"Back in my day..." Looking for mold recommendations...

[jdgabbard]

So, I finally ran out of pills for my .380 loads. I don't shoot it a lot, maybe once a year to once every few years. But I always like to keep some components on hand. That said, I've historically used the 358242 in both it's 120gr and 90gr varieties, as well as some Lee 105gr SWCs that I got from a member probably 10-12 years back. So, I decided to break out the desired mold, the 90gr 358242 and cast up some for storage on the bench until I get around to loading some more 380 rounds.

Upon opening my mold box I remembered why I don't shoot the 380 more often.... The mold, while dropping excellent boolits that just fall from the mold, is a Frankenstein... It started life as a OLD Ideal 358242 120gr single cavity that someone milled down to 90gr, installed a mismatched sprue plate, and eventually sold it to me a long long time ago. Picture below... That said, it drops great boolits for my purpose. But I probably should upgrade to something that is more modern, and with a higher yield. So I'm looking for design/mold recommendations.

I hate Lee molds. Sure I have a few, and view them all (6-cav included) as garbage that I bought a long time ago because it was what I could afford at the time. Though, admittedly, I don't have any of the newer 2-cav molds, just the old style. But I've never been a fan of their 6-cav designs either. As a matter of fact, I hate all Aluminum molds - NOE designs included. I just don't like them. And prefer to use either Brass or Iron molds. Of the ones I have, I prefer MP over NOE, and Old Ideal or H&G over the former, with Lyman coming in last. And I'd be perfectly fine with a Lyman/Ideal 4-cav in 358242. Though, I'm thinking a more modern design with a RNFP or TC with a larger meplat might be a better choice. A HP mold could be cool, but the reality is that I don't see HPs being effective in 380, as I've yet to encounter a 380 load that offers both expansion and penetration deep enough. So I've always shot solids, and think that a load with a large meplat would be more practical than something with an HP. That said, options are nice... But whatever I choose I'd prefer it in the 85-100gr range.

Does anyone have any newer designs they really like? Anything they have found to be a true performer? Oh, and here is a picture of what casting sessions used to be like for the young guys... AKA, an hour or so at the bench casting with a single cavity mold.

309269

[Winger Ed.]

Nothing wrong with old stuff. Especially if it works.
I'd keep using the one you have.

Being a single cavity, you can spend more time in the shop and evading things on the 'Honey do' list.

I'm normally not in a big hurry to mass produce boolits.
If nothing else---- it keeps me out of those crooked BINGO parlors.:bigsmyl2:

[jdgabbard]

Nothing wrong with old stuff. Especially if it works.
I'd keep using the one you have.

Being a single cavity, you can spend more time in the shop and evading things on the 'Honey do' list.

I'm normally not in a big hurry to mass produce boolits.
If nothing else---- it keeps me out of those crooked BINGO parlors.:bigsmyl2:

Ed,

Sounds like you and I have different problems! I got rid of the Honey Do list a long time ago, and I don't gamble. But I do appreciate the old stuff. And like the mold. I just find myself strapped for time in this busy world. So I've been looking at making my time a little more efficient. Maybe when I retire I'll have a little more time, but for now the hours count if you know what I mean.

[Winger Ed.]

Well,,, In that case-
Any of the major players will have very good quality molds in designs
that were more or less perfected back when Moby Dick was a minnow.

I'd just get a RN in the weight you want,,, then go forth and sin no more.

[Jack Stanley]

You might try a WTB ad on the sale page , perhaps someone has an old Ideal four cavity looking for a new home .

Jack

[jdgabbard]

You might try a WTB ad on the sale page , perhaps someone has an old Ideal four cavity looking for a new home .

Jack

I doubt they would. I haven’t seen any 4-Cav 358242s in the past. Not to say they don’t exist, I just haven’t ever layed eyes on one. Which is one of the reasons I’m looking at alternative designs. What people tend to favor these days if you will…

[jdgabbard]

Well,,, In that case-
Any of the major players will have very good quality molds in designs
that were more or less perfected back when Moby Dick was a minnow.

I'd just get a RN in the weight you want,,, then go forth and sin no more.

Thanks, Ed.

[Finster101]

Nothing wrong with a Lee 358-105 that usually rains boolets, at least mine does. But, hey, you hate Lee molds so I guess that is out. Too bad. It's great in .380, 9mm, .38 and .357, but who would want that junk?

[Bigslug]

I'm using the NOE/Ranch Dog TL358-100-RF - - Accurate 35-098R is close enough as to make no difference - - Sold by Lee as the TL356-95RF. Accurate in brass would be where I'd go, given that NOE seems to be between runs - you get a little more control in that you can specify diameter with a given alloy mix anyway.

I've been going to tumble lube grooves on about all of my pistol options. Life's to short to lube-size bulk pistol blasting slugs.

Have confirmed it to run well in an old Colt 1908, a PPK/S, and FN-1910/22, and a Glock 42. A friend has proven it in the Ruger LCP - both for function and end-to-end on a possum. It is effectively the same profile as Winchester's Q4206 flat nosed FMJ, which has long been my preferred .380 carry round. You're right - the .380 has the energy to penetrate or expand, but not both. I wouldn't waste the time and effort on a hollow point design.

[Winger Ed.]

Any of the high end molds are big bucks now days.

When I started out, I didn't know about the fancy ones, so mine are RCBS and Lyman, and I really like them too.
For me, they were pretty pricey in their day,
But when I looked at them as a life time investment, it helped cushion the sticker shock of their expense.

If I was sort of short on time, I'd invest in one of the high end 3-4 cavity ones.
Even if you're pretty young, it should out last you by at least a hundred years.

[jdgabbard]

Nothing wrong with a Lee 358-105 that usually rains boolets, at least mine does. But, hey, you hate Lee molds so I guess that is out. Too bad. It's great in .380, 9mm, .38 and .357, but who would want that junk?

It has nothing to do with not liking the design. If you go back to my original post I mention I had shot a bunch of them cast by another member. I just find Lee’s molds themselves to be junk. If you love them, that’s fine by me. We just have different ideas as to what we consider quality tools. To each their own. They’re just not for me.

[jdgabbard]

I'm using the NOE/Ranch Dog TL358-100-RF - - Accurate 35-098R is close enough as to make no difference - - Sold by Lee as the TL356-95RF. Accurate in brass would be where I'd go, given that NOE seems to be between runs - you get a little more control in that you can specify diameter with a given alloy mix anyway.

I've been going to tumble lube grooves on about all of my pistol options. Life's to short to lube-size bulk pistol blasting slugs.

Have confirmed it to run well in an old Colt 1908, a PPK/S, and FN-1910/22, and a Glock 42. A friend has proven it in the Ruger LCP - both for function and end-to-end on a possum. It is effectively the same profile as Winchester's Q4206 flat nosed FMJ, which has long been my preferred .380 carry round. You're right - the .380 has the energy to penetrate or expand, but not both. I wouldn't waste the time and effort on a hollow point design.

I’ve had a few RD designs over the years, and they have all shot well. I may have to take a look at that one. But I will say, I do prefer to have a nice old fashioned lube groove. Even though I’ve moved on to PCing boolits, I hate to think of not being able to use them should the electricity go out.

Also, I’m glad to see I’m not the only one that thinks so as far as the performance of the 380! It’s not a bad round, and is adequate for defense. But you have to understand its limitations and work around them.

Thanks for the advice!

[jdgabbard]

Any of the high end molds are big bucks now days.

When I started out, I didn't know about the fancy ones, so mine are RCBS and Lyman, and I really like them too.
For me, they were pretty pricey in their day,
But when I looked at them as a life time investment, it helped cushion the sticker shock of their expense.

If I was sort of short on time, I'd invest in one of the high end 3-4 cavity ones.
Even if you're pretty young, it should out last you by at least a hundred years.

You’re not alone. Most of mine are Ideal/Lyman with some Lees from when I was less than poor, and some MP, NOE, and Mountain Molds from when I got to the point I could afford to buy something other than packages of ramen at the grocery store. Most of those Ideal and Lyman’s are older than my father. So I guess that says something to the quality of the older stuff. As for the new, I see the brass mold holding up quite well. But I don’t, and probably won’t, trust aluminum to do the same.

[Winger Ed.]

won’t, trust aluminum to do the same.

I've had a couple of Lee molds, and have one now in 9mm to make a few boolits for my 77 year old neighbor.
It's easier to get him out to the range with me if I give him a big butter tub of loaded 9mm.
It's sort of like Homer Simpson going into a trance and following the smell of a Crusty burger......

I know Alum. molds are great, but I just don't like Alum. anything that gets hot when you use it.

[Bigslug]

Depending on how you want to roll, the Accurate 35-098S is the same Ranch Dog profile with a standard lube groove, and the 35-095R turns it into a slick-side, bevel base for PC. If like you say, you have concerns about how to keep playing if your PC apparatus fails, the lube requirements of a .380 will be so minimal that you could conventionally lube-size the tumble lube bullet and be just fine, and you could PC it with no penalty. I think the TL version would be your "do all" for the caliber.

[jdgabbard]

Depending on how you want to roll, the Accurate 35-098S is the same Ranch Dog profile with a standard lube groove, and the 35-095R turns it into a slick-side, bevel base for PC. If like you say, you have concerns about how to keep playing if your PC apparatus fails, the lube requirements of a .380 will be so minimal that you could conventionally lube-size the tumble lube bullet and be just fine, and you could PC it with no penalty. I think the TL version would be your "do all" for the caliber.

Not so much a concern of my PC method failing. I do electrical engineering, and could rig up something in an afternoon. My larger concern is making sure to have redundancy. Ie, if PC powder dries up for some reason, national disaster causing power outages, etc. I can mix up a decent lube with candles and some petrolium jelly. But I can't just head down to the hardware store and pick up some Alox. So the idea is having a fall back method that is reliable, not having something that works with what is currently "available".

I'll look at the accurate mold. The one with the traditional lube grove may be exactly what I'm looking for.

[Mr Peabody]

Be sure to look at Arsenal molds website, he got some good designs

[fredj338]

Go to Accurate & browse his catalogue. If you dont find exactly what you want, he can modify one of his current designs for you.