Lee 6000 .38 Spl - The Journey Starts

[dverna]

Got the press and In-Line Fabrication plate this week. Started down the path today. So far not feeling much love.

Mounted the press to the QC plate and press would not cycle all the way. No biggy. The mount works with the RC and Co-Ax but had to move it forward on the bench. I have the intermediate mount and it may have not been a problem with the taller mount.

Decided to make sure everything works before trying to load as this press must perform as a progressive with reliable case feeding for it to pass my evaluation. Setting up the case feeder is a bit of chore and it looks really mickey mouse. Being a PITA to set up is not going to be an issue with me as I will buy another Lee 6000 in 9mm if this works. I only load these two calibers in enough quantity to need a true progressive with case feeder.

Loaded up the tubes by hand and it jammed on the second tube...about 15 cases in. As I ran the rest of the cases through, the shell plate is not indexing fast enough and/or will "hiccup". Works if I go slow and watch it but that is unacceptable.

Took shell plate off to lube the underside but that did not help. Had some issues getting it back together.

Not indexing so it looks like the driver clutch is damaged. Too frustrated to take it apart now and we are leaving soon to visit friends.

[GWS]

Mine came without a shellplate.....had to order it separately. Seems like I had that happen when I first tried to install that plate, and unscrewed it and tried again.....and it worked fine. Hope yours will too...... Mine's still not mounted to the bench ......QC plate didn't come in still. That's a problem living in New Mexico. USP and UPS is sssslllloooowww.

Sometimes with Lee's instructions you have to stare at them for a while! Not much to read.....so stare...... :)

[dverna]

GWS, I agree with the mediocrity of the instructions. I am not a J. Morris but not a Karen either. (Mechanical engineer and hold a half dozen patents.) I suspect only one of the guys I hunt with could set this press up.

I did force the press a little when it had its first hiccup and I should have mentioned that. I did not "muscle" it, but I take the blame for causing the issue. BTW, I have "forced' the 1050 a bit at times too, but anyone getting this press needs to realize this press does not seem to be built to take much abuse.

One last thing, before trying to feed cases I notice there was a sound like a spring releasing when cycling the press empty. The primer and case shuttle springs were not the cause of the noise.

I should also report that I am starting with super clean once fired Federal cases. Jam was not caused by using mixed HS cases. It was caused by shell plate not indexing completely and case getting rammed into the shell plate. I was running at a speed of about a case every three seconds and shell plate was fully charged with cases. I need to check is if there is enough friction with the shell plate fully loaded to cause the plate to hang up slightly.

I plan to take the press apart today to get to the drive clutch and will report back. I am hoping it is something I can fix or make out of aluminum. I have sent Lee a request for a replacement part and a spare.

[GWS]

I asked the gurus over at THR.org what they thought and this was offered. At least things to look for:

1) Plastic Cup of the driver clutch fell out and did not get put back in. (look on the floor?)
2) Cross broken in the Plastic Cup of the driver clutch.
3) Index rod not put back in, or put back in right.
4) Shell plate loose on drive bolt

That is about it

[dverna]

GWS,

First thanks for the assistance!

I found the shell plate was a bit loose and that was the issue. Once tightened down it indexes.

There is an issue with feeding cases. The cases bounce when they hit the feed ramp. If the feeder drop tube is too close to the press, the case can get too close to the press and the case will hit the frame when the ram is raised. Also, very occasionally, the case does not seat all the way into the shell holder. This can happen initially when the case is fed into the shell holder, but I have also noticed the case back out as the shuttle returns. That will cause the case to jam as the shell plate indexes. I may add some chamfers and break some edges if it continues.

The .38 Spl calls for having the riser installed on the case shuttle and it does not seem to help much. Still evaluating what to do there. I get the occasional case that falls off the ramp and sometimes a double feed.
I think having a case specific shuttle would help but I will need to make one out of wood once I find the right profile. Unlike you 'advanced' tinkerers, I do not have a 3D printer. I may try duct seal putty to experiment with. The shuttle jaws are huge. I think partly due to being "universal" but also because the case jumps when it hits the ramp and can move off center.

Tomorrow, I hope to give the primer system a test. The cases I have are unprimed so taking baby steps to keep variables as few as possible.

I am really hoping this press will work. I don't mind adding a few bits and pieces to get it running well.

Just a bit of a rant. Stuff like this is what causes issues for Lee. Instead of a "universal" case feeder shuttle offer a few different options that make feeding cases to the machine more reliable.

[Finster101]

This press is sounding more and more like a six hole Pro 1000, as I had the same exact problems with the case feeder on them. At one time I had four of them running for different calibers because once you get one set and running smooth, you dare not touch it.

[Kenstone]

:-|
.

[deces]

Got the press and In-Line Fabrication plate this week. Started down the path today. So far not feeling much love.

Mounted the press to the QC plate and press would not cycle all the way. No biggy. The mount works with the RC and Co-Ax but had to move it forward on the bench. I have the intermediate mount and it may have not been a problem with the taller mount.

Decided to make sure everything works before trying to load as this press must perform as a progressive with reliable case feeding for it to pass my evaluation. Setting up the case feeder is a bit of chore and it looks really mickey mouse. Being a PITA to set up is not going to be an issue with me as I will buy another Lee 6000 in 9mm if this works. I only load these two calibers in enough quantity to need a true progressive with case feeder.

Loaded up the tubes by hand and it jammed on the second tube...about 15 cases in. As I ran the rest of the cases through, the shell plate is not indexing fast enough and/or will "hiccup". Works if I go slow and watch it but that is unacceptable.

Took shell plate off to lube the underside but that did not help. Had some issues getting it back together.

Not indexing so it looks like the driver clutch is damaged. Too frustrated to take it apart now and we are leaving soon to visit friends.

There might be a milling chip in the clutch, it's an easy part to remove with the indexing rod out. I found some on my pro 4k, it didn't cause a problem, but I was kinda shocked at what I found, the press still carries on to this day.

[deces]

There are a lot of things people do for Lee's wonky case feeder system. 3D printing as improved upon it to the point of it being completely different in appearance. Another thing people do it get nylon 1/4-20 bushings of different lengths for each of their common calibers for quick swaps. I can see Lee redoing their vision of case feeding down the road if this press takes off. Even a simple wingnut in the place of the bottom nut is an improvement.

[deces]

""the case can get too close to the press and the case will hit the frame when the ram is raised""

That issue is the same with the 4000 and fixes have been posted about it.
One fix is a 3D printed piece and the simplest is just taping a piece of plastic on the face of the frame that hangs down to block the gap under the frame where the case bounces into and hits the frame when raised.
jmo,
.

Here is just the very part. Oh yeah, if anyone can print me a couple, please message me, Thanks.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4683770

[Gillie Dog]

I found the shell plate was a bit loose and that was the issue. Once tightened down it indexes.

The .38 Spl calls for having the riser installed on the case shuttle and it does not seem to help much. Still

Tomorrow, I hope to give the primer system a test. The cases I have are unprimed so taking baby steps to keep variables as few as possible.

The case slider tends to drag "large" cases back at times because of how loose it is on the rail. Lee will have a new one "mid-December".

I have not noticed it with 38 spl but 44 mag and 45 acp seem effected by this.

I did 100 38 spl cases priming with no other operation as a test and had zero failures or issues (I did 100 each of all six pistol calibers I reload and had zero failures or issues, I keep tray full/refill as soon as it has emptied into trough.)

I will see how it goes with case feeder when a real run is done but on previous Lee press with this feeder I did ok with 38 spl.

GD

[dverna]

Keystone, thanks got the tips. Adding a plastic barricade is the first modification I will do. Simple and elegant.

Gillie Dog, thanks for the info on the improved case shuttle.

Deses, the wing nut is good solution. I think I will use them to replace the two lower nuts. Might be unnecessary for long term use but handy for dialing in. My plan is to use the 6000 as a dedicated press so once it is dialed in, I will not be changing calibers.

Appreciate the help guys!!!

[Kenstone]

OOPS
:holysheep
.

[jetinteriorguy]

Here is just the very part. Oh yeah, if anyone can print me a couple, please message me, Thanks.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4683770
Check on ETSY, there are kits for the case feeder there.

[dverna]

More frustration.

Primer rod will stick and jam the press and primer shuttle. Seems like any little bit of dirt and it hangs up. First time was with some Clean Shot powder (fine grain). Got it running for a dozen cases and it jammed again.

The primer flipper thingy is not suited for Federal primers that come in a larger box. Not a big deal as I can dump them into another tray and pour them into the Lee flippy thingy. But with the lid "locked" I still get 4-5 primers escaping the tray. Again, not a big deal as I can shake them into the same tray. Just more PITA stuff. Nice not needing primer tubes but I doubt the plastic thingy will last 20k rounds. I tried to load 50 rounds and have given up for today.

Will take another shot at it tomorrow.

The primer stem issue is a concern at this point. Will try coating it in grease so dirt/powder does not go down the stem. Any other thoughts are welcomed.

Just as a comparison. None of my Dillions have been this "needy".

Lee is sending a new clutch disk. The original seems to work if I orient the flat bar into the part of the "x" part of the plastic disk that is not deformed from my first jam up.

[GWS]

The primer stem issue is a concern at this point. Will try coating it in grease so dirt/powder does not go down the stem. Any other thoughts are welcomed.


That's a possibility, but you could also try burnishing powdered graphite into the stem and the shell plate hole to make both slicker. I've used a Q-tip for burnishing holes and just cotton cloth to burnish convex surfaces.....I've been successful burnished Lee plastic parts too....good luck.

Wondering why all the spillage? Not that far along with mine yet to experience that.

[deces]

Thanks for the link
I have been off searching utube for vids of that and searching over on THR.
Some pics here:
https://www.thehighroad.org/index.php?threads/new-lee-ablp-for-me.911038/page-3#post-12427284
As mentioned before, that could be easily replicated with a piece of plastic bottle duct taped to the surface.

I found another version that moves up and down:
https://www.youtube.com/shorts/dZ12vDbI8gk

And something different, a spring-loaded gate/escapement mounted to the 1/4-20 feeder bolt:
https://www.youtube.com/shorts/3cOO6qP59HM
check them out,
.

Can you please PM me a esty link? I can't find one on there for the life of me. I do like the idea of the sliding one in that video.

[dverna]

Got up early hoping for more wisdom to deal with the sticking primer stem issue.

More thoughts about the Lee press.

The fine grain powder I am using may be a problem. Maybe a coarser powder like Red Dot or Unique would not cause a jam so quickly. Also, I dumped powder when the primer had not been seated. This will be a continuing problem. I had put some oil on the primer stem and that was a stupid thing to do. The oil will trap and debris. GWS's idea of powdered graphite is a much better way to go.

As to the powder dispenser. I hate it. It is tiny (maybe 1/2 lb capacity). You cannot dump test charges back into it as it is an inverted bottle. If they had added a "plug" like on MEC bottles it would have solved that problem. To add powder, you need to take the bottle off. In a normal run I will load 500-2000 rounds at a time. For low volume shooters not a problem. Will be a pain for high volume shooters. Other observations. You need a funnel to fill the powder bottle. Also, you cannot put in a powder baffle to help with consistent powder drops. Likely a good idea to shake the bottle to settle the powder before putting it back on the press. One nice feature is the bottle has a shut off. I also like the powder drum design. Easy to adjust and easy to swap out rotors that are preset for different loads for those who load many recipes. Those rotors/drums are only about $5 each. If I keep the press, the powder bottle will be modified with an open top and extended to hold a pound of powder. Not hard to do.

Hopefully I can get the primer stem issue solved shortly. Will also reach out to Lee for advice.

I should not have attempted to load ammunition yesterday. So taking a couple of steps back today. Good news is, I seem to be the only one having problems. Everyone seems ga-ga over this press!!!

[dverna]

Just loaded 50 rounds. It took over an hour.

Primer stem stuck again. If a primer does not seat and a fine powder is dumped it will jam the primer stem. Happened twice. Also wound up kinking the primer shuttle return spring on one jam. Inserted a piece of #14 insulated wire to get the spring working again.

Got this response from Lee just before posting this:


Tammy @ Lee Precision, Inc.
Staff - 11/23/2022 8:18 am

Good morning Donald,

Are you dry cycling your press?

If you are dry cycling small primer pocket cases, we suggest not running the press all the way to the bottom of the stroke as if there is any contamination in the primer pocket, it may cause the primer pin to stick into the primer pocket and not retract.

Please let us know if we can further assist you!

Have a wonderful day!

Sincerely,

Tammy

Lee Precision Inc.

4275 Hwy U

Hartford WI 53027



IMO is this is unacceptable. One missed primer and the press will jam if using a fine grain powder. I wanted it this press to work, but it will not be suitable for either the powders I use, or how I wish to reload. And to put the icing on the cake, even Lee knows a bit of dirt will jam it up. Maybe I am just a slob and too lazy to have clean room standards to load pistol ammunition.

I am spoiled. I can produce over 700 rounds an hour on the 1050 and 350 rph on the 550 using dry tumbled cases. Plus, I am not constantly checking to see if a primer drops, case does not fall off the feed ramp, or if the press indexes.

I was not expecting 1050 performance from a $350 press but it should at least match a 550, or why invest in one?

Rant over.

Good luck to the rest of you guys.

I will attempt to return it. If I cannot return it, I will list it for sale and one of you "lucky" guys will get the latest and greatest from Lee!!!

[HangFireW8]

Just loaded 50 rounds. It took over an hour.
...
IMO is this is unacceptable. One missed primer and the press will jam if using a fine grain powder. I wanted it this press to work, but it will not be suitable for either the powders I use, or how I wish to reload. And to put the icing on the cake, even Lee knows a bit of dirt will jam it up. Maybe I am just a slob and too lazy to have clean room standards to load pistol ammunition.

Sound frustrating. It may not help you to know this, but that's not the only progressive that will jam up with powder through the hole of an unprimed case. Of course, that case should have never been left unprimed...

I had similar pains years ago when I got a Hornady Pro-Jector, especially with priming. The primer adjustment sequence was non-obvious, non-intuitive and downright difficult, and it took forever to get it feeding correctly. Once I mastered that, and just the right rhythm and correct "flick" of the handle at just the right moment to eject a loaded round, it/we became consistently productive. Any deviation, and I was pulling off half-loaded rounds and cleaning up powder. One thing that kept me productive was just to leave those aside and keep going with remaining cases and primers in the feeder, then do them singly later at the end of the batch.

But if it's more frustration than it's worth, get your money back and get something else. With enough returns Lee will improve their designs, they always do, and someone else will benefit. Just not you, lol.

[deces]

Is the powder being slung out of the cases in their rotation around the press?

[deces]

I had similar pains years ago when I got a Hornady Pro-Jector, especially with priming. The primer adjustment sequence was non-obvious, non-intuitive and downright difficult, and it took forever to get it feeding correctly. Once I mastered that, and just the right rhythm and correct "flick" of the handle at just the right moment to eject a loaded round, it/we became consistently productive. Any deviation, and I was pulling off half-loaded rounds and cleaning up powder. One thing that kept me productive was just to leave those aside and keep going with remaining cases and primers in the feeder, then do them singly later at the end of the batch.

I will never buy from cornady again because of their service I got while calling in about the primer system on a LnL-AP & a stuck case I paid to have removed from a die.
It turns out that after a short time I got the LnL-AP the revised their priming system where the cam was made top pop out of place rather than bending because of a couple grains of powder migrated to the priming station.

[HangFireW8]

I will never buy from cornady again because of their service I got while calling in about the primer system on a LnL-AP & a stuck case I paid to have removed from a die.
It turns out that after a short time I got the LnL-AP the revised their priming system where the cam was made top pop out of place rather than bending because of a couple grains of powder migrated to the priming station.

Hornady service has been generally good, but sometimes hit-or-miss for me. They made me a sizing die for free just because I complained about the final dimensions. I was told they would update the prints (444 Marlin), not sure if that ever happened. Then other times I've called and it's like I'm wasting everyone's time. Same with Lyman, and Lee you're obviously wasting their time (well, it's been a while, maybe better now).

But in all cases, with some patience, persistence and charm, I've managed to get what I need from all of them.

[Kenstone]

Just loaded 50 rounds. It took over an hour.

Primer stem stuck again. If a primer does not seat and a fine powder is dumped it will jam the primer stem. Happened twice. Also wound up kinking the primer shuttle return spring on one jam. Inserted a piece of #14 insulated wire to get the spring working again.

I will attempt to return it. If I cannot return it, I will list it for sale and one of you "lucky" guys will get the latest and greatest from Lee!!!

Sorry to read about your continuing problems with priming on the 6000.

[Finster101]

Sorry, I'm going to pile on a bit. Lee's priming system sucks and has for years. The only change that I see that they have done to improve it is to change the shape of the reservoir from round to triangular and still rely on a two piece plastic trough to present the primers into the station. If they ever get a good priming system, they would be hard to beat. I like a lot of Lee stuff I really do, but I do not see myself ever owning one of their progressive presses again.

[deces]

I am assuming this is the same experience that the OP is having with the priming.
As someone stated before, I think graphite would be best applied here.

https://youtu.be/ZVsbrloDrCI

[Kenstone]

Sorry, I'm going to pile on a bit. Lee's priming system sucks and has for years. The only change that I see that they have done to improve it is to change the shape of the reservoir from round to triangular and still rely on a two piece plastic trough to present the primers into the station. If they ever get a good priming system, they would be hard to beat. I like a lot of Lee stuff I really do, but I do not see myself ever owning one of their progressive presses again.

Wow, OK
That tray changed from round about 10 YEARS ago...
Lee has introduced 3 or 4 presses in that 10 years too.

The priming system on this 6000 is a completely NEW design.
Yes, there is still a trough but it's wider and the primers are staggered.
Primers can now be seen in the primer slide for a visual check, not buried in a trough UNDER the shell plate.

Primer pin sticking is a common problem in every brand of progressive press and is due to powder spillage and primer smooge contamination, we have all experienced it.
Well, maybe not you though...
And that powder spillage is due to operators continuing on when there is no primer present in the case.
jmo,
.

[Kenstone]

Never mind
Nothing to see here.

[dverna]

If the primer slide starts to pull out before the priming pin has cleared the bottom of the slide, the slider end could be holding the side of the pin, not allowing it to drop down.
I think a variation in the operating spring length could cause this timing difference. especially a spring that has been kinked!!
just a thought,
:idea:

If I had this press with this problem I'd be looking into a heavier spring for the priming pin.
just me though,
.


Once debris gets in the hole the primer stem slides in, the primer stem locks up. IMO, the fit of the primer stem and hole is too loose. Maybe loose manufacturing tolerances. If the clearance was .001”, it is possible stuff would not get lodged.

It locks up so tight, I needed to beat the pin out. A stronger spring is not going to work.

Edit to add:

Say the tolerance on the hole is .250 +/-.002 and tolerance on pin is .245+/-.002

If the unit ships with a .248 hole and .247 pin, there may be no place for debris to go.

But what if the unit ships with a .252 hole and .243 pin? Now we have a .009 gap for stuff to lodge in.

Just speculating.

[deces]

Once debris gets in the hole the primer stem slides in, the primer stem locks up. IMO, the fit of the primer stem and hole is too loose. Maybe loose manufacturing tolerances. If the clearance was .001”, it is possible stuff would not get lodged.

It locks up so tight, I needed to beat the pin out. A stronger spring is not going to work.

Edit to add:

Say the tolerance on the hole is .250 +/-.002 and tolerance on pin is .245+/-.002

If the unit ships with a .248 hole and .247 pin, there may be no place for debris to go.

But what if the unit ships with a .252 hole and .243 pin? Now we have a .009 gap for stuff to lodge in.

Just speculating.

Can you parkerize? The magnesium phosphate will build up that difference on the seating stem.

[Kenstone]

Look for a quote of this post to view it.
otherwise, never mind. :coffeecom

[dverna]

Kenstone,

If I need to wet tumble, the press is a failure for how I reload. Might be perfect for others.

If I need to deprime before loading, the press is a failure for how I reload. Might be perfect for others.

If I need to prime off the press, the press is a failure for how I reload. Might be perfect for others.

I already stated what is happening. I am using fine grained powder. If a case does not get a primer seated the powder drops onto the primer stem and jams it up. You may call that operator error, I call it an unreliable primer system. We can agree to disagree. I am used to stuff that works most of time and is easy to fix when it screws up.



Just so others understand.
Once the primer stem hangs up, you must remove the shell plate and disassemble the shell plate carrier from the bottom cover. This is not an easy and painless process. The primer shuttle, case feeder and case shuttle have to be removed. The index ball is not contained and keeps falling off the spring. (BTW I used heavy grease to help keep it from falling off.) Then you need to get the priming stem positioned just right as it flops around while bringing the shell carrier and cover together and trapping the index ball. I did not time it, but estimate it takes 15 minutes from start to finish. Oh, and those pesky little springs to actuate the primer and case feeders are a lot of fun to reattach.

One piece of advice. When starting out, do not use the case feeder or case shuttle. Manually place the cases into the shell holder. Fewer things to deal with when you need to take things apart. You will not lose any "productivity"...LOL. If you can get the primer system to work, adding case feeding is not as challenging.

Like I mentioned earlier, if you have a coarser powder start with that. I have 30 lbs of Clean Shot so it needs to work, but it will jam the primer stem with one boo-boo.

IMO the primer stem design is a fatal flaw. It is not a matter of if it will hang up but when. Maybe I got a lemon, or maybe it is me. YMMV

[Kenstone]

Kenstone,

If I need to wet tumble, the press is a failure for how I reload. Might be perfect for others.

If I need to deprime before loading, the press is a failure for how I reload. Might be perfect for others.

If I need to prime off the press, the press is a failure for how I reload. Might be perfect for others.

I already stated what is happening. I am using fine grained powder. If a case does not get a primer seated the powder drops onto the primer stem and jams it up. You may call that operator error, I call it an unreliable primer system. We can agree to disagree. I am used to stuff that works most of time and is easy to fix when it screws up.



Just so others understand.
Once the primer stem hangs up, you must remove the shell plate and disassemble the shell plate carrier from the bottom cover. This is not an easy and painless process. The primer shuttle, case feeder and case shuttle have to be removed. The index ball is not contained and keeps falling off the spring. (BTW I used heavy grease to help keep it from falling off.) Then you need to get the priming stem positioned just right as it flops around while bringing the shell carrier and cover together and trapping the index ball. I did not time it, but estimate it takes 15 minutes from start to finish. Oh, and those pesky little springs to actuate the primer and case feeders are a lot of fun to reattach.

One piece of advice. When starting out, do not use the case feeder or case shuttle. Manually place the cases into the shell holder. Fewer things to deal with when you need to take things apart. You will not lose any "productivity"...LOL. If you can get the primer system to work, adding case feeding is not as challenging.

Like I mentioned earlier, if you have a coarser powder start with that. I have 30 lbs of Clean Shot so it needs to work, but it will jam the primer stem with one boo-boo.

IMO the primer stem design is a fatal flaw. It is not a matter of if it will hang up but when. Maybe I got a lemon, or maybe it is me. YMMV

OK, thanks for the response and explanation of your position.
Good luck going forward,
:smile:
.

[dverna]

Spent some time on the Six Pack forum on Facebook today.

Looks like my issues are not unique. Lee has modified the primer shuttle, the bottom cover plate and the primer stem/spring. Here is a picture of the primer stem and cover plate:

307207


The new one is on the right. It has a triangle cut out for debris to exit. Both the stem and spring are different. Some discussion about the new ones being beveled.

There are a few videos showing the press operating done by David Sherman the Admin. They are the first ones you see. Painful to watch if you run a Dillon.

Some chatter on the forum about a 100 round challenge. REALY? That tells a lot about how this press is starting out of the gate.

There is another video by Nicholas Evanczik showing how to remove the lower cover plate. It will explain why it takes so long and why Lee does not offer a LP stem. If you had to change primer stems no one would buy this press. It takes almost nine minutes and he did not take off the case feeder and reinstall it. BTW, I was doing it incorrectly. I did not remove the tool head or take the linkages off. I managed to get it apart and weave it through the support rods.

The good news is Lee is trying to find fixes and seems to be responsive. I wish I had waited another 6-12 months but hindsight is 20/20. I did not invest $350 to bash Lee; but they have proven once again they do little testing. Maybe their employees are being pushed too hard to bring a product to market. Maybe the bean counters and sales department are not listening to the techies developing the press.

Whatever the reason, Lee should have learned by now.

[Kenstone]

Off to search Facebook for that Six Pack Forum and joining it.
[smilie=2:

[dverna]

GWS, glad to hear your press is working well. Please keep us posted so folks get a fair and balanced report.

Did you add graphite before running the press, or have you not had a primer failure yet?

BTW, on the 550 a missed primer does not cause powder to drop onto the primer seater. That makes it more forgiving. The 1050 has the same advantage, with priming done on a separate station.

One thing I am thinking about is moving the powder drop on the 6000 to station 3. That way if there is no primer, powder does not fall directly on the primer punch. Are you charging powder on station 2 or 3? This “wastes” a station but seems like a small price to pay for an improvement in reliability.

I have the press boxed up and ready to return but may give that try this weekend.

[deces]

Spent some time on the Six Pack forum on Facebook today.

Looks like my issues are not unique. Lee has modified the primer shuttle, the bottom cover plate and the primer stem/spring. Here is a picture of the primer stem and cover plate:


If you contact lee, I am sure they will be happy to swap out the old priming rod & bottom plate for the new ones.
I have a question for you about the indexing rod. when installed in the press, does it rest on the top of the steel base plate or does it kind of float?

[dverna]

If you contact lee, I am sure they will be happy to swap out the old priming rod & bottom plate for the new ones.
I have a question for you about the indexing rod. when installed in the press, does it rest on the top of the steel base plate or does it kind of float?

The indexing rod rests on the base of the press.

[deces]

Thank, I have been wondering about this for a while. When I look at my ABLP, the indexing rod sits the same on the press, but in the steel base there is a cut just below the rod. It's like at some point in time Lee wanted the indexing rod to rest inside of the steel base. The problem is though, it's 180* off :dung_hits_fan:

[GWS]

GWS, glad to hear your press is working well. Please keep us posted so folks get a fair and balanced report.

Did you add graphite before running the press, or have you not had a primer failure yet?

BTW, on the 550 a missed primer does not cause powder to drop onto the primer seater. That makes it more forgiving. The 1050 has the same advantage, with priming done on a separate station.

One thing I am thinking about is moving the powder drop on the 6000 to station 3. That way if there is no primer, powder does not fall directly on the primer punch. Are you charging powder on station 2 or 3? This “wastes” a station but seems like a small price to pay for an improvement in reliability.

I have the press boxed up and ready to return but may give that try this weekend.

Don-- I erased my post as premature, because I wanted to investigate what's going on with yours. Where I burnished graphite was in the primer chute, for about ten minutes. I took the chute off the press and discovered it's sort of "hinged" so it opens enough to get a Q-tip inside. So with fine graphite I made a little pile in a medicine bottle cap and dipped the Q-tip and burnished repeatedly. That made it slick but still not slick enough to feed the last three since they are no longer on a slope. Lee probably should have kept the grade slope close to the end....

Is that where and why you failed to prime? Or was it something else. I haven't loaded cases yet, but I have tested with primers and powder, a bunch of times trying to find problems. So far the Lee case feed system works well.....the plate advances well.....the primers feed excepting the last three (not enough stack weight behind the last three to push them into the shuttle) ..... the priming rod has plenty of clearance and doesn't hang up on the plate.....but I can see what would happen if it was lubed with grease or oil that spilled powder could stick to.....which is why I suggested graphiting the rod and rod hole.

I do indeed prime and charge in station two....using an "M" powder-thru expander inside my RCBS Uniflow Powder measure. So I see there's a problem if you don't get primed....but I haven't had a problem priming excepting the last three in a stack. I don't have any binding on the priming rod.....but I'm going to burnish graphite onto the rod if I experience what you are. Nothing sticks to graphite.

I'm also working on a 3D printed part that I hope will solve the last three primer problem.....if I succeed, and I think I will, I'll send you one if you keep your press.....But don't keep it based on only that, because it's got to work for you.

[dverna]

GWS,

Will try the powdered graphite...just need to get some.

I am hoping moving the powder drop to station 3 resolves the issue with pumping powder onto the primer stem. I will drill a hole in the bottom cover plate so I do not build up powder in there.

I really want this to work.

Appreciate your kindness in offering the part to feed those last three primers but that has not been an issue yet. I have nor been able to load more than 50 rounds so far without a hang up. I may add a vibrator like I have on my shotshell reloader to help with primer delivery. Tapping the tray will work short term but the vibrator should help out if I keep the press. BTW, if you figure out a way to signal when the primers are about to run out it would a very useful accessory. Maybe a proximity switch? Dillon has a dead simple system when primers are low. Running out of primers on this press and dumping powder onto the primer station will not be a pleasant result. I think using the third position of the tool head to charge powder makes even more sense in light of these issues.

BTW, do not cycle the press with unprimed cases. There is speculation the primer stem can get jammed in the primer pocket in the case and cause a problem. I was using unprimed cases to test with and that have caused my first major jam.

I really want this press to work but so far it has been frustrating. I have cooled off a bit and will try again. Graf has told me Lee is sending some parts. I was out when the call came in so my fiancé got the call. Not sure what they are sending. Hopefully the new primer shuttle, primer stem, bottom cover and spring are included.

The other change I will make is to mount my Dillon dies. When I loaded those 50 rounds using the Lee dies I had three cases with bad dents. Another user has reported a similar glitch and needed to return the press. I am hoping it is not a press problem but a die problem. Might be wishful thinking.



Let us know how things work once you start cranking out rounds.

[dverna]

Took GWS's advice and gave the primer slide assembly a good dose of powdered graphite as well as the primer stem. I also moved the powder measure to position 3 so any hiccups would not drop powder onto the primer stem. Replaced the Lee dies with my Dillon dies. They seem to have helped, not sure why.

Much improved. Did not install case feeder and hand fed the cases. Of course, bullets were hand fed.

Indexing is not reliable. It may be the clutch disk. Going slow seems to help. This will not run like a 1050 or 650 as it sits now, but I am hoping the new clutch disk is the answer. It is a mickey mouse part and easily mangled. I have some thoughts on modifying it and will see what I can do with the original part when the new parts get here.

Loaded 50 rounds in 9 minutes with one jam. One slightly mashed primer. 40% of rounds (.38 spl with 125 gr bullets) missed the collection bin. Should be able to fab something to resolve and it may not be an issue with shorter cases that are not as top heavy. More mickey mouse engineering but not a deal killer. Again, if you slow down much fewer cases miss the bin. I cannot envision getting rifle cases to drop into the catch bin.

Later today I will try the case feeder and see how it goes.

Replacement parts are being sent from Lee after I advised Graf I wanted to return the machine. These include the clutch disk, new primer slide (I believe this is longer than the original and will report back), new retainer ring, and new primer spring. The improved primer stem and bottom cover are not included in the replacement parts being sent.

I will install the new parts when I get them.

Feeling a bit of love.

My criteria for success will be a production rate of 500 rph. That will be better than a manual index 550 with the safety of an auto index machine. In addition, this press will allow the addition of a powder check die.

[dverna]

Got the case feeder installed. 50 rounds in 6:51. Works out to 435 rph.

Two primers did not seat but they did not cause the primer stem to jam like in the past. With powder now dropping in station 3, powder is not getting poured onto the stem and binding it up. One primer did not seat fully. 94% reliability is not acceptable but I am using a kinked spring so I will chalk it up to that.

Two double case feeds and one case getting trapped between shell carrier and frame. Easy to solve with a little "dam".

I am going to wait for the new parts to get here. In the meantime, will work on a "dam" to keep cases from bouncing under frame and improving ejection. BTW with the case feed installed the ejected rounds bounce off it into the bin. Only two rounds on the floor this time. Should be easy to get that working as it should.

I think 500 rph is doable as I get better with this press. Will know more next week when new parts arrive, and I give it a good cleaning.

One habit I need to get into is looking at the primer feed shuttle. Something that cannot be done on a Dillon...and not required either. If primer shuttle returns with a primer the primer did not get seated.

I could not find replacement springs at ACE. I will want a few on hand and $5 ea seems a bit steep. If anyone has sourced them elsewhere, please post. Maybe Lee could offer a 6 pack of springs for $15.

Much thanks to GSW for the graphite hint and "dissing" me when I deserved it.

[GWS]

Thought you might get a kick out of this.......watch it full screen so you can see what's going on.


https://youtu.be/KlR0CzfejAk

I'd really rather Lee develop a better priming system that can empty to the last primer. But since I have this press, I wanted to be able to empty it when the last three just won't fall into the shuttle. So that's why the stop gap measure. It works pretty good, even while it deflects a little when Lee's stupid feed spring is in the way. Ha, Ha......gives those last three primers a "swift kick"!

[rbuck351]

I have three of the old Lee pro 1000s and have been following this thread to see if there newer presses have made dramatic improvements. It appears Lee has not. I spent a lot of hours figuring out how to make the pro 1000s work.The only things I haven't been able to fix is getting the primers to continue to feed after the tray is empty and how to keep powder in the short 9mm cases until the bullet is installed. One should not have to do a lot of fixing on a new press.

I also have a Dillon 550b that is almost fool proof. It's only issue is once or twice in 1000 rounds a primer will jump out of the slider on the way under the case. This causes spilled powder on the press but so far has never caused the press to malfunction.

[dverna]

GWS, that is pretty neat. I am going to try a small vibrator on it like I had on my Spolar shotshell reloader. It will be activated on the downstroke for a second or two.

rbuck, never had a Lee 1000 but two fellows I know had them and gave up on them. Both got 550's. The indexing on the 6000 can be "snappy" and other times not. When it is snappy, I suspect powder will be thrown out of a 9mm case. GWS bought his to load 9mm. He will be able to answer your question. I think I can reduce the snappiness of indexing but at this point it is not affecting loading .38's and I have other bugs I am dealing with.

The press feels solid and hopefully the bugs can be resolved. IMHO, a Dillon user will not be impressed with the 6000.

I have spent at least 10 hours dinking around with the 6000 and it is "not there" yet. I have never needed more than two hours to get any flavor Dillon to produce reloads in quantity. It is apparent Lee did almost no testing before putting the press out and we are essentially "beta testers". Lee is stepping up and helping with free parts and making modifications.

Some people do not know any better, and seem willing to accept lesser performance to save money. There are very few negative comments on the Facebook forum even though some of the videos are painful to watch. It is akin to people who have an ill-tempered dog that needs to be put down but are unable to accept reality.

The press has potential. Someone who thinks they can unbox it and reload 500 rounds the first day needs to buy a Dillon or wait until the bugs on the 6000 are worked out.

Just my opinion.

[GWS]

I agree......but I needed a project this winter not an expensive press......already have 2 of those.....just not Dillons. I watched jmorris turn a Loadmaster into one of the fastest presses I've seen, and I don't recommend people trying to copy that.....he didn't leave detailed instructions.... not for the faint of heart. ;)

Dillons aren't perfect either....closer....yes. So's my green presses. I'm still working on my brother's Dillon 650, trying to teach him to live with it.....and adding the "fixes" that make it better.....and I did the same thing for my Pro 2000 and Pro Chucker 7 presses. Haven't seen a 750 yet. The 550 never interested me, not enough stations for my liking.....5 is better, 7 is better still.....but I admit what got me to buy the 6000 was the 6 stations, and curiosity whether Lee could make 6 work reliably in such a small package. The jury is still out...... Hornady AP's, I haven't given much of a look yet....it's a project imperfect press too.....but I like the smooth plate rotation using half steps. The Pro Chucker is really smooth too.....I think smoother than a "fixed" 650....but that kit isn't installed on my brother's yet, so I will see first hand. None of us like powder jumping out of a short case.

Speaking of smooth.....the 6000 is a little too jerky....maybe there's a fix for that too....but I haven't had that mechanism apart.

[Three44s]

GWS,

The half step on the LNL is not always enough to stop powder getting pitched onto the shell plate. I had trouble with my press charging 380 auto and red dot with a friend loading with it. Since then I saw a supposed fix using a rubber o-ring in place of the factory spring to retain cases. I would rather switch to a less bulky powder to avoid the hassle in the first place.

But the o-ring trick would be easy to try.

Three44s

[dverna]

I agree......but I needed a project this winter not an expensive press......already have 2 of those.....just not Dillons. I watched jmorris turn a Loadmaster into one of the fastest presses I've seen, and I don't recommend people trying to copy that.....he didn't leave detailed instructions.... not for the faint of heart. ;)



I saw that video and you are right. It was impressive. I have seen pictures of Morris's reloading room and IIRC there were a bunch of 1050's mounted. So my little pea brain wonders...if a $300 press can run like shown in the video, why would he keep those 1050's? If he is reading this thread, I hope he shares his reasoning. Frankly, that video was one reason I rolled the dice on the 6000. After all, the next Lee iteration should be better? Right?

As I mentioned earlier, if the 6000 works reasonably well, I intend to sell my 1050 and have two 6000's. One set up in .38 and one in 9mm. I no longer shoot enough to need to produce 750 rph. I do not get my jollies reloading. I want a decent auto-indexing press that has a case feeder and a powder check. I am not wired like most folks on this forum. The only thing worse than reloading is casting. If a press needs constant tinkering it is not for me.

I will be following your journey with the 9mm press. Powder getting kicked out the case becomes an issue with 9mm. Replacing the steel ball with a plastic one may help. Another thought is to use a weaker spring under the ball. Plastic will not last as long but if it will last 20k rounds that would be acceptable. It takes 10 minutes to change it out.

Please keep posting your progress on this thread so we have a repository of information on Lee 6000 others can benefit from.

BTW ordered the vibrator motor and microswitch last night and should have them by the end of the week. Will report on how it works to feed primers once I get it jury rigged up.

[deces]

I agree......but I needed a project this winter not an expensive press......already have 2 of those.....just not Dillons. I watched jmorris turn a Loadmaster into one of the fastest presses I've seen, and I don't recommend people trying to copy that.....he didn't leave detailed instructions.... not for the faint of heart. ;)

Dillons aren't perfect either....closer....yes. So's my green presses. I'm still working on my brother's Dillon 650, trying to teach him to live with it.....and adding the "fixes" that make it better.....and I did the same thing for my Pro 2000 and Pro Chucker 7 presses. Haven't seen a 750 yet. The 550 never interested me, not enough stations for my liking.....5 is better, 7 is better still.....but I admit what got me to buy the 6000 was the 6 stations, and curiosity whether Lee could make 6 work reliably in such a small package. The jury is still out...... Hornady AP's, I haven't given much of a look yet....it's a project imperfect press too.....but I like the smooth plate rotation using half steps. The Pro Chucker is really smooth too.....I think smoother than a "fixed" 650....but that kit isn't installed on my brother's yet, so I will see first hand. None of us like powder jumping out of a short case.

Speaking of smooth.....the 6000 is a little too jerky....maybe there's a fix for that too....but I haven't had that mechanism apart.

Is there enough room under the shell plate for a roller needle bearing like the aftermarket kits for Dillions?

[dverna]

I have been thinking about those 100 rounds I loaded. The jams and hiccups....

I am going to break them all down. I have no confidence I did not get a double charge. With over 500k reloads I have never had a double charge.

I will weigh each charge to determine not only if I got a double charge but analyze powder drop consistency.

[GWS]

I finally, after 2 years sitting on a shelf, decided to used a Lockout Die. I got all the dies set up and passed 3 9mm through the system to test.....perfect. But besides the Lockout die, I'm using another RCBS product a Uniflow because I had it already. Here's my die setup:

1. Lee 9mm Sizer
2. RCBS Powder Measure with powder-thru "M" style expander
3. RCBS Lock Out Powder Cop
4. 3D printed bullet feeder die and bullet collator
5. Lee 9mm Seater
6 Lee 9mm Crimper

A short video of the first case run through; You can see more details full screen:


https://youtu.be/cNny_P1lsyk

I used Unique....therefore powder is high.....did not experience spillage, but then this is one cartridge done....a little furtively, carefully? ;)

Notice how straight and true the bullet is placed (and stays), on the second run through I stopped after the bullet was fed, before seating and removed it....turned it upside down and shook. Bullet did not come out. That's what an "M" style die is for.

Lee is developing a new powder-through expander with a "M" feature! It's way worth it not to have bullets tilting after the feeder and going to the feeder in that state.. Hope Lee's successful with that. ('bout time?)

I haven't had the advance mechanism apart. So I wouldn't know how easy it'd be to make it smoother advancing, but I didn't think it was that bad.....Unique 3/32" from the top of the case didn't spill......so far.

[dverna]

Pulled 100 rounds and here are the results:

Target weight was 4.2 gr. of Clean Shot. Average came in at 4.19 gr.

5 came in at 4.3 gr.
83 came in at 4.2 gr.
11 came in at 4.1q gr.
1 came in at 4.0 gr.

No double charge or squibs in spite have having some stumbles loading them.

I must say I am IMPRESSED with the repeatability of the new Lee measure. Granted, Clean Shot is a fine grain powder that should meter well but still...darn good.

Once I reduce the hiccups, and smooth out operation, it should only get better.

GWS, good to see you posting your progress. That looked very smooth. BTW the end of the index rod moves about 1/8" on my press. I assume that is from the clutch disk I mangled. I see yours is centered during the cycle. I am going to check that my rod is not bent. Nice to see the press operating well!!

I feel silly breaking down those 100 rounds but learned the powder measure is outstanding.

[deces]

Lee is developing a new powder-through expander with a "M" feature! It's way worth it not to have bullets tilting after the feeder and going to the feeder in that state.. Hope Lee's successful with that. ('bout time?)



Where did you come about this nugget of info? I would enjoy reading more about this.

[Three44s]

Pulled 100 rounds and here are the results:

.................................

I must say I am IMPRESSED with the repeatability of the new Lee measure. Granted, Clean Shot is a fine grain powder that should meter well but still...darn good!

..........................

I feel silly breaking down those 100 rounds but learned the powder measure is outstanding.


If I doubt the safety of something I always error on the side of caution when the price of being wrong is high as in this case.

I have been following your thread with great interest, like it!

Three44s

[GWS]

Where did you come about this nugget of info? I would enjoy reading more about this.

THR.org specifically on the following thread post 5. https://www.thehighroad.org/index.php?threads/new-lee-inline-bullet-feeder-rotary-magazine-for-spp-pro-6000-beta-testing.913099/

The O.P. LiveLife is in direct communication with Lee......and they are using him as a beta tester....and they are thrilled with his public reviews of the 6000 and the bullet feeder die beta they've supplied him. Look for the new inline bullet feeder die and goodies....and the M expander in January. Read that thread and LiveLife's other thread on the 6000 on that site.

[deces]

Thank you, I enjoyed the thread.

[dverna]

THR.org specifically on the following thread post 5. https://www.thehighroad.org/index.php?threads/new-lee-inline-bullet-feeder-rotary-magazine-for-spp-pro-6000-beta-testing.913099/

The O.P. LiveLife is in direct communication with Lee......and they are using him as a beta tester....and they are thrilled with his public reviews of the 6000 and the bullet feeder die beta they've supplied him. Look for the new inline bullet feeder die and goodies....and the M expander in January. Read that thread and LiveLife's other thread on the 6000 on that site.

GWS....we are all Lee 6000 beta testers...LOL

But if this pans out, it will be worth it!!!

[megasupermagnum]

GWS, that is pretty neat. I am going to try a small vibrator on it like I had on my Spolar shotshell reloader. It will be activated on the downstroke for a second or two.

rbuck, never had a Lee 1000 but two fellows I know had them and gave up on them. Both got 550's. The indexing on the 6000 can be "snappy" and other times not. When it is snappy, I suspect powder will be thrown out of a 9mm case. GWS bought his to load 9mm. He will be able to answer your question. I think I can reduce the snappiness of indexing but at this point it is not affecting loading .38's and I have other bugs I am dealing with.

The press feels solid and hopefully the bugs can be resolved. IMHO, a Dillon user will not be impressed with the 6000.

I have spent at least 10 hours dinking around with the 6000 and it is "not there" yet. I have never needed more than two hours to get any flavor Dillon to produce reloads in quantity. It is apparent Lee did almost no testing before putting the press out and we are essentially "beta testers". Lee is stepping up and helping with free parts and making modifications.

Some people do not know any better, and seem willing to accept lesser performance to save money. There are very few negative comments on the Facebook forum even though some of the videos are painful to watch. It is akin to people who have an ill-tempered dog that needs to be put down but are unable to accept reality.

The press has potential. Someone who thinks they can unbox it and reload 500 rounds the first day needs to buy a Dillon or wait until the bugs on the 6000 are worked out.

Just my opinion.

How are you coming along on the press? When Titan got the latest shipment of the 6 pack in I bought one. I'm not sure what updates they have done on the design in the last few months, but I'm quite happy with mine. I unboxed it yesterday, but didn't have much time to do anything except look at it and read the directions. Today I set it up, took about an hour which included drilling one of my plates for my quick mount bench setup. I was pleasantly surprised to find almost no issues first try on about 75 rounds. The only real issue I had was the case feeder needed some fine tuning on the height. With a penny's thickness gap above the case as I always did on my APP and Pro 1000, I found it would often cause cases to move too far, and some even fell off the slide. I think the problem is a casting mark right were the case hits which I might file off later. I found by reducing the gap to almost nothing it totally fixed it. This was with 327 federal cases, which are rather tall and skinny. The primer system has been flawless, knock on wood. It runs perfect right down to the last 3 or 4 primers in the chute, just as the instructions state. The monumental upgrade for priming on this press in my opinion is the handle and linkage. The handle and linkage on the 6 pack is rock solid. You get a pretty good feel for seating that primer. Indexing has been fine on mine, but I do find that it can jam if you push the case retainers in too far as can happen if one is in front of a cut out in the shell plate. So far mine indexes smooth as silk. All smiles so far.

Tonight or tomorrow I'm going to do the first nonstop 500ish round run of 327 federal. We will see how it really does. After that I'll be running about 500 rounds of 223 Remington, so we will see how it does with swaged primer pockets and taller cases. That won't be for at least 2 weeks though.

[Kenstone]

@megasupermagnum
Thanks for posting. :drinks:
.

[dverna]

How are you coming along on the press? When Titan got the latest shipment of the 6 pack in I bought one. I'm not sure what updates they have done on the design in the last few months, but I'm quite happy with mine. I unboxed it yesterday, but didn't have much time to do anything except look at it and read the directions. Today I set it up, took about an hour which included drilling one of my plates for my quick mount bench setup. I was pleasantly surprised to find almost no issues first try on about 75 rounds. The only real issue I had was the case feeder needed some fine tuning on the height. With a penny's thickness gap above the case as I always did on my APP and Pro 1000, I found it would often cause cases to move too far, and some even fell off the slide. I think the problem is a casting mark right were the case hits which I might file off later. I found by reducing the gap to almost nothing it totally fixed it. This was with 327 federal cases, which are rather tall and skinny. The primer system has been flawless, knock on wood. It runs perfect right down to the last 3 or 4 primers in the chute, just as the instructions state. The monumental upgrade for priming on this press in my opinion is the handle and linkage. The handle and linkage on the 6 pack is rock solid. You get a pretty good feel for seating that primer. Indexing has been fine on mine, but I do find that it can jam if you push the case retainers in too far as can happen if one is in front of a cut out in the shell plate. So far mine indexes smooth as silk. All smiles so far.

Tonight or tomorrow I'm going to do the first nonstop 500ish round run of 327 federal. We will see how it really does. After that I'll be running about 500 rounds of 223 Remington, so we will see how it does with swaged primer pockets and taller cases. That won't be for at least 2 weeks though.

I got the replacement parts and hope to get them installed this week.

Life got in the way. Between trying to sell off over two dozen guns and some medical stuff both my fiancé and I are dealing with, this press has taken a back seat. I am posting this after 3:00 AM so that tells you things could be a bit better right now. LOL

[megasupermagnum]

Yeah, that will do it.

I did my maiden voyage with the 6 pack with good success. The case feeder worked 100% except for a couple upside down cases since I wasn't super careful with the case collator. How much better can you get with what is essentially a $10 funnel? I was loading cleaned brass, and in the press I used in this order: sizing die, empty, expanding and powder, empty, seating die, crimping die. The thing that really stands out to me is how rock solid the press feels. I never loved the Pro 100 handle. The loadmaster handle was ok, but the rest of the press did not have as rock solid as a feel, and I suspect it has to do with the turret, or lack of. I wasn't sure how I would like it, but I have to say I think the quick change bushings are a solid choice for a progressive. Being able to quickly remove a die for something is nice. For example when done, I just pulled out my powder die, and dumped it out, easy as that. Overall I am quite pleased. At 6 stations I finally feel like I have enough to where I can load in one run without having to sacrifice anything. I have a powder check die coming, and Lee just came out with a new bullet feeding die which I think has the potential to really knock it out of the park. I certainly wouldn't mind a 7th station to expand and powder separately, but as long as I can buy powder-through expanders, things are great.

Not to sound like all rainbows and sunshine, there are some things that can be improved on the press, and I will be sending these ideas to Lee. I don't have a problem with the case holders, but they also don't really offer anything over just rotating the plate to an open spot like a Pro1000. They are so stiff it's hard to use them one handed, but I don't want to loosen them either. I think they would be dramatically better if they were simply spring loaded. The spring would both hold the case in the shell plate better, and be easier to remove the case. I wouldn't even change the arm, just drill a hole for a torsion type spring arm and put it on. The priming I'm sure is what most people are interested in, and yesterday it worked really well. I do have my concerns with crimped brass. I had four primer malfunctions, two were my fault, two I can say were the presses fault. My faults were I didn't seat one fully, and the other I was messing with the shell plate when I dropped a bullet and was trying to re-index, and I think I knocked the primer off of the ram when it was just high enough. I did have two malfunctions that were not my fault. Once the primer didn't feel like it was seating right, I lifted, tried again. It ended up seating but did not look right. The second time was similar, but this time it tried to seat it sideways. After looking at it I think the problem is when you lower the ram, which pushes the primer seating punch up there is nothing to support the primer for a small period when the primer punch clears the carrier, but the primer hasn't quite reached the case to be seated. If anything happens during this period it is possible for the primer to move or even fall right off of the punch. I believe what was happening is the primer wasn't perfectly centered which I felt, I backed off, then tried seating it without it being centered. Even worse is if you back off with the primer off center of the punch, it can flip sideways on the way down. I worry that this problem will be even worse with crimped pockets which often are squared off on the entrance so the primer has to be started nearly perfect. I've been trying to think of a good solution but I haven't come up with anything yet. A key difference between this and a Dillon is that a Dillon delivers the primer under the ram. They use a spring loaded sleeve to center the primer. This 6 pack press delivers the primer over the ram, and under the shell plate, there is no way to use a sleeve that I can see. The only thing I can see is that Lee should change the cut out of the shell plate such that it can serve to guide the primer. I'm going to look at it some more later and see if I'm missing anything. I love the idea of the priming system. Trays are the only way forward for a progressive press, and there is nothing wrong with the chute. If primers can slide down it, it will work. It seems to work just fine until the last 3 or 4 primers, The pickup arm was flawless, never an issue.

[deces]

GWS, good to see you posting your progress. That looked very smooth. BTW the end of the index rod moves about 1/8" on my press. I assume that is from the clutch disk I mangled. I see yours is centered during the cycle. I am going to check that my rod is not bent. Nice to see the press operating well!!



After looking at my press I have noticed that my indexing pin is different than that of GSW's press and there is a noticeable wobble in the lower portion of the indexing rod. I think I have discovered the cause of this, on the upper part of the rod that nests in the die station, it seems like they cut it short away from where the die is and as a result it contorts as the carrier rotates, rather than being fixed in position.

This would be a simple fix with a welder and a bastard file or a grain of rice.

[dverna]

After looking at my press I have noticed that my indexing pin is different than that of GSW's press and there is a noticeable wobble in the lower portion of the indexing rod. I think I have discovered the cause of this, on the upper part of the rod that nests in the die station, it seems like they cut it short away from where the die is and as a result it contorts as the carrier rotates, rather than being fixed in position.

This would be a simple fix with a welder and a bastard file or a grain of rice.

Thanks for posting that. I have had life deal me a few issues but hope to get back to wringing this press out this week. I really want this to work and I am encouraged that some folks are having good success with theirs.

I have had enough hands-on time (shall I say too much fiddling time) with it to conclude it will never be a Dillon. Can it made to run? Definitely. Can it be reliable? I doubt it. The question is just how reliable does it need to be. Not everyone can justify a 750 and it is even more difficult to justify a 1050.

I used to shoot a lot and had little patience with stuff that needed tweaking or had a hiccup if there was a bit of dirt. I wanted to be able to run 2000 rounds in a sitting without any "issues". Dillons do that. At least the 1050's will.

Expecting a $300 progressive press to do that is unfair. I do not "need" that kind of reliability now that I shoot less. Most reloaders do not "need" that either. I am keeping that in the forefront of this evaluation.

When I decided to try the 6000, I thought it would be acceptable to deprime off the press. Crude is the Achilles heel of most progressives. I hope not to resort to that. So far, powder drops into an unprimed case have caused the majority of my problems.

[GWS]

Gentlemen,
I started listening to LiveLife on THR a little better, actually studying his many findings, and things started working better for me. First thing I discovered was that you need to have the shell plate all the way down, before you try to insert the indexing pin.....and then secure it with a die on top so it doesn't decide to lift when you start a stroke.

I still don't care for the primer system leaving the last three primers in limbo.....so I tried printing a new chute for that reason and because I wanted to print an LED lighting addition which interfered with Lee's primer chute. It took three tries but I've improved it to where it only leaves ONE primer unfed.

The other big change was to add a new version of TylerR's quick-change he created for the APP.

All that is working great now.....and I'm feeding both bullets and cases viva electric collators. Really beginning to like the 6000. The last test was to test the 9mm collator plate and quick-change having replaced the .223 shell plate, the quick-change downtube insert, and collator plate.....maybe a 6 minute effort.

Here's the resulting video.....now it's all ready to load 9mm......223 worked great.


https://youtu.be/aOZ65zvXbJg
You noticed the two feed fails in the video, but keep in mind that I was short-stroking the whole test....I thought it did pretty good in spite of the impatient nut at the press lever....;) Pretty effective test in spite of that.

The printed primer chute needs some smoothing with fine sandpaper is all, and if you know where to get it printed with a resin printer it would eliminate that. Here's a picture of how the design changed:

https://i.postimg.cc/brtfj2D0/Primer_Chute.jpg

The 2 reasons for it was to "S" it away from my LED holder and also to reduce the flat where the last three primers lie and won't finish the feed......not totally successful with that part, but better....it only leaves one unfed now.

I also wanted more to drop into the chute per flick....so I made it a lot longer. That didn't hurt anything either!

[rbuck351]

Priming off the press is a non starter for me. I can make almost anything work if I want to put enough effort into it. I have three of the early Lee Pro 1000 presses and have managed to make them work but you have to watch the primer feed constantly as 1 small bit of powder in the primer slide will mess things up. The short cases (9mm and such) like to throw powder on the primer slide as does the powder spitter (Lee's powder thrower). Lee's priming systems are the worst I have ever seen. I don't need another progressive as I have a Star a Dillon Square Deal and a 550b as well as the 3 Pro 1000. I am watching this thread to see if Lee is learning how to make a press that works properly out of the box. The Star and the two Dillons both have primer systems that work about 99.8%. Why continue to use a new system that seems to be real problem? I haven't looked at the 6000 primer system. Does it use a primer tube or some form of the primer slide system? Why are there unprimed cases? I does happen on my 550b once or twice in a thousand as a primer jumps out of the primer slide as the slide is being pushed up to prime. However the spilled powder has no effect on the operation of the press.

Does the 6000 have the powder dispenser directly over the priming station?

[GWS]

Priming off the press is a non starter for me. I can make almost anything work if I want to put enough effort into it. I have three of the early Lee Pro 1000 presses and have managed to make them work but you have to watch the primer feed constantly as 1 small bit of powder in the primer slide will mess things up. The short cases (9mm and such) like to throw powder on the primer slide as does the powder spitter (Lee's powder thrower). Lee's priming systems are the worst I have ever seen. I don't need another progressive as I have a Star a Dillon Square Deal and a 550b as well as the 3 Pro 1000. I am watching this thread to see if Lee is learning how to make a press that works properly out of the box. The Star and the two Dillons both have primer systems that work about 99.8%. Why continue to use a new system that seems to be real problem? I haven't looked at the 6000 primer system. Does it use a primer tube or some form of the primer slide system? Why are there unprimed cases? I does happen on my 550b once or twice in a thousand as a primer jumps out of the primer slide as the slide is being pushed up to prime. However the spilled powder has no effect on the operation of the press.

Does the 6000 have the powder dispenser directly over the priming station?

The primer system that Lee rejected years ago was primer tubes....I still remember the shock of hearing of loaders really getting hurt with blown up tubes.(early 1970's) Then companies started putting shields over the tubes to reduce the risk. Richard Lee went further....he refused to use tubes, inventing trays. They are a mixed blessing....safer, but not as reliable feeding.....they still aren't perfect....but neither are tube systems. The version used with Lee's 6000 is a little different, but still has to be shaken to get it to empty....and the last three won't even shake to the primer slide.

Mine that I offset to allow my LED lights, has no flat spot at the end....so it feeds all but the last one. Betting Lee changes theirs similarly....not the "S" shape but removing the flat....doing so doesn't hurt anything.

Typically, yes the powder measure is on station 2 above the primer insert rod. You can move it to 3, but then you are back to what a five station press can do. I have not had problems feeding primers, but for military brass not properly swaged, there would be more chance for problems.

I don't deprime on anything but my Lee APP. I do that then wet tumble......I just prefer that....you don't have to. So then here's what I do ........

Typical for pistol: After depriming and tumbling, 1-Case Feed & Size; 2-Prime, then Powder Charge and "M" Expand (powder-thru expander); 3-Powder Check (lockout die); 4-Bullet Feed; 5-Seat; 6-Crimp.

Typical for rifle: After depriming and tumbling, I size a batch separately, on another press....then trim..... Then on the progressive: 1-Case feed and expand with "M" Expander die; 2-Prime, then Powder Charge; 3-powder check; 4-Bullet Feed; 5-Seat; 6-Crimp.

[rbuck351]

I've been loading for 60 years and have only blown one primer on a press. That was on a Lee pro 1000. It shattered the primer slide and the primer tray. Apparently a primer stopped half way onto the primer punch and was crunched while trying to seat it. I'm not sure how you could blow a primer on a Dillon 550b.

The Lee primer slide system makes me real nervous.

[dverna]

I've been loading for 60 years and have only blown one primer on a press. That was on a Lee pro 1000. It shattered the primer slide and the primer tray. Apparently a primer stopped half way onto the primer punch and was crunched while trying to seat it. I'm not sure how you could blow a primer on a Dillon 550b.

The Lee primer slide system makes me real nervous.

I have reloaded about 500k rounds and most of those on progressives (obviously) and like you have not had an "oops" yet. But I know one guy who has blown the tubes on a Dillon 1050 twice.

He admitted he runs "slam bang" speed as he shoots a lot and quantity is important to him. I have never reached the production rates others can get and I plod along at my speed.

One reason I am not a fan of the Lee priming system is due to the lack of protection if there is an "oops". Then again, I have the same concerns with my shotgun progressive. The PW 800+ has the primer track right in front of you and there is a 300 primer tray at the top at head height.

One thing about the Lee 6000 is the primer slide moves the primers a fair distance from where the primer tray sits. Seems nearly impossible to have a primer jam in the shuttle so the "oops" will occur will seating the primer and that distance will help minimize a detonation getting to the tray.

[rbuck351]

I don't shoot that much either and only make a run of 300 to 500 handgun rounds per secession. This usually takes an hour to 1 1/2 hrs. It takes even longer if using one of the Lee 1000s as I watch everything very closely after having the one oops. I'm not sure how many primers blew with my oops as it sent pieces of the slide, the primer tray and primers all over the bench.

[deces]

Apparently Lee has made a revision of the primer chute.
https://youtu.be/c31-DVAmWvM

[GWS]

Too little IMO. It still has the bottom flat spot that refuses to feed the last three.....heck I don't like the last ONE which my mod with the offset still can't take care of. Yes you can load three extra....but that's not a fix. Primers are the hardest nuts to crack....and nobody has a 100% safe and efficient on press primer. RCBS came close with their strips, but strips are a PIA in their own way.

As for the rod, whatever size it is, it sure isn't a 100%er either.....whatever the size. I didn't even add a rod to my offset one.....once I load a tray, I just flick it good with my finger before I start and it works better than theirs. I think it's because I made the feed tube a lot longer so the flick pretty much empties the tray before I even start stroking the press....there are many more in the tube. If the tray has a whole box of primers, then I flick it again every 10 or so strokes.....and they feed.....except for the last one......working on that problem.

There's got to be a better way that's still safe. I just haven't found it yet....Lee neither.;)

The worst problem I see with the fat rod method is that the column works back and forth and does not stay down tight against the shuttle housing.

[deces]

I recently had surgery and will have plenty of time to run my press through it's paces. One thing that I have noticed on this press is that the universal case feeder really does not like 7.62x39 ceases. they are just small enough to jamb up the rotating disk. A simple fix for this is a rubber cork like plug and everything is operating normal.

[megasupermagnum]

I recently had surgery and will have plenty of time to run my press through it's paces. One thing that I have noticed on this press is that the universal case feeder really does not like 7.62x39 ceases. they are just small enough to jamb up the rotating disk. A simple fix for this is a rubber cork like plug and everything is operating normal.

What rotating disc are you referring to? My feeder works fine with 223 and 308, although the collator doesn't.

[deces]

What rotating disc are you referring to? My feeder works fine with 223 and 308, although the collator doesn't.

That would be the rotating drum on the case feeder. M43 boolits are to big for the small port and with the wedge out on the large side, they barely get hung up on the small port enough to jam up the rotating drum. Lee should revise the universal case feeder so that the 1 wedge can be inserted on either side of the drum, rather than just the large port. Hey maybe then people would be less prone to losing the wedge too.

[deces]

Today I received the updated parts for the
Pro 6k, I am debating if I will parkerize the new priming pin and holders, I might try doing a batch of shell holders & plates as well.
One thing I would really like on this press is a KMS UFO type light, I can see them having fun trying to design one right now.

[megasupermagnum]

That would be the rotating drum on the case feeder. M43 boolits are to big for the small port and with the wedge out on the large side, they barely get hung up on the small port enough to jam up the rotating drum. Lee should revise the universal case feeder so that the 1 wedge can be inserted on either side of the drum, rather than just the large port. Hey maybe then people would be less prone to losing the wedge too.

I see what you are saying now. I'm still running an older set which isn't as you describe. I dug out my Lee APP parts, and sure enough that case feeder has both large and small holes on one head. The older set came with three heads, one large, one small, and one for rifle. I can't tell if Lee doesn't make those style feeders anymore or not, but it does appear Ballistic Products has the "rifle" one in stock. It works really well.

https://www.ballisticproducts.com/Lee-Pro-Case-Feeder-Rifle/productinfo/LEE95663/

[deces]

Copied from Lee's tech page about setting up dies on the Pro4k, This should apply to the Pro6k in reducing torsion on the carrier and some said variances in ammo people have noticed.

On the Auto Breech Lock Pro, rotation of the shell plate is in the
clockwise direction. So the order of the dies are sizing at position one
where the case first enters the shell plate, then the powder die to the
left of the sizing die (position 2), then the seating die (3) and
finally the crimp die at station 4.

A progressive press has a rotating shell plate with multiple shell slots. If the sizing die is
installed just to contact with the shell plate, cartridge overall length
(COL) can vary with the number of cases on the shell plate. With a full
shell plate, COL will tend to be longer because the increased pressure on
the plate from dies pushing on 4 cases/cartridges keeps the plate from
rising as high as it would with just one case on the shell plate.
Installing the sizing die 1/3 turn (.024" deeper if you do the math)
past contact with the shell plate, eliminates this COL variation because
the shell plate stops on the sizing die not when the press mechanism
hits the built in stops in the linkage.

If you are using a crimp die in the fourth position, then you will want to set up the seating die
to seat the bullet only without crimping. The quick and easy way to do
this is to have a sized and expanded case in position 3 on the shell
plate, Hold the press lever down as far as it will go with one hand and
turn the seating die down over the case with your other hand until the
die stops. The die will stop when it contacts the case mouth. Now back
the die away from the case 1/4 turn and lock the die down. The bullet
seating adjustment screw at the top of the seating die can then be used
to establish the desired bullet seating depth (COL).

If you have the carbide factory crimp die for a pistol caliber the die should be
installed to contact with the shell plate. The the crimp is adjusted by
means of the adjustment screw at the top of the die. Begin by backing
the screw out until threads show. To acquire the start position for the
adjustment screw raise a cartridge that has not been crimped into the
crimp die. Hold the press lever down as far as it will go with one hand
and with the other hand turn the adjustment screw into the die (toward
the shell plate) until the screw stops. Lower the cartridge 1/4 inch and
turn the adjustment screw into the die 1/2 turn. Push down on the press
lever to crimp the cartridge. If a heavier crimp is desired turn the
screw toward the shell plate. For a lighter crimp back the screw away.

If you are using a collet style crimp die then here is how to set it up.
Hold the press lever down as far as it will go with one hand and turn
the die into the press with your other hand until the die makes firm
contact with the shell plate. lower the shell plate 1/4 inch and turn
the die into the press (toward the shell plate) 1/2 turn. This will
yield a moderate crimp. For a heavier crimp adjust the die toward the
shell plate. For a lighter crimp back the die away from the shell plate a
little.

https://support.leeprecision.net/en/knowledgebase/article/die-adjustment-on-auto-breech-lock-pro-and-pro-4000-kits

[Finster101]

Just got an email from KMS2. They have an LED kit available for the 6000 now if anyone is interested.

[deces]

Thanks for the update, that looks like it will do just fine. I would instead use shrink wrap over the power cord up to the tool head though.

[deces]

Today I have been doing some parkerizing, not everything I wanted to do but I got the Pro6k priming pin parked as well as two of the original short breech bushing that would always get rusted.
I also made some tweeks the indexing system after I found a half split drive/clutch. No more forcible tilt on the shell plate when down and it is fairly quiet now.
I ordered a KMS2 light kit, that will be here in a week.
A couple other things are in the progress, that I'll comment on later.

[deces]

I got the KMS2 light the other day, while a nice inclusion, I did not use the included TPU wire harness mounts. I did use a piece from the Harbor freight 5pk shrink wrap the pillar instead. The light is very bright, I am still debating if I need a powder check.

I did manage to crush the goldish spring while reloading some .223. I did notice that the metal primer carrier tipped up over the plastic slide pusher and caused it to jam. Since then I have parkerized the small & large primer carriers, I also made them super slick with some molybdenum powder.

More testing is needed.

[Lloyd Smale]

This press is sounding more and more like a six hole Pro 1000, as I had the same exact problems with the case feeder on them. At one time I had four of them running for different calibers because once you get one set and running smooth, you dare not touch it.

id expect nothing more from lee. only thing worse would be spending 1050 money on that new lyman from the company with the worse customer service in the industry. at least when the lee breaks they will take care of it.

[megasupermagnum]

I did a big run with my 6000 today and 223 which I've been procrastinating. As expected crimped brass is not nearly as smooth as non-crimped brass as far as priming. They were well swaged, but they still aren't nice and radiused like a fresh pocket. Most went in like silk, but often I had to kind of double dip to get the primer to self center. A couple of times I had a primer that just didn't want to go in. This is no fault of the press, just one of the headaches of dealing with Lake City brass. As far as feeding the primers the press was at least as good as last time. I did have one powder spill due to a problem with my charging die, and that caused some issues. One great thing about the 6000 is how easy the shell plate removes. I blew out the powder and all was well. Case feeding with 223 was fine. I had 2 or 3 out of 450 tip over. Twice I had them not go into the shell plate straight. I can probably get it dialed in better, but I think you will just have to accept a couple of mishaps like that with tall and skinny cases with this case feeder. Short and fat like 45 acp runs like butter. I know in another thread some had talked about bullet seating issues. I've had no such issues. I never measured a cartridge (with bullet comparator) that varied more than .001" in seating depth. Honestly the biggest issue I had was with my double alpha powder checker which I'm hoping I just had setup wrong. It seemed the rod sometimes sank into the powder more, so I was too often getting false alarms.

Again, is the Lee Pro 6000 a Dillon 1050 or 750? No, of course not. A 750 costs $740+$300 case feeder, call it $1000. A 1050 is $2500. Of course my $240 Lee isn't going to be as good. I'll take this Lee 6000 over a Dillon 550 or SDB anyday though, and it's definitely the best progressive Lee has made to date.

[deces]

Well said. I'm sure in short time Lee will continue to fix any of the pro 6k shortcomings since this is their primer press, now that the load master is discontinued.

Honestly the biggest issue I had was with my double alpha powder checker which I'm hoping I just had setup wrong. It seemed the rod sometimes sank into the powder more, so I was too often getting false alarms.

Is that the older Alpha powder checker with the sensitivity adjustment switch or the new one that is void of the old feature?

[megasupermagnum]

The new style.

[dverna]

Well, you guys shamed me into working on the 6000 today. Been busy selling guns and dealing with some physical issues. Plus, the weather has been so bad it seemed pointless to reload.

First I installed all the new bits and pieces. Loaded 250 rounds of .38 Spl.

Cannot get the case feeder to function well. About 2-3% FTF. Most of the time due to an upside down case.
Primer system is much better but not there yet. 8 unprimed cases but mostly my fault. It was working well for about 200 rounds and I stopped looking at it every cycle. It bit me. I have a vibrator I am going to install. See link below.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B093FJZZ59/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

COAL is consistent and powder drops are excellent.

The mickey mouse case feeder should be an easy fix. The primer system should work. I have not given up on it.

BTW, part of the issue with the primer feed is caused by the case feeder. If a case is not at the priming station, the primer sits on the primer punch waiting for the next case. I found three primers under the shell plate when I started having problems with the press not cycling smoothly. Press is mounted well so the primers should not be falling off due to vibration while loading. I suspect the primer shuttle might be doing it but cannot be sure.

Next run I will make sure to always have a case at the priming station. If I get a FTF from the case feeder I will rectify it. I may go back to manually filling the case feeder tubes instead of using the gizmo on top of the tubes.

[deces]

Don, if you can I would highly recommend getting this kit printed up at a library or university. Also the "New Design American Accurate Collator" is a much better funnel than the cheapo red one.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5380589

[dverna]

Thanks deces. Living in the middle of nowhere has a few minor downsides. Not sure where I could get anything 3D printed around me.

If I can get the press to run with cases feeding properly, I will buy a case feeder on eBay. They are going for less than $200. Not worth spending double that for a printer and my time to learn how to use it.

[deces]

I agree, those kits on ebay are outrageous in price. There are a number of places that will print anything for you if you upload the .stl file, but you might want to change the file name if it's ammo or firearm related, they might deny it. I think my case feeder cost a bit over $20 printed at the university and the hardware. That funnel has been great at properly aligning 7.62x39 & .223 brass for me, it now comes with a SS insert for pistol brass, I have yet to try that though.
This one is from china, pretty cheap. Even UPS does 3D printing now.
https://jlcpcb.com/3d-printing

[GWS]

I'm sure they are not for everyone, but I've found my 3D printer was the best reloading investment I've made since buying my first Pro 2000 progressive at the beginning of Obama bin Biden. 4 electric Collators, many plates for them, 5 bullet feeder dies, APP and 6000 case feeding improvements, and on an on. Worth every penny for me. I have a Creality CR-10v2 that cost me $500, no longer made....got them for the 300x300x400mm bed size. But $200 Ender 3's are big enough for collators for pistol or small rifle cases, and all bullets.

People have been talking off and on about moving the powder measure to station 3 on the Lee 6000 for one reason or another....but that turns it into a 5 station press in effect.....so I got a wild hare and thought I'd see if by using a seater die with a window (thus far only made for rifle, but that could change) whether it would be possible to 3D print a coupler to feed and seat in the same station saving the station lost by moving the powder die to 3.

I'm 74, with Cad experience designing architecture not 3D and had to unlearn more than learn with the free DesignSpark Mechanical 3D software. So if this old guy can learn it fast so can you guys. I really think DesignSpark is easier to learn for people with no cad experience than for professionals. https://www.rs-online.com/designspark/mechanical-download-and-installation

And tutorials are all over the web....

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4rQJgyH93eY

So.....

https://i.postimg.cc/mg1npVY3/FeedNSeat_Rifle.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/65mShFv5/Screenshot_2023-04-07_223031.jpg

First test shows some tweaks needed, but prints are cheap (this set maybe $3) but if perfected may be worthwhile for rifle. Should work for anything up to .308.

https://youtu.be/kagdqZbr4RI

I made a rifle shaker addon for Lee's Universal collator before I printed the electric collators (it works equally well for .223 and .308)....


https://youtu.be/y1R2xrQFSbc

skip the "how to" go to about 4:30 in the vid.

.stl files are on CastBoolits in the 3Dprint section for anybody interested. Will add the feedNseat .stls when it's perfected.

[megasupermagnum]

Why move powder to station 3?

[deces]

That is pretty neat, I enjoy seeing the things you come up with here. I've been kicking around an idea in my mind to make a projectile collator shaker, a simple yet adjustable two piece design for different sized boolits. Where they are shaken to the outside of the dish into the adjustable sloped gate, rather than like with brass and then travel back to the center into the rotating drum tubes, like with Lee's new system. I guess it would need to be about 5" tall to do all this.

[GWS]

Why move powder to station 3?

It appears some 6000 press users find ways to spill powder everywhere trying to both prime and charge in station 2.....but I use a Uniflow instead of Lee's P.M. there, so maybe that makes the difference......but honestly I don't know. Seems to be a re-occuring theme over at THR.

I use a Uniflow because I have extras and I bought the 6000 without.

I did get the feedNseat to work better......redesigned just a tad. Plus, I had to fill a groove that caught and hung bullets on the slider inside the RCBS Gold Medal Seater....a little epoxy fixed that. RCBS had placed their caliber label in that groove to I filled it with clear epoxy, so I could still seat what caliber it was made for. (dumb place to put engraving IMO) I also made the ramp smaller around.

The reason I want to feed and seat in one station is because I want to size in 1, "M" die expand/prime in 2, Charge in 3, Powder cop in 4, feed and seat bullets in 5. Taper crimp in 6. That's the plan for .223 rifle at least.

[Finster101]

Very nice of you guys to do Lee's R&D for them.

[GWS]

Very nice of you guys to do Lee's R&D for them.

Actually, my target is fellow reloaders not Lee. Their arrogance will insure they will never use any part of my meager efforts....TylerR's bullet feed die is another matter....they did copy that, except they replaced his external springs with one internal one. The steel body used IS a boon for reloaders at least. If they develop a metal feed and seat coupler....most likely won't happen....but I'd be all for it......idea given freely.

[megasupermagnum]

It appears some 6000 press users find ways to spill powder everywhere trying to both prime and charge in station 2.....but I use a Uniflow instead of Lee's P.M. there, so maybe that makes the difference......but honestly I don't know. Seems to be a re-occuring theme over at THR.

I use a Uniflow because I have extras and I bought the 6000 without.

I did get the feedNseat to work better......redesigned just a tad. Plus, I had to fill a groove that caught and hung bullets on the slider inside the RCBS Gold Medal Seater....a little epoxy fixed that. RCBS had placed their caliber label in that groove to I filled it with clear epoxy, so I could still seat what caliber it was made for. (dumb place to put engraving IMO) I also made the ramp smaller around.

The reason I want to feed and seat in one station is because I want to size in 1, "M" die expand/prime in 2, Charge in 3, Powder cop in 4, feed and seat bullets in 5. Taper crimp in 6. That's the plan for .223 rifle at least.

I guess I don't understand how they are spilling powder. I'm using a Lee auto drum powder measure on mine, and the only powder I've spilled has been my fault. As I mentioned earlier, I was using a homemade charging plug for 223, and I had one get in there crooked which spilled powder. Other than that, I don't understand how one could possibly leak powder when most plugs go inside the case neck. The powder measure goes inside the plug. The measure charges when you raise the case, not lower it, so there's no chance of anything happening there. Whatever, I guess some people can screw up anything.

I think you have a good plan going. Are you using one of those special sizing dies for 223 that you don't need to trim cases? I don't want to talk you out of your project, but is there any reason you don't want to use the NOE powder through expander plugs to expand, charge, and prime all in station 2?

[megasupermagnum]

Very nice of you guys to do Lee's R&D for them.

We tried for Dillon, but they don't care what we have to say. Dillon would rather remain in 1970 as a turnkey option riding on great customer support. Good for them. Lee listens to what we want. I'm hoping the new Lee expander plugs soon to be released will be similar to the drawing I sent them.

[GWS]

I guess I don't understand how they are spilling powder. I'm using a Lee auto drum powder measure on mine, and the only powder I've spilled has been my fault. As I mentioned earlier, I was using a homemade charging plug for 223, and I had one get in there crooked which spilled powder. Other than that, I don't understand how one could possibly leak powder when most plugs go inside the case neck. The powder measure goes inside the plug. The measure charges when you raise the case, not lower it, so there's no chance of anything happening there. Whatever, I guess some people can screw up anything.

I think you have a good plan going. Are you using one of those special sizing dies for 223 that you don't need to trim cases? I don't want to talk you out of your project, but is there any reason you don't want to use the NOE powder through expander plugs to expand, charge, and prime all in station 2?

Yes screw-ups are everywhere. Kinda like those early adopters who bought and screwed up RCBS's new 7 station progressive.....mine works great.;)

In my case, I had bought RCBS's "tube RIFLE bullet feeder systems for .223 and .308 for that Pro Chucker 7 press....since they didn't make an electric bullet feeder. They are over $100 a piece and include an "M" die that expands RIFLE case necks with the famous "M" shelf, but for RIFLE...which Lyman invented and DAA and Noe also copied, for Lee's powder-thru dies for PISTOL. But they, like Lyman, made these PTX's to expand after charging. The purpose of both regular "M"dies and the "M" PTX's, are to make cases stick nice and straight on the progressive while rotating to the seater. Properly adjusted they all work really well.

For "M" shelf PTX's, RCBS and Mr. Bullet Feeder made those powder-through PISTOL "M" dies for the RCBS Pro 2000 and Dillon 650s respectively. But for RIFLE loading, RCBS's new press with lots of stations, allowed room for an "M" neck sizer to be used just before the powder drop.

Fast forward to now, Lee's new 6 station press was one station short to do the same thing I do on the Pro Chucker 7. So I decided to see if a feed and seat station could give Lee users the same capability. Which is to keep cases and bullets moving fast without hands and no bullets falling over and causing interruption. For rifle loading, the tiny mouths make the PTX, powder-through expander method less than reliable.

[megasupermagnum]

Yeah, and it seems the tiny necks don't work that great with my powder checker either. The good thing there is the difference between a filled and empty case is dramatic, there would be no mistaking an empty case. Zero chance of double charges with regular loads. What I did for a charging die was to take an NOE plug for a 44 caliber, drilled it through for powder, then on the bottom I drilled it to just under the shoulder diameter, I forget the size. I then drilled the center just over neck size. So it actuated off the case shoulder. It worked really well, right up until a case neck got in there crooked. I'm going to drill the neck portion even bigger, and/or chamfer it heavily. If I place an order with NOE, I'll try their powder through expanders. I've not tried them yet.

[deces]

The folks at Lee Precision must of hired one of those psychics that you see on TV that solve murder mysteries for the police and read our minds. It looks like they will now be offering a much larger brass collection bin, to go along with their presses. I like that it differs from the Akro bins, in that all edges run up the entire length of the container without having to tuck in a business card or one of those $5 gates that Inline Fabrication sells.
Thanks Lee.
https://leeprecision.com/plastic-storage-bins-hanging-containers-6-pack

[truckjohn]

I actually loved my Pro1000 EXCEPT for the fact that it would fail to charge cartridges once in a while and I had no way to find out until I pulled the trigger and got fizzle instead of bang. I got so tired of carrying a rod and a hammer to the range to knock bullets out of my 1911's barrel that I finally gave up after about 2,000 rounds and threw it out. I wished for a 4-station unit with a powder check die, but it was not to be.

My next progressive will probably be a Dillon.

[deces]

Out of curiosity, what powder dropper were you using?

[GWS]

Yeah, and it seems the tiny necks don't work that great with my powder checker either. The good thing there is the difference between a filled and empty case is dramatic, there would be no mistaking an empty case. Zero chance of double charges with regular loads. What I did for a charging die was to take an NOE plug for a 44 caliber, drilled it through for powder, then on the bottom I drilled it to just under the shoulder diameter, I forget the size. I then drilled the center just over neck size. So it actuated off the case shoulder. It worked really well, right up until a case neck got in there crooked. I'm going to drill the neck portion even bigger, and/or chamfer it heavily. If I place an order with NOE, I'll try their powder through expanders. I've not tried them yet.

Sorry I'm slow replying, but I've been testing my FeedNSeat in .223, and tomorrow the .308 version will be ready to test. I think the NOE ptx's will be perfectly adequate for pistol, unfortunately nobody makes windowed seaters for pistols.....wish they did. :)

With the Lee 6000 they made a ledge with bolt holes on the left side of the sub shellplate, which made it simple to make the FeedNSeat idea work on them. Short video below shows how that works for the .223 rifle FeedNSeat:


https://youtu.be/daXhMZQePDs

Sorry for the cartridge wobble....I used the 9mm shell plate to save time, being already setup. Same with both videos.

Next video shows how it spits them out pretty efficiently, using RCBS rifle bullet feeder die, and RCBS Gold medal Seater with a window.
The plan for both .223 and .308 is to 1. Seat, 2. prime and expand neck with an "M" shelf, 3. charge with powder, 4. powder cop, 5. FeedNSeat, 6 tapercrimp.


https://youtu.be/1LTlFB4DEeQ

Now, if Lee would make new pistol seaters with above the press bullet insert windows, like several already do for rifle, I'd do the same thing with pistol, except pistol could use the powder through powder die with "M" step and could do it on any 5 station press.......that would be awesome. Of course mounting the vertical pushing part would have to be modified for each press.

[deces]

Looking from the top down in your last video, now I get it. That is pretty neat I must say.

[jetinteriorguy]

Sorry I'm slow replying, but I've been testing my FeedNSeat in .223, and tomorrow the .308 version will be ready to test. I think the NOE ptx's will be perfectly adequate for pistol, unfortunately nobody makes windowed seaters for pistols.....wish they did. :)

With the Lee 6000 they made a ledge with bolt holes on the left side of the sub shellplate, which made it simple to make the FeedNSeat idea work on them. Short video below shows how that works for the .223 rifle FeedNSeat:


https://youtu.be/daXhMZQePDs

Sorry for the cartridge wobble....I used the 9mm shell plate to save time, being already setup. Same with both videos.

Next video shows how it spits them out pretty efficiently, using RCBS rifle bullet feeder die, and RCBS Gold medal Seater with a window.
The plan for both .223 and .308 is to 1. Seat, 2. prime and expand neck with an "M" shelf, 3. charge with powder, 4. powder cop, 5. FeedNSeat, 6 tapercrimp.


https://youtu.be/1LTlFB4DEeQ

Now, if Lee would make new pistol seaters with above the press bullet insert windows, like several already do for rifle, I'd do the same thing with pistol, except pistol could use the powder through powder die with "M" step and could do it on any 5 station press.......that would be awesome. Of course mounting the vertical pushing part would have to be modified for each press.

That is pretty darn cool. Well done.

[deces]

Sorry I'm slow replying, but I've been testing my FeedNSeat in .223, and tomorrow the .308 version will be ready to test. I think the NOE ptx's will be perfectly adequate for pistol, unfortunately nobody makes windowed seaters for pistols.....wish they did. :)

With the Lee 6000 they made a ledge with bolt holes on the left side of the sub shellplate, which made it simple to make the FeedNSeat idea work on them. Short video below shows how that works for the .223 rifle FeedNSeat:


https://youtu.be/daXhMZQePDs

Sorry for the cartridge wobble....I used the 9mm shell plate to save time, being already setup. Same with both videos.

Next video shows how it spits them out pretty efficiently, using RCBS rifle bullet feeder die, and RCBS Gold medal Seater with a window.
The plan for both .223 and .308 is to 1. Seat, 2. prime and expand neck with an "M" shelf, 3. charge with powder, 4. powder cop, 5. FeedNSeat, 6 tapercrimp.


https://youtu.be/1LTlFB4DEeQ

Now, if Lee would make new pistol seaters with above the press bullet insert windows, like several already do for rifle, I'd do the same thing with pistol, except pistol could use the powder through powder die with "M" step and could do it on any 5 station press.......that would be awesome. Of course mounting the vertical pushing part would have to be modified for each press.

Where can we find your STL? I'd like to give this a try.

[GWS]

Afraid that's several .stls. You could combine them into one, but the file size is harder to share by .zip, too big. Attaching the .223 size files. In process of zipping the .308 size.....if you want them, let me know.

Here's a picture of the 4 parts and how they combine: (3 machine screws holding the blue part on and holding up the pusher are 6-32, and they self-thread just fine in PLA. The bigger screws you'll have to just drop in through the holes in the press subplate, and use nuts.)

https://i.postimg.cc/mg1npVY3/Feed-NSeat-Rifle.jpg

[deces]

Thanks GWS, I'll be trying this with the Frankford Arsenal universal seating die first, when I get the parts made up.

[GWS]

The RCBS die has a "gate" that blocks the bullet from falling. It is raised and the bullet falls into the case by the case rising. Don't know how the FA die works, but probably similar. One caveat with the "gate" is a recessed ring RCBS made to insert their logo and caliber embossing.......I filled that first, with clear fast setting epoxy, so the bullet doesn't hang on the inset's ridges.

[GWS]

I posted a video in THR of how the .308 version turned out......all the .stl's are there too.

https://www.thehighroad.org/index.php?threads/feednseat-in-one-save-a-station.917972/#post-12630453

[Kenstone]

OK, looks like this thread has become all things Six Pack so...
Looks like Lee now offers a "Soft Twist" index rod for the Six Pack to minimize shell plate snapage and powder spillage of short cases :
https://www.leeprecision.com/six-pack-pro-soft-twist-index-rod

And I found this 3D printed gate for the case feeder:

https://www.etsy.com/listing/1449561694/lee-pro-6000-six-pack-cartridge-feed?click_key=32e82a6829e87d7872aa1a262f19be1e8a2 d0148%3A1449561694&click_sum=0fa9190c&ref=shop_home_active_1&sca=1&sts=1
.

[deces]

Well, I got one of these new slow twist rods from Lee and I don't think it's going to be a popular item, not for .223 anyway. I have been testing a few different accessories for this press and I have found that with this new rod & the DAA powder check, it causes empty brass to bind up on the inside of the powder check probe on .223 cases mid-length on the down stroke (not good). The original rod is fine with the powder check & .233. I also noticed the press is acting like I'm short stroking it, even though I'm now, maybe my clutch is broken again.
More testing & updates soon.

[dverna]

Well, I got one of these new slow twist rods from Lee and I don't think it's going to be a popular item, not for .223 anyway. I have been testing a few different accessories for this press and I have found that with this new rod & the DAA powder check, it causes empty brass to bind up on the inside of the powder check probe on .223 cases mid-length on the down stroke (not good). The original rod is fine with the powder check & .233. I also noticed the press is acting like I'm short stroking it, even though I'm now, maybe my clutch is broken again.
More testing & updates soon.

duces,

I ordered the slow twist rod but I am only planning to load pistol cases. While on their site, I ordered four clutches and more primer shuttle springs. I think those parts will be in the Achiles heel of this press.

Just too busy on other things now but hope to get into more reloading. I will likely convert to loading 9mm as that seems what we will be shooting the most this year.

[deces]

The new rod should work perfectly fine for pistol cases, if the indexing problem is just my clutch. What Lee did was elevate the length of twist on the rod, it is much more gradual over a longer distance. That is why it wont work with the DAA powder check & .223, not really their fault it doesn't work with aftermarket products, at least the old rod works.

[deces]

Between my ABLP & Pro4k this is now clutch #3, I'll probably get a dozen next time.

[deces]

Double Alpha Magnetic Powder Check on Lee Six Pack Pro



The plunger on the DAA Magnetic Powder may interfere with the ability to index the Six Pack Pro. This happens when the plunger hangs too low into the case and the indexing motion begins before the plunger is out of the case.



An easy and quick remedy is to affix a zip tie or similar to the rod to prevent the rod returning fully to the bottom. See the attached image for reference.

316582

[FabMan]

I’m still on the fence ordering one of these presses.
Is Lee updating the press to correct issues with it since first sold?
Is the primer system reliable?
Are the die’s located too close together that they interfere?
Is this breech lock system supposed to be better than a tool head?
How easy is it to caliber change the dies out for repeatability?

[GWS]

"Is Lee updating the press to correct issues with it since first sold?"
More than I've ever seen Dillon or RCBS do in the first year. Yes they have corrected a few things, and for those who bought early, have replacement parts to upgrade.

"Are the die’s located too close together that they interfere?"

I'm sure that's a matter of opinion......but I haven't found a problem that I couldn't handle fairly easy. I do like to use a cardoor handle remover to make it easier to loosen the back ones.....but that said, you can remove the ones in reach...then do what you want with the ones less in reach...then replace the first one.

"Is this breech lock system supposed to be better than a tool head?"

No....or it depends on your druthers. Somes like tool heads somes like bushings. For bushings they work fine. I prefer tool heads, but I like this press just fine.....and I don't plan to change calibers on it every day, anyway.

"How easy is it to caliber change the dies out for repeatability?"


Caliber change is not hard, just start from the front, apply the tool, twist C.C a quarter turn and remove. Repeat 5 more times......(tool heads have the advantage there, but still better than screwing them in.)

Repeatability? I've never been enthralled with Lee's "O" ring system that requires you to remember every time, not to touch the die when you remove, insert, or even handle the dies. Only touch the Die Ring. So being less than perfect, I prefer the ones they also sell that have set screws.....with the set screws tight, I don't worry about repeatability.

The press works fine.....primer system isn't perfect, won't feed the last 3 or 4, and sometimes the little "knocks" to encourage more primers to fall down the chute doesn't.....but then I've never found a perfect system. It is safe....the important thing....you do have to be aware, and never let your guard down. Make sure every stroke primes....that's doable and smart......or do what a lot of people do on their progressives, blue,green, or red.....hand or bench prime. But remember, if you don't finish the UpStroke of the handle, you are not priming......that's called user error, and I've done that during the learning process and probably so has most.

The Mark 7 press may have finally made the first perfect priming system....may have. But for that money they better have....and that's only with their new vibrating shuttle disk, and no "user" error. Lee's press might be more perfect with some kind of vibrator. ;)

[Kenstone]

I’m still on the fence ordering one of these presses.
Is Lee updating the press to correct issues with it since first sold?
Is the primer system reliable?
Are the die’s located too close together that they interfere?
Is this breech lock system supposed to be better than a tool head?
How easy is it to caliber change the dies out for repeatability?

From what I've read, Lee has been updating/correcting issues continuously since its release, using the 1st buyers as beta testers.
The updates have died down now, and the complaints have mostly stopped.
Here's some recent vids:
https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=lee+six+pack+pro+reloading+pr ess

Here's a couple of threads without many up-to-date postings, so the bugs have been worked out... for now:

https://www.thehighroad.org/index.php?threads/lee-6000-press.905987/

Reading them back to front will get you the latest info.

https://www.thehighroad.org/index.php?threads/lee-pro-6000-unboxing-and-testing-for-oal-consistency.911743/
:D
.

[deces]

After some time of buying this press and loading hundreds of .223, I am now aware that Lee has since made many more shell plates than when I got mine. I guess I was using the wrong shell plate for .223, I think this will eliminate some of the observed case wobble during it's operation. I still think Lee should make a dedicated 9mm shell plate, maybe in time.

[powwowell]

Between my ABLP & Pro4k this is now clutch #3, I'll probably get a dozen next time.

How difficult is it to change the clutch?

[dverna]

How difficult is it to change the clutch?

About 20-30 minutes.

[deces]

It's simple. First remove the die that isolates the index rod, pull up & out the index rod, raise the ram, wiggle or pick out the clutch, insert $3 clutch and reassemble.

[deces]

Yesterday I finished parking my shell plates, struck match black. 316837

[GWS]

So how do you parkerize? And you do it to prevent rusting? ....or eyestrain....?;)

Thanks for the clutch changing instructions.....I'll save that post for if I ever ruin one. So far, the first one is healthy still. But I'm teaching my grandson to reload so the possibility goes up with two users. What do you think causes them to die? Forcing something? Speed? or just bad luck?

[dverna]

It's simple. First remove the die that isolates the index rod, pull up & out the index rod, raise the ram, wiggle or pick out the clutch, insert $3 clutch and reassemble.

Don’t believe you. Show a couple of pictures if it is that easy.

edited:

deces is correct. I have one of the early presses and the manual does not show it, but the new instructions show the bottom of the carrier plate and the clutch. I just took mine out and it took about two minutes...easy peesy.

THANK YOU DECES!!!

Look at page four where they show the different index rods.

https://leeprecision.com/files/instruct/SixPackPro.pdf

[powwowell]

It's simple. First remove the die that isolates the index rod, pull up & out the index rod, raise the ram, wiggle or pick out the clutch, insert $3 clutch and reassemble.

WOW! I am astonished. Thanks for the instructions.

Larry

[GWS]

I really like my APP and 6000, but that said, I don't understand why Lee can't document them properly the first time. From hours to minutes....with just some good instructions....amazing...... Then there's the other end of the spectrum: buy a Dillon....get real comfortable in your easy chair, with your reading glasses and some good light, and spend a few hours reading and studying their tome, then repeat because you can't remember everything in one reading!;)

But with the Lee machines it my own fault too......I bought early and became one of many prototype beta testers! :) So Lee Precision are the smart ones. Get paid from beta testers instead of providing free equipment to them. When I bought mine, I betcha even Lee didn't know how to change clutches fast.

Did I read that right.......the clutch can be rotated 90d and used like new, so you can actually use a clutch until you break it a second time before you have to replace it.?

Deces......parkerizing......please?:popcorn:

[deces]

So how do you parkerize? And you do it to prevent rusting? ....or eyestrain....?;)

Thanks for the clutch changing instructions.....I'll save that post for if I ever ruin one. So far, the first one is healthy still. But I'm teaching my grandson to reload so the possibility goes up with two users. What do you think causes them to die? Forcing something? Speed? or just bad luck?

Yup, after the effects of humidity took over my Hornady LnL, I can't stand looking at bare metal on presses. I'm not going to let this press go. I figure the black shellplates will really cut down on glare with the KMs2 light just above as well.
I think we can work something out, I'll send you a PM.

[deces]

It seems Lee is still offering quality of life improvements for the Pro6K and other presses.
https://www.leeprecision.com/92040-roller-handle-upgrade-for-six-pack-pro-classic-turret-press
https://www.leeprecision.com/auto-drum-swivel-adapter-update320842320843320844320845

[lightload]

I buy and use Lee equipment but gave up on their progressives. That's on me and not Lee. Sometimes I wonder if the guys who put these machines together could really make them run if they reloaded on them.

[deces]

Would that have been the old Pro 1000 press?
They kind of made the setup & indexing fool proof now, problem is that it now breaks a $3 clutch if you are doing something wrong and force the press.

[deces]

I got a few of these to match my auto drums, they are actually pretty nice for screwing into a lee powder drop die, it's so much more easy yo do and it eliminates 2 tiny and now useless parts for the powder drop assembly.322258322259

[jetinteriorguy]

I got a few of these to match my auto drums, they are actually pretty nice for screwing into a lee powder drop die, it's so much more easy yo do and it eliminates 2 tiny and now useless parts for the powder drop assembly.322258322259
Just curious, does this new setup possibly move the drum all the way up to the drop hole and all the way down so the hole in the drum will align with the drop tube better? One of the reasons I don’t really use my two Autodrums is because I feel like if they would have designed the rack and pinion setup less sloppy then it would drop loads more consistently.

[onelight]

Watch the dodad that pushes the case into the shell plate , if it is cocking to one side when it backs away it may drag the case it just fed partially out of the shell plate. If it does remove the dodad and remove the screw that holds the two half's together and sand one side to tighten the dodad up on the rail when reassembled .
Trial and error try it on the rail as you go to make sure it slides freely but has reduced play.
My 6000 works great but needed a little extra work to get setup.
Good luck.

[deces]

Just curious, does this new setup possibly move the drum all the way up to the drop hole and all the way down so the hole in the drum will align with the drop tube better? One of the reasons I don’t really use my two Autodrums is because I feel like if they would have designed the rack and pinion setup less sloppy then it would drop loads more consistently.

This new assembly is tight. I know what you mean by the slop, On the powder die body where the knurled nut slips in and the post is inserted, you can tighten up the play by pinching the casting in a vise (do at your own risk).

The main purpose of the red adapter and new stem is to eliminate the need for a Lee powder measure riser every time. It is a little shorter than a riser but, but you are not limited in using a riser if needed.

[deces]

Watch the dodad that pushes the case into the shell plate , if it is cocking to one side when it backs away it may drag the case it just fed partially out of the shell plate. If it does remove the dodad and remove the screw that holds the two half's together and sand one side to tighten the dodad up on the rail when reassembled .
Trial and error try it on the rail as you go to make sure it slides freely but has reduced play.
My 6000 works great but needed a little extra work to get setup.
Good luck.

I would consider giving the new Universal Case Feed magazine featuring 5 feed tubes a try. It's pretty slick.
I always thought that lee's 4 tube case feeder design was inferior to what the 3D printing community brought to the world. Lee took noted and even surpassed the function on many levels.

[John Guedry]

I read this post from front to back. I came to one conclusion: I don't want any progressive presses, No Lee,Hornady,Dillon,or any other I haven't heard of. I'll stick with my single stage and my turret.

[Kenstone]

I would consider giving the new Universal Case Feed magazine featuring 5 feed tubes a try. It's pretty slick.
I always thought that lee's 4 tube case feeder design was inferior to what the 3D printing community brought to the world. Lee took noted and even surpassed the function on many levels.

Here is a different case feeder for the 6 pack, for sale on etsy:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RFqC40D-Bn0
on etsy for $40 from Norway:
https://www.etsy.com/shop/grimnir3d/?etsrc=sdt

Thank me later,
.

[dverna]

Here is a different case feeder for the 6 pack, for sale on etsy:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RFqC40D-Bn0
on etsy for $40 from Norway:
https://www.etsy.com/shop/grimnir3d/?etsrc=sdt

Thank me later,
.

That is amazing. Thank you!!! I am ordering one. I hate the Mickey Mouse feeder that came with mine.

[onelight]

I would consider giving the new Universal Case Feed magazine featuring 5 feed tubes a try. It's pretty slick.
I always thought that lee's 4 tube case feeder design was inferior to what the 3D printing community brought to the world. Lee took noted and even surpassed the function on many levels.
I have one of the new 5 tube feeders it is great it comes with the spring stop in front of the drop position and the case collator is much better.
Much easier to adjust for reliable case feeding.
Yesterday I loaded 1000 9mm no case feed problem and only 3 that fed upside down the 5 tube collator is much improved over the 4.

[deces]

I have one of the new 5 tube feeders it is great it comes with the spring stop in front of the drop position and the case collator is much better.
Much easier to adjust for reliable case feeding.
Yesterday I loaded 1000 9mm no case feed problem and only 3 that fed upside down the 5 tube collator is much improved over the 4.

Yeah, I'm a fan of it too. My only gripe is the cheap collator. I hope "New Design American Accurate Collator" makes a 5 tube version.

[GWS]

I read this post from front to back. I came to one conclusion: I don't want any progressive presses, No Lee,Hornady,Dillon,or any other I haven't heard of. I'll stick with my single stage and my turret.

Why miss out on the fun! I got dang sick of one cartridge for every 4 or most often 5 strokes of that dang handle! Now I only have to do that the first 5 strokes, then it's one finished round for each and every stroke. You couldn't pay me to go back to singles, turret or not......except maybe the APP, because it's a single all right but its got a case feeder! and that built-in case feeder makes it the case prep king.

Now, if you're not real flush with money spilling out of your ears, then Lee finally provides a quite respectable progressive with their Six Pack.....no, not as out of the box easy as Dillon, but it's not that hard. At 74 I'm having a ball and the small amount of tweaking necessary is fun for me and keeps me out of my easy chair.

In the video below, doesn't that testing run of case feeding, then bullet feeding, look fun? In that test, no primer or powder....no actual seating, just feeding the bullets on an "M" die to hold them square for seating.....yes the last one fell over, teaching me that even with an "M" neck expander, the last bullet in the stack won't stick as well as unless there's at least one bullet above it to provide weight on the dropping one.....so make sure there's one more bullet in the stack than you actually use....


https://youtu.be/gmOBez6doNE

Way better than watching TV.....keeps your mind alive. :) Dece will notice I didn't have the newer shell plate for .223. Wobble, wobble.

Then if someone suckers you into spending cash for a 3D printer, for less cost than buying a commercial bullet feeder, then you can print $60 bullet and case feeders, all year. I have 5 now.....and have spent only the cost of one commercial one with 3 caliber changes including the cost of the 3D printer. And caliber change kits cost $5 plus a few hours printing while you do something else. And you get this kind of result:


https://youtu.be/LVoPngJTHxE

That was a "first test" of a 9mm caliber change plate......heck testing is half the fun.....

Dece.....you still have your Ender 3 printer? That machine will do 95% of what I've printed.....and the other 5% I could technically get along without.....every thing in these two videos only require a 220x220mm bed.

[GWS]

Here is a different case feeder for the 6 pack, for sale on etsy:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RFqC40D-Bn0
on etsy for $40 from Norway:
https://www.etsy.com/shop/grimnir3d/?etsrc=sdt

Thank me later,
.

Isn't that just the 3D print files so you can print your own? Would be still worth it to me, if he hadn't been so slow.....I had to design my own version which is working in the video above.....:) But I'd buy his files for that much.....I probably spent 20 hours designing my system for the 6000.....mines a little simpler, but uses an 8" long telescoping tube inside the stationary tube to the elect. collator.

[dverna]

Isn't that just the 3D print files so you can print your own? Would be still worth it to me, if he hadn't been so slow.....I had to design my own version which is working in the video above.....:) But I'd buy his files for that much.....I probably spent 20 hours designing my system for the 6000.....mines a little simpler, but uses an 8" long telescoping tube inside the stationary tube to the elect. collator.

I believe the files are under $10

[GWS]

I believe the files are under $10

Even better! Wonder how fast and how much the shipping is from Norway? Yours is on the way? Waiting for the review!! I'd pay $10 to print and see how well it works......I also wonder what it takes for say changing from 9mm to 223 rifle? Should be a fun winter spring.....something new to play with.:)

[dverna]

Even better! Wonder how fast and how much the shipping is from Norway? Yours is on the way? Waiting for the review!! I'd pay $10 to print and see how well it works......I also wonder what it takes for say changing from 9mm to 223 rifle? Should be a fun winter spring.....something new to play with.:)

I bought the kit. Came to just over $40. Shipping was under $10.

[deces]

Way better than watching TV.....keeps your mind alive. Dece will notice I didn't have the newer shell plate for .223. Wobble, wobble.

I'm not sure if I ordered the wrong one, or if Lee made another .223 shellplate since I ordered mine. :confused:Yeah I still have the Ender 3, but I am at wits end with it I bought a kit for it. I also can't figure out how to calibrate the extruder, I feel like I'm going have an aneurysm anytime I think about it. [smilie=6:
322452

[Kenstone]

Even better! Wonder how fast and how much the shipping is from Norway? Yours is on the way? Waiting for the review!! I'd pay $10 to print and see how well it works......I also wonder what it takes for say changing from 9mm to 223 rifle? Should be a fun winter spring.....something new to play with.:)

You can buy the print file here:
https://www.etsy.com/listing/1646791863/3d-printable-universal-case-dropper-for?click_key=14adc87de3b044b8c56beda7ed9262353717 647d%3A1646791863&click_sum=855ebef7&ref=shop_home_active_1&crt=1
.

[GWS]

You can buy the print file here:
https://www.etsy.com/listing/1646791863/3d-printable-universal-case-dropper-for?click_key=14adc87de3b044b8c56beda7ed9262353717 647d%3A1646791863&click_sum=855ebef7&ref=shop_home_active_1&crt=1
.

Thanks Ken!.....finally paid for and downloaded the files.....looking for the time to print and play. :) Maybe tonight, I can start the first print.....let you know what happens.

[Kenstone]

Thanks Ken!.....finally paid for and downloaded the files.....looking for the time to print and play. :) Maybe tonight, I can start the first print.....let you know what happens.

Thanks for posting...
What does the hardware list look like, anything uncommon from U.S. hardware?

I had hoped the members that bought the completed feeder would have reviewed them here by now.
If they had problems, we would have heard about it by now. :neutral:

I know you will fill us in on the details once you have printed and tested it.
.

[GWS]

Thanks for posting...
What does the hardware list look like, anything uncommon from U.S. hardware?

I had hoped the members that bought the completed feeder would have reviewed them here by now.
If they had problems, we would have heard about it by now. :neutral:

I know you will fill us in on the details once you have printed and tested it.
.

Yes I will, but this video should answer most of your questions, for now. There's a lot of parts to print....I can combine what I can.....and some I may not print just becuase I don't use the 4-way but will use the alternate part to connect it to a TylerR collator. Yup he knows all about TylerR and his generousity.......his instructions even has the link to his "downloads".....IOW's he made it to use Tyler's downtube connectors as well. Too bad he didn't join the Castboolits party on Ammo Mikes and Tyler's thread....but then TylerR doesn't have a Lee 6000 and this is made expressly for that. I think I may have given him the idea to design this as he refers to "flimsy clear tube design";)......but that's okay.....I put out my ideas to help others....and I know darn well there are lots of people smarter than me who can improve my ideas......and if this really is an improvement then great.....may use it myself. Afterall, I did "buy" the files.:)

Anyway here's the Youtube file on putting it together. Looks very well thought out.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aJTc_I_qpU0


He is obviously into it for a business venture....includes the typical patent and law suit warnings....I wish him well....

[deces]

Does anyone know what size thrust bearings would be needed to add them to the linkage system on this press?

[GWS]

Does anyone know what size thrust bearings would be needed to add them to the linkage system on this press?

Minimum bore diameter measured 7/16" on mine....slipped on such a washer that measureed exactly 7/16 ..... smooth on but no slop.

[GWS]

So I printed it and tried it out with 9mm.....seems to work as advertised......next test will be to see if caliber changes are harder than TylerR's quick change system. Parts all printed really well and smooth. Impressed with the parts.


https://youtu.be/uPrYEO-wMSo

[deces]

A fellow member of the board here, does a nice demo of Lee's updated powder drum kit.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=upNgSklAZ5o

[Gillie Dog]

A fellow member of the board here, does a nice demo of Lee's updated powder drum kit.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=upNgSklAZ5o

LEE sent me the orientation lock for all Auto Drum measures I have, when I requested them, just for the reason shown in the video when I tested/installed an Update Kit. In 2017 they started adding the orientation locks so older measures do not have them.

Just a little side note/information.

GD

[deces]

For those who need storage option and can't get enough bins, Lee is now offering 2 different colored bins. I can see them being nice for organizing brass in their various steps.

They might be limited edition since they are in the clearance section.

324022

[Wooserco]

dverna, I haven't read through the entire thread. BUT, have you checked out the forum dedicated to the Lee products? Specifically this sub forum dedicated to progressive presses? They are as great a group of people as you will find on here. FYI: be forewarnesd this forum is moderated by Ranch Dog.

https://lee-loader.com/viewforum.php?f=15

[Wooserco]

I believe that they are standard Acro Bins. You can get them everywhere, even Harbor Freight.