Fixed my pot yesterday!!

[cwlongshot]

This wad a gifted ol Lyman pot. Its been good for a couple years. But quit working yesterday.

https://youtu.be/Us_JEaIjDuw

[lightman]

Those old Lyman pots were pretty good.

[georgerkahn]

This wad a gifted ol Lyman pot. Its been good for a couple years. But quit working yesterday.

https://youtu.be/Us_JEaIjDuw

Having three similar Mould Masters, I watched your (great!) video! Thanks. In two of mine the wires to switch burnt off, and I ended up totally eliminating the thermostat, wiring in a PID instead. Also, on one the A.C. cord socket was vis a piece of mica which had disintegrated -- more of a challenge, as I found I could not solder the wires. (I used a .22 short case, crimped, and covered with a mix using baking soda I found on-line for insulation)
I LOVE those magnet-lights; Googled and even checked Amazon dot com -- but could not find them. (I want one!!!) Might you post a link to where they might be found and purchased?
Thanks.
geo

[cwlongshot]

Hello GEO!!

Search LED Sewing Machine Lights!

They are there thats where I got my last one. About 12$!!

Thanks for the compliments!!

CW

This last one I bought.

Amazing Power Sewing Machine Light LED Flexible Gooseneck Work Lamp with Magnetic Mount Base for Workbench Lathe Drill Press https://a.co/d/3eRLcNI

[georgerkahn]

Thank YOU!!! I have two (God willing) being delivered to me ~ 1 Decembre!
Mucho gracious, again! I can't wait to get them -- one for drill press; 2nd for MEC loading press!
geo

[PhilC]

Nice work CW! I'm not very fond of "friction fit" conductors but they work pretty decent for what they are.


In two of mine the wires to switch burnt off, and I ended up totally eliminating the thermostat, wiring in a PID instead.
I have an older Mould Master with the cast iron base and thermostat on the front. It had the old percolator coffee pot style cord and plug (bigger of course) that finally disintegrated. Upon disassembly I found the orginal thermostat was attached to the heating element with screw terminals. Bought a ceramic kiln power cord with high temp silicone coated wire, added a couple screw lugs to the new power cord, covered with high temp wire sleeves, put it back together byassing the thermostat and run it off a PID. Probably good for another 50yrs.

Now, if I could just get it to stop dripping so bad, I'd be a happy camper.

[cwlongshot]

Hahaha. So far its working. I think I may need to make more fixes but because of the age of the wire and connections. But I can get it going again if need be.

CW

[wv109323]

Another tip I learned on mine was the slip terminals or what I call spade wire terminasl. Using standard terminals they become hot and loose tension on the spade. This leads to a poor connection and more heat eventually burning the wire in two.
A steel high temperature terminal is available. I had to buy online but they solved the problem.

[beagle]

I had a drip on mine when I was using it. Finally got tired of burns and splatters. Emptied it, removed valve rod, chucked it in electric drill and polished rod smooth with a piece of emery cloth. Took the appropriate sized drill and reamed the spout. Then, I shaped a wooden dowel to fit the seat and with some light lapping compound lapped the seat out. Put heat on and dropped a small lump of beeswax on the seat hole and added lead and fired it up.
When it melted, I ran a couple of ingots through. The first one had a lot of crud on top but it stopped leaking.
Afterwayds, when it started dripping, I held a small piece of bees wax to the bottom of the spout.
Sucked it right in and the crud released and drip stopped. Still working when I let the boy have it for his. Might give this a try. They really pick up the crud from lead./beagle

Nice work CW! I'm not very fond of "friction fit" conductors but they work pretty decent for what they are.


I have an older Mould Master with the cast iron base and thermostat on the front. It had the old percolator coffee pot style cord and plug (bigger of course) that finally disintegrated. Upon disassembly I found the orginal thermostat was attached to the heating element with screw terminals. Bought a ceramic kiln power cord with high temp silicone coated wire, added a couple screw lugs to the new power cord, covered with high temp wire sleeves, put it back together byassing the thermostat and run it off a PID. Probably good for another 50yrs.

Now, if I could just get it to stop dripping so bad, I'd be a happy camper.

[PhilC]

Took the appropriate sized drill and reamed the spout. Then, I shaped a wooden dowel to fit the seat and with some light lapping compound lapped the seat out. Put heat on and dropped a small lump of beeswax on the seat hole and added lead and fired it up.
Thanks Beagle, that's where I'm going next. Had this happen once before. Cleaned the spout really well then chucked the valve rod in a drill and lapped with valve grinding compound on slow speed and it worked great. Worked fine for 6 - 8 months then started dripping, well almost running, again. Cleaned/picked all the crud out of the spout, flushed with Brakleen, blew it out with compressed air, then re-lapped, no change. Pretty sure the spout seat needs recut.

Goint to get some up close views with my Teslong bore scope, will help if I can see what it looks like.

[cwlongshot]

A little dab of bees Wax ight @ spigot, when the pot is hot can help allot to keep a good flow. Also a MIG wire cleaner can get the stubborn deposits.

CW

[Jal5]

Very informative video thx. I just ordered a pair of those lights too.


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