Working on First Molds

[deltaenterprizes]

I finished making the jaws for my centering vise to hold the blocks from designs sent to me from members here and I am working on making blocks to use to cut the cavities. Thanks for the help.
It is a very slow process,to say the least! My 4 x 6 import saw is not the most accurate so excess must be left to allow for the taper in the cut. I am using a 1'' cutter with carbide inserts and cutting aluminum so chips are flying everywhere.
I am working on each half individually so if I screw up only 1 piece will be scrap instead of a half dozen!When finished I will have enough blocks to make 7 molds. the first will be a 30 cal design nose pour done with a cherry made by Eagan that I got from ebay. Wish me luck!

[docone31]

Good for you!!!!
I have done a lot of things. I do not have the schmutz to even consider makeing a mold.
Take some photos. It will be fascinating to watch.

[3006guns]

Regarding the saw and a tapered cut.......did you install a new blade? If the kerf is worn off one side from previously cutting steel, etc. they will cut crooked every time.

Loose blade tension will cause crooked cuts also.

Check to see if all the bolts at the hinge point are tight. A loose one throws the whole thing off.

I usually check mine with a machinist square in the vise and slowly lowering the non-running blade, watching the gap between the two. The human eye is pretty good at judging a gap with light shining through it. If it does have an error, the whole cutting head can be carefully shimmed until it lowers straight...which is how the factory is SUPPOSED to correct them before shipping.

[deltaenterprizes]

I am using the saw in the upright position with a fence clamped to the table,new blade 14 tpi and at the fastest speed setting. I did use a square to set the blade and it was out a little it is an old cheap saw so I don't expect much.

[Buckshot]

..............Pictures? :-)

..............Buckshot

[Bret4207]

My Chinkwanese saw does the same thing, new blade or old, set at tight as I dare. And if I run the blade guides up they block the saws cut and I can't finish the cut. What do you expect for $189.99?!

[BABore]

I've got a good band saw in my shop (Parma Work-O-Matic). Running new Starrett blades, it will still cut off of square. Everytime a new blade is put in you may have to adjust the fence a couple degrees one way or the other. Just the nature of the beast. Everything is cut a 1/16 over anyway and squared on all sides in the mill. Block sets should be stamped and milled as matched pairs for best results.

[leftiye]

I just make my blocks a bit (whatever it takes) oversize, and saw them in two. Leave enough to mill down to a spec. for thickness of a mold half. My reason for this is that I drill the locator pin holes before cutting the halves apart to get a perfect fit. My old saw has never cut square, no matter how much I tweaked it (or beat on it). Feeding by hand on my homemade table works very well if you use a scribe mark, and keep the edge of the cut touching the line.

[BABore]

I just got one finished up for my new Marlin 336 38-55 rebore. Hopefully the PB version will be done next week.

[arcticbreeze]

Those look awesome!!!!

[theperfessor]

Very, very nice looking mold...