Do you lube handgun brass with carbide dies?

[Bazoo]

I do not. A recent thread though prompted a lot of folks saying that they did indeed lube pistol brass that is run through a carbide sizing die. It does make it easier but it is not needed unless you are using new or squeaky clean brass. For new brass I run it through my tumbler so there is a fine dust on the brass. This negates lubing for that first time.

I’m interested if it’s the norm for folks to lube pistol brass or not. I say not but I guess the poll results won’t lie.

[super6]

Do as you will, Lube and be a happy camper! It just can not be detrimental. I lube.

[sukivel]

I do not…


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[salpal48]

I lube all Cases no exception

[JimB..]

Very rarely. If I’m running a hundred I don’t bother, if I’m running a thousand I’ll give them a quick spray.

[Wheelguns 1961]

I also lube them all.

[45DUDE]

I have reloaded since the early '80's and never lube pistol but I do use a little liquid car wax in my media to make it smoother.

[Binky]

Sometimes. Cases that are usually thin (45Colt 44-40 ect. ) can benefit from a little imperial sizing wax. Not every case but one in 15 or 20. When I have deep cleaned a sizer, I will lube the first case just to help it along. And of course, 30 carb., because the die makers recommend it. Cases vary a great deal in thickness and lube makes those old GI cases a lot easier to deal with.

[Pine Baron]

I have reloaded since the early '80's and never lube pistol but I do use a little liquid car wax in my media to make it smoother.

This right here.:goodpost:

[toallmy]

I would say I almost always in one way or another lube my handgun brass . Really clean unlubed brass gets sticking and squeaks when expanding case mouth .

[Mal Paso]

Sorta. I am still running Glen Fryxell's Lube in my handgun loads and especially at 44 Mag pressures that lube goes everywhere including the outside case walls. I lube in gun and don't let my brass hit the ground so I size/deprime in one operation before tumbling.

[rcslotcar]

Using lube makes sizing much easier/smoother with less stress to the cases.

[Iowa Fox]

I sure do for two reasons

1- the handle pulls much easier

2- dry on dry friction will eventually build metallic debris on the carbide ring causing scratches on the case. Usually it cleans off easy with bore solvent but its a pain in the butt.

[45_Colt]

Not: when dry/damp* vibratory cleaning with walnut grit, that lubes the cases enough. Never had an issue, and the cases run through the dies effortlessly.

Brass that is too clean**, such as SS pin & Dawn washed, can create issues.

45_Colt

*Damp means with some mineral spirits to keep the dust level down.

** funny that even Starline recommends that their NEW brass be vibratory cleaned prior to resizing.

[Daver7]

If I'm reloading a lot on the progressive I'll lube a few just to make it easier on this old man.

[Moleman-]

Been reloading since the late 80's and started off with carbide for most things (my 30 carbine sizer was steel for many years). Never had the need to lube cases going into the carbide dies until getting a wet pin tumbler. Those cases came out super clean and all of a sudden my carbide sizers were scratching cases and having brass stick to it. I changed out the dawn soap for a car wash and wax which seems to have fixed the issue. Recently I'd bought 1000 Starline 45 colt cases after my son bought a 45 colt Henry lever gun and there was no 45 colt ammo in the house. They didn't have good bullet tension as they came out of the starline box so we started sizing them and the familiar too clean brass gremlin showed up. I use lanolin/alcohol mix to size bulk 5.56 and 308 range plinker brass, so I sprayed a couple sprays in the bag and worked the cases around to spread out the lube and cleaned out the die while the alcohol evaporated. No issue sizing the full 1k box of cases and loading them.

[fc60]

Greetings,

Wet washing with Stainless pins I use dish soap for cleaning.

A very slight amount remains on the brass after rinsing.

This acts as a nice lubricant for the sizing and expanding operations.

New brass does not get sized.

Cheers,

Dave

[Bazoo]

Interesting replies. In the other thread I was informed that organic dust was a form of lubricant. Well that explains to me why dust from the tumbler is all that’s needed for new brass.

[redriverhunter]

since i have start using the lee app I lube. the shell holder does not have the grip of regular shell holders, nor does it have the leverage as the rock chucker.

[Budzilla 19]

Yes I lube them. Always have, probably not going to quit now! Makes the handle of whatever press im using at the time, a lot easier to operate. Just my .02.

[Winger Ed.]

In the other thread I was informed that organic dust was a form of lubricant.

I wouldn't trust it for that.
I'd be concerned about dust from some of the abrasives/polish being in there.

I doubt it would polish away the tolerances of the die or even the brass being rubbed with it too much.
I just don't like the idea of any abrasives left on the brass and possibly getting on the ram.
Maybe it's just an old habit from working on airplanes and everything being squeaky clean.

After tumbling, I always rinse the cases in Lacquer thinner.
There's a fair amount of grit that washes off them.

[jmorris]

I didn’t for 25 years, then I tried it once. Made me wish I had tried it, just once, long before that.

If you are looking for a reason to not try it don’t let me stop you but be sure that you never try it then.

[Walks]

I have never lubed straight walled cases that are sized in a Carbide size die. Seems like a waste of time and effort.
Been using the same RCBS .38Spl sizer since I bought it new in 1976. Nickel and brass cases come out with out a scratch.
So does every other straght case I've shoved into a Carbide sizer,
.32Short&Wimpy up to .454Casull.

Although I would like to see the .44-40 cases that go into a sizer without lube.

[warnerwh]

No. Tried it once and did make it easier on my progressive but it's not worth messing with to me.

[Bazoo]

I never new lubing pistol cases was a thing. The manual said it ain’t needed so I didn’t.

When I tumble, the dust that’s left is too much so I roll a handful of cases on my leg on a rag.

[toallmy]

Does A little wax in the tumbler count ?

[Chena]

Carbide dies cost extra. If they didn’t eliminate lubing cases I would not pay the difference.

[Kosh75287]

If I'm having problems with a certain lot of brass, like it requires a great deal more effort than usual to size, I'll add a dot of lube on every other case or so. I don't make it a habit to lube all cases that are going through a carbide sizer.

[trapper9260]

I started to lube all the case and stay that way . It works for me, first I tumble them in ground up walnut then after I lube and size, I put them in round up corn cobs to get the lube off and the cases comes out nice and shiny. Then I load them , it works for me. I know we each have our own way of doing things and there is no wrong way in it for this .

[dale2242]

No, with one exception.
I have a Lee 9MM carbide die that needs maybe 1 in every 4-5 cases lightly lubed.

[Sig]

I used to lube about 20 or so cases with imperial wax. I would run one lubed case through maybe every 20. The difference in the effort needed was night & day. Much less stress on the press. About a year ago I made a batch of case lube with lanolin & isopropyl alcohol. Now I dump a bunch of brass in a tub and spray a mist or 2 & swirl around. It takes less than 5 minutes & makes a world of difference IMO.

[Bazoo]

My question to those that do lube cases. How do you remove the lube? Or do you just not worry about it?

[Bazoo]

Does A little wax in the tumbler count ? I don’t think so, though it is performing the function of lube probably.

[45_Colt]

My question to those that do lube cases. How do you remove the lube? Or do you just not worry about it?

The cartridges that get lube, go into the vibratory tumbler. Using walnut grit and mineral spirits. About 15 minutes does the trick.

This is usually done after resizing and before final loading. Other times it is fully loaded cartridges. Being a low volume cartridge they are done on a SS press.

45_Colt

[autogun]

I do not lube straight wall cartridges; I lube 357 sig which has a baby bottleneck. I do load clean brass only.

[pworley1]

Sometimes. I know that it is not necessary, but I usually lube everything above 38/357. I think it is easier on the brass.

[Ajax111]

I don't lube straight wall cases. So far, I have never found the need.

[Daekar]

I only ever lube my 357 brass if it's a bit on the carbonized side and I don't want to run a full load of brass through the tumbler while working up a load.

[mdi]

Yes, no, maybe. My 44 magnum brass is the hardest to resize, not impossible but a dab on maybe one out of 3 or 4 helps quite a bit. My 9mm, 38/357, 32 ACP, 380 ACP, 45 ACP brass no, most of the time. Occasionally one out of 3 or 4 some 45 Colt brass gets a bit. I don't have anymore steel dies (except for rifle/bottle neck dies) so the only reason I have to lube handgun brass is easier sizing...

[doulos]

I usually do it now. Never use to do it. It really depends how many cases Im doing. If just working up a load and doing a few I just wipe them off and make sure there is nothing on them that will mar my dies.

[uscra112]

It's so easy to use lube, it never occurs to me not to. Big Ziplock bag, half full with wet-cleaned, decapped brass, a squirt of the RCBS water-soluble liquid, knead for a couple of minutes, and hey Presto! Dump into a clean stainless bowl, and start sizing. Rinse sized cases with hot water to remove lube, let dry, then prime.

Dry tumbling has been eliminated from my shop due to the airborne lead dust issue. If you're counting on the residual dust from the dry tumbler to lube your cases, then you're getting that lead dust on your hands.

[schutzen-jager]

Using lube makes sizing much easier/smoother with less stress to the cases.

jmho - also makes die more vulnerable to picking up containments + scratching brass

[Greg S]

A little Imperial wax every 5, 10-20 to keep the process smooth.

[Bazoo]

A little Imperial wax every 5, 10-20 to keep the process smooth.

Do you then remove it?

[stubshaft]

Nope

[Kenstone]

I answered "yes"

I am using a case feeder on a progressive so it's all or none, no way to do it occasionally.
I rub some Bag Balm (it's mostly lanolin) into a 30cal. patch, put it in a plastic container with the cases, cover it, and roll/tumble/shake to lube.
I think that's better than a spray because no lube gets inside the case but still a little on the case mouth for the expander.
You can spray it into an empty Zip-Lok bag and add the brass after spraying to minimize getting lube inside of the cases.

When do I remove the Lube?

I don't have the opportunity to remove it after sizing when reloading on progressives.
I don't wipe down loaded ammo, too slow, I just store and shoot it lubed.
The lube is removed when it is tumbled the next time...

Relative to Lube/Not lube.
I shoot a lot more 22LR now, it's cheaper than primers, I don't have to load it, and it's available in every Walley-world where I live.
I have minimized 22LR feeding/jamming problems by LUBING ammo before filling mags.
Same routine, spray some case lube into a Zip-Lok add the 22LR ammo and give it a shake.
No more hiccups,
jmo,
.

[Bazoo]

I answered "yes"

I am using a case feeder on a progressive so it's all or none, no way to do it occasionally.
I rub some Bag Balm (it's mostly lanolin) into a 30cal. patch, put it in a plastic container with the cases, cover it, and roll/tumble/shake to lube.
I think that's better than a spray because no lube gets inside the case but still a little on the case mouth for the expander.
You can spray it into an empty Zip-Lok bag and add the brass after spraying to minimize getting lube inside of the cases.

When do I remove the Lube?

I don't have the opportunity to remove it after sizing when reloading on progressives.
I don't wipe down loaded ammo, too slow, I just store and shoot it lubed.
The lube is removed when it is tumbled the next time...

Relative to Lube/Not lube.
I shoot a lot more 22LR now, it's cheaper than primers and I don't have to load it.
I have minimized 22LR feeding/jamming problems by LUBING ammo before filling mags.
Same routine, spray some case lube into a Zip-Lok add the 22LR ammo and give it a shake.
No more hiccups,
jmo,
.
I never would have thought of lubing 22s that way. Thanks for comment and tip!

[kevin c]

Sometimes extra lube, sometimes just the car wash n’ wax left on the cases after cleaning.

Starting out, I put lube on everything (I loaded only a few flavors of straight walled pistol) because it kept new brass from sticking, and made my progressive press cycle much smoother and easier (and therefore giving me more consistent ammo). I gave up the lubing when I switched to once or multi fired brass (the powder residue seemed to act as enough lube to eliminate expander ball sticking), wet tumble cleaning with car wash n’ wax, and batch processing in a way that made sizing resistance less of an issue.

Most recently I ran into a galling problem on my carbide sizer that seems specific to one brand of colored brass. Lubing that particular brass has stopped the galling; other brands haven’t caused the same issue and don’t get extra lube.

I shoot in sandy, dusty and windy conditions, where lube attracts grit, so I’m glad I don’t need to do the extra steps of lube application and removal to the reloading of most of the 20-30 K rounds I need yearly.

[TNsailorman]

If you have to lube your brass when using carbide dies, why pay the higher price for carbide dies? Why not just buy the steel dies if you are going to lube anyway. I use both carbide and non carbide and I lube on the brass to be used in the steel dies only, never carbide. I have been reloading for 64+ years and I have only stuck one case in a die and it was a 8x57mm case that was in bad shape that I was trying to iron out and salvage. I should have never put a very badly mangled case in the die to start with. my experience anyway, james

[robg]

i only lube when sizing feels harder than usual.even then just one case.

[schutzen-jager]

[ I shoot a lot more 22LR now, it's cheaper than primers, I don't have to load it, and it's available in every Walley-world where I live. ]

here in the east primers + .22 Rf are about the same price - both are unavailable at any price lately -

[John Guedry]

I lube about every third case,makes it a lot easier on this old guy.

[popper]

9mm and 40sw only straight wall I have so nope.

[Electrod47]

Everything works better with a little lubricant.

[Daver7]

Relative to Lube/Not lube.
I shoot a lot more 22LR now, it's cheaper than primers, I don't have to load it, and it's available in every Walley-world where I live.
I have minimized 22LR feeding/jamming problems by LUBING ammo before filling mags.
Same routine, spray some case lube into a Zip-Lok add the 22LR ammo and give it a shake.
No more hiccups,
jmo,
.

I lube 22s also. Got the idea from an old timer when I was shooting bulls eye.

[kayala]

I only lube big bore magnums - 500 and 460.

[Bazoo]

I never realized lubing handgun brass in any form was as prevalent as it is. Thanks everyone for sharing.

[derek45]

I use the Home-Brew Dillon style, lanolin and alcohol spray when processing rifle brass on my DILLON XL650

afterwards, I tumble in 20/40grit tiny corn cob media, it's too small to get clogged in the primer pockets.

On some pistol, I use the same lube, but more sparingly

44mag
45LC
9mm.

not- 38, 357, 45ACP, 380, 40, etc.

even though 9mmm is dinky, my XL650 still runs smoother when I give them a little spritz

https://i.imgur.com/hv28znX.jpg

[Harter66]

Wet lube guy here about 1/3 .

I've regresseded to steel dies for Colts , S&W , ACP 45s , 380 , and 38/357 .

[georgerkahn]

For 99% of handgun brass, using carbide ringed sizers, all cases are lubed. My thoughts include increased longevity of all components in the reloading process. My last operation before boxing is to give each a swirl with a paper towel, and (maybe just superstitious?) I am convinced that the microscopic but still present layer of wax provides enough of an approaching zero permeability layer to arrest corrosion of the brass, while making it more appealing to the eye.
geo

[gifbohane]

A little lube makes the process a little smoother.

[Kenstone]

A little lube makes the process a little smoother.

Yep, It's why I lick my knife when cutting cake.
:Bright idea:
.

[David2011]

It depends on the cartridge whether I lube for carbide dies. For 38/357, no. For 40 S&W, only when push through sizing with my Case Master Jr. For .44Spec/Mag, .45 ACP and .45 Colt, no. For .500 S&W, always and with pure lanolin.

[David2011]

After going through and reading a lot of the posts, here’s an easy way to clean lubed cases whether empty or loaded. Squirt some charcoal lighter fluid onto an old towel, put the cartridges on it and rub around. It’s that easy.

Caution: Charcoal lighter fluid is flammable. Just sayin’.

[wrenchman5]

No. I was taught I didn't need to, so never have. I've never had a problem.

[Big Wes]

I lube very thing I reload! Just makes things operate a bit smoother to me, been doing it for 28 years no need to change up now.

[Maine1]

in general, i do not lube. However, i will lube a case or two to smooth things out. On ocasion i'll spray a q tip in lube and wipe the inside of the die with it lightly.

[alamogunr]

I voted sometimes. When loading several large caliber cartridges, single stage or on the turret, I'll lube about every 5th-10th case. As others have said, it makes it easier to pull the handle and can't hurt the die.
I'll do somewhat the same when loading a bunch on the Dillon but probably less often.

[jetinteriorguy]

I’ve never in 30+ Years lubed a handgun case, until today. After reading this I thought I’d give it a whirl. I picked up 600 new Starline .41mag cases for $150.00 a while ago and when sizing them they really seemed to have a lot of resistance. I figured what the heck I’d give lubing a try. Wow, sure made that job a breeze. Once they’ve been fired and I’m reloading them I won’t bother with lubing them due to loading them on my Lee Turret but when new in the package I’ll lube from now on.

[lightman]

I voted "sometimes". I lube whatever cases seem to have the most resistance. 10mm and hot loaded 38 Super get lubed for sure and any magnums that offer a lot or resistance. As I age I can see using lube on more cases.

[guzma393]

I lube handgun cases to have a better feel on the resizing and decapping operation (i load on a progressive). Lubed cases run through a carbide die size very easily so it's easier to sense if there's a stoppage caused by an undersized flash hole/ nested 22lr case/crimped case/berdan case, etc.

[alamogunr]

I voted "Sometimes" and it applies to both progressive and single stage. I spritz a few cases and then size 3-4 of these and follow with about 10-15 w/o lube. I can't swear that it accomplishes anything except to lessen the effort required. There is not enough difference between the first and last of the unlubed cases for me to tell the difference.

[500aquasteve]

Very, very small amount, and I clean the die after about 50 of them. Please don’t use my vote as standard advice since I only have been loading for just under 2 years

[LabGuy]

Life is short, lube is cheep/inexpensive, choose wisely. I lube when I remember.

[LabGuy]

Life is short, lube is cheep/inexpensive, choose wisely. I lube when I remember. I usually remember when things are not smooth.

[jimlj]

No, with one exception.
I have a Lee 9MM carbide die that needs maybe 1 in every 4-5 cases lightly lubed.

I have the same problem. A
Even a real light mist of WD40 solves the problem. I give a rag a spritz of oil and roll a handful of brass on the rag. Every few cases through the press I’ll run a lubed case.

[fastdadio]

I do. Tried it years ago just to see 'what if'. Makes things easier for the mechanics involved in the sizing process. When things rub together under force, a little loob is always a good thing. I'll keep doing it.

[deltaenterprizes]

I voted sometimes.
Tapered cases benefit from lubing, straight wall cases not so much.
Although not a “pistol “ case, 30 Carbine cases even with a carbide die should be lubed due to the length and taper.
I size and prime my 9mm brass on a Hornady Iron press after wet tumbling and before running them through my Dillon 1050.
I run the primed brass through a max cartridge gauge to remove any cases with a “Glock bulge”.
It makes for smooth sailing!

[rsrocket1]

After a few hundred 9mm loads, I saw brass shavings and brass dust on my LnL AP plate. I started using Hornady One Shot case lube and the process goes much smoother for 9mm. I don't bother with 38/40/45 as those are pure straight walled cases and there is virtually no improvement by lubing the case but lube makes a noticeable improvement. It doesn't take a lot and I make sure to swirl the cases around and let the carrier evaporate for a few minutes before loading.

[jetinteriorguy]

After a few hundred 9mm loads, I saw brass shavings and brass dust on my LnL AP plate. I started using Hornady One Shot case lube and the process goes much smoother for 9mm. I don't bother with 38/40/45 as those are pure straight walled cases and there is virtually no improvement by lubing the case but lube makes a noticeable improvement. It doesn't take a lot and I make sure to swirl the cases around and let the carrier evaporate for a few minutes before loading.

I’ve found polishing the crimp die usually eliminates any brass shavings, not sure about brass dust since I’ve never encountered this.

[dannyd]

yes, makes things easier for me. Hornady One Shot

[Blindshooter]

Yes.
I use progressive presses and lots of times run 2k at a time.
A shot of Hornady lube in a closed plastic coffee can then give them a shake.
Load another primer tube or 2 while it dries a bit.
Helps smooth out the operation and most important it reduces the force needed to cycle and my messed up shoulder really thanks me.
I also use some wax in dry tumbling media.
Don't bother trying to remove whats left of the lube after loading.
This has worked well for me over many thousands of rounds.

[scottyp99]

I don't lube straight-wall cases, per se, when using a carbide sizing die. I give them a quick wash in soapy water using dish detergent, and I don't really rinse them very thoroughly, so there is still a residual amount of soap on them, I guess you could call that lube. After sizing and knocking the old primer out, the primer pocket needs to be cleaned out anyway, and after that is done is when I give them a more thorough wash and rinse before they are left to dry out, and then they go into the tumbler, with some crushed walnut media I get at the pet store, and a small amount of NuFinish. I like 'em shiny!

Scotty

[Bazoo]

Pretty interesting replies here. So almost 50% don’t lube. So... not as high a margin as I reckoned.

[45_Colt]

Pretty interesting replies here. So almost 50% don’t lube. So... not as high a margin as I reckoned.

I too was surprised at the number that do lube. But after some thought, there is also a lot of folks that are wet tumbling their brass. Which makes it really, really clean. Hence the need/nicety of lube.

I'm still old school vibratory tumbling with walnut grit and mineral spirits. No lube works for me.

45_Colt

[Bazoo]

I use a vibratory tumbler too. Even if I wet tumbled I’d still run them through the vibratory so I didn’t have to lube.

[dannyd]

Everyone has to do what they thinks best. But if you shoot over 10,000 rounds a year it definitely does help because I have done it both ways.

[LAH]

I use Hornady One Shot on pistol brass. Makes things so much easier on long runs of ammo.

[gypsyman]

Put another one down for One Shot. Don't spray much, as I feel if I only get partial number of cases, there's enough left in the die for a couple more.

[gnostic]

I've never lubed a case sized with carbide dies, that's why I use them...

[725]

I have mixed up a dash of lanolin w/ some alcohol and spritzed a tray of brass with a spray bottle. worked good.

[gloob]

My corncob is filthy. It gives all the lube I need for most pistol cases.

When sizing a hefty batch of 9mm, I sometimes use a sparing amount of lube. I believe the Frankford Arsenal spray lube I use is castor oil? When doing 9mm cases, I don't even add any fresh lube. The residual lube inside the plastic bag I use for rifle cases is enough to lube them. Dump the lot in, and shake them around.

[Alferd Packer]

Yes

[Kenstone]

Yes, I lube handgun brass but NOT with One Shot.
Not a fan of spraying brass with lube, so I "tumble-lube" with some cloths moistened with STP or Bag Balm.
I have been using the same premoistened cloths for 1000s of rounds without adding more lube.
Note the small hole poked into the STP foil top, easier to pour small amounts, and 20-year-old rags:
309171
Bag Balm:
309172
Square Plastic nut "jar":
309173
Actually, the rags are usually on at the bottom and the brass (more than pictured) is on top.
With the container about 1/3 full, I just screw on the top, grab it by the top, and swirl it around for 10-20 seconds to uniformly/lightly lube the brass.
no spray, no waiting to dry, no lube inside cases or in primer pockets, easy-peasy,
jmo,
[smilie=w:
Edit: I make no attempt to remove the lube after loading as it aids in the feeding/ejecting when fired.

[Bazoo]

Yes, I lube handgun brass but NOT with One Shot.
Not a fan of spraying brass with lube, so I "tumble-lube" with some cloths moistened with STP or Bag Balm.
I have been using the same premoistened cloths for 1000s of rounds without adding more lube.
Note the small hole poked into the STP foil top, easier to pour small amounts, and 20-year-old rags:
309171
Bag Balm:
309172
Square Plastic nut "jar":
309173
Actually, the rags are usually on at the bottom and the brass (more than pictured) is on top.
With the container about 1/3 full, I just screw on the top, grab it by the top, and swirl it around for 10-20 seconds to uniformly/lightly lube the brass.
no spray, no waiting to dry, no lube inside cases or in primer pockets, easy-peasy,
jmo,
[smilie=w:
Edit: I make no attempt to remove the lube after loading as it aids in the feeding/ejecting when fired.

That’s neat. Thanks for sharing that. It may come in mighty handy in the future.

[farmbif]

no. never lube when using carbide die. there is no need as long as brass is clean

[B1GB1RD]

I lube everything from 380 - 45lc, but I run a lot for the club and personal use, but I do not lube my silhouette 357 cause I only load a 100 at a time, go figure ...lol

[Kenstone]

no. never lube when using carbide die. there is no need as long as brass is clean

I hate to but, I'm going to just say, "Yea But" it's a lot easier to work the lever with lubed brass...
And it loads/strips from mags, and ejects smooothly.
[smilie=b:
.
That and I have learned not to make many no/never type rules to live by as someone may have a different/better way.
You do you, I'll do me, and we can both be happy in our own little worlds...
:drinks:
.

[Messy bear]

Kenstone, really like that idea! So simple and no lube in mouth. Thanks for sharing. Another good one about the cases ready at the progressive for bad ones.

I have been lubing cases for progressive use. Especially if cases are squeaky clean. My vibratory cleaning is with corncob wetted with mineral spirits or paint thinner. This holds dust down and cuts bullet lube. They come out kind of prelubed from the bullet lube but dust free and clean enough for me. That does it for most calibers but hard to size stuff like 500 Linebaugh and 9 mm I usually add a bit of lube. It really cuts down on wear and tear on me and press. I load all straight wall including 500 with carbide. Also hate the dust left behind by rouge type polish. Just increases effort for sizing as it is an abrasive. Lots of interesting stuff here. Thanks

[Kenstone]

Kenstone, really like that idea! So simple and no lube in mouth. Thanks for sharing. Another good one about the cases ready at the progressive for bad ones.

I have been lubing cases for progressive use. Especially if cases are squeaky clean. My vibratory cleaning is with corncob wetted with mineral spirits or paint thinner. This holds dust down and cuts bullet lube. They come out kind of prelubed from the bullet lube but dust free and clean enough for me. That does it for most calibers but hard to size stuff like 500 Linebaugh and 9 mm I usually add a bit of lube. It really cuts down on wear and tear on me and press. I load all straight wall including 500 with carbide. Also hate the dust left behind by rouge type polish. Just increases effort for sizing as it is an abrasive. Lots of interesting stuff here. Thanks

Thanks for reading/responding to my post.
Actually there is a minute amount of lube on the case mouth edge that lubes the expander.
Well, at least I'm claiming there is. :neutral:
.

[LAH]

Bag Balm. That is one I haven't tried.

[Kenstone]

Bag Balm....
It's mostly lanolin and was on hand, so why not.
Could have used peanut oil...
.

[375supermag]

Hi...
I typically never lube pistol brass because I use carbide dies.
However, I have found that new Starline brass sizes with much less effort if sprayed with Hornady One Shot.
I have not found a need to lube Starline brass after the initial sizing...it seems to resize just fine with carbide dies after that initial resizing.

[vernm]

I've never lubed a case sized with carbide dies, that's why I use them...

I usually do not lub pistol cases. But when I wet tumble with Dawn detergent, the cases come out so squeaky clean they drag in the sizing die.

Just a little lub makes things much easier. I usually spray the loaded ammo with alcohol and "see-saw" them in an old T-shirt to clean off the small amount of lubrication.

[Bazoo]

I’ll have to try some of these methods lubing when sizing, particularly the super clean or new brass. Thanks all for sharing.

[TXTad]

I almost always use my single stage presses. When I'm doing that, I'll just keep a bit of Redding Imperial sizing wax on the fingers of the hand I'm using to grab the cases and just smear a bit on as I handle them normally. This is more than enough to make them glide into the sizing die. I usually wet tumble after sizing to get the primer pockets clean, so I never have to worry about a little bit of residue on the cases.

[megasupermagnum]

A lot of the time I don't since it isn't needed for small runs. If I'm digging out the APP press for a longer run of sizing brass it's worth the effort. There is absolutely zero drawback to lube, and they size easier. Why not make it easier on yourself? All I do is spray some lube on the cases when they are in whatever bin is holding them, slosh them around a bit, spray some more, and that's about it.

[BBarn]

Never have. Saves me lubing, and removing, the lube.

[edler7]

45 Colt and 44 mag. They just size easier.

I wet tumble first, so they are squeaky clean. A dab of Imperial about every 3-4 cases does it. Dry tumble on cob for about 30 minutes to remove lube.

Takes a little longer, but time...I've got a lot of.

[Carrier]

It takes only a light spray of Hornady Case lube to make my press run so much smoother than without with pistol cases.
We can’t get Hornady One Shot Case Lube or One Shot Gun cleaner up here in commie Canada anymore due to a labeling issue. But I had bought a couple cases of each a few years ago and am pretty stingy with it.

[Kenstone]

I have posted here 2 times to date but feel I should expand on my previous comments because of the new posts about spray lube and finger rubbing of lube.
For me, spray lube is very difficult to control the amount, whether sprayed directly on brass or into an empty Ziploc.
I find the tumble lube method, I posted before to be much more effective in controlling the amount of lube that is unformally applied and can be adjusted via the amount of lube applied to the cotton patches.

If your results tend to be too much lube, you can squeeze the patches in a paper towel to remove excess lube, several times if needed, to get the results you want.
https://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?449339-Do-you-lube-handgun-brass-with-carbide-dies&p=5516651&viewfull=1#post5516651

You can lube a lot of brass quickly that way.
And as posted before, once I have the results of very minute amounts of lube, I don't bother to remove it as it aids in mag loading and gun function.

jmo,
:popcorn:
.

[Seeker]

No I don't. I deprime with the Lee universal and wet pin clean. I won't run dirty brass through any of my dies.

[porthos]

don't you guys think that ENOUGH has been said on this silly subject??????

[Bazoo]

I don’t. I’m learning tips and tricks. I had no idea so many folks lubed with carbide dies.

[megasupermagnum]

don't you guys think that ENOUGH has been said on this silly subject??????

Not at all. I'm open to anything that makes my job faster or easier, and I think it is pretentious of you to say lubing handgun cases is silly. I never would have thought of Kenstone's method of tumbling with some lubed patches or rags. That's a slick idea, I'm going to give it a try.

[Big Wes]

I'm amazed at how long this thread has been running too!

[TENMAN]

Do not lube cases for carbide dies. I tried that once and the case got stuck. I thought I would never get it out.

[Bazoo]

Not at all. I'm open to anything that makes my job faster or easier, and I think it is pretentious of you to say lubing handgun cases is silly. I never would have thought of Kenstone's method of tumbling with some lubed patches or rags. That's a slick idea, I'm going to give it a try.

Me too. That’s a slick trick.

[LAH]

Do not lube cases for carbide dies. I tried that once and the case got stuck. I thought I would never get it out.

Happens every time.

[Kenstone]

Do not lube cases for carbide dies. I tried that once and the case got stuck. I thought I would never get it out.

:dung_hits_fan:
:2_high5:
:kidding:

[megasupermagnum]

Do not lube cases for carbide dies. I tried that once and the case got stuck. I thought I would never get it out.

What were you using, gorilla glue? Lube can't do anything except make it easier.

[Big Wes]

Yes, I lube handgun brass but NOT with One Shot.
Not a fan of spraying brass with lube, so I "tumble-lube" with some cloths moistened with STP or Bag Balm.
I have been using the same premoistened cloths for 1000s of rounds without adding more lube.
Note the small hole poked into the STP foil top, easier to pour small amounts, and 20-year-old rags:
309171
Bag Balm:
309172
Square Plastic nut "jar":
309173
Actually, the rags are usually on at the bottom and the brass (more than pictured) is on top.
With the container about 1/3 full, I just screw on the top, grab it by the top, and swirl it around for 10-20 seconds to uniformly/lightly lube the brass.
no spray, no waiting to dry, no lube inside cases or in primer pockets, easy-peasy,
jmo,
[smilie=w:
Edit: I make no attempt to remove the lube after loading as it aids in the feeding/ejecting when fired.

This process is outstanding, after reading your post I went out to the shed and tried it out with Bag Balm, and a few pieces of rag. Excellent works like a charm. Thank you for the awesome tip.

[sukivel]

Yeah I learned a new way to try lubing cases as well….


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[lx2008]

i`m a sometimer...just when sizing large dia. brass ( .45, 44mag) makes the process smoother/easier.

[Kenstone]

This process is outstanding, after reading your post I went out to the shed and tried it out with Bag Balm, and a few pieces of rag. Excellent works like a charm. Thank you for the awesome tip.

Thanks for reading my post and I'm happy it worked out for you.
I'm also surprised you actually used Bag Balm instead of some other "case" lube. :bigsmyl2:
I'm not sure this will work for bottle neck cases though, never tried it, and don't load that stuff.
:2_high5:
.

[Big Wes]

I had a can of bag balm already and have used it on a RCBS lube pad. It worked well on the few 308 casings I threw in the container. I did squeeze out some excess lube with a paper towel as you recomended. I did have a bit to much on the rags.
Thanks again for the tip.

[n9tkf]

Never lube pistol brass or 350 legend brass. All other rifle casings I lube

[trapper9260]

Yes, I lube handgun brass but NOT with One Shot.
Not a fan of spraying brass with lube, so I "tumble-lube" with some cloths moistened with STP or Bag Balm.
I have been using the same premoistened cloths for 1000s of rounds without adding more lube.
Note the small hole poked into the STP foil top, easier to pour small amounts, and 20-year-old rags:
309171
Bag Balm:
309172
Square Plastic nut "jar":
309173
Actually, the rags are usually on at the bottom and the brass (more than pictured) is on top.
With the container about 1/3 full, I just screw on the top, grab it by the top, and swirl it around for 10-20 seconds to uniformly/lightly lube the brass.
no spray, no waiting to dry, no lube inside cases or in primer pockets, easy-peasy,
jmo,
[smilie=w:
Edit: I make no attempt to remove the lube after loading as it aids in the feeding/ejecting when fired.

Now I found another use for Bag Balm , thanks for the tip. I normally use it for my hand when they get dry and crack. now I got another use for it .

[upr45]

I do not lube brass, i do clean dies when new and when they get dirty. after cleaning i do spray then lightly wipe silicone spray, which is a lube.

[Bmi48219]

Short answer: yes

[pcmacd]

I do not. A recent thread though prompted a lot of folks saying that they did indeed lube pistol brass that is run through a carbide sizing die. It does make it easier but it is not needed unless you are using new or squeaky clean brass. For new brass I run it through my tumbler so there is a fine dust on the brass. This negates lubing for that first time.

I’m interested if it’s the norm for folks to lube pistol brass or not. I say not but I guess the poll results won’t lie.

I've Old School Dillon dies for 357, and I've found it is necessary to lube the cases so I don't get a buncha brass bulging at the head of the case.

This is the only exception. So, no. I don't normally lube brass for carbide dies.

[gloob]

I just find there's a bit of extra work to size 9mm due to the taper. And possibly due to the generous size of my 9mm chambers. I can size them without lube. And if I couldn't adjust the length of the lever on my press, I probably wouldn't bother with lube. But since I can with lube, I do. And then I can set the lever as short as with all my other pistol sizing to get a shorter quicker throw.

[LAH]

It is very true that carbine dies require no lube for what we commonly call straight wall cases. I'm in total agreement. The thought of lubing such cases for such dies never occurred to me until the conversation I had with a commercial loader. At that time he set a 5 gallon bucket of freshly tumbled brass on the floor. [His tumbler was some 6 foot high if memory serves]. He used a coffee can to pour that brass into another 5 gallon bucket. As he poured each can of brass he would spay it with Hornady One Shot. Once the brass was transferred from one bucket to the other he would then pour the lubed brass back & forth between the 2 buckets several times. After this the brass was left until time to load it. He used a 1050 Dillon for loading purposes & told me on a run of a bucket or 2 there was a very noticeable difference in the fatigue he experienced. I tried this & found his words to be true. For the hobby loader it is probably over kill but I do this for my 1050 & 550. I can sure tell a difference in the effort it takes. YMMV.

[Cap'n Caveman]

As a rule I do not however I ran into a problem loading the 10mm with Dillon dies. Called them and lube was always recommended by them no matter what.

[mdi]

Maybe after 135 posts, one may have noticed a consensus, but I didn't read all posts. On occasion I lightly lube some handgun cases, but nothing like bottle necked brass. Especially my 44 Magnum brass which is a bit harder to size than some of my other cases. After 100 or so 9mm cases, a bit of lube on one out of four or five makes it a bit easier on my arm...

[Pereira]

A waste of time to me.
Why even buy the carbide dies of your going to lube the cases any way?:popcorn:

RP

[Doughty]

Kenstone, Thanks for the tip. I deprime and then clean my .45 ACP cases with the wet stainless steel pin method. I lubed some old T shirt pieces with Bag Balm as you suggested. Put them in a mayonnaise jar with some clean cases and gave them a swirl. Could barely tell there was any lube on them but made a noticeable improvement with my CH Mark IV inline press. Worth the little extra effort to me.

[Kenstone]

Kenstone, Thanks for the tip. I deprime and then clean my .45 ACP cases with the wet stainless steel pin method. I lubed some old T shirt pieces with Bag Balm as you suggested. Put them in a mayonnaise jar with some clean cases and gave them a swirl. Could barely tell there was any lube on them but made a noticeable improvement with my CH Mark IV inline press. Worth the little extra effort to me.

Thanks for the acknowledgement.

Your results are exactly what they should be, barely noticeable amount of lube that I don't bother to remove as it aids in gun function.

I dropped some loaded rounds lubed that way at the range this week.
The dirt here is like talcum powder and those dropped rounds had a thin/even coating of dust stuck to the lube.
That dust confirmed the presence of lube, I set them aside and shot something else and cleaned that dust off when I got back home.

It's surprising how that minute amount of lube aids the loading and shooting process.
Post back after you have shot them as I'm interested in knowing if anything changes relative to tumbling/removing the Bag Balm.
Ken

[megasupermagnum]

A waste of time to me.
Why even buy the carbide dies of your going to lube the cases any way?:popcorn:

RP

If I could buy steel dies, I would.

[mdi]

A waste of time to me.
Why even buy the carbide dies of your going to lube the cases any way?:popcorn:

RP
Read the post directly above yours. Just one reason I , and many others, occasionally use lube on carbide dies (can one even find plain old steel sizing dies for handgun calibers today?). Not entirely necessary, but makes resizing some calibers much easier. Lubing handgun brass is different than bottle necked cases, which with steel sizing dies is absolutely necessary and needs to cover more of the case...

[45_Colt]

From RCBS, for non-shouldered cartridges:

https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1011444424?pid=385463
https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1012058164?pid=453373


Hornady:

https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1011098266?pid=519048


Lee:

https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1011214925?pid=454495

I am sure there are others. But steel dies are still common. And, folks are selling them so that is another source for regular steel dies.

45_Colt

[Chena]

I was never happier at the reloading bench than the day I switched to a carbide sizing die for .44 Special and stopped lubing the cases.

[pa.frank]

I know it isn't needed, but I find it easier or smoother when sizing.. I toss all my cases to be sized in a big plastic tupperware tub and give it a light spray of Hoenady One Shot spray case lube.. Works for me

[megasupermagnum]

From RCBS, for non-shouldered cartridges:

https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1011444424?pid=385463
https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1012058164?pid=453373


Hornady:

https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1011098266?pid=519048


Lee:

https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1011214925?pid=454495

I am sure there are others. But steel dies are still common. And, folks are selling them so that is another source for regular steel dies.

45_Colt
Not a single handgun caliber offered unless you count the special order cowboy 44 special or 45 colt for $75.

So much for steel being cheaper.

[gsbair]

Lube 9mm with carbide die. Much easier with large batch

[45_Colt]

Not a single handgun caliber offered unless you count the special order cowboy 44 special or 45 colt for $75.

So much for steel being cheaper.

9x21 is not a straight wall handgun cartridge? 45-70 not a straight wall cartridge that is also used in handguns?

There are others that could also be had in carbide. But again, you miss the fact that there are a ton of used dies for straight wall cartridges that are up for sale...

Then, as you mentioned, steel cowboy straight wall handgun dies in steel are available. You sink your own argument.

45_Colt

[megasupermagnum]

9x21 is not a straight wall handgun cartridge? 45-70 not a straight wall cartridge that is also used in handguns?

There are others that could also be had in carbide. But again, you miss the fact that there are a ton of used dies for straight wall cartridges that are up for sale...

Then, as you mentioned, steel cowboy straight wall handgun dies in steel are available. You sink your own argument.

45_Colt

Fine, whatever you say. Steel 9mm Luger, 45 acp, 357 mag, 44 mag, etc. dies have not been available on the shelf in my lifetime. Those steel cowboy dies are not available, they are special order. With enough money anything is possible. For the common person, carbide dies are the ONLY dies that exist anymore. If they were as common as you say, I surely would have seen them before. I've NEVER seen a steel handgun sizing die other than some old pre 60's era mentions in old reloading manuals.

[Bazoo]

I have seen and have some steel handgun dies, but they are all 60s era or older. Best I recall, even into the 80s, it was possible to obtain steel dies, as the stock remained on shelves for quite some time after they became obsolete.

[LAH]

I use steel RCBS 45 Colt dies.

[Dekota56]

I lube all the brass when reloading

[Doughty]

Yesterday I fired 50 of the .45 ACP cartridges that I had loaded with lubed cases in my CH Mark IV with carbide sizer. All loaded and fired with no problems. Many of the fired cases fell in the snow or water with no harm to the cases. Maybe if it was dry and dusty there might have been a problem. For the time being I will continue to load with the lubed cases. If a problem develops this summer, I will report back.

[Bazoo]

Thanks Doughty.

I am about to do some testing with some new brass to figure out a method that I really like. I will be trying the KenStone method too.

[pcmacd]

I do not. A recent thread though prompted a lot of folks saying that they did indeed lube pistol brass that is run through a carbide sizing die. It does make it easier but it is not needed unless you are using new or squeaky clean brass. For new brass I run it through my tumbler so there is a fine dust on the brass. This negates lubing for that first time.

I’m interested if it’s the norm for folks to lube pistol brass or not. I say not but I guess the poll results won’t lie.

I routinely LIGHTLY lube 30 carbine (RCBS carbide) and 38/357 (Dillon carbide) cases, as the dies leave a bulge just in front of the head w/o the lube. I usually use the Dillon or Midway spray on lube, lightly lightly and lightly.

Other pistol calibers do not require lube in my other Lee, Dillon, Hornady, Redding and RCBS dies.

[gnappi]

I'd rather get COVID than lube and clean my brass after sizing :-)

[rbwillnj]

Sometimes. Tapered cases like 9MM or 30 Carbine go much easier with lube. New Starline brass can be very difficult to size and lube is almost essential. Subsequent sizings of Starline go much easier.

I use Hornady OneShot spray lube. I spray it into a bin of cases and stir them. I don't try to coat every case, just distribute some of the lube through the bin.

Star's recommendation for tapered cases was to dip your fingers in some lanoline, then stir the bin of cases with your fingers. Pretty much the same thing I do.

[35 Rem]

Not having to Lube is the only reason I buy a Carbide Sizer. No way I'm going to lube anyway.

[Jtarm]

Nope.

When using an oversized expander plug, I sometimes lube the case mouths a bit by dipping in some dry Mica.

[Bazoo]

It's been an interesting discussion thus far. I'm going to be processing some new brass shortly and I'll have to lube them with something, probably a spritz of One Shot.

[Jtarm]

Fine, whatever you say. Steel 9mm Luger, 45 acp, 357 mag, 44 mag, etc. dies have not been available on the shelf in my lifetime. Those steel cowboy dies are not available, they are special order. With enough money anything is possible. For the common person, carbide dies are the ONLY dies that exist anymore. If they were as common as you say, I surely would have seen them before. I've NEVER seen a steel handgun sizing die other than some old pre 60's era mentions in old reloading manuals.

My circa 1974 .357 RCBS set came with a steel sizer.

I very quickly replaced it with carbide and have never lubed straight-walled pistol cases.

I especially don’t get the comment about lubing new brass. If straight-walled virgin pistol cases don’t go through a carbide sizer smooth as a knife through warm butter, I’d say something’s wrong.

[Bazoo]

My experience is that new brass galls unless lubed. I've had it happen with both new starline 44 brass, and with used but squeaky clean 45 auto brass that was wet tumbled. First it gets a little harder to size and then you start noticing elongated scratch marks on your brass. If you keep going, the scratches get worse.

[Rimfire McNutjob]

I will put two spritzes of Brass Juice on 100 new Starline 45 Colt cases and toss them for a bit in a Tupperware bowl before running them through the progressive even with the carbide dies.

[Texas by God]

I’ve never sized new unprimed brass-rifle or pistol. I just chamfer necks,prime, charge, and seat the bullet.
That aside, I have lubed cases for carbide dies and it smooths it up, of course.
But I usually don’t.


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[Finster101]

A shot of spay on them before being dumped into the case feeder sure makes the press run smoother. Is it necessary? Probably not, but it isn't going to hurt anything either.

[Walter Laich]

Being OCD, and wanting every new tool/machine on the market I fell in love with wet-tumbled brass--looks like brand new!

the downside (one of several) was the brass really benefits from lube--I use Hornady One-Shot and have noticed they have gotten proud of it--check their prices

[Finster101]

Being OCD, and wanting every new tool/machine on the market I fell in love with wet-tumbled brass--looks like brand new!

the downside (one of several) was the brass really benefits from lube--I use Hornady One-Shot and have noticed they have gotten proud of it--check their prices



Easy to make your own alcohol/lanolin lube mixture to spray.

[j4570]

Sometimes. I find a little lube once in a while particularly with thicker cases like 44 mag. Almost never on 9mm or such.

[Bmi48219]

I prep all my brass before storing it so yeah, lubing the brass keeps it from tarnishing.

[dankathytc]

Dave, have you perhaps noticed that many cartridge case manufacturers, and virtually all loading manuals recommend sizing new brass? Even Lapua and Starline, 2 of the best manufactures, state that brass cases are manufactured in large quantities and while strict quality control measures are taken to assure uniformity, all new cases benefit from being resized. Light spray lubing can help prevent metallic particle buildup from damaging or marring case and dies.Very little effort to insure dies and brass longevity.

[TXTad]

I prep all my brass before storing it so yeah, lubing the brass keeps it from tarnishing.

This is true.

[TXTad]

Dave, have you perhaps noticed that many cartridge case manufacturers, and virtually all loading manuals recommend sizing new brass? Even Lapua and Starline, 2 of the best manufactures, state that brass cases are manufactured in large quantities and while strict quality control measures are taken to assure uniformity, all new cases benefit from being resized. Light spray lubing can help prevent metallic particle buildup from damaging or marring case and dies.Very little effort to insure dies and brass longevity.

This is also true. I've sized every piece of brass I've ever loaded and it's always worked well for me.

[scattershot]

I do occasionally,just makes things run smoothly .

[M-Tecs]

Being OCD, and wanting every new tool/machine on the market I fell in love with wet-tumbled brass--looks like brand new!

the downside (one of several) was the brass really benefits from lube--I use Hornady One-Shot and have noticed they have gotten proud of it--check their prices

Same for me coupled with mostly using progressives Hornady One-Shot doesn't gum up the press. Hornady One-Shot is basically wax. Due to cost I am starting to look for alternatives that work the same as Hornady One-Shot

[Ken 45LC]

I use it on the larger cases like 44 mag and 45 colt. I don’t on the 9mm, 40, or 45acp.

[firewhenready7]

I never lube pistol brass in carbide dies

[Bazoo]

Very interesting replies here. I am surprised that there is such a large bracket of people that do lube even if it's sometimes, with only 50% being in the do not lube category.

[pa.frank]

I do lube my cases lightly even when using carbide dies. I find they go through the die much smoother and it feels easier pumping that press handle especially if I'm doing a few hundred at a time, and I usually am.
After I size and bell the case mouth, they hit the tumbler for a good cleaning and polish. I like my ammo pretty. :)

[BD]

I use a real mix of brass, and I use carbide dies. I have about a five gallon pail of .45acp, some dating back to the '40s, some shot so many times it's hard to make out the headstamp. I shoot it all summer and process it all in the fall for the next year. I wash it in soap and water, dry it in the sun and tumble it in corncob grit along with a shot of "cleaner wax". Never trimmed a .45acp case, never lubed one either. Never had an issue.

[wilecoyote]

I lube all, everytime_ carbide or not_ very proud of my lube-greased hands when I size my cleaned brass_
my t-shirt works as ready-rag-at-hand_

[Bill Allen]

I never lube with carbide dies when loading handgun. Loaded quite a few rounds never saw any reason

[greybuff]

I just run them thru my case vibrator w/auto polish from wally world and than run them thu my dies. Never had an issue w/any of the pistol barass and carbide dies.

[ioon44]

I give my brass a light mist of Hornady One-Shot, just makes my 550-run smoother and the expander doesn't drag as hard with super clean wet tumbled brass.

[Soundguy]

I lightly lube brass even if they are in carbide or TiN dies. Sometimes it's just lube on my fingers.. sometimes a lean mist.. sometimes every 5th case.. etc. cases run smoother less heat.. etc..

[hermans]

I give my brass a light mist of Hornady One-Shot, just makes my 550-run smoother and the expander doesn't drag as hard with super clean wet tumbled brass.

After reading most of the posts here......I did exactly this yesterday loading 9mm's on my Dillon XL650. I first loaded about 30 rounds with cases sprayed with a light coat of Hornady OneShot, and than another 30 with cases straight from my dry tumbler as per usual.
To be honest.......I could not feel any difference whatsoever.....so I will will just carry on as before, loading them without any lube.
I do think that if I try this experiment with my 550 while loading 45acp rounds, there could be a significant difference since the 45 case requires a lot more effort to size compared to the rather small 9mm cases?? I will do that and report my finding.

[sukivel]

After reading most of the posts here......I did exactly this yesterday loading 9mm's on my Dillon XL650. I first loaded about 30 rounds with cases sprayed with a light coat of Hornady OneShot, and than another 30 with cases straight from my dry tumbler as per usual.
To be honest.......I could not feel any difference whatsoever.....so I will will just carry on as before, loading them without any lube.
I do think that if I try this experiment with my 550 while loading 45acp rounds, there could be a significant difference since the 45 case requires a lot more effort to size compared to the rather small 9mm cases?? I will do that and report my finding.

I can’t tell the difference on 9, 40, 45, and usually 38/357 on my 550.


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[porthos]

dosen't anyone have anything else to say? its been 10 pages of a mostly useless subject.

[Bazoo]

I tried the Ken Stone method and didn’t care for it. It left too much lube and got the brass all black when sized. I’ll have to give it another go with minimal lube before discounting it since so many others like it.

[czgunner]

I find the Hornady one shot case lube to be ideal for pistol die operation.

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[Kenstone]

I tried the Ken Stone method and didn’t care for it. It left too much lube and got the brass all black when sized. I’ll have to give it another go with minimal lube before discounting it since so many others like it.

Sorry to hear that. :(
I'm guessing too much lube.
Wrap the clothe pieces up in some paper towels and squeeze out most of the lube...
What lube did you use?
Thanks for posting,

[Bazoo]

Sorry to hear that. :(
I'm guessing too much lube.
Wrap the clothe pieces up in some paper towels and squeeze out most of the lube...
What lube did you use?
Thanks for posting,

Thank you for the tip. I had used Imperial Sizing Wax on a couple of cleaning patches. I do have a tendency to use too much lube. So you do almost dry?

[LAH]

I find the subject interesting & it answered Bazoo question about is it the norm to lube pistol brass. I agree with Bazoo, it’s not the norm. The only loaders I know personally who lube pistol brass going into a carbide die are commercial loaders who crank out loads of ammo. After speaking to folks like Lee Jurras & a few others I decided to try it myself. You can take a coffee can of brass from a bucket & as you pour it into another bucket spray said brass. When your first bucket is empty & the second one full you pour the brass between the two buckets a few times & let it dry for a day or so. I then fill my collator with the dry, lubed brass.

After years of loading, I can feel the difference even with short cases like the 9MM but you feel the difference much more in the longer cases such as the 38/357. Adding some lube makes a difference & reduces friction most anywhere it is tried.

Is it necessary? No, especially for the hobby loaders. I loaded without it for years. And like I said there is no one I know personally who lube the brass cases like I do except the commercial guys. I have found the thread interesting in reading the way others think & do things & so some of this information is useful to me. And thank you guys for all the typing & thank you Bazoo for the subject.

[porthos]

don't you guys think that 10 pages of this is enough!!!!

[LAH]

I find the Hornady one shot case lube to be ideal for pistol die operation.

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk

This is what I normally use. Love the stuff.

[Bazoo]

I once sized 450 44 Magnum cases without lube using a Lee Handpress. It took me about a week of working on it, which is one reason I was wondering how common it is to lube pistol brass.

[LAH]

I once sized 450 44 Magnum cases without lube using a Lee Handpress. It took me about a week of working on it, which is one reason I was wondering how common it is to lube pistol brass.

Geez, sore hands. I never had a hand press. I did have a Lee Loader through.

[vrod1023]

I always lube because I've had a number of stuck cases...which is no fun at all, momentum killer.

[murf205]

I usually lube about every 3rd case and the residual lube helps the next 2 slide.

[Bazoo]

Geez, sore hands. I never had a hand press. I did have a Lee Loader through.

Give you popeye arms for sure.

[Bazoo]

I always lube because I've had a number of stuck cases...which is no fun at all, momentum killer.

Howdy, Have you had stuck pistol cases in carbide dies?

[Kai]

Never.

[Winger Ed.]

I've mangled up a few that went up into the die crooked,
but I don't there is enough surface area on the carbide ring
to really get a good grip on a case like the non-carbide ones do.

[Three44s]

It's a mixed bag for me. I generally lube because I am reducing wear on the brass by doing so. However since the cases will not sieze in carbide dies I am not as dillegent about lubing as I would be with non carbide dies.

Three44s

[Bazoo]

I appreciate all the replies here. I actually didn't realized it would be nearly half of the votes that use some form of lube with carbide dies.

With so many that DO lube handgun cases, do you still avoid using the older steel dies? Or, do you not mind them since you're lubing anyways?

[Winger Ed.]

In the old days, you had to buy a carbide die separately, and it cost about as much as the set of standard dies.
When Lee sold their sets on the cheap with the carbide sizer included, it didn't take long for the other companies
to get with the program, and standard straight wall sizers became obsolete.

I haven't used a standard straight wall sizer since the early 90s.

[Rapier]

Yes lke this: Return from a shoot, dump fired brass in big blue, turn on and clean the guns, go eat. Turn the cleaner off. Next day or so, turn on the cleaner and scoop out the clean and polished brass. Lube 10-12 pieces on a pad, run two lubed through the carbide die then run a dozen or so unlubed, then one lubed, another dozen unlubed, etc. With a slightly modified Dillon 550B and a seal a meal I have about 500 reloaded rounds, packaged and ready to go to the next outing.

[Three44s]

I try to have carbide sizers where ever they are available.

The exception is 223 Rem. I suspect you still have to lube those anyway.

Three44s

[Wayne Smith]

I voted sometimes, because with 9mm or 45 it's about every fourth or fifth one. Just enough to keep a little lube in the die.

[warren5421]

I lube as it is just easier to run it through the dies.

[jrayborn]

No reason to lube really but for me it sure makes pulling the handle easier. I give a (very) quick blast of Hornady's One Shot when I size and de-prime prior to wet tumbling.

[GarrettP1]

I lube with WD40.

It's extremely watery, and I only need a tiny bit.
It's not necessary, but so much of my life is spent on unnecessary things.
It just makes the resizing smoother and faster.

That said, I only do this when I'm reloading hundreds of cases. WD40 is a primer killer, so I drop the resized brass in soapy water, agitate, rinse and dry. It's very little extra work for 1000 cases. It's too much trouble for 20 cartridges that I'm trying a new formula on.

[Walstr]

Guess I kinda lube. After citric acid cleaning & rinsing & drying, they're put in my Thumlers tumbler w/cAse polish. That makes a nice difference w/45 Colt & 45ACP brass.

[SeabeeMan]

Generally no. But I've found some cases in some dies just don't seem to agree, requiring more upwards force on the handle and my operation of the press isn't as smooth as I'd like. This is when the Hornady One Shot comes out and a little spray gets added to the case feeder.

[Bazoo]

Guess I kinda lube. After citric acid cleaning & rinsing & drying, they're put in my Thumlers tumbler w/cAse polish. That makes a nice difference w/45 Colt & 45ACP brass.

I too have found that brass that's new or has been wet tumbled is much easier to process after a trip through the tumbler with some case polish. Before I started using a tumbler I also found that brass that's got a little bit of soot left from firing sizes easier.

[Winger Ed.]

I also found that brass that's got a little bit of soot left from firing sizes easier.

I've noticed Unique leaves a fair amount of soot.
I've always wondered if it was partly graphite from the powder being coated with it.

[Bird]

I don't lube. I now wet tumble with pins in a wash and wax solution. When dry, cases size easily, with the added benefit of oxidizing protection during storage.

[Bazoo]

I've noticed Unique leaves a fair amount of soot.
I've always wondered if it was partly graphite from the powder being coated with it.

I had not thought of that, the graphite thing, thanks Ed. That makes a lot of sense.

[Bazoo]

I don't lube. I now wet tumble with pins in a wash and wax solution. When dry, cases size easily, with the added benefit of oxidizing protection during storage.

I use case polish with my vibratory tumbler. I never thought about it until now, that it was probably the polish that makes the cases size easier rather than the fine dust left on the cases. I always had assumed it was the dust.

[Winger Ed.]

I feel vindicated!

We've been led to believe ya got a carbide sizer to avoid lubing the cases.
Hmm, maybe there is more to it than that..

I've been having 'issues' with my Hornady taper crimp die, and gave up on it. It says its for 9mm and .38spec.
For 9mm, its fine. For .38s- it does OK if you don't mind the hole being too small, and crushing the cases.

So I got a Redding taper crimp die just for .38s. It seems like it'll be fine.
In the little instruction sheet with it--- even if that is a direct violation of Man Law rule #1,,, I read it.
They recommend lubing the cases for it to work the best. I was surprised and researched it.

Going through archives on several other forums, lubing cases with carbide dies is way more common,
and recommended, more so than I thought.
Both for the ease of sizing, less wear & tear on the sizer, as well as for taper crimping.

I don't, and won't lube pistol brass like I do for rifles, but with my practice of laying out a few hundred,
then doing a quick and light spray of One Shot makes me feel like I re-invented the wheel.

[Bazoo]

I feel vindicated!

We've been led to believe ya got a carbide sizer to avoid lubing the cases.
Hmm, maybe there is more to it than that..

I've been having 'issues' with my Hornady taper crimp die, and gave up on it. It says its for 9mm and .38spec.
For 9mm, its fine. For .38s- it does OK if you don't mind the hole being too small, and crushing the cases.

So I got a Redding taper crimp die just for .38s. It seems like it'll be fine.
In the little instruction sheet with it--- even if that is a direct violation of Man Law rule #1,,, I read it.
They recommend lubing the cases for it to work the best. I was surprised and researched it.

Going through archives on several other forums, lubing cases with carbide dies is way more common,
and recommended, more so than I thought.
Both for the ease of sizing, less wear & tear on the sizer, as well as for taper crimping.

I don't, and won't lube pistol brass like I do for rifles, but with my practice of laying out a few hundred,
then doing a quick and light spray of One Shot makes me feel like I re-invented the wheel.

Thanks for sharing you're findings. I have never heard of lube helping with the crimp die. It makes sense though. Interesting that Redding suggests it.

[LAH]

I feel vindicated!

I don't, and won't lube pistol brass like I do for rifles, but with my practice of laying out a few hundred,
then doing a quick and light spray of One Shot makes me feel like I re-invented the wheel.

It makes a difference.

[delftshooter]

If the cases are squeaky clean, citric acid wash.. yeah i do.. brand new brass yeah i do.. give the die a quick squirt of that hornady spray lube, and since i process in batches i just do 10% of the run as lubed, and every 10th case i run through is a lubed one.

[Kentucky146]

I do I mix lanolin and 90% alcohol as my lube. I know one really does not have to with carbide dies. Early in I learned what 1 stuck case can do, and how it can be a set back or a total loss of die and time after the witness of that I lube no matter pistol/rifle carbide die or non carbide, I will say to each his/her/other own.

[Bazoo]

I appreciate all the replies and responses to the poll. It’s quite enlightening to see so many people that do lube handgun brass.

[Hometek]

I lube about every 20 cases with carbide dies. I have a container of imperial sizing wax and touch a finger to it and roll a case between my fingers and then wiping the edge of the case in a way that leaves a very small small amount of wax on the inside of the case opening. Makes the press run so smooth and everything seems work better when there isn't as much force needed to work the loading arm. This is on a Dillon 550 with Dillon carbide dies.

[LenH]

I lube every 10 or more brass. As soon as the handle gets a bit stiff I hit the next case with a little lube.
I have had the same tub of Hornady Unique for about 15 years. A little goes a long way.

[Winger Ed.]

I have had the same tub of Hornady Unique for about 15 years. A little goes a long way.

I had one that came in a 007 single stage press kit I bought back in the early 80s.
There was still a little left in it when the plastic tub just fell apart 5-6 years ago.