Annealing For Pistol Brass

[dddddmorgan]

Just picked up a Ruger New Model Blackhawk in 45, I'm thrilled to have found one finally.

My question as per the title is in regards to an article I read a while back about annealing pistol brass, do you all do it for the straight wall rounds?

I'm going to keep the loads for this pistol at the "Tier II" level, nothing crazy.

I've never worn out 45 Colt brass before but I'm wondering if any of you have input about this?

[243winxb]

When this happens, buy new. No annealing.

[BK7saum]

The only reason I would anneal pistol brass was if I was loading extremely light loads and the case was not sealing the chamber against blowback

[contender1]

For your purposes,, no annealing necessary.

I load for a .256 Win caliber Hawkeye Ruger handgun. It's a bottleneck caliber,, and is formed from .357 Mag brass. It's a necessity to anneal that brass.

But straight walled brass, like the .45 Colt,, nope.

[JimB..]

I have annealed 41mag brass just to extend life, but I don’t do it routinely.

[HWooldridge]

I anneal 44-40 to extend life, but 45 LC seems to typically split down the side for me - much more than just at the neck.

[stubshaft]

I don't bother annealing pistol brass, the chance of softening the base is too great and unless it is some exotic caliber it is cheap enough.

[dddddmorgan]

This was what I was thinking. Seems to me a straight walled case presents no problems.

I guess this just rattled around in my brain with all the recent cycles in availability of components.

I shouldn't be too concerned, I do have a lifetime supply of brass. Really. An acquaintance who recently passed away was a source for approximately 150 pounds of brass, of which was quite a bit of 45 Colt. Apparently he didn't reload but shot quite a bit, I quit counting the big 45 after 1,500.

Guess I'll just get to shooting...

[georgerkahn]

Great you have soooo much brass! I'm pretty much an OCD Annealer, if there is such an animal, with my prime focus on obsolete/costly rifle cases my annealing costs/efforts more than amortize case replacement cost.
That said, it's funny you mention 45 Colt as this is the one calibre I tried annealing. Knowing a "#1 hazard" in any annealing is the annealing -- and thusly getting brass too soft for pressures -- at base of case, rather than using my Giraud machine or similar I did try the "stand 'em up in a baking pan in 1/2" of water" and use a flame-ring attachment for a Bernzomatic torch. Yes -- I was delighted as it seems to have worked. But -- guess what? At least in my brass lot I noted absolutely zero increase in case life; changes in group size at target; et cetera. I've not attempted common pistol calibre annealing since.
geo

[HWooldridge]

To keep the base from softening, place all the cases in a tray of water up to the area you want to soften. Bring them to color with a propane torch then tip them over in the water to cool. Easy-peasy.

The 44-40 is already thin and seals the chamber pretty well but a short anneal of the mouth helps reduce cracking and they seal even better when fired. Only downside is the brass is very easy to deform by rough handling. They can be mashed with just finger pressure after annealing but do harden again over time. I have a box of Remington headstamp that I bought as loaded shells in the late 1970's and am still reloading them in 2022. They have been annealed twice during that time.

[JimB..]

It they are soft enough to crush easily by hand then they have been over annealed and neck tension will be very poor.

[HWooldridge]

It they are soft enough to crush easily by hand then they have been over annealed and neck tension will be very poor.

Maybe I have strong hands...:wink:

Seriously, it has never been a problem that I can detect on the target or in the field, and they work harden again over time. I use a Lee factory style crimp die after seating the pill and that seems to seal everything pretty well. The 44-40, 38-40 and 32-20 all have paper thin cases and are easy to damage.

[JimB..]

Maybe I have strong hands...:wink:

Seriously, it has never been a problem that I can detect on the target or in the field, and they work harden again over time. I use a Lee factory style crimp die after seating the pill and that seems to seal everything pretty well. The 44-40, 38-40 and 32-20 all have paper thin cases and are easy to damage.

Well, being from Texas I assume that you have the hands and strength of a giant.;-)