Recommend first flintlock

[glockky]

Looking to purchase my first flintlock. From my reading I can see that I don’t wanna go with a cheap one unfortunately. I really hate to spend over 1K on a flintlock just to see if I enjoy it.

Any recommendations on a budget flintlock that’s not junk?

[LAGS]

If I was you,
I would look into the Pedersolli rifles.
They offer many different models.
So far I am happy with the .32 Cub kit that I bought

[Hannibal]

If I was you,
I would look into the Pedersolli rifles.
They offer many different models.
So far I am happy with the .32 Cub kit that I bought

I second this recommendation. If you want a project and are good with your hands you can buy a kit and save a little extra $$$ as well. I recently purchased a kit and all the inletting was done and done well. It needed the brass parts sanded and polished plus the stock sanded to match the metal parts. Stained and sealed the stock. Still need to finish the barrel as I want to shoot it first because I may decide on different sights. Overall a very nice kit that I'm very pleased with.
If you don't want to do it yourself they also offer fully finished rifles.

[gmsharps]

A Jim Chambers kit is a good kit with quality parts

gmsharps

[stubshaft]

The key element to shooting a flinchlock is to get one with a good lock. A cheap lock will give you fits trying to make it work and fire consistently. I believe this is what turns off most people to enjoying flintlock weapons. Paying for a quality gun will allow you to make a comprehensive decision whether or not you like flinters. Besides, you can usually sell a quality rifle for about what you paid for it if you decide you don't care for it.

[Gray Fox]

I know it's not of the period, but for the price the Lyman Deerstalker in .50 shoots round ball well, even with its 1:48 twist barrel. I don't know the provenance of the lock, but with the English black flints I got from Track of the Wolf they sure do spark nicely and set off a moderate pan of ffffg priming power. It even comes with a removeable touch hole. Obviously, if you are after a period looking arm this won't do, but I'm hoping to use it on deer this fall along with my Lyman .54 Great Plains Rifle cap lock. I'd sure like to find one of those in flint. Just my two cents. GF

[Jeff Michel]

You might consider a T/C Hawken or a Lyman Great Plains. They have pretty good locks and are reasonably priced. Pedersoli's are pricey and their lock springs would work pretty good on a half ton truck. I have two and both could shatter flints with amazing ease. Had to lighten the springs in both and they work fine now. Jim Kibler makes a real nice kit, I put together one of his Southern Mountain rifles in .40 and it works super. The kit is completely designed around a novice builder. Again, a bit pricey but you will likely find that most of your better quality flinters are a bit more money. They take a bit of getting use to but once you get them figured out they are a blast. Good luck.

[LAGS]

The TC Hawkins are pretty good.
But they don't make them any more.
But it is a good choice if you want to start with a used rifle.
The Traditions Work.
But not that great unless you know what issues to look for.

[bedbugbilly]

If you don't want to build one from scratch or kit - just want to get your feet wet but with a decent rifle - - then look at a TC Hawken - there are good used ones out there - or a Lyman Great Plains - you can find good used ones as well. The lock is the heart of the rifle - take a look at Track Of The Wolf to get an idea of the L & R replacement locks that drop in - they make them for a variety of production rifles.

I had a 50 cal Lyman GP Rifle in flint - it shot very well and had no issues with the lock - gave a good shower of sparks.

You are in Kentuck - should go to the Nationals at Friendship - you'd see a number of used rifles there for sale as well as new. Good luck and have fun - nothing like a good flintlock!

[siamese4570]

+1 on the lyman great plains rifle. I have a 54 caliber. Works well.
Siamese4570

[36g]

Take a look on GunBroker - they usually have a good selection of new and used flinters from many different makers.

[Sasquatch-1]

Keep an eye out at the local pawn brokers. The ones near me will sometimes take in traditional muzzleloaders with other firearms and have trouble selling them. Seems the majority of people want in-lines for hunting and the shops have trouble selling the sidelocks. I picked up a T/C Renegade cap lock for $100.00 a few years ago.

[freakonaleash]

Kibler

[Hannibal]

The OP is trying to avoid spending $1K on his first flintlock and I certainly understand that.

[eastbank]

tc rifles are pretty good, their frizzens not so much, i changed out every tc frizzen on all the tc FL,s i ever bought. i have been shooting rmc flint for a few years now and with black english flint and the L&R lock they come with, it have been touble free.

[elk hunter]

If there is a muzzle loading group in your area get in touch with them and ask if there is someone who will show you the basics of feeding and caring for a flintlock. Most groups will have a few guys shooting flintlocks. Perhaps go to one of their shoots. I'm sure someone will invite you to try a few shots with their rifle. Then you will get firsthand information on a bunch of different rifles be they flint or percussion so you will be able to evaluate the quality of the different makers. Beware as you may fall in love with a rifle that someone built where the parts cost more than your projected budget.

Just my $0.02 worth.

[Old Footman]

Looking to purchase my first flintlock. From my reading I can see that I don’t wanna go with a cheap one unfortunately. I really hate to spend over 1K on a flintlock just to see if I enjoy it.

Any recommendations on a budget flintlock that’s not junk?

Glockky,

I have been shooting flintlocks for a "long time" to include many hunts with them. I understand you concern on having a budget flintlock that's not junk. A bit of an issue is that I've seen my fair share of issues with over the counter production flintlocks. I have convinced many of my friends who now shoot a flintlock to buy "quality". Since you are down in Kentucky I know that you have some great flintlock builders and shooters in your state. Maybe you can get together with a local club, etc and see if they will let you come out to one of their shoots. Most flintlock shooters don't mind this, since they like to help. If you have a skill set the Jim Kibler kits are impressive. Even though they are over $1K, they are probably the best kits on the market. I built one of his Colonial rifles and just recently he will be coming out with his new Woodsrunner rifle kit.

https://kiblerslongrifles.com/collections/rifle-kits

YMO&HS

Old Footman

[Old Footman]

304834
304835
304836
304837
304838
304839
304840
304841
304842

Glockky,

Here is the Kibler Colonial .58 flintlock that I put together. The last two photos are after I finally finished oiling the stock with multiple coats of linseed oil.

Old Footman

[glockky]

The OP is trying to avoid spending $1K on his first flintlock and I certainly understand that.

Yeah I really like the nice Kiblers and pedersoli’s. Just hate to spend a grand to find out if I like it. I currently have a few cap locks that I enjoy shooting. Most are Thompson Center’s

[glockky]

304834
304835
304836
304837
304838
304839
304840
304841
304842

Glockky,

Here is the Kibler Colonial .58 flintlock that I put together. The last two photos are after I finally finished oiling the stock with multiple coats of linseed oil.

Old Footman

That’s a beautiful rifle. I’ve watched a lot of videos on assembling the Kibler’s

[Jeff Michel]

Perhaps another thing to consider...... An inexpensive flintlock may not perform consistently. Nothing in the world is a bigger turn off than an appliance will not do the job for which it was purchased.

[Jackrabbit1957]

Amen brother!, buy what you can afford but don't go cheap.... as in Traditions. I had 2 Traditions flinters come across my bench a while back, both with locks that wouldn't spark, they would shatter flints beautifully. I tried a number of things to get them working, did get one to work but the other was a loss. The lock issue was just part of the cheesy feeling from these guns.

[Sixgun Symphony]

You need a quality hand fitted flintlock to get reliable, fast ignition.

Factory locks are never going to be close in performance to a hand fitted, hand polished lock. You will likely be discouraged from flintlock ignition system with a factory lock.

Look up L&R locks, they make some that will drop into the T/C Arms Company Hawken rifle stocks. Also consider getting a suitable barrel from Rice Muzzle Loading Barrel Company that will drop into the T/C Hawken stock.

https://lr-rpl.com/
https://www.ricebarrels.com/

Check the pawnshops for used T/C Hawken rifles, they usually don't clean nor lubricate the rifle barrels and there can be alot of corrosion, show that ruined bore to the shop manager and give them a low bid for the stock.

[Firelock66]

If you want to find out wether or not you'll enjoy it, I would recomend a Pedersoli. A really cheap flintlock is not going to be enjoyable for anyone.

[waksupi]

If you want to find out wether or not you'll enjoy it, I would recomend a Pedersoli. A really cheap flintlock is not going to be enjoyable for anyone.

Very true, considering a quality flint lock alone costs more than the price of the low end kits.

[Jackrabbit1957]

Prices on things have gone considerably but a good lock should only be around 200.00 to 250.00. Even the Rifle Shoppe parts sets are not all that expensive. Re Davis and L& R locks are averaging around 200.00. Check out Track of the Wolf on their selections. I personally would stay away from Traditions as they are very low end.

[glockky]

Prices on things have gone considerably but a good lock should only be around 200.00 to 250.00. Even the Rifle Shoppe parts sets are not all that expensive. Re Davis and L& R locks are averaging around 200.00. Check out Track of the Wolf on their selections. I personally would stay away from Traditions as they are very low end.

So can you pretty much piece a rifle together from track of the wolf?

[LAGS]

Piecing together a rifle will be more expensive that just buying a reasonable priced Kit.
And things like stocks will take more work to get working than most Kit stocks.
The barrels on TOW also will take a little gunsmithing.
I very rarely find used Flinters at pawn shops.
But If I do , they usually are not in the greatest shape.
But for me , that isn't an issue , since I do the rebuilding myself.
And for those , I do get parts that I can't fix from TOW like locks.
If the barrels are bad , they go to Hoyt.
When finished and in Great Condition , the build is usually cheaper than buying a brand new finished rifle and sometimes a similar kit.

[indian joe]

My first flinter was a CVA Pennsylvania rifle bought as a percussion and I converted to flint - used a CVA (Dikar) lock - by that time I had learnt enough to pull the nipple drum out and fit a proper coned touch hole liner. I shot well with that gun and like a fool traded it off thinking I would get something better - yup gave away the best barrel I ever had my hands on. The lock was reliable and drew a lot of comments as how well it went off (fast ignition) - only problem was it ate flints - 15 shots without a miss most times but then tinkering with it might get 25 before a change. I built a flintlock for a friend using cheap parts and inherited it back when he passed so am still shooting a Dikar lock - still eating flints - I like this gun too as I built it for a mate and cut the stock to fit me - its a little cheap Belgian 48 twist barrel in 45 cal quite accurate inside 75 yards and I've managed to put a bit of bling on the mantelpiece with it . Need to get off my backside and harden the frizzen (flints are six bucks a piece now).
I reckon shooting a flintlock is something to kind of grow into - for sure they will kick your butt if there is any hint of a flinch or poor trigger control

[Jackrabbit1957]

The TOW parts sets are relatively easy to build, some more so than others. They can be a challenge in areas like the butt plate when they are curved. One needs to choose wisely and not dive off into something that's way over one's head, like a Hawken rifle for example. Going with a trade gun may be one option. If your gonna go the build it yourself route I highly recommend " The Gunsmith of Grenville County" for a lot of excellent information on building a rifle. It may be spendy but it's well worth the cost.

[warren5421]

About the easiest kit to build is a Kibler https://kiblerslongrifles.com

Almost no work to get it fitted but finishing is a lot more work.

Try: https://www.americanlongrifles.org/forum/ https://www.muzzleloadingforum.com https://www.longrifle.com/artisans-works/ https://bs-bp.forumotion.com


If you want to build from a blank look at going bald! You will pull your hair out trying to learn what is needed. Swamped barrel is best IMO. I prefer a Colerain Swamped, a Green Mountain Swamped or a Kibler/Green Mountain swamped barrel. Barrel must have square bottom rifling unless it is a Colerain. I prefer an appropriate Jim Chambers lock. No Roman Nose if you want a .50 or bigger as it hurts more as you age. I prefer more of a shotgun butt stock with little drop.