.38 Rimfire Reloading

[36g]

I managed to pick up a Remington Rider 1858 Belt Pistol (a double action 1858 Remington) that is a cartridge conversion to .38 Rimfire. I've seen the Belgian reloader with the turned brass cartridges and using a .22 RF blank as a primer. Are there other options to loading .38 RF? I already have dies for .38 Colt (38 Centerfire) and a mold for heeled bullets for that. Suggestions?

[elmacgyver0]

Would it be possible to drill out a 38 shell for a 22 brass (I don't know what fits) 38spl would be ideal if it would fit as, it is cheap.
If you could do that you could use the acorn blanks or replace priming in spent 22 shells with the 22 reloader prime-all or use the non-corrosive mixture from aardvark reloading.

[Lostinidaho]

Would it be possible to drill out a 38 shell for a 22 brass (I don't know what fits) 38spl would be ideal if it would fit as, it is cheap.
If you could do that you could use the acorn blanks or replace priming in spent 22 shells with the 22 reloader prime-all or use the non-corrosive mixture from aardvark reloading.

Thats what I did for my .38 rimfire. The primer pocket has to be filled and a new pocket for the acorn cap drilled off center.

If your hammer spring is strong enough and the firing pin on the hammer is tall enough you might get away with a .27 rimfire powder actuator shell.

Search for re-loadable .32 rimfire on this site. pages of posts with excellent information. There is also a facebook group for Obsolete Rimfire Cartridges.

ndnchf is a member here. He is one of the rimfire gurus.

[AntiqueSledMan]

Hello 38g,

Other than converting your revolver to center-fire (I wouldn't),
I'm thinking your stuck with the rim-fire.
Of course the offset primer might be a pain, I see no alternative.
Of course there is a lot written on the .32 reloading, but I'm sure you'll find info on the .38 as well.
As you already have the setup for .38 Colts, your only hurdle will be the primer.
Personally I'd thread a brass plug into the original primer pocket, then build a fixture to drill the new primer hole. I'd also use either Black Powder or a Sub. I use Black MZ in my conversion revolvers (discontinued), either American Pioneer Powder or Shooters World Multi-Purpose Black would work well without bullet lubrication.
If one could run across original rim-fire cases, you could give re-priming a shot.
Sounds like a lot of messing around, but guys are doing it.

AntiqueSledMan.

[Ajohns]

Depending how many rounds you want on hand, or how often you may shoot it, you may want to check into Roberson Brass. It's not cheap, but ready to go

[smokinbarrel]

I am experimenting with the 38RF in an old revolver. I got 10 reloadable brass with it, they are Roberson or similar. I found info online saying that you can use the #2 (brown) ramset cartridges in 32 RF with no additional propellant. I tried this in the 38. It seems quite anemic. I am casting 130gr Lee .375 bullets then turning a heel on them in my lathe. Penetration into a dry fir plank at 6' is about flush with the base. I would be interested in any other results and what sort of penetration you get.I am going to see if I can find anyone local with a chronograph to see what sort of velocity I'm getting. Might be able to go one level higher with the Ramsets, but experimenting is tricky business, not knowing what kind of pressure you are developing in a 150 yr old fairly light revolver.

[ndnchf]

Check out my Antique Firearms youtube channel. I have a two part video showing how I convert centerfire cases to reloadable rimfire.

https://youtube.com/playlist?list=PLaI37ff_Xx68Gt1PeoXtvKtcAr3VWEUrT

[36g]

Check out my Antique Firearms youtube channel. I have a two part video showing how I convert centerfire cases to reloadable rimfire.

https://youtube.com/playlist?list=PLaI37ff_Xx68Gt1PeoXtvKtcAr3VWEUrT

I've watched your videos and appreciate the information. I'm thinking of doing something similar with the possible addition of a plug of poured polyurethane in the base of a cut down .38 Special brass to provide a bit more support to the .22 RF blank. I plan on using a .22 RF chamber reamer to cut the space for the .22 blank which will also cut the proper rim clearance (which may need to be opened a bit for hammer clearance). If needed, a spot of fingernail polish or something similar may be needed to hold the blank in place after assembling the cartridge.

[ndnchf]

I've watched your videos and appreciate the information. I'm thinking of doing something similar with the possible addition of a plug of poured polyurethane in the base of a cut down .38 Special brass to provide a bit more support to the .22 RF blank. I plan on using a .22 RF chamber reamer to cut the space for the .22 blank which will also cut the proper rim clearance (which may need to be opened a bit for hammer clearance). If needed, a spot of fingernail polish or something similar may be needed to hold the blank in place after assembling the cartridge.

FWIW - with a soldered in brass plug, I've found no need for additional support, it is plenty strong. I use a .224" chucking reamer for the .22 acorn blank hole. This makes for a nice press fit of the blank. In an ideal world, the perfect thing would be a .22 chamber reamer, but made to cut the body at .224". That would cut the whole thing at once and give the nice press fit for the blank.

[uscra112]

A standard .22 RF reamer will leave the body hole too loose to retain the nailgun round. Been there, done that. I had Dave Manson modify one by grinding the body diameter down to make a light press fit, and I use acorn caps with a small powder charge, rather than nailgun blanks. More expensive, but punching out the spent ones is a lot easier on the brass.