.30-06 With a Lee Loader? Info on milder loadings

[John in WI]

I just went to my local ammo go-to, and they wanted over $2 a round for some Hornady hunting ammo. I refuse to drop $40+ for a box of ammo!

I do have about 200 casings, all fired from the same rifle, so it seems like a Lee Loader could do a good job reloading for a .30-06.

I'd like to work up a milder plinking/200yd or less whitetail load for it. Maybe a 150-160gr, 2300-2500fps. (that should put it somewhere around a .30-30 or .308).

I have a concern about using a Lee Loader for this. I have one for .38spl, and using Lee molded boolits, (.358 they are supposed to be), I frequently get a small shaving of lead coming off while seating them. Maybe I'm not using the Lee Loader right, but I watched several vids on it, it really seems like it's hard to do it wrong.

Has anyone else had good success with a Lee Loader in .30-06, or something similar?

Speaking of molds, I don't have a .30 mold, but am thinking about a Lee .309 in 150gr flat point. I realize that would really limit long range performance, vs. a Spitzer or round nose. But the absolute maximum range I can shoot is under 200 yards.

At a quick glance, it looks like ~11gr Unique is a nice plinker load, and up to 24gr (according to an old Lyman manual) was hot.

What do you think? The cost of supplies (a mold and a Lee Loader) would equal the cost of 4 boxes of shells at that price. If I could figure out a lighter recoiling load for it, I would take it out plinking more often.

[BLAHUT]

They work, I used one for 8mm when starting out reloading, IF you can get components it will work, just bell the case mouth if loading cast bullets.
Get a loading listing for 30-06 and work from there ?

[elmacgyver0]

If it is a bolt action or single shot rifle it should work fine, an autoloader not so much, if you art talking the whack-a-mole type Lee Loader.

[fastdadio]

Some light load data;
http://www.gmdr.com/lever/lowveldata.htm
Some data to get you into the 2300-2500 fps range;
http://bearblain.com/Service%20Rifle%20Loadings.html

[Silvercreek Farmer]

18-21g 2400 with the Lee 170g has been a winner for us (gas checked). Probably only 1700-1900 fps. Put a pile of deer in the freezer at up to 150 yards, but most work has been done around 50 or so. Sub 2 MOA out to 300 yards, but the wind will work on you at those velocities. Not sure if you are flaring your cases for the 38, but a pair of needle nose pliers pushed into the case closed and rotated a bit will work in a pinch. If Unique is what you have on hand, I’d probably start at 13 grains in the 30-06 and work up until accuracy falls off. I wouldn’t expect you’ll get much past 16g and 1700 fps or so with a 150-170g boolit.

The Lee loader will work, especially with light loads that don’t work the brass too much, but at some point your cases will get hard to chamber. A light 30-06 load was my first foray into handloading and, on the advice of those here, I went with a Lee Hand press, Lee 4 die set, and Lyman M-die expander. The 4 die set allows you to full length size (albeit with some effort) when cases become hard to chamber, as well as using the crimp die to uniformly squeeze down the flare. Keep asking questions if needed, all this was clear as mud for me at first. Good shooting to you!

[farmbif]

as stated earlier, when seating a cast bullet you have expand the case mouth first so the shaved lead scenario does not occur.
as far a bullet weight/ distance and velocity. with a stock factory barrel velocity will be limited by twist rate. a very good cast bullet design for 30-06 is Lyman 311299. since twist rate will limit max velocity higher bullet weight is not a problem and you may find to be good for longer distance.

[Larry Gibson]

It's easy enough to load 30-06 cartridges with a Lee Loader. You will need a small tool to bell the case mouths if cast bullets are used. There should be such a tool in your 38 SPL Lee Loader set. Lee used to sell them for 30 cal, not sure if they still do. If not, one would be easy enough to make.

To be frank I believe you find you expectations for a cast bullet in your 30-06 to be a bit unrealistic, I.E., " Maybe a 150-160gr, 2300-2500fps." Your 30-06 will have a 10" twist in the barrel. Obtaining suitable accuracy, even "hunting accuracy", at that velocity is very, very difficult....mostly not probable. For hunting, a suitable 170 - 180 gr quality cast bullet pushed at 1940 fps can give you very good hunting accuracy to 200 yards with sufficient retained velocity to do the job. That, actually, is in the realm of a 30-30. That kind of cast bullet performance has accounted for countless deer out of forum members 30-30s, 300 Savages, .308Ws and 30-06s along with similar 30/31 caliber rifles.

Also consider you will be needing to use GCs. I suggest you download the Lyman Cast Bullet Handbook #3 and read/study the sections regarding casting and loading cast bullets. It's an excellent primer for cast bullet loading.

[Gewehr-Guy]

I am a big fan of the Lee Loader, thats what started me into reloading. You should find the 30-06 easy to reload with it, cast or jacketed bullets, although with cast you will need to bell the necks to avoid shaving lead. I have used a tapered punch, and some have recommended spinning the point of a needle nose pliers in the case mouth.

The 11gr Unique load sounds good, the 24gr is way excessive in my opinion, especially with lead. I haven't used the Lee 150 gr bullet, but really like the 170gr flat nose, and would recommend it for deer. You should gas check your bullets if shooting above plinking velocities, you might consider a Lee push through bullet sizeing die.

[frkelly74]

It's easy enough to load 30-06 cartridges with a Lee Loader. You will need a small tool to bell the case mouths if cast bullets are used. There should be such a tool in your 38 SPL Lee Loader set. Lee used to sell them for 30 cal, not sure if they still do. If not, one would be easy enough to make.

To be frank I believe you find you expectations for a cast bullet in your 30-06 to be a bit unrealistic, I.E., " Maybe a 150-160gr, 2300-2500fps." Your 30-06 will have a 10" twist in the barrel. Obtaining suitable accuracy, even "hunting accuracy", at that velocity is very, very difficult....mostly not probable. For hunting, a suitable 170 - 180 gr quality cast bullet pushed at 1940 fps can give you very good hunting accuracy to 200 yards with sufficient retained velocity to do the job. That, actually, is in the realm of a 30-30. That kind of cast bullet performance has accounted for countless deer out of forum members 30-30s, 300 Savages, .308Ws and 30-06s along with similar 30/31 caliber rifles.

Also consider you will be needing to use GCs. I suggest you download the Lyman Cast Bullet Handbook #3 and read/study the sections regarding casting and loading cast bullets. It's an excellent primer for cast bullet loading.


I agree with the heavier slower payload . Lee has a 180 and a 200 gr round nose mold available ad you can work up good loads with either. Also if you have a pair of needle nose pliers you can use that to bell your cases. Insert and twist but don't over do it . You want just enough bell to prevent shaving. Have fun be safe.

Also just an observation on boolit size. All my 30 cal rifles seem to like .311 sized boolits. If they chamber easily they will shoot without problem, asuming you have a safe powder charge. Make a few dummy rounds to get the chambering issues , if any, worked out.

[Mk42gunner]

I'll also recommend getting a good powder scale. You aren't going to be loading anywhere near fullhouse loads of powder so the Lee dipper will not work for what you want to do.

Even though the Lee powder scale is about the cheapest available, I will advise getting another brand. I have one and it is a PITA to set and use.

Robert

[725]

Mr. Gibson gives great advice. Cast bullets do the job and do it very well. It's just not jacketed. For a hunting bullet, I firmly suggest a heavy bullet at a slower velocity. 200 yards isn't impossible, but I think lots of practice in the casting / loading & shooting is necessary for ethical kills. Good luck & have fun.

[Winger Ed.]

Loading any rifle ammo on one is no big deal.
A little slow maybe, but there is good reasons why they have sold so many over the years.
If you cast for it, and don't have the gear to put on gas checks, powder coating will let you get up close to the gas check speeds.
Shooting cast in the .30-06, the 'power' of it is also real close to a full house .30-30.

I'd encourage getting a Lyman Cast handbook and a powder scale.
Something that might also interest ya is to do a little research to check out 'the load'.
it's 13 gr. of Red Dot for .30-06. I've had good luck with it behind a cast 190 SP and a 170RN.

[Milky Duck]

the 150grn hp that is the same as the 170gn flat point works very well 30/06 will be a doddle to load for,you have a heap of cases,keep using them and at some point down track..say 4-5 loadingsfind someone to FLR them and carry on as before.
there is heaps of reduced load data out there for jacketed projectiles..125-130grn loads in .30/06 are a lot of fun and very very effective,they dont need to be at full power to be effective on lighter game... neckshot feral goats with these are close to decapitated.... chest shots leave lungs pulped,just dont hit major bones if using lighter projectiles pushed fast...
leeloaders are heaps of fun..I have a few of them and if we can poke out .270w ammunition that is as good as if not better than factory offerings,you can do same for the mighty 06.

[John in WI]

Thanks for all the solid information and thoughts! I do use the case mouth expanding tool from Lee what loading .38. It has a stop on it, so it only allows a small amount of flare. I need to try using another tool, such as a close needle-nose pliers to see if a touch more flaring would help.
I have a digital copy of the Lyman cast manual someplace. If I can get my old laptop to fire up, it should be on there.
I also picked up a cheap bug decent digital reloading scale. I'm a chemist by training, and have a set of calibration weights. I tested it down to 0.005g, and it seems to do quite well. For the little bit I shoot, I would definitely weigh all the components--make sure the boolits are very close, make sure the powder charge is +/- 0.1gr. Without consistency, you can't get precision.
Thanks for the thoughts. I'll dig up my Lyman Cast book. I have a decent rifle alloy (have to check my notes, but it was WW with a bit of tin). I'll check in once I do some more research. The other issue is ensuring I can actually find the other components I need, like primers and powder.

[RickinTN]

To be honest, and I hate to rain on everybody's parade, If you are only going to shoot 2 to 3 boxes a year in your 30-06 it is probably best just to belly up and buy factory rounds. If saving money is your goal then I think this is your best bet. If you have a local Wal-mart give them a visit. The Remington yellow and green box ammo is as good as it gets for hunting and you should be able to beat the $40/box by a good margin. Online retailers also could be your friend. I believe the days of $12/box are over but I think you can beat $40/box.
Good Luck to you in whatever you decide,
Rick

[DocSavage]

Get a hand priming tool using a rod and mallet to seat primers would make me a bit nervous.

[racepres]

I'll also recommend getting a good powder scale. You aren't going to be loading anywhere near fullhouse loads of powder so the Lee dipper will not work for what you want to do.

Even though the Lee powder scale is about the cheapest available, I will advise getting another brand. I have one and it is a PITA to set and use.

Robert
In todays world... digital scales are really Cheap... get one with +/- .02 or some such for peanuts... Don't trust it... Keep a dime handy..


Get a hand priming tool using a rodd and mallet to seat primers would make me a bit nervous.
Read the other Lee Loader thread... the mallet works very well indeed... has been for Billions (like how much gifted to Ukraine) of rounds ..

[toallmy]

Honestly after purchasing a press , the leeloaders are around the costs of a set of dies . Shoot cast - but don't overlook a box of a 100 jacketed for hunting if needed .

[mdi]

I have 7 Lee Loaders. I started with one in 38 Special in 1970. I have two for bottle necked cartridges, 30-06 and 7.62x54r. A couple thoughts; I would suggest starting with some jacketed bullets. Loading cast is a bit more involved, with the need for flaring and finding an alloy or gas checking to avoid leading. Also I would recommend a scale. The Safety Scale is usable and quite accurate and repeatable (a bit slower to settle and one has to learn to use a vernier scale). Dippers work quite well but accurate powder charges is a must. Sometimes when I feel "retro" I'll get out one of my Lee Loaders and pound out a few rounds. Richard Lee using a Lee Loader https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UeEl9wZyabc

A problem now is components. Primers are difficult to find and expensive, and when in stock hover around $100.00 per thousand (I have seen some vendors selling large rifle primers for $18.00 per 100 count sleeve). Hunting bullets can be found for about $40.00 per hundred fairly easily. Powders for 30-06 seem fairly easy to find if you shop around. And if you buy powder or primers on line you have to pay the rip-off Haz-Mat fee which seems to vary but usually around $30.00.

Casting is another addition to reloading but start up may not be worth the costs of alloy, molds, and assorted equipment which can be quite expensive depending on what level of equipment you choose (But I started casting with a stainless steel pot, a Coleman stove, a Lee ladle and a plastic mallet, I fluxed with sawdust and crayons, swiped a slotted spoon from Ma's kitchen for skimming and lubed with alox. Worked just OK and I had a lot of culls as temperatures were harder to control.).

Lee Loaders are fun and simple and can load some quality ammo. But with the crazy reloading scene today it's not as easy to start as it was 4 years ago. I enjoy reloading and casting (I reload 5 handgun and 4 rifle calibers) and I won't buy a gun that I cannot reload for, except rimfire. But I have stocked up over the years so components are not a problem for me. I'd suggest reading up on reloading, checking vendors for components and maybe you'll just have to bite the bullet and buy factory ammo (shop around on line and you'll probably find 30-06 hunting ammo for less than $2.00 per round). I often check here for ammo; https://www.ammobuy.com/ammo/30-06

[smkummer]

You got great advise above. We started with a lee target model loader ( mid 1970’s) for 30-06 (M1 garand) and it worked great until we got another M1 garand and that ammo wouldn’t work in the newer M1 garand until we got a rcbs rock chucker and full length sizing dies. I have used a fat tapered nail punch as a flaring tool for 30 cal. cases when loading cast bullets.

[Shiloh]

They work.
I have 1 or 2 still. Slow, but produce good ammo.

Shiloh

[Alferd Packer]

Always fun to read!

[Bmi48219]

….Lee Loaders are fun and simple and can load some quality ammo….

Darn right. I remembered reading an article in the 70’s about a competition rifle shooter that won a national match shooting ammo he had loaded with a Lee Loader. He actually reloaded his brass from each session at the event, and used it in the next session.
If you get right down to it, some shooters are more accurate than others, some firearms are more accurate than others and some firearms are more accurate with a specific brand / loading of ammo. Developing super accurate ammo for a particular firearm boils down to experimenting with various components, weights and dimensions. Once the right recipe and technique is found there’s no reason to think a Lee Loader can’t produce a winner.

[hwilliam01]

This will solve the flaring problem for cast bullets. It is common for any 30 caliber. 30-30, .308, 30-06..all the same caliber. Great tool and worth the money!

https://leeprecision.com/custom-flaring-tool-for-lee-loader.html

[deces]

Here is a video I watched last night of a demonstration on the Lee loader. At some point he talks about belling the case for the bullet and after seating the bullet, he then crimps it into place with the die.

https://youtu.be/hsEuQq7pCbY

https://leeprecision.com/custom-flaring-tool-for-lee-loader.html

[openbook]

A lot of folks started out thinking OP was a new reloader, but OP has over 500 posts and latterly, he mentioned he loads 38 Spc. For the original concern about shaving lead, three guys already mentioned the needle-nose plier trick I was thinking of. I did that with good success on a range of calibers until I bought a Lee universal case mouth flaring tool (it's not as good as an M die because it doesn't make a straight flare, so it's harder on both brass and the soft lead--but it works). Lee's instructions provided with the Lee Loader say to consult the included parts list for a "Flaring tool" for use with cast bullets, but said tool isn't in the parts list. Maybe an old offering. The only thing I could think to add, short of buying new equipment, is that sometimes a quick chamfer of the case mouth has allowed me to slip a bullet in when I'm shaving lead, and a good flaring tool isn't on hand. Not a guaranteed method but it can work.


Has anyone else had good success with a Lee Loader in .30-06, or something similar?

I use a Lee Loader in 45-70 Govt. It is about the most relaxing thing. Plus, having the LL gives me the ability to leave my dies set for whatever my "normal" boolit is at the time, and quickly bang out any old cartridge if I just want to make five or ten plinkers to shoot out back. I don't find it particularly slow. Compared to my turret press, sure, but I have to imagine it competes with the time taken on a single stage, including swapping out dies.

[Green Frog]

If you are going to start loading from scratch, buying all components at current prices and buying a new Lee Loader, it will take a couple of decades of sighting in and hunting to break even.

OTOH, if you have LRPs and powder, you can probably find a used LL set in 30-06 at a reasonable price. Add a light wood or plastic mallet, a loading manual and a box of jacketed bullets or a mould for the desired bullet configuration, and you should be good to go. You will have spent about the current cost of two boxes of factory ammo and have the wherewithal to load about five boxes.

As an example of flexibility, I didn’t own a 30-06 or a suitable varmint gun when invited on a groundhog hunt some 45 years ago. I simply loaded up a box of ammo for my 30-40 Krag, using 110 gr half jacketed bullets and the groundhog never knew the difference (or if he did, he didn’t complain to me!)

Froggie

[gloob]

Regarding lead shavings off the bullet? I believe a Lee Loader only sizes and can't flare the mouth.

Most reloaders using a press will flare the case mouth with an expander die when loading up cast bullets.

You can't properly do this without a press, because if you hammer an expander plug into the case, it won't come back out without a fight. I suggest you use an inside chamfer tool to lightly taper the inside of your case mouths. Just a quick twist or two should help.

[Dieselhorses]

As most have mentioned, yes, use an "M" die of some sort. I just use the charging die to flare necks. Also for light and subsonic loads, large cases like the 06 don't favor an over abundance of space between the powder and bullet base. I use a pinch of Dacron (just enough to keep powder positioned close to flash hole). I've gotten great results in my .308's and 06's.

[Land Owner]

Rifle rounds, especially for hunting, are the work of Master Craftsmen, which you become through your experimentation, your rifle, and your practiced confidence to put the bullet where you intend it go. Every game animal is a trophy. There is no good reason not to anchor them in their own tracks EVERY time, if you do what is necessary to perform at that level.

My Lee Loader rounds were accurate and cheap. I made, tested, and shot 1,000's of them in 30-30 and 270 rifle calibers. A beam scale, plastic funnel, calipers, and chamfer/deburring tool were logical add-ons. It was slow and exacting.

Across those early years I pounded too hard and blew up a few while seating primers. It was a SURPRISE the first time. No harm no foul, eyes on the boat, pay more attention, and just as much a SURPRISE the 2nd.

I have good memories and had FUN using Lee Loaders! I recommend them for shooters thinking about reloading as a way to approach this hobby without going "all in". I recommend them - period.

[Larry Gibson]

This has been posted before to new users of Lee Loaders.

Excellent way to start reloading, I started that way myself in the early ‘60s.

A couple tips;

Get;
One of the larger MTM storage boxes, one with an internal tray, as it will hold all your reloading stuff.

A plastic headed mallet. These are available at most hardware/lumber yards.

Some 0000 steel wool to clean the outside of the neck. A small tuft wrapped around the neck and twisted does a quick job. May also be used with discretion to clean the outside of the cases.

A clean bore brush one size larger than the caliber you are loading for on a small pistol rod to clean the inside of the necks. Push it straight in and slightly twist pulling it out. Usually one pass cleans the carbon and debris out pretty well.

A small screw driver to clean the primer pocket but the Lee primer pocket cleaner is inexpensive and works well.

The Lee chamfer tool to chamfering the inside of the case mouth and the outside if necessary. A small knife blade will do also for the inside.

The Lee hand priming tool is almost a must unless you want the be-jesus scared out of you when a primer pops tapping them in.

A Lee powder funnel, works much better than pouring through the sizer.

A tapered punch or needle nosed pliers can be used to flair the case mouth if you are loading cast bullets in a cartridge that doesn’t come with a case mouth expander. Most of the pistol Lee Loaders come with one. Lee offers them for other calibers also. I got a couple 30 cal expanders from Lee.

A loading block to hold the cases that you’ve primed and put powder into.

Nice, or next to have;

Lee’s powder dippers.
A good powder scale.
A powder trickler.
At least one good reloading manual, Lyman’s is recommended.
A dial caliper.

All the above will fit into the MTM box.

Most of the above will also be required or useful when you advance to a single or progressive press.

[TNsailorman]

Nice job Larry. O use a wooden mallet myself (I have 3) that I bought back in the early 60's. I also have a Lee Loader for each caliber of rifle or pistol that I load. I put each complete kit in a small labeled by caliber tool box that I bought at Wallyworld. I also bought a bunch of punches for .25$ each at a thrift store and use them to flair the mouth of pistol/revolver cases. I don't load rifles with lead bullets anymore(exceptions being my .43 Spanish RB). I would recommend also very lightly lubing the ouside of rifle and pistol cases with some sizing wax(Imperial or Royal), makes it much easier to drive the case into the die. I really enjoy loading with the little lee's but they are definitely not for the spray and pray crowd. Just of .02 anyway, james

[Rich/WIS]

Ask yourself how much will I shoot, my experience (and a lot of others I'm sure) is that when you start reloading (and particularly casting) you'll start shooting more, sometimes a lot more. Not sure of your financial situation so take this for what it's worth, get a decent bench mounted single stage preferably compound leverage press, dies, scale (the Lee scoop kit will work til you do) and the other items needed. Once you get into this you will end up doing it anyway. Watch the S&S section for equipment, dies, etc, look at Titan (a sponsor) for new, check E-bay, local flea markets and garage sales. Add to that Lee molds and sizer kits and don't look back. I also started with the Lee whack a mole but it didn't take long to realize it wasn't going to cut it to shoot as much as I wanted to.

[kaiser]

A lot of good information and advice regarding this post. Reloading can be a hobby that surpasses hunting or shooting, since it can be done all year. The Lee "Whack-a-moles" got me into casting; and later "reduced" loading. After 5+ decades of loading, I can't say it has saved me much money, but I sure got to do a lot of shooting I'd missed out on by just settling for "factory".
I would add to the above advice/info - to put 1/2 grain of "Kapok" (pillow stuffing) over the powder charge if using shotgun or pistol power (eg. Red Dot, Unique, etc.), which will keep a smaller charge of power from shifting in the case.. This extra step will aid in the consistent burning of the charge of powder in a 30/06 case by keeping the charge over the primer. I've found even large pistol cases can vary in velocity when shooting a "string" of fire starting with the barrel from the up or down position. (A chronograph has recorded the velocity variations of "case position" to my satisfaction regarding this anomaly!)

[CastingFool]

I started reloading metallic cartridges with a Lee loader in 308 W. After a while, I was getting 1-3/8" groups at 100 yds, with a 130 gr spirepoints.

[Bigslug]

Dad and I started reloading .30-06 and .45ACP on Lee Loaders probably sometime around 1984-85. As a way to get your feet wet in the reloading pool for absolute minimal cost, it ain't bad - the LL, a stack of store-bought components and bullets, a mallet, and a set of calipers; done.

But at the point you're far enough down this rabbit hole to be casting bullets for a bottlenecked centerfire rifle round, you're already invested in not only the pot and molds, but also a lube sizer and dies to apply gas checks; will probably want more precise control over your powder than the single volumetric dipper provided with the LL (which means at the very least the full Lee dipper set, but more likely a scale and an adjustable measure). If you're shooting cast, you may also want to work in M-dies for a little more neck expansion, so the LL probably isn't ideal anyway.

Given that all of that stuff is coming home regardless, a basic single stage press and a set of dies is a minor investment when looked at next to the time you'll spend banging on the LL with a hammer. I once dusted off the old .45 LL after over 20 years of inactivity for nostalgia's sake. Got about 20 rounds in before saying "screw this!" It is reloading distilled down to the most basic level and I respect the hell out of that, but you really won't want to be kept down on the farm after you've seen Paris (Chargemasters, Dillon presses, etc...).

[Land Owner]

You can learn on the Lee Loader, upgrade when time, dollars, and Life allows, and sell the used, but tough as nails Lee Loader for what you paid for it, especially in times such as these when everything seems to be in poor supply.

[414gates]

30-06 cases in a Lee Loader is possible, but why ?

If cost is an issue, find yourself a second hand O-frame press. Lots of old cast iron ones to be had for cheap.

The most important reason to use a sizing die in a press for reloading fired rifle brass is to be able to correctly size the case for the headspace in the rifle chamber. You can't control the shoulder bump in a Lee Loader, and if there is excessive headspace with used brass, you will get case head separations.

For pistol brass, it doesn't matter.

For unlikely and uncommon situations, the Lee Loader is a great tool.

A press is better.

[Larry Gibson]

Regarding lead shavings off the bullet? I believe a Lee Loader only sizes and can't flare the mouth...........

Not quite correct. The sizer, like any sizer die FL or neck sizer, only sizes. However, all Lee Loaders for straight wall pistol cartridges came with another tool to bell the case mouth. Lee also sold one seperately for other cartridges including 30 cals. Back in the day when All I had to use was Lee Loaders I loaded thousands of 30 Carbine, 44 Magnum, 30-30 and 30-06 cartridges with cast bullets using one of those tools to flare the case mouths. That tool worked perfectly. I'll go take a picture to post.

[Maven]

Slight correction to what Larry posted: The old, black cardboard boxed Lee Loaders also had small flaring tool included. I purchased one for my .243Win. years ago and the flaring tool was included (even had a "cutout" in the foam packaging for it). Btw, mine also came with a red, plastic primer seater for .473" based cartridges. The [neck] sizing die loaded cartridges with very little run-out and high accuracy from my now sold Ruger #1

[Texas by God]

I jumped at the chance to get one of these in 30-06. I had one in 22-250 decades ago.
They will let your rifle be what it can be accuracy wise.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230323/5d87f48936fcee971e6d522f8121a897.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[TNsailorman]

Texas, I have one of those in 30-06 that I have been using since sometime in the 60's. I have always preferred military brass in most of my 06's and the necks seemed to always vary in thickness. So I bought one of those loaders and I inside neck ream all my military 06 brass with it but it is getting a little dull after several thousand rounds and I wish I knew someone who could properly sharpen the cutter for me. That tool loads really accurate ammo. james

[W.R.Buchanan]

Just do what Larry Gibson said. it saved me having to write all of that up. I ALWAYS recommend someone new to Reloading start with a Lee Classic Loader. It will teach you the reloading process in the most simple and efficient way there is, and the ammo you make will be as good or better than any other method there is.

Wilson makes "Hand Reloading Dies" that are mostly used by Bench Rest Shooters. These are really nicely made versions of the original Hand Reloading Dies that were made as the original way to reload Brass Cases. lee Loaders are simply Mass Produced versions of those dies adn they cost of fraction of what the Wilson dies cost.

Richard Lee simply figured out a way to make those dies in an economical way and run them with a Plastic Mallet so that everyone could do it. Original Hand Dies were made to be used with an Arbor Press or more properly a Drill Press used as an Arbor Press, Lee just decided that more people had a Plastic Mallet than an Arbor Press. I already had the Plastic Mallet from my Motorcycle Mechanicing days, so I used that too.

I got my first Lee Loader in 1970. $9.95! It was for my Sako .243. Still have it and all the cases and bullets and even the can of IMR 4350 Powder. Sold the gun. I bought the little Priming Tool the next week after my Lee Loader along with a little Powder Scale. I loaded all my ammo with Lee Loaders up until 1976 when I got my first Rock Chucker so I could reload my .44's faster. By that time I was also casting my own boolits with a Lee Mold and a little Iron Pot I used on my Kitchen Stove. Still have all this stuff. Loaned my .44 Lee Loader to a friend and it never came back, so don't loan your stuff out!!!

Here's the deal,,,, Lee Loaders go for around $35-40. You can be fully equipped for <$100! You can't go wrong because if you decide you don't want to Reload Ammo any more, you can always get your money back out by selling it here.

Randy

[lightload]

Just do what Larry Gibson said. it saved me having to write all of that up. I ALWAYS recommend someone new to Reloading start with a Lee Classic Loader. It will teach you the reloading process in the most simple and efficient way there is, and the ammo you make will be as good or better than any other method there is.

Wilson makes "Hand Reloading Dies" that are mostly used by Bench Rest Shooters. These are really nicely made versions of the original Hand Reloading Dies that were made as the original way to reload Brass Cases. lee Loaders are simply Mass Produced versions of those dies adn they cost of fraction of what the Wilson dies cost.

Richard Lee simply figured out a way to make those dies in an economical way and run them with a Plastic Mallet so that everyone could do it. Original Hand Dies were made to be used with an Arbor Press or more properly a Drill Press used as an Arbor Press, Lee just decided that more people had a Plastic Mallet than an Arbor Press. I already had the Plastic Mallet from my Motorcycle Mechanicing days, so I used that too.

I got my first Lee Loader in 1970. $9.95! It was for my Sako .243. Still have it and all the cases and bullets and even the can of IMR 4350 Powder. Sold the gun. I bought the little Priming Tool the next week after my Lee Loader along with a little Powder Scale. I loaded all my ammo with Lee Loaders up until 1976 when I got my first Rock Chucker so I could reload my .44's faster. By that time I was also casting my own boolits with a Lee Mold and a little Iron Pot I used on my Kitchen Stove. Still have all this stuff. Loaned my .44 Lee Loader to a friend and it never came back, so don't loan your stuff out!!!

Here's the deal,,,, Lee Loaders go for around $35-40. You can be fully equipped for <$100! You can't go wrong because if you decide you don't want to Reload Ammo any more, you can always get your money back out by selling it here.

Randy

Would not a C clamp's screw mechanism function to force a case in the LL sizer?

[wilecoyote]

Would not a C clamp's screw mechanism function to force a case in the LL sizer?

...stubborn cases as .44mag., when full resized, would require a piece of wood between c-clamp arm and case face.
Yes, it would.

[Larry Gibson]

Lubing the cases is a must with straight walled cases I even lubed the necks on bottle necked cases. The lube made the sizing easy.

[trapper9260]

Lubing the cases is a must with straight walled cases I even lubed the necks on bottle necked cases. The lube made the sizing easy.

I do the same when I load them all , for the same reason. No matter if the die they say you do not need to. It what I been doing for years and works for me.

[wilecoyote]

well, if it can be hard for me fully resize Imperial Wax lubed .44mag. ,
I can't even imagine what this can become if dry/unlubed in a L.L.