Blackhawk trigger modifications

[jeff423]

I recently got a .41 Super Blackhawk Hunter. The factory trigger was miserable (I'm spoiled, all my other revolvers up to that point were Smiths) about 5lbs, long and gritty pull.
I bought a Power Custom hammer and trigger with a spring kit. The trigger is now crisp, with no creep and less than 2 lbs. It's actually too light and I think I'll install a heavier spring from the kit.
It was a drop-in installation. But I did have to polish (not grind) one of the Ruger parts to get it to fit the tighter clearances of the PC trigger. It was less that 20 min. for the whole job.
It now has almost as good a trigger as my Model 52.

Jeff

[targetshootr]

Those Powers kits are nice. A bud has several custom guns with them installed by Jim Stroh and they're as nice as a smooth three screw. I put one in a new model flat top 44 and it locks up as tight as a snare drum.

[44man]

Yes the Ruger can made be made to have a wonderful trigger. I will not, however use a weaker mainspring and I even install an over power Wolfe variable mainspring.
I just put the hammer on my tool grinder and remove half the sear surface, then polish and remove the sharp edge. Then I re-bend the trigger spring.
I get mine to 1-1/2# but I have to caution you about too light of a trigger. If the trigger kicks forward when you pull it, it can drop the transfer bar, cause a hang fire or failure to fire. Original transfer bars are too short so I make my own by hand to extend higher and cover the whole firing pin at full cock.
Installing a lighter but FASTER mainspring is OK so if you have a good fast spring, don't worry about it.
The best way to increase trigger pull a little is with the trigger spring itself. If the trigger is done correctly, changing the mainspring will not change pull enough to really feel and you can even go to a 28# spring and still have a nice trigger.
I offer another caution. If you have any single action with a half cock notch, NEVER remove ANY metal from the hammer sear surface. To remove creep from these, I soft solder shim stock on the hammer to hold the trigger out farther WITH A COPPER IRON, no torch allowed. The brass shim is easy to file for a creep free trigger. Someday I am going to figure out how to drill and tap a hammer for a tiny setscrew to adjust creep with.
The fact is that a Ruger with a transfer bar can be made to have a great trigger without spending a dime. I suppose I can do it in a half hour or so.
But then again, I am cheaper then dirt! :mrgreen:

[farmer66]

44man,

Do you know the depth of the step on the hammer when you get done? I am guessing about 0.020 inch? I don't want to go to far!

Thanks,
Ken

[44man]

No, I eyeball them. I just try to take half off a factory hammer. I mark them with a marking pen and scribe a scratch across the center and grind to it. Best to approach it slowly and test if you are a beginner. You just need to put the gun together more times.
I never did make a test block for fitting.
I use a triangular ceramic stone to polish. Be careful to not change any angles. It takes very little stoning to smooth them.
I just use the stone to break the sharp edge when done. Just remove any burr.
I put Brownell's Action Lube on the surfaces and in the hammer strut depression. I have never found a need to polish any parts. It never made things feel better. Gun oil on the pins is good.
When I did S&W's I would put a high polish on the sliding parts, or jewel them.
Once the creep is gone from the Ruger, the trigger pull can be set with just the trigger spring.
My SBH has way over 59,000 heavy loads through it without any changes or wear. My home made transfer bar has no marks on it.
I like light triggers and have my BFR 45-70 down to 19 oz. It needed a new transfer bar too for that light. Stay around 2# or a little more and the factory bar works.
Most of you would do well with a 3#, creep free trigger.
Ruger's and BFR's (oversize Ruger's.) have the ideal design for trigger work. The factories do not do them justice. Legal crap you know.

[Hipshot]

The cheap mans way of improving the trigger on a Blackhawk is to detach one of the trigger return spring legs! Takes 1 second if the grips are off !

Hipshot

[Topper]

The cheap mans way of improving the trigger on a Blackhawk is to detach one of the trigger return spring legs! Takes 1 second if the grips are off !

You caught me hipshot.
Been shooting mine like that for many years now, same caliber.

[44man]

The cheap mans way of improving the trigger on a Blackhawk is to detach one of the trigger return spring legs! Takes 1 second if the grips are off !

Hipshot
But the creep is still there! :mrgreen: I hate that long, gritty pull.
I do that on a gun once in a while too but I still take away the creep first.

[Hipshot]

44man,
I was lucky---no creep, just heavy---my problem was solved. If you don't want to stone a little fine valve grinding compound will help !

Hip

[fourarmed]

Another old trick you probably already know: dry fire with forward pressure on the hammer. It will burnish the engagement surfaces and smooth the gritty feel.