I now own a lubrisizer

[michael.birdsley]

A pre owned lubrisizer came in the mail today. That’s very exciting. Now all I need to do is get sizing dies and some lube. I probably start focusing on cast boolits once deer season ends here. In about 2-3 weeks. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20221116/ef6ddc91078542346223758028e1bfce.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[MUSTANG]

Do yourself a favor and get a Lube Heater before you get started. I have been using this type of Lube Heat for 30 Years -

306952

Amazon sells them; Lyman and others make them, and....

https://www.amazon.ca/Lyman-Reloading-Universal-Lube-Heater/dp/B000N8OTME

Also; before using - check and replace if needed the o-Rings. They tend to give way over time and may be aged on your previously used Lube Sizer.

[elmacgyver0]

I would probably get one if you could use it to put powder coat on a boolit.

[metricmonkeywrench]

Nice, the heater may not be necessary depending on your lube of choice. There’s plenty of “stickies” on lubes and sizers to go thru to help guide you.

[Winger Ed.]

That's good.

That whole powder coat thing is just a fad anyway.

[Mk42gunner]

As long as you don't try to lube and size boolits in a thirty degree garage, a heater may not be necessary. A good soft lube will flow at normal room temperatures, given enough pressure on the reservoir screw.

Look up the short version of how to make FWFL. I balked at the high prices of store bought lube and made my first batch of FWFL years ago, it works fine for the smokeless loads use it for both rifle and pistol. BP, I use a different lube (and lubrisizer).

Robert

[michael.birdsley]

Yeah I have some learning to do with it. I think powder coating works but, it’s also more steps involved to do it. With my limited knowledge of casting it seems like there is no one size fits all. Powder coating works better for something’s and lube works better for others.

I’ll definitely be looking into the heater. I have no idea what lube I’ll be using. I’ll probably break it down and clean it soon.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[slim1836]

It is good to have options.

Slim

[Bazoo]

Congratulations. I use a hairdryer for mine. If it’s chilly, I use it for a little heater on me too.

[michael.birdsley]

So I spent most of the night dis assembling the press and cleaning all of the old lube out. Works pretty slick now.

1st question is do you generally find one lube that you like and try and use that lube for all of your cast bullets ? If you do change lube what is your purge out procedure to get rid of the lube from the previous run?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Wal']

Have used the same lube for years for all my reloads, pistol & rifle.
Made up some Bens's Red back then & still using it, with a little help from a DIY lube heater.

[Land Owner]

That sizer is a beast. You can't wear them out. I had one from an estate sale in much worse shape, cleaned it, lubed it, sold it to BIL, and he still likes me...go figure. Looks like yours will need a 1/4 socket and driver to rotate the pressure screw. I believe some have found Lyman (or other) has them, for a fee.

I decided not to spend the dime on a heater. I use the light bulb trick instead. Couple of towels thrown over the sizer, light bulb of 40 watts (or more), mine just happens to have an aluminum cone on it, direct at the sizer body for about 20 minutes prior to use and the entire sizer body get "just right" temperature for a casting session. If it cools and becomes harder to use, just apply the light bulb and towels for another 10 minutes (+/-).

[uscra112]

Yah, a 60 watt drop light does just fine as a heater. You've probably got one already.

Cleaning out - - If you can find a pot big enough, boil it. Don't expect to use the pot for cooking afterward, however.

Amazon has 1/4" bidirectional ratchets. I use this one:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000XYOUS6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[kungfustyle]

One thing no one tells you about a lube sizer is to wait on rifle bullets. Let them harden over two weeks then size them. If not you get little banana shaped boolits. LsStuff.com has some great lube to get you started. Best of luck.

[Shopdog]

Congrats.... pretty simple tools that given respect will last a cpl lifetime's.

They are NOT swaging press's. Be careful,if it feels really tough to size,back off and reassess the situation.... don't just keep pulling harder.

The leade in on H dies is the little bevel at the top of the die;

Too abrupt and you get a noticeable bump,or hump in the force pressure curve. Too much bevel and the bullet can go in crooked. Not alarming,just a headsup on that,not so small tidbit. Some folks use shovels to dig rabbit holes.... I like Case backhoes,bwahaha.

[oley55]

Subject shift for Shopdog

I'd like to know more about that carousal holding those Uni-flow powder measures in your pic. Is that a DIY?

[skeet1]

So I spent most of the night dis assembling the press and cleaning all of the old lube out. Works pretty slick now.

1st question is do you generally find one lube that you like and try and use that lube for all of your cast bullets ? If you do change lube what is your purge out procedure to get rid of the lube from the previous run?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I have used many different lubes over the years but have settled on one, Carnuba Red (CR). CR needs a heater, just barely, and is very economical. I would suggest trying one of the lubes from Lars at White Label Lube, you can't make it yourself for the price he charges. From Lars selection, you should be able to find a lube that just suits your need. https://lsstuff.com/home

[rcslotcar]

White Label Lube is my go to lube. I do use a heater with it.

[uscra112]

H dies?

[Scrounge]

So I spent most of the night dis assembling the press and cleaning all of the old lube out. Works pretty slick now.

1st question is do you generally find one lube that you like and try and use that lube for all of your cast bullets ? If you do change lube what is your purge out procedure to get rid of the lube from the previous run?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Just answering the "what is the purge out procedure" question here. I disassembled my new used Lyman and sunk it in the cast iron Dutch oven my wife gave me for shop use, filled it with tapwater, and put it on the stove, covered, and brought it to a boil. Next morning, when it was cold again, I pulled the clean parts out, reassembled it with new gaskets bought from eBay, and put a stick of RCBS lube in it. The old lube was hardened in a layer on the top of the water. Pulled it out and trashed it.

I have here a set of lube molds made from PVC pipe that I bought in the Swappin' and Sellin' area, and will someday start making my own lube. I need to lay hands on a tube of Polyrex EM grease first...I have plans! ;)

[lightman]

Congratulations on the purchase. Lots of good advice above. I'll 2nd not trying to size a bullet down too far. Just remember its not a swaging press! And I'll add another "like" for White Label Lubes. Good stuff, Good people!

[Shopdog]

Subject shift for Shopdog

I'd like to know more about that carousal holding those Uni-flow powder measures in your pic. Is that a DIY?

Sent you a pm

[Green Frog]

Friend Michael, having scanned your thread quickly, I can’t find where you list which bullets you want to lube and for what kind of shooting. This is important. Many of us who have been using this exact press for decades keep going back to the old NRA formula of 50-50 ALOX-Beeswax formula (still available from Lars/White Label I believe) and one or two H&I dies with appropriate top punches and you’re good to go. Don’t feel like you’ve got to rush out and get every diameter of sizing dies, a half dozen kinds of lube, a heater, etc, etc. Start slow and experience the press then add to what you have as you need it.

One thing you really must have is the wrench to control pushing the lube. The earliest ones I have had were specially made and marked for Lyman by Chapman. Later, they just included Chapman wrenches. Hint: You can probably go to your local auto parts store (Auto Zone, Advance Auto, Fisher’s, etc) and get a similar one there for just a few bucks and not worry about ordering one.

The other item you’ll need is the die wrench. There are other wrenches you might be able to use, but the Lyman unit works. If you didn’t get one with your purchase, find and buy one… you can probably still order one by phone from Lyman.

Enjoy your new purchase. My dad bought one new back in the Seventies and I bought another in a thrift shop 20 years later. They work!

Froggie

[gwpercle]

You wont need a " Heater" if you simply use soft lubes ...

Soft Lubes work better . I've reclaimed way too much range lead with hard lube still in the boolit lube grooves ... it needs to go in the barrel .

Bought my 450 in 1973 and have never used a heater . If cold , hair dryer , heat gun or shop lamp will warm up the unit ... my method is not to size/lube when it's that cold .

The Lube/Sizer is the best boolit making thing I ever spent good money on ... one cycle of the handle produces a sized , lubricated and gas checked (if needed) boolit ...ready to shoot !
Nothing is faster ! My lube of choice Lithi-Bee (1 part lithium grease - 3 parts Beeswax)
Lucas Red-N-Tacky grease is my choice .

Almost forgot .... Congratulations on getting the Lube/sizer ...
you are hereby awarded a golden ... ATTABOY ...

Gary

[pworley1]

I have one with a heater and several without. I mostly only use three. All the lubes I use are from LsStuff.com BAC for velocities up to about 1200 then carnuba blue up to about 1800 then carnuba red. Only the carnuba red needs the heater.

[Mk42gunner]

The easiest way I have found to get the old lube out is to gently heat the press body with a propane torch after removing the H&I dies and the lube plunger. I have cleaned three lubrisizers out and boiled the first one, the next two I used the torch.

To answer the question about trying different lubes-- The first few I will finger or pan lube before going to the trouble of changing lubes. If they both are acceptable you can also just run the new lube on top of the old lube.

I'm also not sold on the idea that the top punch has to exactly match the boolit. My most used top punch is a one inch long section of ¼" rod. It works for flat nosed SWC and also RN rifle boolits as long as they are ACWW or harder (haven't tried real soft alloy).

Robert

[poppy42]

For lube, I use Ben’s Red. The formula can be found here on the forum. You certainly don’t need a heater if you use Ben’s red. Having the right top punch can be great but not really a big deal if you don’t have one. If you need to alter the profile of a top punch heat it up put some hot glue in it and while the glue is still soft stick the bullet with the proper nose configuration into it and you have a bullet specific top punch. Sooner or later the hot glue will wear down but it sure is easy enough to replace it.

[Winger Ed.]

gently heat the press body with a propane torch after removing the H&I dies and the lube plunger.t

That's how I do it if I'm switching from my hand gun mystery junk to Orang Magic for rifles.
If I'm going the other way, I leave the good stuff in and add the mix for slow movers as needed.

I've gotten my RCBS sizer pretty hot and it hasn't burned off or scorched the paint yet either.

[michael.birdsley]

Thanks for the replies. I just used a 1/4 inch deep well socket on a 1/4 ratchet for the lube wrench. I used a crescent wrench for the dye nut . To clean the old lube up I just used a heat gun and break cleaner to get most of the lube out. So sounds like I’m on the right track.

Apparently it came with a .358 dye already installed.

So right now I have in rifle 30-30 325c, 742 30-06, .450 RAR, 7.62x54r mosin , and a new savage .243.

I’m thinking I might cast for the .450 first so I can tame it down and enjoy shooting it at the range. But, that’s not set in stone I’d like to get that -06 out soon too.

Handguns I have 2 9mm’s sr9c and a sr9e. also a solid from iver Johnson 38 s&w wheel gun which I’ve been using Missouri bullet company RN boolits for and still have about 250 left. I’ve cast for the 9mm before I’ve gotten them to shoot well but, think I’m gonna stay with played target bullets.

I just bought 250 RNFP white tail bullets from Missouri bullet company so the 30-30 is set for the time being.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Wilderness]

Michael - depending on how much size reduction will be required, and on how much time you wish to invest in the operation, you might consider a two step operation involving the lubesizer AND a Lee sizing die.

In my view the Lee dies do the most concentric job of sizing, while the lubesizer is tops for seating gas checks and applying lube. Maintaining alignment for base first sizing in the lubesizer is always suspect, and more dependent on the sizing die than on the part doing the pushing, i.e. best with minimal sizing.

I suggest you buy one of the little gas check seating devices from Lyman. They just hold up the internal plug (the "I" part of "H&I) so you can put some push on the gas checks before sizing them on to the bullet.

If I were doing it again I would have only one lubesizer die for each calibre, and that die would be used for gas checking and lubing, with nil or minimal sizing. Then size in the Lee die.

The Lee dies can do some serious sizing without losing concentricity. My most extreme operation is turning hard #U321297HP (.32 Special) bullets into .30-30. Bullets are .322" from the mould. I gas check and lube in a .323" die, then in succession run the bullets through .314" and .311" Lee dies. With springback they come out at .3125", and shoot like a dream. And the gas checks sure as Hell stay on!

[michael.birdsley]

Michael - depending on how much size reduction will be required, and on how much time you wish to invest in the operation, you might consider a two step operation involving the lubesizer AND a Lee sizing die.

In my view the Lee dies do the most concentric job of sizing, while the lubesizer is tops for seating gas checks and applying lube. Maintaining alignment for base first sizing in the lubesizer is always suspect, and more dependent on the sizing die than on the part doing the pushing, i.e. best with minimal sizing.

I suggest you buy one of the little gas check seating devices from Lyman. They just hold up the internal plug (the "I" part of "H&I) so you can put some push on the gas checks before sizing them on to the bullet.

If I were doing it again I would have only one lubesizer die for each calibre, and that die would be used for gas checking and lubing, with nil or minimal sizing. Then size in the Lee die.

The Lee dies can do some serious sizing without losing concentricity. My most extreme operation is turning hard #U321297HP (.32 Special) bullets into .30-30. Bullets are .322" from the mould. I gas check and lube in a .323" die, then in succession run the bullets through .314" and .311" Lee dies. With springback they come out at .3125", and shoot like a dream. And the gas checks sure as Hell stay on!

I’ll look into that. Right now I do have 2 lee sizer dyes in .356 and .452. .356 for my hand guns and the .452 for my muzzle loader. The .452 may work for my .450 but, I have not checked the groove diameter yet on my RAR


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Polymath]

One thing to watch for is cross threading the sizing die nut. Start the nut with the wrench and "unthread it" until you feel the click, then go forward.

[Wilderness]

One thing to watch for is cross threading the sizing die nut. Start the nut with the wrench and "unthread it" until you feel the click, then go forward.

I can add to this one as well. Getting the nut started with the wrench provided can be a real chore. I start mine with a thin shifter.

I place the nut on top of the die, lower the ram onto it to square it up, then work it backwards and forwards with the shifter until I'm sure it's safely started. At that point I raise the ram and revert to the wrench provided.

[Bazoo]

I start my nut by lowering the ram and turning the nut with a wrench while the ram squares it up. Nary a problem.

[Winger Ed.]

I heat the nut & threads until the lube falls away, and it'll thread like any dry nut & bolt does.

Doing it cold and gunked up will produce cuss words you might not have ever known you knew.

[John Guedry]

I'm also a fan of White Label Lube. (BAC for me)

[uscra112]

You can't do without one of these clever little wrenches:

https://www.gunbroker.com/item/952262464

Seller is Paul Brown, and he has all kinds of spare parts for the 450 and 4500 sizers

[alamogunr]

The neatest wrenches for lube sizer dies are here:

https://www.artfulbullet.com/index.php?threads/die-retention-nut-drivers-for-sale.3302/

Not cheap but for Lyman dies will avoid cross threading.
Also available for RCBS

[uscra112]

To square-up the nut while starting the thread, just lay a nickel on it and hold it square with the ram.

[michael.birdsley]

I don’t understand the wrench thing. I could take it apart and put the die nut back in with an adjustable wrench.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[uscra112]

Which I did for years. The little Paul Brown wrench just makes it go a little quicker, and its' other end is the wrench for the lock nuts on the bottom.

[Scrounge]

I don’t understand the wrench thing. I could take it apart and put the die nut back in with an adjustable wrench.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Most long-time mechanics don't like using an adjustable wrench on any nut they want to reuse. They must be very tight and well-adjusted to avoid damaging the nut, and are still likely to slip off (possibly damaging the nut holding the wrench, too) if you put a lot of pressure on them. And lots of scars on my hands and especially knuckles. I've got at least a dozen adjustable wrenches in my shop, mostly Crescent or decent copies, but they are saved for when they're necessary, not used all the time. YMMV, of course.

Bill

[Walks]

I Love the Paul Brown wrench. I've been using the same Lyman 450 for 45+yrs. Never crossthreaded it yet.
Patience is a Virtue to be cultivated.

And know that long term storage of PC loaded ammo has become such a problem, I'll be using it again.

[uscra112]

PC doesn't store well long term? What's the failure mode?

[Sig]

The neatest wrenches for lube sizer dies are here:

https://www.artfulbullet.com/index.php?threads/die-retention-nut-drivers-for-sale.3302/

Not cheap but for Lyman dies will avoid cross threading.
Also available for RCBS

I bought one of those from the Perfessor when he used post here about 10 years ago. A very well thought out design & machining.

[mvintx]

I'll second the motion for using a heat gun/hair dryer. One application of heat for a few minutes will lube many boolits.

[michael.birdsley]

How do we feel about RCSB lube? I only say that because, the lgs has it in stock.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Land Owner]

My Lube-O-Matic came with the RCBS lube and I liked it with my 49-49-2 percent Pb-WW-Sn alloy, at about 12 BHN, for both handgun and rifle boolits.