How to use target turret on scope

[nekshot]

I recently found a scope I forgot I had. It is a Bushnell Prime 4-12x40mm with target turret. I mounted it and kinda would like to try using this turret thingy. It goes against my religion to frivously move scope adjustment after sighted in, and yes I am a old fart that does not care for new fads or change just to change to stay in style. How do you fellas use this turret thing after scope is sighted in?

[txbirdman]

All my scopes with target turrets allow some means of setting the turrets back to “zero” after sight in. Sometimes there’s a set screw or 3 in the turret that can be loosened to allow for the reset. Another scope I have is spring loaded so that you can lift up the turret cap and spin it to zero. I tend to prefer a Nikon I have that has cap covers over the adjustment turrets though.

[stubshaft]

When I shot silhouette, I used target turrets on my Leupolds. Once I sighted it in at the closest targets (50 yards for pistols) I would set the knob to "0" and then zero in at the longer ranges making sure that I recorded the markings of each one. Then it was a simple matter of turning the knob to the desired range and letting loose.

[txbirdman]

For long range rifle shooting there are several companies (Vortex; Hornady; Berger) that have downloadable software that allows you to put in the proper data for bc; velocity; wind speed; etc to determine the bullet drop and wind drift in mils or moa. Then it’s a matter of adjusting the turrets and confirming the results by shooting

[gc45]

On another point: most all low cost scopes having turrets use plastic or alum parts that do not repeat very well. leupold and I believe Redfield have always used steel parts for the purpose of repeatability and I would hope they still are made that way. I doubt Asian scopes use steel turret interiors but most all the Euro scopes did at one time and maybe still do.

[nekshot]

This gun i sight in at 300 yards and do not shoot much longer because of the landscape. Do you think this scope is the right scope for it. It’s a 7mm rem mag. If I site on at 100 yards that is too much for me to think about when shooting at game if I must turn the knob to suit yardage. Maybe this is a target only scope for me. The older I get the less to fiddle with with when hunting is better.

[Winger Ed.]

There are different inserts for the turret on that one.
A chart comes with the scope that tells which ring to use for which factory round.

They are sort of 'calibrated' for different amounts of drop at the different ranges.
If you have the wrong one in for what you shoot- they can be worse than than not having the adjustment scale at all.

If you're shooting at less than a couple hundred yards, they really aren't worth fooling with.

[Rapier]

Could get a scope that adjusts and repeats then determine that actual scope click adjustments. Then put the click adjustments to 800 at 50 or 25 increments on the front bell under clear packing tape. Coupled with a laser range finder makes a decent combination. Especially good for peanut or corn fields and crow size things at distance.

[stubshaft]

This gun i sight in at 300 yards and do not shoot much longer because of the landscape. Do you think this scope is the right scope for it. It’s a 7mm rem mag. If I site on at 100 yards that is too much for me to think about when shooting at game if I must turn the knob to suit yardage. Maybe this is a target only scope for me. The older I get the less to fiddle with with when hunting is better.

I sight in my 7mm Mag to shoot 2 1/2" high at 100 yards and just put the crosshairs where I want to hit out to 300 yards. Like yourself, I don't really care about the BC, earths rotation in relation to the target or how many mils the game is at. I put the crosshairs on the shoulder and shoot!

[BadgerShooter]

When I set up a rifle that can be used past its point blank capability, I zero at 100 and set up either Burris Posi-line rings with offsets or use tapered bases to put my 100 yard zero within the first rotation of the scope adjuster from the bottom. Then I set the set the zero marks to match. If you are winding and get lost, you can always run the adjuster all the way down and come back to the first zero - your 100 yard zero.

Then I figure out what the point blank is for the load I'm shooting. Usually I end up about 2.75" up from my 100 yard zero. With most modern high velocity centerfires, this will give you a point blank range from 225 to 275 yards. Of course there are some exceptions. This is what I refer to as my walking around zero. I have my drop and wind data on Leupold or Allison Pathfinders which attach to the scope. If a shot needs to be taken past your point blank range, dial and shoot. The farther the range, the more time you usually have to adjust. With a lot of new scopes with the mil-dot or similar reticles, you can also figure "Mil-Holds" for ranges past point blank. Works good with practice to take longer shots faster in the field if necessary. As with anything, purposeful practice helps immensely.