Is this blended wax's Type 430 microwax?

[huntinlever]

I will probably brew up more MML. I think I got my microwax originally from the Compleat Sculptor (they have it in 1 lb increments), but I see there's some Blended Wax's "White Wax for Everyday Use" here: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07MNTLYCL/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_1?smid=A1G2AUP7U47Y69&th=1. Anyone know if that's their Type 430 (going off the MML recipe here)?

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

The image files on Amazon say it's BW-42905

IMHO, I think it'll work out fine for MML.

[Dusty Bannister]

Huntinlever, I was curious about this bullet lube you mention by an abbreviation. After doing a site search, and reading through the 32 pages of bullet lube recipes by Ralph Schneider, I am not able to find a recipe. Maybe if folks would just use the full name of a product in their first post, the rest of us might be able to find out the details.

[high standard 40]

Huntinlever, I was curious about this bullet lube you mention by an abbreviation. After doing a site search, and reading through the 32 pages of bullet lube recipes by Ralph Schneider, I am not able to find a recipe. Maybe if folks would just use the full name of a product in their first post, the rest of us might be able to find out the details.
A google search for MML yielded " Mike's Micro Lithi". I'm not really familiar with it but this may help your search

[Dusty Bannister]

I found this and do not think I am curious enough to search individual posts in the archives to see if this is the one, or someone else had a different recipe.


MIKES MAGICAL MYSTERY LUBE
5 lbs beeswax
1 TBLSP Ivory
1 TBLSP Jojoba
2 TBLSP natural orange oil
1 TBLSP Johnsons p.w
1 TBLSP liquid lanolin
colored candle dye or chips of you choosing ( I will use orange or red if I ever run low
on lube) which will be at least a day or two.

I just hope I spared at least one person from going through the insanity of it all. It was
an expensive lesson, but fun none the least.

EDIT: One more thing DO NOT ever add something like kroil to a lube I did and it showed
promise at first, but a couple a weeks later them loads leaded to beat the band. All I
can figure is that the kroil slowly creeps into the pores of the lead and actually softens
the skin of a boolit.

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

I found this and do not think I am curious enough to search individual posts in the archives to see if this is the one, or someone else had a different recipe.


MIKES MAGICAL MYSTERY LUBE
5 lbs beeswax
1 TBLSP Ivory
1 TBLSP Jojoba
2 TBLSP natural orange oil
1 TBLSP Johnsons p.w
1 TBLSP liquid lanolin
colored candle dye or chips of you choosing ( I will use orange or red if I ever run low
on lube) which will be at least a day or two.

I just hope I spared at least one person from going through the insanity of it all. It was
an expensive lesson, but fun none the least.

EDIT: One more thing DO NOT ever add something like kroil to a lube I did and it showed
promise at first, but a couple a weeks later them loads leaded to beat the band. All I
can figure is that the kroil slowly creeps into the pores of the lead and actually softens
the skin of a boolit.

That is Mike's MMML+soap, which is different from MML.
Mike has mixed up many different, but similar recipes.

MML recipe see post #7
https://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?131288-varying-hardness-in-MML

Many years ago, Mike (357Maximum) sent me a sample of MML+soap,
it was very dark, and fairly hard and needed heat to flow in a lubesizer, It flows similar to WLL Carnuba Red. I like it and have used it in low velocity rifle loads where I don't want a soft lube, like when using loverin boolits with exposed lube grooves.

Honestly, if I were to use one of Mike's recipes for pistol boolits, I'd use his later 666+1 (Satan's lube). If you compare the ingredients of his lube recipes, they are all fairly similar (wax oil soap).
666+1 is similar also, except the actual ingredients are much more common (most are available at the Dollar store).

Here is a long thread about Mike's lubes, his comments, and other members opinions of them.
See post #5 for 666+1 recipe
https://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?232371-Hey-357-maximum-lubes

[Dusty Bannister]

Copied from the referenced thread by Michael:

"My MML version that will take me the rest of my life to use up:

3lb Yellow Transluscent ......Cappings grade Beeswax
1LB Gulf canning paraffin
1 - 14 oz tube el cheapo simple lithium grease *mag1m or sta-lube* (caramel colored)
1/2 lb micro 430

Babore has a slightly different version to make his saeco style sizers happy. This is not explosive we are mixing or a watch we are building....as long as you are close.... all is good.
Hope this helps,
Michael"

I thought that since there was a different source, not shown in the original post, I would insert the recipe, and source of the blending wax. Maybe save someone searching it out in the future. Thank you Jon.

BW 430 source
https://blendedwaxes.com/product/microcrystalline-wax/

[huntinlever]

Apologies Dusty, just noticed your post. This was one I got from this site (I think) many years ago and that's all I've known it by. I've only ever used this one for all my cool-to-cold weather shooting. No cold-barrel flyers, really easy to make. Just a link I found just now:

https://forum.castbulletassoc.org/thread/1690-what-is-your-recipe-for-bullet-lube/


MML ( Mike's Micro Lithi) (this lube is used on all J-word speed-High Velocity “pistol” and Rifle loads) It is my favorite lube of all time and works great in the cold without big 1st shot fliers)

3 lbs Beeswax 1-14oz tube of cheap MAG1 multipurpose lithium grease (Wal of china mart) 1/2 lb of microwax # 430 (blendedwaxes.com) 1 lb of canning/candle parraffin (craft or grocery store) 1 block of Yaley solid candle dye (craft store candle aisle)

This one is what I do, which comes from this thread: https://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?152214-Best-home-made-cheap-lube-for-rifle&p=1692599#post1692599


Lithium Grease/Beeswax lubes have got to be one of the most goofproof things out there. PERIOD.....they just plain work and the range of %'s that they work at are very generic and just plain hard to screw up.

I make MML for all my hunting lubes it does the cold really well with NO first shot flyers when the weather makes your lungs hurt and the trees are sparkling/snapping and popping from the cold:

3 LB Beeswax (1/3 = 1 lb/16 oz./454 g)
1 LB Canning Paraffin (1/3 = 5.33 oz/151 g)
1 -14oz tube of cheap caramel colored lithium auto grease (1/3 = 4.67 oz/132.4 g)
1/2 LB Microwax 430 from blended waxes .com (1/3 = 2.67 oz/75.7 g).


Melt the grease....add the micro/paraffin.........add the beeswax....keep it just molten for a few minutes while stirring to ensure it is all homogenous....your done.


For warmer weather and general non hunting use I have been using a stiffer MML/Thick mix of:
7.5Lbs beeswax
1lb Microwax #430
1lb (ish) glob of white lithium grease #630-2 from an old steel Lubriplate bucket as I have alot of it and it works. This mix does not throw any first shot flyers in the weather I have tested it in thus far and accuracy is simply amazing.


Both lubes will do any speed the rifles I use it in can handle presure wise and both have been north of 2600fps with accuracy and zero leading. Lithi-bee type recipes need not be measured out with labratory grade equipment. You can even use volume measurements if you keep track of what you did to get where you went to find happiness. I use the microwax to keep the lubes friendly and flexibendy and it has the added benefit of reducing/eliminating first shot flyers but just lithi/bwax can be used when you find the percentage that YOU and YOUR GUNS like.

I find the lithium takes direct heat to melt, which you have to be careful about. I can never get it melted over a double boiler. I do it on a heat diffuser. Once melted, I add in the paraffin and microwax, all on very low, and stir constantly. Then I remove from heat and add in the beeswax and go back and forth to melt and incorporate fully.

[huntinlever]

Hey Jon - I confirmed from the company that chemically it's identical to the Type 430 - only difference is color. So it should be good to go.

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

Hey Jon - I confirmed from the company that chemically it's identical to the Type 430 - only difference is color. So it should be good to go.

good to know ;)