years ago that will probable never get finished.

[JimB..]

I would not use the Japanese saw. They are designed for soft wood, the teeth will get bent. Other than that, everything above.

i’ve only worked it on a lathe, it works great.

[waksupi]

This year I'm having a block of Camphor Laurel milled ready for several gunstocks. It has been drying for 5 years and still has 12% moisture.

https://i.imgur.com/djtYRbFl.jpg

It makes into exceptional jewel and ammo boxes. I rate it on a par with walnut for hardness and workability.

https://i.imgur.com/JQBzDAal.jpg https://i.imgur.com/zhPy4fGl.jpg

Being located in Australia, I would like to see a picture or two of the woods that you describe.

Your ambient humidity may be keeping the wood in that range. I found when I bought stock blanks from the east coast, I needed to dry them another year to have them fully stabilized if time permitted. It would usually drop the moisture content by around 4%.
On the other hand, if I built a rifle here and sent it back east, I had to be sure to leave plenty of internal clearance, as the wood would gather moisture again, and caused function problems a couple times.

[MaryB]

Bow wood! I know a couple people who have made bows from the heartwood. Draw knife, back of a buck knife blade for a scraper... just keep working it until you get what you want. SHARP tools!

[WRideout]

When I made (walnut) grips for my little 25 Auto, I used a piece of wood thick enough to make both grips. Shaped them to approximate finished size and shape; then split them in two with my dovetail saw. This insured that both grips are identical in outline.

Wayne

[45_Colt]

Being located in Australia, I would like to see a picture or two of the woods that you describe.

This is a piece of Osage that was just split. Have some in the firewood pile. Can see where the exposed areas are dark. This wood was kept under cover, it just darkens over time.

312213

45_Colt

[Texas by God]

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Here’s some pics that Hannibal sent of his Horse Apple stock. Nice work!


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[Hannibal]

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Here’s some pics that Hannibal sent of his Horse Apple stock. Nice work!


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Thank you for posting these for me! Much appreciated!

[contender1]

I've always been very interested in finding some of the Osage Orange wood blanks to try making into handgun grips. I've only seen one tree locally here,, and it wasn't about to be cut down by the owner.

I wonder where a small amount of it could be found to experiment with?

[MaryB]

I've always been very interested in finding some of the Osage Orange wood blanks to try making into handgun grips. I've only seen one tree locally here,, and it wasn't about to be cut down by the owner.

I wonder where a small amount of it could be found to experiment with?

https://kjpselecthardwoods.com/collections/osage-orange/products/4-4-rough-cut-osage-orange-lumber

[Daver7]

I don't think it has been mentioned yet. a carbide blade is a must in power saws.

[Shopdog]

Have cut right much for use in trad bows... it's hard on tooling(bandsaws). Great for risers because of the density and an uncanny nice,feel in the hand. Little sluggish on limbs(laminated) and the weight here isn't optimal. Overall a delightful bow wood.

[Hannibal]

I don't think it has been mentioned yet. a carbide blade is a must in power saws.

I don't agree on that. I used to cut a bunch of it with chainsaws and I never noticed it being any worse than any other hardwood such an locust or oak.

The biggest gripe I had with it is that it seldom grows straight, has a whole bunch of limbs and you wind up with more tops than logs. If you find a piece long enough for a full length stock then you hit the lottery.

Now. If it will only season without splitting every which a way. Paint the ends with a heavy coat of shellac and don't get your hopes up.

[HWooldridge]

I don't agree on that. I used to cut a bunch of it with chainsaws and I never noticed it being any worse than any other hardwood such an locust or oak.

The biggest gripe I had with it is that it seldom grows straight, has a whole bunch of limbs and you wind up with more tops than logs. If you find a piece long enough for a full length stock then you hit the lottery.

Now. If it will only season without splitting every which a way. Paint the ends with a heavy coat of shellac and don't get your hopes up.

The splitting is my biggest problem with osage. I’ve had really nice pieces split all the way to the center, even when sealed on the ends.

[Hannibal]

The splitting is my biggest problem with osage. I’ve had really nice pieces split all the way to the center, even when sealed on the ends.

Yes, it can happen. It is definitely not an easy wood to work with for things like gunsmithing projects, storage boxes or similar things.

Edit to add - my approach has been to let it season for several years and then when I 'slab' cut it with my chainsaw I follow the splits to remove them. I then let the slabs season another couple of years. All the seasoning is done inside with environmental controls. Definitely not going to be worth the trouble for everyone. I can say that I've yet to have any of it split again once I start working with it.

[WRideout]

I've always been very interested in finding some of the Osage Orange wood blanks to try making into handgun grips. I've only seen one tree locally here,, and it wasn't about to be cut down by the owner.

I wonder where a small amount of it could be found to experiment with?

Rockler also has it. https://www.rockler.com/osage-orange-by-the-piece?country=US&sid=V91040&promo=shopping&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_term=&utm_content=pla&utm_campaign=PL&gclid=CjwKCAjw_YShBhAiEiwAMomsECV6i7qa9TZYdb45ugYw wTjqvAeuQ4KJSvsRMA1BZmSDSg9NZHMZ4hoCJYcQAvD_BwE
Wayne

[akajun]

theres quite a few in Tunica, Saw them often when surveying and hunting. Also seen the largest rattler Ive ever seen under one where the big green balls were littered all over the ground.

[Texas by God]

theres quite a few in Tunica, Saw them often when surveying and hunting. Also seen the largest rattler Ive ever seen under one where the big green balls were littered all over the ground.

That rattler may have been squirrel hunting over bait. Squirrels around here love horse apples.


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[Kosh75287]

Mercifully, I'm just trying to carve out some stocks/grips for a 1911A1, so not much thickness is required. The geometries involved are also fairly simple, so the good news is that the project is fairly simple. The BAD news is that, when it comes to woodworking, SO AM I.

[Hannibal]

Mercifully, I'm just trying to carve out some stocks/grips for a 1911A1, so not much thickness is required. The geometries involved are also fairly simple, so the good news is that the project is fairly simple. The BAD news is that, when it comes to woodworking, SO AM I.

A simple project is the best one to start with. Just take your time and don't get in any kind of a hurry. If you're tired or aggravated resist the temptation to 'just get it done' and wait for another time. Gunsmithing projects are my hobby and I do them to relax. I wouldn't want a hobby that creates stress for me. I've already got plenty of things that I have to do I'd rather not. Have fun with it!

[dh2]

I grew up on Missouri farm and remember Osage Orange, Hedge and called it many other 4 letter names over the years. My grandfather used it for many fence post many that have lasted more than 70 years. I hated to cut them because it was more like a bush than a tree and had thorns that would reach out to stick you.
In recent years I was told on a tour that it was used for building Civil War battle ships because it was hard a even shooting it with a cannon ball it was very durable.

It does have a tendency to warp and crack as it drys and hardens with age. I would want to dry it as much as possible to not have this problem in my finished work. So giving it an hour or more in the over with a low temp like 250 degrees would be my starting point. In my wood working I do this for many small wooden pieces to the point that I have a old oven in my shop to avoid trouble with the wife

[fecmech]

Here are 2 of the 3 trees on my property next to my patio. My guess is they are around 100yrs old as they were big when I moved here in 1968. They are male trees so I don't get the messy fruits in my yard. Whoever planted them knew what they were doing. My wife and I love these trees. Sorry about the sideway shot.

[fixit]

I have to say, I love Osage! The colors and character are great, and the wood has such variety from tree to tree. I have worked with pieces that were wide ringed and forgiving, and others that had paper thin rings that were a nightmare to follow. Fresh cut, the color ranges from electric yellow to burnt orange.....and it keeps changing and becomes more complex in appearance. I haven't made grips yet, but it's on my list!

[Kosh75287]

PROGRESS UPDATE:

I finally got one of the fragments split into two (semi) flat pieces. It took 4 days, a lot of head-scratching, every saw in the house, and a new carbide-tipped saw blade. In a classically nimrod move, I tried sawing from every possible direction, and came away with a "step" on the piece, probably 1/32" to 1/16" higher, that must be made flat with the other roughly 60% of the sawn piece.
The most coarse grit sand paper I seem to be able to find is 60, which puts my progress rate in the spectrum of "mind-numbingly slow" to "not readily perceptible". I'm looking around for 40 grit for non-industrial machines (does anyone make a 20-grit? LOL), but that search has just begun.
BTW, does anyone know of a good use for Bois d'arc sawdust and shavings? I seem to have cornered the market on both.
Images to follow, IF I learn how to post them on here.

If I have not already said so, I am indeed grateful for everyone's input on how to approach this project. The "pashance" purchase was an astute and well taken suggestion!

[Hannibal]

If you can find one of those classic flat/rounded rasps I'd try to do the majority of your shaping with that. I'm not sure why but when it comes to Osage Orange and sandpaper everything seems to cut as if it was 100 grit at the most. Never encountered anything like that before.

[truckjohn]

Density/hardness and workability wise, this stuff is right in there with rosewood class woods like black locust, desert ironwood, and ipe. It's way harder and heavier than walnut class woods used on gun stocks (walnut, birch, soft maple, beech, hickory and nut woods.)

It is great for some things, not so good for others. I'm not a fan of heavy rifle stocks, so I would pass on that. For pistol grips, I think it would be fine, albeit plain. I love the streaky grain and color of rosewood and good walnut.

Color wise - freshly sawn, it's day glow nuclear snot chartreuse. It will oxidize to medium orangey "Wood color" mud brown pretty quickly with UV exposure. Many varnishes will also darken it to that same brown color.

The sawdust will turn your snot chartreuse too...

If you've got wood big enough and clear/straight grained enough for bow staves or guitar plates, I would sell it into those respective communities, as it is in demand. Use the money to buy black walnut... ;)

Working it wise... Sharp and well set hand planes and some wood chisels go a long way, as do quality fine cut cabinet rasps like a Nicholson #50. Don't bother with ferrier's rasps. They are too coarse. Make sure you get a quality file handle and a file card to keep the teeth clean.

Sticky back sandpaper on a piece of wood creates an abrasive rasp. Check out floor sander paper. Otherwise, you can order rolls of adhesive backed sandpaper online.

Sawing it isn't particularly hard with a well set and sharp hand saw. Any decent bandsaw or circular saw will cut it fine. Routers work fine as well. It is no worse than any wood in its class.

[Rapier]

Sometimes when working on wood, especially rough cut, it is good idea to have a real sharp planer or a tough old belt sander. If you put the belt sander upside down in a padded vice, then pull the triggger and push the lock button, you get a home brew flat, backed, horizontal belt sander with whatever grit you have belts for. I use my 2 1/2 HP 4x24 Porta Cable like that with all kinds of belts. The verticle belt sander without a backer works well for rounds, such as stock combs.

[farmbif]

I've been chipping away at what ive been told is ironwood, it was a piece of firewood from the woodshed and since its now nice and dry and its not cracked up on the ends ive been trying to square it up on the jointer and it is tough cutting stuff and its only about 3 1/2" in diameter. eventually ill get it squared up and maybe try to use it for something

[Kosh75287]

Thanks, Hannibal. I'll remember the rasp, this time around.
What you describe is EXACTLY what's happening to me with the sanding. I surmise that the sawdust created, unless constantly cleared away, like as soon as it forms, creates a sort of "buffer" between the abrasive and the object to be sanded.

[fixit]

I would have to disagree with the nay-saying about the farriers rasp.... It's one of my favorite tools for removal of excess wood. One word of warning, though....the course side will remove a lot of flesh with one stroke. The finer side is good for getting close to the sanding size.

[waksupi]

I've made quite a few sinew backed osage bows over the years. I find that using a scraper for final finish works better than sand paper.

[warren5421]

Watch that you don't have an allergic reaction to the dust. In the last 55 years I have put several 100 Osage post in the ground with hand post hole digger. Have had no reaction to it, but was building a small box as a gift and both of my arms began to itch and get red marks. Can do posts but not any building from lumber.

[Charlie Horse]

Sawdust can be quite hazardous. Black walnut is another bad one.

I like making small campfires from hedge. The sticks snap easily and burn hot with little smoke.

[Hannibal]

Apparently I'm very lucky then. I created quite a bit of chips and dust making that stock and had dust all over me more than once. Luckily I never had any noticeable reaction of any kind.