Thoughts on Installing Chain Link Fence

[justindad]

I’m close to pulling the trigger on $6k worth of chain link fence materials, which I will install myself. I’ve never done this before, but not concerned about failure. Has anybody done this before? Are all brands the same?

[BLAHUT]

Some are made of heavier material. It is a two-man job. Not hard to do, just follow instructions and measurements. Just finished a fence job before it got too cold, fenced in about 1/2 acer. 3 gates. When you are handling the fabric have bandages on hand, even with leather gloves. If using a power auger, beware it will kick back with tree roots or rocks. I put a 1 x 4 down under fence, so do not need to trim grass and weeds.

[NyFirefighter357]

How much fence, for what use? Height? A fence stretcher, a winch/come along & a good set of fence pliers will all be good tools to have. Are you setting in cement? Like everything else, watch some video's. Search DIY chain link fence

[rockshooter]

set fence to run 1" above grass level so weed-whacker line will fit under it.
Loren

[Winger Ed.]

I’ve never done this before,

When I take on a 'never done before' project--
I look at the "professionals" who do it for their day job.
Most of which have a strong back, a weak mind, and are probably one jump ahead of the squad car....

Then I ask myself, "How hard can it be".

[Land Owner]

There is 11.5 gage Residential Grade galvanized fence wire and thicker.

These considerations, not to be construed as complete, will get you close to the pin:

1.) Find the property markers, assuming it is property you are fencing.

2.) Align fence slightly off of the property line - toward YOUR SIDE - to preclude a dispute later.

3.) Set temporary 4"x4"x8' PT wood posts at the ends of a straight section and run a string line.

4.) Wrap the string around the wood posts - on YOUR SIDE - about 3 feet above grade and pull tight.

5.) Decide to:
5.a.) follow the contour of the ground or
5.b.) expect a space beneath some portions of the fence.

6.) Dig post holes slightly off-center - YOUR SIDE - beneath the string line.

7.) Set fence poles deeper than the bottom of the concrete - for drainage.

8.) Set plumb 1 5/8" diameter line posts in concrete and nearly touching YOUR SIDE of the string line.
8.a.) LINE POST Hole = 8" dia. less 1.625" dia. x 1'-0" deep (0.30 cf concrete)
8.b.) Post spacing is up to you but 10' apart is about 1/2 the width of a 2-piece x 21' (total) top rail.

9.) Set plumb 2 3/8" diameter corner or gate posts in concrete barely touching YOUR SIDE of the string line.
9.a.) GATE/CORNER POST Hole = 9.5" dia. less 2.375" dia. x 1' - 6" deep (0.69 cf concrete)

10.) Allow concrete to harden from 24 to 48 hours.

11.) Construct stretcher (diagonally braced) panels.

12.) Construct 1 3/8" top rail.

13.) Secure and stretch Galvanized Tension Wire first, about 4" above the bottom (with top rail fence).

14.) Anchor and pull fence fabric tight.

[762 shooter]

Not rocket science, but there is a right way to do it.

Take your time and read post #6.

762

[buckwheatpaul]

I've run miles of chain link fence over the years. Land Owner pretty much nailed it....however no one mentioned how to weave chain link when you have to merge unto a new roll. I believe that I still have some simple instructions and will look for them if you like.

[William Yanda]

Invest another $20, or make the equivalent of a chain link fence stretcher, a short length of pipe with 3 hooks on one side and a loop centered on the other. It will save you a lot of frustration and improve your vocabulary.
I came by the experience to know this not as a fence installer, but a playground installer. We sometimes had to uninstall fence for access, then reinstall it. We sometimes twisted one wire out, to make a break, then wove the fence back together. I am sure it would be equally handy for the original installation.

[MrWolf]

I put up a 6' chain link with two double gates and two single gates by myself. I used the stretcher plus the winch on my utv which also doubled as my fence carrier at the time (used a deer lifter). The weaving as Paul mentioned is not hard once you figure out which way they are supposed to go. I'm in the mountains here so the auger only goes so far and you are using the long breaker bars and such. Used the cement that you just add water to. Make sure the poles are level and try following the contour of the land. Takes time (especially with a bad back) but it is doable. Two people would make it a lot easier. Make sure you have all the hardware before hand. Lay it out if you have to and have some extras. Good luck.
Ron

[Misery-Whip]

Out west we go 2 feet down, ive heard back east they go down 4 feet down or the posts freeze out of the ground. And make the hole bigger on the bottom of the hole. But that was a wood fence, and was Holmes on Homes TV show. Make sure your posts are long enough if you go deeper.

If the soil is rocky you may want to go deeper than 2 feet. Clay soil makes goot solid posts.

[contender1]

Lots of good info & tips above. Long ago I worked with a friend running chain link.

One question I have that hasn't been addressed.

What is the fencing for?

Above, it's mentioned to leave a clearance under the bottom edge for weed whacking. BUT,, if you are planning on having critters inside & want to keep them in or other critters out,, beware the diggers.
Coyotes, dogs, foxes, groundhogs, skunks, etc all will dig under a fence.

I tell people all the time to consider digging a trench and setting fencing in the trench & covering it with gravel. At least 1 ft down. If you think you may need to protect against serious digging then there are a few other things that can be done to prevent this. If you need more detailed info, PM me & we can discuss it via a phone call.

I ask this because I do Animal Damage Control work now,, and I see a LOT of problems caused by digging critters.

BTW; Post #6 is an excellent tutorial.

[hc18flyer]

Post #6 is really good detail. In our clay soils, driving the post in the dirt under the concrete effectively seals the bottom of the post. I usually drill a 1/4" hole in the post just above the concrete to allow it to drain, otherwise water in the posts would cause them to split. I have considerable experience setting greenhouse 'gutter' posts (flat surface). We would set the strings, have our posts marked for the correct height above the string, and have everything laid out. Fill the holes with concrete, allow it to set up enough to hold the posts solidly, and tap the posts into the line. We had a 'post level' that served to level the post both ways, cheap plastic, but worked well. You may want to try a 'trial run' to make sure you can get your posts in before the concrete hardens too much.
hc18flyer

[Rapier]

Before you start, gather up your equipment, mark your property line corners and lay out the fence to scale. An entrance gate off a 2 lane street 90 degree turn takes 24 feet for a fire truck or a truss truck. That is a double 12' leaf gate. Cars and P/U s can turn into a 12' single. I have put in several fences and have 1 1/2 mile of fence here at the farm with five gates, four 12' and one 24'. My chain link at the lumber yard was 1/2 mile square, that I put in. I ran HTS galvanized wire along the top and bottom on an 8'. Just spray the bottom with Cornerstone.

Never attach a fence to a growing tree and clear the ground of brush and trees with a root rake, not a mower.

[wildwilly501]

I’m assuming this is for around your residence Chain Link fence is seldom the best choice for animals good for dogs .Another thing when you stretch you can only go snug

[barnetmill]

Me being a low bucks guy for the dogs I use 5 or 4 ft x 100 rolls of welded wire fencing. For dogs you want it close to the ground. T-posts are easy to put in. For the corner posts I do use wooden CCA treated round poles. I set them in concrete, but that is not the best way to set wooden posts relative to them not rotting. I live in a hurricane prone area and trees and such will fall on a fence. Welded is cheaper to replace. To stretch the fence, two flat boards clamped together with C-clamps and a small chain hoist. Leave the fencing stretched overnight and it will relaxed and come back the morning and stretch it a little more.
Hurricane Sally flooded the lower part of my fence logs and debris knocked down portions of the fence.
Welded wire will not handle livestock like horses or cattle. Some dogs can get under or over anything by the way.

[barnetmill]

Lots of good info & tips above. Long ago I worked with a friend running chain link.

One question I have that hasn't been addressed.

What is the fencing for?

Above, it's mentioned to leave a clearance under the bottom edge for weed whacking. BUT,, if you are planning on having critters inside & want to keep them in or other critters out,, beware the diggers.
Coyotes, dogs, foxes, groundhogs, skunks, etc all will dig under a fence.

I tell people all the time to consider digging a trench and setting fencing in the trench & covering it with gravel. At least 1 ft down. If you think you may need to protect against serious digging then there are a few other things that can be done to prevent this. If you need more detailed info, PM me & we can discuss it via a phone call.

I ask this because I do Animal Damage Control work now,, and I see a LOT of problems caused by digging critters.

BTW; Post #6 is an excellent tutorial.

For hogs there is some sort of wire that is run to stop them from getting under a fence, but I do not see exactly how it works. If a hog can get its snout under something, they have tremendous lifting power.

Even a gator can get over a fence.

307496


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pZPUX8cQtfg

[justindad]

The fence is for kids and dogs. I have been thinking about the digging.
*
Thanks for all the advice!

[justindad]

I've run miles of chain link fence over the years. Land Owner pretty much nailed it....however no one mentioned how to weave chain link when you have to merge unto a new roll. I believe that I still have some simple instructions and will look for them if you like.

That would be greatly appreciated! I will have runs longer than 50ft.

[BLAHUT]

That would be greatly appreciated! I will have runs longer than 50ft.

Unbend the two ends of the same strand and twist, just unwinds. Too put two back together, just alien and twist, screw the loose strand in-between the two roles of fabric, re bend ends.

[BLAHUT]

For hogs there is some sort of wire that is run to stop them from getting under a fence, but I do not see exactly how it works. If a hog can get its snout under something, they have tremendous lifting power.

Even a gator can get over a fence.

307496


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pZPUX8cQtfg

The cable holds the bottom tight. May still be able to get under just slows them down some.

[poppy42]

Unless you’re in an area that has extremely rocky soil do you self a big favor and rent an auger! If your soil is extremely rocky don’t bother all you’ll do is break the auger.

[rockshooter]

sorta on topic- anyone ever use the foam that's advertised for setting posts?
Loren

[contender1]

Ok, kids & dogs.
Dogs are diggers,, while kids are the climbers. :D

To stop diggers.
From the inside. Dig a shallow trench 2 ft wide, along the edge of the chain link (which should be at least 2"-3" underground.) The trench can be 3-4 inches deep but MUST be wide.
Get some good wire fencing,,3 ft wide, (doesn't have to be chain link,) and lay it in the shallow trench, then fold it 90 degrees up the chain link. Attach it to the chain link. Bury the wire in the shallow trench with gravel.

An dog will go to the fence, look through, and if they try to dig in the gravel, they will only get 3"-4" down & hit a solid wire barrier. They do not know the back up 2 ft away from the fence to try & dig under.
It's best to do this with the initial install, instead of after the fact.

[Land Owner]

A Tip-of-the-Hat to the MANY excellent ideas penned. I am in sandy Florida soil and never once thought about clay plugging the bottom of posts, or letting the concrete set up a while, or embedment of posts sufficiently deep for the soil AND weather conditions (we get like 3 "sweater weather" days here annually), or drilling a drainage hole above the concrete, or letting the fence stretch overnight, or the host of other REALLY GREAT ideas. Goes to show that one size does not fit all.

Good luck.

[blackthorn]

I had a big dog, (Akita) who would dig under my 6" chain link fence. The soil was quite soft so, I got a lot of single cut broken saw blades from a sawmill and pounded it tooth-side down along the fence bottom. He tried to dig under in 3 or 4 places and then he just gave up. As far as posts go, I used metal pipe in cement no rotting posts ---ever!

[MT Gianni]

I have run plenty by my self. As said in post 6 there is most all of what you need to know. Just make sure you understand plumb, level and square.

[Reg]

when i take on a 'never done before' project--
i look at the "professionals" who do it for their day job.
Most of which have a strong back, a weak mind, and are probably one jump ahead of the squad car....

Then i ask myself, "how hard can it be".

lol !!!

[barnetmill]

When I take on a 'never done before' project--
I look at the "professionals" who do it for their day job.
Most of which have a strong back, a weak mind, and are probably one jump ahead of the squad car....

Then I ask myself, "How hard can it be".

You want to be real careful what you let such people see relative to your belongings, children, and security. Sometimes not so much the contractor but the 'helpers'. Also be wary of the laborers working for neighbors. They see something they like, they may come back for it on some night.

[MaryB]

They make a walk behind auger/skid steer/many other attachments that is my go to for making holes. It is tracked, will go anywhere, doesn't beat the heck out of your body while using it... Called a Dingo and well worth the money in time saved and less body abuse.

https://www.wbrental.com/uploads/6/8/1/9/6819317/edited/dingo-with-auger.jpg

[MaryB]

Ok, kids & dogs.
Dogs are diggers,, while kids are the climbers. :D

To stop diggers.
From the inside. Dig a shallow trench 2 ft wide, along the edge of the chain link (which should be at least 2"-3" underground.) The trench can be 3-4 inches deep but MUST be wide.
Get some good wire fencing,,3 ft wide, (doesn't have to be chain link,) and lay it in the shallow trench, then fold it 90 degrees up the chain link. Attach it to the chain link. Bury the wire in the shallow trench with gravel.

An dog will go to the fence, look through, and if they try to dig in the gravel, they will only get 3"-4" down & hit a solid wire barrier. They do not know the back up 2 ft away from the fence to try & dig under.
It's best to do this with the initial install, instead of after the fact.

Friend did this in his sled dog pen... they just backed up and dug further... they dug one tunnel 30 feet! We ended up burying heavy welded fencing under the entire pen so they had nowhere to dig.

[popper]

I did a trench and buried 3" of the fence to keep the dog from digging out. Used a flat bar for a stretcher, 30 yrs ago, fence still there.

[justindad]

Does sloped ground need special consideration? For example the first half of my backyard is level, but then there’s a grade and the ground might be a foot lower in the very back.

[Land Owner]

Only if, for aesthetics, you desire to see a constant top-of-fence line. Then you will have to deal with the "foot lower" in the back through longer posts and additional fence fabric, or another means of closure. If aesthetics are not paramount, just follow the contour of the ground.

Anchor and secure the fence fabric to an up-slope braced frame first. Pull the fabric taut. Consider a braced frame at the point of transition from level to sloped grade. If it's a radical slope change, then include a braced frame. Radical is a "V" transition where it may be necessary to stop-start the fence fabric.

Adjust tension on a gentle grade change and allow the fabric to transition to the lower slope posts, securing it as you go down grade. Chain link fence fabric is "somewhat forgiving" in transition down a gentle slope, but there is a limit. The top of the fabric will be taut. The bottom will try to creep into the ground or will "bunch" and be less taut.

[buckwheatpaul]

Does sloped ground need special consideration? For example the first half of my backyard is level, but then there’s a grade and the ground might be a foot lower in the very back.

1. All of my customers wanted the fence to follow the terrain.
2. But you may have to do a little digging and or add extra posts to level out the site so that you have a suitable site to follow the terrain.
3. You have to consider if you have pets and wild animals that dig to get in or get out. I have run a fence charger to keep digging by dogs at the bottom of the fence...or bury the fence 3 or 4" into the ground....but with the quality of the fabric available it will soon rust!
4. I like to run the bottom of the fence several inches off the terrain so that you can weed eat the site. On the ground will eat up line on the weed eater or you can use Eraser or ground sterilizer to keep weeds and grass in check.

[justindad]

Thanks to all! I’ve got four terminal post set in concrete. Let’s see what I learn the hard way :)

[justindad]

What precautions are needed when drilling post holes within 25 feet of my septic tank field lines? I am drilling below the water line.

[Land Owner]

1.) Knowing how the field is constructed is a start. Some are:
1.a.) lengths of shallow French drain (parallel pipes, each surrounded by gravel)
1.b.) shallow vaults surrounded by gravel
1.c.) mounds above the water table
1.d.) gravelless pipe
1.e.) pressurized dosing

2.) Know the field's limits and STAY OFF. The operation of equipment OVER or ON TOP of an existing leach field is a recipe for disaster as that will consolidate the soil, crush pipe, decrease the percolation rate, and shorten the life of the field. Flag the limits with orange tape, then don't drive over the tape.

3.) regarding post holes drilled below the groundwater line - no problemo. It is the way we roll in Florida, where the groundwater table in many places is often within 12 inches of the surface. The constant temperature and soil moisture will slowly strengthen the concrete in which the posts are set, sometime well above the concrete's design strength.

[scattershot]

Well, at 76, with a bad back and no skills, my favorite tools are a checkbook and a pen.

[justindad]

Thanks Land Owner! The heaviest equipment is me carrying a Harbor Freight auger, so the septic system is safe. I was just wondering if there’s sewage in the underground water that could get me sick. Looks like there’s nothing to worry about.

[Land Owner]

A thought...if the septic system is yours, then what's in it is already "personal", so it is doubtful that the groundwater 25-feet away horizontally and adjacent to the field contains ruminants which could make you sick. The bacteria in the tank and in the soil is pretty darn efficient at eliminating nutrients. Also, across the larger field of the yard and neighborhood, rainfall washes the upper soil layers deeper into the ground vertically. Bacteria and viruses are always present in the environment. A healthy person has many defenses.

Percolation is primarily vertical with some leachate spreading out horizontally by capillary attraction, at the elevation of the lowest holes in the system's pipes, or vault, or gravel pit, etc., already deeper than 12-inches below the surface.

The rate of dosing in an on-site septic system is also very small and the bulk of it IS NOT sanitary waste although 7-gallons per flush, if an older toilet, and 1.5 gallons per flush if water saving. Multiply that by the inhabitants of the house, estimated number of times they flush, wash hands in bathroom sinks, take showers, run water through the kitchen sink, wash clothes, etc., and the septic system dosing is designed for 100-gallons per person per day (conservative to preclude overdosing).

The design dosing is distributed across (guesstimate and soil percolation dependent) four (4) or six (6) 4-inch drainpipes on the order of 15 to 20-feet in length, each leg, for a French drain system. The actual dosing is a tiny amount per pipe per day and insufficient to drive the "head" (groundwater gradient) to the sides, even after years of use.

It wasn't nice and it wasn't pretty when I helped my brother dig up his system (with small backhoe) to install a vault system in its place. We got FILTHY. When it was done, we threw our shoes, gloves, and clothes away, the dirt washed off with soap and water (to "seed" the new system), and not one of us got sick or infected, just tired.