Cold weather lube. . .what is the latest and greatest?!?!?!?

[OFFSHORE]

I have been playing around with various lubes and yet to find one that will perform well out of a southern hunting season cold barrel. I'm not talking in the negative digits, but a lube that works best in the 20's to the 90's of the southeastern United States where I mainly hunt. I'm not a target shooter although I do demand extreme accuracy from my firearms, and I predominantly hunt with .357, .44 and .45 caliber rounds. I currently use a 50/50 mix of Ben's Red and LSS 2500+ lubes and they work great above 40 degrees, but below that boolits don't come together on paper until the chamber warms up. I want something that is a first shot/cold barrel accurate lube. Does it exists???

I have read over the various "Stickies" posted in the Lube Forum and most threads are from years back and not updated, but has anyone come up with a lube (whether home brew or store bought) that fits the bill? PLEASE, point me in the right direction, let me know what has worked best for you for a year round boolit lube. Thank you and Happy Holidays.

[huntinlever]

I have been playing around with various lubes and yet to find one that will perform well out of a southern hunting season cold barrel. I'm not talking in the negative digits, but a lube that works best in the 20's to the 90's of the southeastern United States where I mainly hunt. I'm not a target shooter although I do demand extreme accuracy from my firearms, and I predominantly hunt with .357, .44 and .45 caliber rounds. I currently use a 50/50 mix of Ben's Red and LSS 2500+ lubes and they work great above 40 degrees, but below that boolits don't come together on paper until the chamber warms up. I want something that is a first shot/cold barrel accurate lube. Does it exists???

I have read over the various "Stickies" posted in the Lube Forum and most threads are from years back and not updated, but has anyone come up with a lube (whether home brew or store bought) that fits the bill? PLEASE, point me in the right direction, let me know what has worked best for you for a year round boolit lube. Thank you and Happy Holidays.

Huge fan of MML - Mike's Magic Lube - specifically for cold weather lube from a cold barrel. Sorry, don't have "the" link as I've seen a couple variations, but ingredients I use are:

3 LB Beeswax
1 LB Canning Paraffin
1 -14oz tube of cheap caramel colored lithium auto grease
1/2 LB Microwax 430 from blended waxes .com

Most use a double boiler to melt the waxes (be careful on the beeswax) then blend in the lithium grease. I know others will know this one a lot better than myself, but it's my hunting lube (brutally cold, sometimes, northwoods).

[Dusty Bannister]

Are you using a lubed patch to polish the throats and barrel to condition it before you go shooting, or is it a cold and clean barrel?

[winelover]

Having cold weather flyers (<35*) with my 338W Magnum. Switched from Carnauba Red to Lars 2500+ lube. Tried different powders, as well as, brass headstamps. Even newer/one time fired brass.

My Marlin 1894 (44 Magnum) doesn't suffer from the malady, with either lube.

I don't clean my barrels, only the actions.

I have a backyard range. I leave my rifle and ammo outside, while I hang a cardboard target backing with four separate targets. I take one shot at each target every twenty minutes. Compare POI, only after all four shots are taken. Record data and repeat, next day, weather permitting.

Suspect the powders aren't filling the case over 50%-60% capacity. However, I'd rather not use Dacron. I always point the rifle upwards, before firing, making sure the powder is against the primer.

Winelover

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

I'd try Satan's Lube, see info on this thread.

https://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?232371-Hey-357-maximum-lubes

BUT, in General, boolit lubes with "slickener" ingredients will throw more fliers (cold barrel or not), than lubes with no "slickeners."
Also, bore condition, as winelover hints at, is a major reason for cold barrel fliers.
Good Luck.

[Winger Ed.]

I'd think the lube for one or two shots would matter less than what is or isn't inside that cold barrel.

I've noticed that the first shot 'flyer' is worse when it's the first one out of a nice clean barrel.
Once there is some fouling/residue, the shots seem to settle down to nice groups.
This holds true for jacketed too, that don't have any lube at all.

In the scheme of things, our winters down here aren't really that cold.
I'd try some range time with a cold barrel that has had one or two shots worth of fouling left in it
before going all scientific about splitting hairs for lube.

[OFFSHORE]

My barrels are always fouled. I only clean them after 200 rounds have been fired or accuracy is diminishing and then after hunting season is over, but I will shoot 3 rounds to keep the bore fouled. In 30 degree temps using my 44 MAG I can have as much as a 4 vertical rise in groups using my current lube. But in warm conditions the handgun is very accurate and consistent. During cold sits in a treestand I would keep a few cartridges in my pocket and just slide one in the chamber when I had deer approaching. . .well, a couple weeks ago I got caught by a nice buck when he heard my action close from me loading it (and I was being ever so quiet) and that was a terrible lesson to learn. That is what has me in search of a better lube for year round shooting/hunting. So, I hope I can find this with you all's help.

[Dusty Bannister]

Since temperature seems to be a factor, is it lube, or maybe the primer selection or the powder choice and is hard to burn efficiently? A chrono reading might be helpful to you here if one is available. Also a cold gun oil might be slowing down the hammer fall. When was the last time the revolver was completely serviced?

[OFFSHORE]

Powders and primers I use for my handguns, both T/C Contenders and Ruger/S&W revolvers are; Alliant 2400 and VV N110, CCI Mag and Winchester LP. With J-word bullets I have no issues with temperatures and accuracy with these loads, thats what leads me to believe it is possibly my lube. I totally enjoy casting and loading my own bullets, and it is a great feeling when taking game with something you have made. . .I don't want to be forced to use jacket bullets for cooler months and cast for warmer. My guns are clean and I take very good care of them, so I don't think that would be the issue.

[gwpercle]

For Southern Cold Weather Lube , Louisiana tested , I have always had success with an old lube known as Lithi-Bee ... it is a soft lube in summer for sure . But a nice cold weather lube .
1 part Lithium Grease (such as Lucas Red-N-Tacky) blended with 3 parts clean Beeswax .
Use weight as your measure , 1 pound Lithium Grease to 3 pounds Beeswax .

I have used it for all handgun and cast boolit 30-30 Loads and have never leaded a barrel with it . This recipe might be just what you're looking for .
Gary

Just remembered something ... If you can't take a fouling shot(s) with your rifle before the hunt , run a Lithi-Bee lubed patch to condition the bore ... it's better than taking that first shot from a squeaky clean cold barrel .
Gary

[Dusty Bannister]

Speaking only about VV N-110, I checked their web site and they had no cast bullet listing for this powder. What is the bullet weight, powder weight and source of your data? For 44 mag.

https://www.vihtavuori.com/reloading-data/handgun-reloading/?cartridge=47

[greenjoytj]

I have been playing around with various lubes and yet to find one that will perform well out of a southern hunting season cold barrel.
I currently use a 50/50 mix of Ben's Red and LSS 2500+ lubes and they work great above 40 degrees, but below that boolits don't come together on paper until the chamber warms up.
I want something that is a first shot/cold barrel accurate lube. Does it exists???


If your current lube won’t group shots till the chamber and barrel warms up then your lube is too hard for the ambient temperature.
I have read many post where NLGI #2 grease (Lucas Red-N- Tacky etc.) is use as a component in bullet lube.
According to NLGI -40*F&C is the low end operating temperature of NLGI #2 GC-LB grease, the upper hot temperature rating is over 300*F

I doubt such a high temperature rating is required even for use in the summer temperatures.
Perhaps a softer consistency grease (NLGI 1 grade) should be substituted for the #2, or a grease made from synthetic oils with a low temperature rating.

All the bullet lubes I have read about use beeswax as a very large percentage of their overall make up.
I suspect it is the beeswax component or the high % of beeswax that ruins the bullet lube low temperature shot grouping ability.
Perhaps a straight grease at a much denser grade like #4 (I believe grease grades go up to NLGI #6) might work as a bullet lube across all seasons in all latitudes.

[OFFSHORE]

For Southern Cold Weather Lube , Louisiana tested , I have always had success with an old lube known as Lithi-Bee ... it is a soft lube in summer for sure . But a nice cold weather lube .
1 part Lithium Grease (such as Lucas Red-N-Tacky) blended with 3 parts clean Beeswax .
Use weight as your measure , 1 pound Lithium Grease to 3 pounds Beeswax .

I have used it for all handgun and cast boolit 30-30 Loads and have never leaded a barrel with it . This recipe might be just what you're looking for .
Gary

Just remembered something ... If you can't take a fouling shot(s) with your rifle before the hunt , run a Lithi-Bee lubed patch to condition the bore ... it's better than taking that first shot from a squeaky clean cold barrel .
Gary

Gary,
Thank you very much for the advice and recipe. How does this stack-up to the 666+1 or SL-71B lubes??? These are others that are supposed to be "cold weather" shooters!?!?!?

[OFFSHORE]

If your current lube won’t group shots till the chamber and barrel warms up then your lube is too hard for the ambient temperature.
I have read many post where NLGI #2 grease (Lucas Red-N- Tacky etc.) is use as a component in bullet lube.
According to NLGI -40*F&C is the low end operating temperature of NLGI #2 GC-LB grease, the upper hot temperature rating is over 300*F

I doubt such a high temperature rating is required even for use in the summer temperatures.
Perhaps a softer consistency grease (NLGI 1 grade) should be substituted for the #2, or a grease made from synthetic oils with a low temperature rating.

All the bullet lubes I have read about use beeswax as a very large percentage of their overall make up.
I suspect it is the beeswax component or the high % of beeswax that ruins the bullet lube low temperature shot grouping ability.
Perhaps a straight grease at a much denser grade like #4 (I believe grease grades go up to NLGI #6) might work as a bullet lube across all seasons in all latitudes.

Do you have a lube that has worked well for you in the Canada Extreme Colds???

[dverna]

My barrels are always fouled. I only clean them after 200 rounds have been fired or accuracy is diminishing and then after hunting season is over, but I will shoot 3 rounds to keep the bore fouled. In 30 degree temps using my 44 MAG I can have as much as a 4 vertical rise in groups using my current lube. But in warm conditions the handgun is very accurate and consistent. During cold sits in a treestand I would keep a few cartridges in my pocket and just slide one in the chamber when I had deer approaching. . .well, a couple weeks ago I got caught by a nice buck when he heard my action close from me loading it (and I was being ever so quiet) and that was a terrible lesson to learn. That is what has me in search of a better lube for year round shooting/hunting. So, I hope I can find this with you all's help.

That would a tough lesson for sure.

There was a guy who used to post here who did a lot of testing at really cold temperatures. He did the best job I have ever seen in "the quest". I wish I could find the work he did, but I do not use cast for hunting so never saved his threads.

IIRC most of the threads you will find from the "Three Amigos" concerned first shot out of cold barrel POI and good performance over a wide range of temperatures. I do not believe they tested in cold temperatures.
At least what I consider cold....but more inline with what you consider cold.

It was the work of the "Three Amigos", as well as the first gentleman mentioned, that put the nail in coffin wrt to using cast bullets to hunt. Living in northern MI, I had not only first shot out of a cold barrel to deal with but I could be hunting in temperatures for -10 to 70 degrees.

One of the Three Amigos was gearnasher if you want to search. My search abilities are pathetic or I would help you out.

[M-Tecs]

My barrels are always fouled. I only clean them after 200 rounds have been fired or accuracy is diminishing and then after hunting season is over, but I will shoot 3 rounds to keep the bore fouled. In 30 degree temps using my 44 MAG I can have as much as a 4 vertical rise in groups using my current lube. But in warm conditions the handgun is very accurate and consistent. During cold sits in a treestand I would keep a few cartridges in my pocket and just slide one in the chamber when I had deer approaching. . .well, a couple weeks ago I got caught by a nice buck when he heard my action close from me loading it (and I was being ever so quiet) and that was a terrible lesson to learn. That is what has me in search of a better lube for year round shooting/hunting. So, I hope I can find this with you all's help.

I am not sure I would blame all the POI shift on the lube? My guess is the 4 is 4 inches? At what distance? I own several firearms that the clean bore shot will be a couple of minutes off but the 30/30's, 35 Rem's and 45/70's that I own don't shift POI anywhere never what you are experiencing even at temps as low as minus 10.

I have had noticeable changes in accuracy when the lube didn't like the temp but POI has been consistent for me.

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

That would a tough lesson for sure.

There was a guy who used to post here who did a lot of testing at really cold temperatures. He did the best job I have ever seen in "the quest". I wish I could find the work he did, but I do not use cast for hunting so never saved his threads.

IIRC most of the threads you will find from the "Three Amigos" concerned first shot out of cold barrel POI and good performance over a wide range of temperatures. I do not believe they tested in cold temperatures.
At least what I consider cold....but more inline with what you consider cold.

It was the work of the "Three Amigos", as well as the first gentleman mentioned, that put the nail in coffin wrt to using cast bullets to hunt. Living in northern MI, I had not only first shot out of a cold barrel to deal with but I could be hunting in temperatures for -10 to 70 degrees.

One of the Three Amigos was gearnasher if you want to search. My search abilities are pathetic or I would help you out.

Eutectic tested some lubes in below zero temps at his place in the Rocky's.
a couple others were
Bullshop (at that time, he tested in AK)
and
357maximum (who lives in northern MI, he is the one that came up with 666+1)

[OFFSHORE]

That would a tough lesson for sure.

There was a guy who used to post here who did a lot of testing at really cold temperatures. He did the best job I have ever seen in "the quest". I wish I could find the work he did, but I do not use cast for hunting so never saved his threads.

IIRC most of the threads you will find from the "Three Amigos" concerned first shot out of cold barrel POI and good performance over a wide range of temperatures. I do not believe they tested in cold temperatures.
At least what I consider cold....but more inline with what you consider cold.

It was the work of the "Three Amigos", as well as the first gentleman mentioned, that put the nail in coffin wrt to using cast bullets to hunt. Living in northern MI, I had not only first shot out of a cold barrel to deal with but I could be hunting in temperatures for -10 to 70 degrees.

One of the Three Amigos was gearnasher if you want to search. My search abilities are pathetic or I would help you out.

Don,
I have read a ton of posts/threads concerning boolit lube, and I don't know this for sure, but I believe the "Three Amigos" you speak of are;
Gearnasher, 357Maximum, and Runfiverun. Not sure why these guys were banned from the forum, but I did read a lot of their posts and they were a knowledgeable group - in my opinion. Thank you, sir.

[OFFSHORE]

Eutectic tested some lubes in below zero temps at his place in the Rocky's.
a couple others were
Bullshop (at that time, he tested in AK)
and
357maximum (who lives in northern MI, he is the one that came up with 666+1)

JonB,
357maximum's 666+1 lube is on my radar (I tried it a few years ago - I think?) and another called SL-71B which I cannot find the recipe for.

[dverna]

Jon B has a better memory that I. It was Eutectic that did the cold testing. Very interesting work IIRC.

[BABore]

357Maximum was the originator of MML, MML+soap, and Satan's lube or 666. MML was the first in his quest to solve the first shot flyer issue. It could be called a more modern Lithi-Bee lube. MML+soap came next and its goal was to up the velocity game which it did. Finally came Satan's lube which was made from cheap, easy-to-get ingredients and have similar results to the MML's. All have been used from the teens to 90+ degrees with great success. High velocity can be obtained with all three.

[Chena]

I am about to load 100 test rounds of .44 Special using my first batch of Simple Lube. Can anyone chime in on how SL performs in temps down to about 0 degrees?

[M-Tecs]

Some light reading here

https://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?265177-Cold-weather-lube-additives

https://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?263908-Cold-weather-lube

https://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?138140-Cold-weather-lube

This one has 3055 posts for your reading pleasure.

https://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?148746-quot-Extreme-quot-boolit-lube-The-Quest

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

I am about to load 100 test rounds of .44 Special using my first batch of Simple Lube. Can anyone chime in on how SL performs in temps down to about 0 degrees?

I've read the SL thread. R5R says it's good down to 20ºF. I'd suggest to add more Dextron to make it work in colder weather.

[Chena]

Jon - many thanks. Guess I should read the entire sticky!

[justindad]

I remember reading that adding a small amount of transmission fluid to the lube helped first shots in the cold. How much - idk. Maybe a 1% additive?

[megasupermagnum]

I believe you are looking in the wrong area for your problem. I did some testing with lubes in cold, but we are talking about cold. Like -10F cold. I've never seen any problem above freezing. Even at the worst, I've never seen a POI shift of 4" at what I can only assume is 50 yards from lube alone. I can't recall ever seeing it at 100 yards either. As M-Tecs says, lube doesn't really effect the first shot.

May I suggest that you should be looking at something else, especially ignition related. I would try different primers first. I've definitely seen some big shifts from inconsistent ignition and powder position.

[BD]

Felix lube has been very temperature consistent for me for over 20 years now in a wide variety of loadings. -10 to low 90s in northern Maine. It’s a bit of a pain to make. But it works.

[Gobeyond]

I use the spg, nra clone. Seems like the bullet doesn’t have enough for for the whole cold barrel. A pre shot coating sounds like the way to go. Use temperature insensitive primers and a hot federal primer. Wait until it gets good and cold then light it up.
It’s snowing right now.

[nekshot]

I use Felix lube mixture. One really cold winter I did a lot of testing with my cast hunting loads. Felix moved about 1 inch difference at 100 yards. Was happy with that. Bens red really went berserk in temps below freezing.

[tja6435]

Speaking only about VV N-110, I checked their web site and they had no cast bullet listing for this powder. What is the bullet weight, powder weight and source of your data? For 44 mag.

https://www.vihtavuori.com/reloading-data/handgun-reloading/?cartridge=47


Lyman #49 has load data for several cast boolits using N-110 in 44 magnum

[RonL]

It may not be the lube that is affecting the first shot cold barrel. It may be the barrel. The cold may be affecting the barrel harmonics. I have found less variation when shooting a bull barrel gun. The cold may also be affecting the tolerances of the barrel. Even shooting jacketed in extreme cold affects the accuracy.

[greenjoytj]

I have no doubt the some bullet lubes perform best within a certain temperature range.
We all want lube that works perfectly across the full range of ambient temperatures we might be shooting in, with both smokeless and black powder.
I don’t believe a bullet lube that meets the all temperature requirements exists, if it does, the ingredients are not available in affordable packaging quantities (think drum size for $K’s). But keep searching if you’re enjoying the quest.

I think doing a ladder test and choose a powder charge weight that keeps your firearms bullet POI very close to the POI you get at some grains charge weight both above (simulates hot weather shooting) and below (simulates cold weather shooting). Doing this just might simulate a widening of the useable temperature range of your bullet lube.

I think the ambient temperature plays havoc with pressure within the barrel particularly in the cold or very cold.
Powder gas just can’t reach summer temperatures within the cold barrel as the cold steel draws away the heat in the gas. This reduced gas pressure is going to reduce MV and lower your POI. Also the volume of denser cold air (at sea level pressure) between your muzzle and the target will more quickly reduce the bullet velocity as it moves through this denser air on it way to the target.

[winelover]

Greenjoy: Explain why my first shots, out of cold barrels in cold temps, are always printing high?

Winelover

[greenjoytj]

Were you able chronograph the cold barrel high impact shots? If those shots exited the muzzle a little slower, then the increased time the bullet stayed in barrel allowed time for the barrel to rise or whip up higher. Therefore changing the POI on the target. The barrel harmonics could be changing slightly by the cold temperatures.
Cold cast bullet lube could slow the bullet velocity particularly on a delayed second shot where the bullet lube now mixed with the previous shots powder fouling had time to stiffen thereby slowing the second shot as the bullet plows through the cold stiffen fouling. A cold barrel plus cold fouling all drawing heat from the powder gas resulting in lower MV which causes the bullet to be in the barrel longer allowing barrel harmonics to play havoc with the POI at the target.

[MostlyLeverGuns]

Testing in the cold for that cold first shot is tough. As soon as the first shot is fired, the barrel starts to warm and the 'cold' barrel condition is lost. I have left rifles and ammunition in the cold (-15*F) but after the first shot, the barrel is warm. Shots must be spaced 15-30 minutes apart to keep the barrel truly cold. I would not start with a clean barrel for testing bullet lubes in the cold. Fire the rifle with the lube being tested at least 10 rounds, then chill it down. It only takes two or three shots to heat barrel enough that testing for 'cold' effect is lost, even if cartridges are kept cold. At 100 yards with Bullshop's cold lube, 'NRA' 50-50, some other lubes in the .308, .358 and .32 Special, I have found less than 2" difference from first shot to group at 0 to -10*F, same with most powders, Reloder 15, Varget, even 2520 show maybe 25-50 fps from first to second shot, then settle in to 'normal', velocities. No issues above 20-25*F. Keeping the barrel truly cold is the hard part of ' COLD' testing. Loads tested had already been established using ladder/incremental testing at 200 yards.

[GregLaROCHE]

How does paper patching preform in cold weather ? Could that be an option ?

[huntinlever]

357Maximum was the originator of MML, MML+soap, and Satan's lube or 666. MML was the first in his quest to solve the first shot flyer issue. It could be called a more modern Lithi-Bee lube. MML+soap came next and its goal was to up the velocity game which it did. Finally came Satan's lube which was made from cheap, easy-to-get ingredients and have similar results to the MML's. All have been used from the teens to 90+ degrees with great success. High velocity can be obtained with all three.

Sorry for the OT and dated resurrection but I've just been thinking of this...I cast a ton of bullets with MML thinking I'd burn through them in these cooler months but especially now with a new .338 WM I won't be exhausting these before warmth then heat sets in. I can toss a few hundred back into the pot but was wondering how MML holds up in the hotter months. I dealt with it years ago but can't recall what I did, maybe Ben's red? MML should be able to handle into the low 90's? Thanks, if you happen to see this.

[winelover]

Were you able chronograph the cold barrel high impact shots? If those shots exited the muzzle a little slower, then the increased time the bullet stayed in barrel allowed time for the barrel to rise or whip up higher. Therefore changing the POI on the target. The barrel harmonics could be changing slightly by the cold temperatures.
Cold cast bullet lube could slow the bullet velocity particularly on a delayed second shot where the bullet lube now mixed with the previous shots powder fouling had time to stiffen thereby slowing the second shot as the bullet plows through the cold stiffen fouling. A cold barrel plus cold fouling all drawing heat from the powder gas resulting in lower MV which causes the bullet to be in the barrel longer allowing barrel harmonics to play havoc with the POI at the target.

I have my own backyard range. I've been testing my 338W Magnum, in cold weather that I might encounter, while hunting on my land. First thing I do is put the rifle and ammo outside to acclimatize to the cold. In the meantime, I walk a cardboard backed bank of four clean targets out to the berm. After a half hour, I take one shot at the first target. Rifle and ammo, stay outside, while I go inside. After minimum of twenty minutes, second shot is fired at the second target. Wait another twenty minutes and repeat for the third target, then again for the fourth. By the time, I shoot the fourth target, the cold weather window is just about expired.

I'm using a four power scope, so I can't see the bullet holes, from the firing line.............feel it takes the shooters anticipation factor out of the equation by not knowing the POI. That's why I use four targets. After I'm finished for the morning, I retrieve the targets an mark the bullet holes with a highlighter and record the temperature conditions for that day. Next testing day, I use the same four targets, only changing the color of the highlighter. Loaded ammo is the same lot of cast bullets, loaded on the same day. Do this for four or five days, yielding four to five holes in each target.

I've been at this for the last couple of Winters. I only change one variable at a time. Whether it be a change of powder, brass (nickel vs yellow) or primers and bullet lube.

I've tested three different powders. SR 4759, IMR 4198 & IMR 4895 with a Tom's clone of 200 grain Lyman's (338320) FP.

I tested Lar's Carnuba Red versus Lar's 2500+ lube.

I've tested RP nickel versus RP yellow brass.

I've tested CCI LR Primers versus CCI LR Magnum primers.

What I found and settled on, is that the switch to Magnum primers, consistently reduced the amount of first shot cold weather flyers but only with IMR 4198, using 2500+ lube. Conversely, IMR 4198 fills the large magnum case, the least, of all powders tested. BTW, I don't/won't use fillers.

I do have a Lab Radar but never bothered to use if for the cold weather testing. I actually doing my testing right out of my my hunting blind, which doesn't even have enough room to set up my spotting scope.

Winelover

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

Sorry for the OT and dated resurrection but I've just been thinking of this...I cast a ton of bullets with MML thinking I'd burn through them in these cooler months but especially now with a new .338 WM I won't be exhausting these before warmth then heat sets in. I can toss a few hundred back into the pot but was wondering how MML holds up in the hotter months. I dealt with it years ago but can't recall what I did, maybe Ben's red? MML should be able to handle into the low 90's? Thanks, if you happen to see this.

MML will be fine in the low 90s, A problem 'might' come in on a Sunny 90º day when you have your gun and ammo in the trunk of a car for a few hours, and the temp inside the trunk climbs to 140 to 160.

[gumbo333]

I don’t cast but shoot both HyTec , PC’d and lubed cast along with a few J bullets. I do use BLL on the lubed. For me I have found that the first shot out of a cleaned barrel will always be outside the normal grouping, even if the barrel was cleaned months ago and never shot, no matter the temp. I always shoot a fouling shot before I take a rifle hunting or paper punching practice. It’s been that way for me a long long time.

[huntinlever]

MML will be fine in the low 90s, A problem 'might' come in on a Sunny 90º day when you have your gun and ammo in the trunk of a car for a few hours, and the temp inside the trunk climbs to 140 to 160.

Great, thanks Jon.

[BentSprings]

How does paper patching preform in cold weather ? Could that be an option ?

Paperpatch, jacketed, snot lubed, and powdercoat does not matter other than in the extent of the issue. The barrel is actually smaller for that first shot so you cannot beat the really simple physics of the issue. The colder it gets the more noticeable it is. On deer sized game it means nothing. Might mean something if sniping sparrows in February though.